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Rick01

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Everything posted by Rick01

  1. Rick01
    Yes she's only a 50ft brig - I had thought about a straight pull and was only contemplating a lead block to provide better leverage. I've searched for brigs of similar size and era but not been able to find one with a really clear indication of its running rigging. Having said that those I have seen would appear to end on the mast at cleats. I'll do a few more searches and see how I go. Thanks again for your help - it's really appreciated. Rick
  2. Rick01
    Put in a complete stern filler - I've worked on this model and it makes planking that area so much easier if you've got a solid surface in that area. Rick
  3. Rick01
    Thanks very much for that - as a rank amateur most of this is still a mystery to me! One last question then - would halyards and sheets then be run through blocks hooked to ring bolts at the foot of the mast then back up to cleats fixed on the mast, thus saving valuable deck space otherwise taken up by fife rails? Rick
  4. Rick01
    I'm starting rigging my interpretation of HM Brig Lady Nelson http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66562.html andas there are no gunwales it leaves me with a problem re belaying pin locations. The ship is a 1799 built 60 ton brig, thus quite small. I've searched on line for a definitive answer but so far nothing, I have however seen three variations and wonder which would be more correct. 1/ A free standing fife rail as per this photo of one I've mocked up. 2/ Cleats lashed to the shrouds. 3/ Cluelines etc. tied directly to a lanyard strip. Any assistance would be greatfully received. Rick
  5. Rick01
    How about a series devoted to Australian exploratory ships. HM Brig Lady Nelson, top sail schooner Enterprize, HM Cutter Mermaid (slightly more accurate version) all come to mind. Scale at 1:48 Price range $200.00 ~ $350.00 With the number of Aussies on this forum alone I'm sure there's a market for models celebrating our history in addition to those "First Fleet" vessels already available. Rick
  6. Rick01
    But the old system certainly made your mental arithmetic better - coal is £3, 7s , 6p per hundredweight what is the price of 4 and three quarter tons . Ahhh the good old age of 11+ exams !! 20 cwt = 1 ton 12 pence = 1 shilling 20 shillings = 1 pound. so [(20 x 4) + 15] x 3 pound 7s 6d = ? Quite simple really. Rick
  7. Rick01
    No 3 scalpel handle plus at least 25 number 11 blades, lots of rubber bands, mini clamps, assorted grades of sandpaper, mini vice/drill with drill bits from .25mm up to 1.00mm, water based wood glue (don't know what's available in SA), Helping hand http://www.ebay.com/itm/Helping-3Th-Hand-Soldering-Stand-Magnifier-Glass-Clamps-Modelling-Stand-US-stock-/141503727975, tweezers nicked form someone's makeup kit, likewise a nail buffer ( double sided sticky tape will fix fine sandpaper to it for sanding curves.) The ability to improvise tools from bent bits of wire also helps. Don't go mad buying stuff until you find you really need it - you can end up with expensive tools that you only use once that way!! Rick
  8. Rick01
    Have you done a trial fit on the stand? My model just wobbled around so I ended up making a cradle stand instead. Rick
  9. Rick01
    http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3568740/Captain-Cook-s-HMS-Endeavour-United-States.html Rick
  10. Rick01
    Nice oars - I dumped the metal thole pins in favour of double pins in line with Chuck's 18th century longboat build. Rick
  11. Rick01
    In the plans no mention is made of planking the bulkheads fore and aft. I don't think I mentioned this in my build but it's just a little detail that is worth adding before the seating is installed and the interior is finished. Rick
  12. Rick01
    Should have a nice brass butterfly or slotted screw - I'm pretty sure the steel item isn't original. Rick
  13. Rick01
    I actually re-rigged it recently following more closely Chuck's longboat in the area of the stays for each mast using dead eyes instead of tying the stays directly to eye bolts as the instructions show. Rick
  14. Rick01
    This may help a little http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8158-hms-endeavours-longboat-rick01-al-160/. It's my first build and I agree the rigging instructions aren't very helpful but a bit of research will clarify things a bit. The builds here should also help with rigging http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/51-msw-group-build-of-an-18th-century-longboat/. Rick
  15. Rick01
    It scribes parallel lines but is missing a block. There's a couple of pictures here https://www.etsy.com/listing/64392965/antique-brass-wood-carpenter-scribe-tool. Set the two pins for the distance apart for the lines then set the block for distance from the edge of the wood. Especially useful for mortice and tenon joints. Rick
  16. Rick01
    Tried them and they follow the painting and Tassie replica. Both of these seem to be based on an engraving published in England in 1803 purporting to show her in the Thames. Problem is that she was here in Aus. at that time - interesting point with the engraving is that it appears to have her showing scrambling netting set and personally I can't think of anyone liable to want to board her there! See Wikipedia illustration https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/ab/His_Majesty%27s_vessel_the_Lady_Nelson_-_1799.JPG Rick
  17. Rick01
    I'm at the stage of mast assembly and rigging and need some advice on pin rails. As you will see there are no gunwales and so no points to attach rails securely ( the rail running round the hull is only approx 25~30 cm high in full scale. Rigged as a brig there wouldn't be much room for all the cleats needed on the masts themselves. Any assistance/comments/links to help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Rick
  18. Rick01
    Maybe look at a No. 3 scalpel handle with No. 11 blades plus a good supply of rubber bands. Rick
  19. Rick01
    Thanks guys - Mark after a little thought and more examination of the original model (via the photos) your idea has more merit than my first thought. Fixing through the beams would cause the gun to buck on recoil as the pressures would not be in a straight line through the centre of the gun carriage (if that makes sense). Pat - I've studied various photos of the replica and see that the companionway has no glass which does make sense - however as there are a number of other features which do not follow the original model and the plans available from Float-a-boat in Melb were based on discussions with the Tassie people (again no glass - but companionway and skylight as a single unit) I thought I'd try for a third (or more) opinion. It was the paint job replicating glass that has thrown me. However no glass makes more sense than glass so I think I'll go that way. Rick
  20. Rick01
    Anyone? Not even a guess? Rick
  21. Rick01
    I'm slowly attempting to bash a kit into the Lady Nelson using the Royal Museums Greenwich as my base model. http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66562.htmlI've arrived at a point where I need to clarify a couple of items - firstly whilst the skylight is obviously glassed in the companionway side is solid but appears to be painted as if to resemble glass. Do I glaze or not? Second item - she carried 6 guns and on the way out from England these were described as 3~4 lb brass carriage guns - this info. from various log entries (not carronades as may have been swapped in later). Given that there are no gunwales would they have been secured with ringbolts through the deck (answer seems yes but I'm just checking :-) ). For locals seeing this post - I've seen and have copies of the Float-a-boat plans, these however do deviate from the original model layout and the various paintings/engravings out there all seem to be copies of the original of her in the Thames. This however is problematical as it was published in 1803 when she had already been in in Aus for some time. Rick
  22. Rick01
    OK now I understand it better, I read Allan's post before having my morning coffee!!! The Lady Nelson plan also helps and that together with a search of the forum for pictures of these on other brigs of the same period have pretty well solved my problem. Thanks guys Rick
  23. Rick01
    Sorry Allan - badly worded request on my part. :-( I was actually asking about the crows nest/cross trees themselves. Masts are sorted and the brig was built in the UK in 1799 and then sailed to Aus in 1800. Rick
  24. Rick01
    I'm slowly bashing a cutter into the Australian Brig "Lady Nelson" and am currently working on the masts. Is there a formula (or set of dimensions) that set the size of of these. Side views obviously only give me the length but no clues as to widths. Rick
  25. Rick01
    Here's my finished product http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/gallery/member/15284-rick01/ -a little different to the kit but not hard to achieve. Main differences being rigging and position of deck furnishings. Yell if you want to talk about any of it. I'm only a first time builder but happy to help if I can. Rick

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