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Rick01

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Everything posted by Rick01

  1. Rick01
    You've done it exactly as I do - building up and down with a final plank (hopefully only needing a slight trim) somewhere in the middle. Looks good so far - no problems with the twist into the stern? Rick
  2. Rick01
    Try the spread sheet here - it should give you a general idea of sixes at least. http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-rigging-and-sails.php Rick
  3. Rick01
    I didn't expect you'd be throwing in the towel - just popped the comment in for any beginners in the hopes that they will not give up but push on past this point. Rick :-)
  4. Rick01
    You're right in taking your time and getting the first planking correct even if it won't be seen - you can't exactly experiment with the second planking when it's on show. I find that tapering starts one bulkhead past centre and should be a gentle taper on each plank with bevelling on the tapered (upper) edge only. The first couple of planks shouldn't need a taper as the prow and sides are pretty well vertical - as the hull starts to curve so the tapering is needed (hope that makes sense). I'm pretty sure this is the point where many beginners throw there hands in the air and the kit in the bin, but pushing past it is well worth the struggle. Rick
  5. Rick01
    Hands up anyone who has never had to make this sort of adjustment in a build! I find Mk I eyeball really comes into play all the way through planking, doesn't matter how carefully you measure something creeps in when your back is turned. Rick
  6. Rick01
    It's surprising what we define as a tool here - flexible emery boards and double sided sticky tape come to mind. Rick
  7. Rick01
    I also use the broad rubber bands plus lego bricks for additional pressure where needed - the bricks are also useful when something needs squaring but you have little space to place any tools. Rick
  8. Rick01
    Actually no - it's the one area I rather dislike and know that it has to be taken pretty slowly so I'm expecting you to be pretty quiet for a while once the first couple of planks have been fitted. Is the second planking going to be .6mm or a thicker variant - reason I ask is that the capping rail assumes that the bulwarks have been fitted with two layers of 1mm timber so bulking out the bulwarks would be needed if using .6 mm Rick Rick
  9. Rick01
    Looking good Can't see any problems arising in the next steps given the way you're setting it all up. Rick
  10. Rick01
    Don't know if this helps or hinders Frankie but this is a sKetch of a similar size/era cutter showing two sails running off the bowsprit - maybe pushing it out allowed for extra canvas to be flown. Rick
  11. Rick01
    So "no" :-( I'll try not to do that to you any more, but I just couldn't live with the thought of you mounting the bowsprit and then finding a problem. Any chance of getting a dispensation and maybe having a single oxen sacrificed at the finish? We could all come over for a barbecue then. Rick
  12. Rick01
    Just had a horrible thought - did you increase the height of the prow when you drilled it for the extra couple of holes? If not then another goat will be needed as the bowsprit sits fairly high along side it. If you didn't then you may want to drop the bowsprit and its supporting timbers a couple of mm. when you get that far. Rick
  13. Rick01
    Sounds good to me - I found the direction change at the stern less of a problem with properly soaked timber than ensuring I got a smooth line of planking at the prow. At this stage I also slowed down in build speed - two or three planks a side daily with deck furnishings being built between times to relieve the boredom. Rick
  14. Rick01
    Only one variation that I'd make. I'd make the first couple of planks under the gunwales full (non-tapered) planks visually you then seem to loose the appearance of an up-swept planking line especially if you then taper the rest only slightly rather than have a few with slightly greater tapers. Hope that makes sense! Being the first layer it does give you room to experiment. Rick
  15. Rick01
    "BTW Rick what is up with these uneven and different on each side curves on the tops of the bulkhead strips?" You may want to buy a small herd of goats before you've finished. The upper edge of the gunwale should run parallel to the deck - so in this case there should be a smooth curve for the full length of it. Looks to me as if the laser cutter had some sort of hiccup or maybe just a bit of a wobble, the gun ports either side of the dip actually look distorted slightly as well. Shouldn't be as much of a problem as your redo of those elbows however, When it gets planked just ensure you get a nice line with the top plank ignoring the wobble, the capping rail will conceal the dip nicely. Next time you start to get that feeling of burning one of the more recalcitrant bits go ahead, just remember to make a good copy first!! I've got half a ships worth of junked items where it was a better idea to junk it rather than continue the fight but I've always either got a good copy or been able to reconstruct the bit from the outline from the blank that it was lasered from. You're going to have a brilliant model when finished , plus this build will be pretty well the definitive manual for beginners building "Lady Nelson". Rick
  16. Rick01
    Hey Vossie at least you didn't have your decking laid before you had the "do over" - it's sheer hell when you have a nice clean deck with a spot of paint on it (speaking from experience). Rick
  17. Rick01
    So you're about to start on what I find as the scary, boring, frustrating bit of ship building. Only one bit of advice here, if you haven't already, then you should read some of the articles here http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.phpand consider using a PVA glue - i found it much easier to remove bits that don't work properly (like half a side of second planking that I hated) than with CA. Rick :-)
  18. Rick01
    I finished the prep work after fixing the bulwarks because of the stability problem myself, even then I broke one of the inner elbows off the deck once. The fascia should be flat in the vertical plane with a reasonable curve horizontally. I do recall that it took a bit of time/work shaping the elbows to get a proper fit - I also made three ( I think) fascias before I got the fit right. These niggles are sent to try us! Rick
  19. Rick01
    I was actually in two minds about posting as I know you like to work these things out yourself. However you had already mentioned ironing out ripples so I went ahead with my own experience in this area. Rick
  20. Rick01
    Looking good Vossie - I knocked the bulkhead extensions off at this stage then planked the inner side of the gunwales which smoothed out some minor ripples at the forward gun ports. Obviously all the planking was curved to shape first and gun ports were planked over then re-opened once planking was dry. Rick
  21. Rick01
    I did have problems with a slight bowing at the gun ports however once I'd started to plank this area the planking did pull it all back into line. Rick
  22. Rick01
    "I'm good with this, although I look forward to doing a ship where the keel is correctly left off until after planking as cutting those rabbets will be trivial in comparison to this little bit of micro-surgery." I've seen a couple of builds where instructions recommend fitting keel before planking - the builder has ignored this, cut the rabbet, planked first and second layer then cut a groove to take the full keel. Worked very well as long as they had a very steady hand for the last operation. Rick
  23. Rick01
    Just before you do you'll need to decide if you're going to paint the bulwarks and facia or leave plain timber. If the latter then it would be easier to put a veneer planking on the inner face of the facia before fitting. Rick
  24. Rick01
    That's the same way I handled it. Bulwarks first soaking them at the prow to ensure that they bend without breaking at the first cannon port (mine did anyway :-( ). They will almost certainly need trimming at the stern to match the angle of the elbows, then as you say fit the stern fascia. This will only need the final planking in due course. Rick
  25. Rick01
    Doesn't matter how well I check my work I always seem to find one little thing that got missed/misaligned! At least it wasn't at a point where nothing could be done. Rick

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