Rick01
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For lack of any other reply I should add that I used a three plank pattern with the planks being 120mm long which visually seemed OK. Rick
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If you search "Mermaid" you'l find a couple of builds plus a few queries that I've made regarding accuracy (or not) of the plans supplied. Before you fit the bulwarks be very careful as two of us have had a problem here which I later solved - "there is a 2mm difference in height one end to the other for the bulwarks and although the fit appears better with the high end to the bows it should in fact have the lower end to the bows thus allowing the extra room in the bow keel for the required drill holes. The instructions just say "identify and fit" no mention of the 2mm difference - I did point this out to the manufacturer and was told that they'd fix this in their next review." Rick
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Tadeusz, thanks for your answer re shrouds and the reference book "Historic Ship Models" by Wolfram zu Mondfeld. This will help me immensely. Rick
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Is there a rule/formula to give the number of shrouds required for any given mast? I'm looking at illustrations of HM Lady Nelson and a contemporaneous model on NMM clearly shows five including a possible backstay whilst an engraving at about the same period seems to indicate seven with possible backstays included. Rick
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Thanks again Brian - if/when I start I'll give you a heads-up. Rick
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- Lady Nelson
- Victory Models
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Lady Nelson
Rick01 replied to Rick01's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
Hi John - yes I was aware how different she was having seen both the engraving and the contemporary hull model in the NMM. I'm off to Float-a-Boat next week so I'll have a look at their plans then. I'll just have to assume that the cannons referred to were the equivalent of 3 lb'ers. Interestingly the NMM model has a railing fore and aft rather than the full bulwarks shown on the engraving - wonder which was correct as the model is of her as fitted for the Aus. voyage. Rick -
I'm about to start an attempt to lightly bash the Amati "Lady Nelson" into the Australian "Lady Nelson". NMM have a good contemporary model of the hull http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66562.htmland I have copies of the plans used to build one of the replicas. I'm starting to research the fittings and need a little help with the cannons - her log book states that she was fitted with "2 brass carriage guns" with a further 4 added before she sailed for Aus. No mention of size however - I'm guessing that as she was an exploration vessel they would have been 3~4 lb cannon. Can anyone comment here giving me an idea of the relevant dimensions of them and how they would have been mounted as the model shows a low railing rather than a heavier bulwark to which they could have been braced. Thanks in advance Rick
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One last question - was the "depth" measured including gunwales? If so can you give me the depth of the gunwales please. The other measurements are actually near as damn it correct for the Australian Lady Nelson if modelled at 1/54 so bashing may not be that hard given how close the hull appears. Rick
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Thanks Brian - it looks as if the model is actually slightly larger that the Australian ship which at 1/64 would measure 26 cm length and 8.45 cm beam. This is an idea that I'm working on slowly but I don't think it's insurmountable. Rick
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- Lady Nelson
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Hi Brian - I'm contemplating building the Australian "Lady Nelson" which is a two masted brig (cutter conversion per NMM). To see if this kit is readily usable as a base I wonder if you could give me the actual dimensions of the kit hull i.e. length, beam and depth. I've the figures for the original and just need to see how much work is needed to fiddle with the hull. Thanks in advance. Rick
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HM Mermaid jackyard set flying with the gaff topsail
Rick01 replied to Rick01's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Looking at the sketch again and in particular the slack line you have noted, is this a possibility? The line is fixed at the gaff peak and runs up and through a block on the yard then down to the deck, when she changes tack the line is then hauled in causing the peak of the yard to drop sufficiently to swing the whole assembly round the mast before being loosened again. This would then explain why it appears without tension in the sketch. Rick -
HM Mermaid jackyard set flying with the gaff topsail
Rick01 replied to Rick01's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
It's even more confusing for an absolute amateur! The "artist" was actually the captain who sailed this cutter around Australia for about 4 years and would have known his ship pretty well one would expect. However as I am rigging the model without sails my main concern is with the lifting rigging. Both the illustration I have provided and another sketch of her actually under sail seem to indicate that the lower corner of the sail is actually attached (via a loop possibly) to the peak of the gaff. If so then no block on the gaff, as King seems accurate with his rigging/blocks etc. in other respects I had assumed that the sail was attatched to and hoist with the gaff. The Mermaid was only a small cutter 17 metres stem to stern, beam 5.6 metres and weighing in at 84 ton. Rick -
I understand that the jackyard would not appear unless the topsail was being set, however I assume that at least some running rigging would be attached to the topmast at all times, specifically a halyard running through a block at the top of the mast. My question is - when not in use how is this halyard secured? Is it hooked to an eye bolt on the upper mast cap or run down to the deck and secured similarly there (this would entail a hell of a lot of excess rope 2 x total masts height). Sorry if I'm not using correct terminology but I'm still learning. http://www.acmssearch.sl.nsw.gov.au/search/itemLargeCopyright.cgi?itemID=921633&size=full&album=1&collection=823393&parent=442570 Rick
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Having just finished a build of this model I can add a comment for others - page 13 of this build mentions that there is a problem with bulwarks/ bow " I have added my cap rails and extensions.. I am a bit dissapointed my keel at bow seems to have fallen a bit short of where it should be.. Stern could be a bit higher above rails also. I dont know how that happened,". I had exactly the same problem and brought it up with the manufacturer, basically was told it was my fault even though I'd followed the instruction sheet as well as possible. So I went back to basics and rechecked all my work and still couldn't see where I'd gone wrong. Final ting was to check measurements - low and behold - there is a 2mm difference in height one end to the other for the bulwarks and although the fit appears better with the high end to the bows it should in fact have the lower end to the bows thus allowing the extra room in the bow keel for the required drill holes. The instructions just say "identify and fit" no mention of the 2mm difference - I did point this out to the manufacturer and was told that they'd fix this in their next review. Rick
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Regretfully, if the Brig Mermaid is any guide then the ship's boats will be plastic and the keel stem and stern posts ply needing to be "planked". Rick
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Love to Brian but I'm afraid my night driving days (bad joke here) are over at the moment. Come daylight saving I'll have to look at a visit as I'm pretty sure I'll still have questions at that point. Rick
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Thanks for the illustration Brian - with that and a number of other pictures I've found I've been able to work out ratios of side to width to height. However I haven't been able to find any measurements for a full size one that I can scale down. I realize that they'll vary but I'm guessing that the cabinet would stand between 900 and 1200 mm high. Can anyone confirm this for me. I can scale it down to 1/48th easily from there. Thanks Rick
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Thanks guys - I should have had a little more faith in my own instincts. I had thought of a binnacle cabinet but wondered as she was such a small ship. I'll start a search here for examples and should be able to dummy something up without too much trouble. Rick
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Can anyone help with identifying the item on deck just forward of the tiller please. The cutter was an 84 ton cutter built of teak in Calcutta, commissioned in 1817 and used to explore and survey the Australian coast. The kit makes no mention of this and I haven't been able to identify it with my (very) limited knowledge. Thanks in advance. As a matter of interest the bilge pumps don't appear in this sketch and the throat halliard and topping lift both seem to be running through blocks attached to or below the lower mast cap. This appears contrary to Lennarth Petersson's book and the kit instructions. Rick
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HM Mermaid Rigging questions (edited by admin)
Rick01 replied to Rick01's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Now starting to rig the mast and spar and further questions have come up. Footrope stirrups - no length has been given for these - I'd guess that they should be scale equivalent of around 850 mm to allow feet on the rope and waist on the spar. Can anyone confirm/comment. Additionally as I'm using King's sketches which clearly show no topsail yard how/where do I attach cluelines and sheets? Rick -
Here's a sketch by King - clearly shows the spreader bracing the top mast. I've ordered a copy of the book and expect to have to make some sort of allowance for the size difference - length 56ft beam 18ft 6 in. but I will at least get a better idea of the way the rigging works as some is not that clear on contemporary sketches. Thanks again. Rick
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Thanks guys - the sketch makes sense and of course means more work for me! The supplied mast cap doesn't have enough depth to allow for a channel so it's off to the workshop and machine another one. I would think that the ringbolt would allow the spreader to be lowered easily for repairs, replacement etc. and the other square marks should be some sort of locator pegs. Off to buy a copy of Ienneth's book now before I get any more confused. Rick
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I'm now at the point of assembling the masts, spars and booms but notice that King's illustration has a number of differences in rigging to that supplied with the instructions. Most obvious being 2 blocks between the mast caps (per King) and 4 per instructions. I can work out the basic run of the rigging fairly well from King's sketches however I'm wondering if there is a fairly straight forward book out there somewhere which will help me understand what's going on. I'm guessing that whilst the rig is basically the same on cutters there will be some variance in mounting and number of blocks used dependant on the size of the cutter. One other query - how is a topmast spreader attached to the mast cap? Again instructions are not to clear " identify ... fit and fix ... across the top of the lower mast cap" doesn't tell me a lot. Thanks Rick
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Thanks John - what I expected but needed confirmation. Rick
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Can anyone please help regards to mounting the bowsprit. The instructions indicate that the inboard end of the bowsprit sits on top of the pinrail between the knight heads, however there is no indication as to how it is secured at this point. I understand that there would be an eyeglass (?) fitting holding it at the stem post but are there additional lashings/bolts securing it at the point of the knight heads? Thanks Rick
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