Rick01

At this stage I'm still struggling with my first ever build (planking even with the practicums here is a little bit of a challenge) so a build of Enterprize would lay in the future. However to kit bash I guess I'd need to get hold of a set of plans for Enterprize as a start then look for a kit with similar hull dimensions. I have no problems with scaling up/down but with no working knowledge of ships I really am not sure where I'd start as far as research is concerned. Rick

Just as a matter of interest I've noticed that although there are a number of models available depicting ships involved in our development one little guy is missing - the topsail schooner Enterprize. A small ship I know but not without importance to some of us. Is anyone aware of this having been built as a model, either scratch or bashed from another topsail schooner? Way above my skill levels at the moment but something I'd like to consider at a later date. Rick

A note for anyone building this - the flag they provide is the post 1801 variant and would never have been flown on this boat.

I will say that other than the deck alignment the rest of the kit went together well. However the rigging plans should probably be forgotten completely Rick

Thanks for the assist - my knowledge of 18th century boats is practically nil but even after a single read through the instructions I felt that some items just weren't correct. I've already ignored their planking "instructions" and started work based on the "Beginners guide" here. I'l also go through the 18th century longboat build and use that as a base for the model. Pity they can't get it correct, it's my first attempt at wooden ship modelling and it would be nice to have had a little more confidence in the kit. Rick

I'm starting building this and before I get too far have a couple of queries. Firstly - mast taper. All the instructions say is to "sand down to give them a conical shape at one end" . This end has a 2 mm shaped dowel attached to it. So do I just effectively taper the last centimetre, gently taper from the foot of the mast or start the taper at some other point. The finished boat illustration seems to taper from about 2/3rds upwards. Does this als apply to the bowsprit? I assume the booms don't taper at all. Second point is the rowlocks - these appear as a single pin when constructed, this to me is mechanically unsound as it would not secure the oar when in use. This photo clearly shows what they feel is correct. Any comments, hints, advice gratefully received. Rick

Initial planking now finished and (2 part) keel attached. A few mistakes along the way but nothing sandpaper and wood filler haven't fixed. Why did AL have to make the keel in two parts - a single straight run would have been nicer as the join half way along the bottom is going to bug me!

Popeye a word of warning - the moulds for this kit are 40 + years old and with mine the decks did not line up causing a lot of trouble when installing masts and later the shrouds. They actually sat 2~3mm forward of where they should have been!!! Rick

Looks as if no one else is game to comment here. This is a personal preference and nothing against the work you've put in but I prefer not to display sails as I feel that getting them to look/hang correctly just doesn't work as scaling down canvas seems to be a major problem (it also cuts back on the amount of rigging required!) You may like to check this book out for hints on rigging http://books.google.com.au/books?id=IAKSAwAAQBAJ&pg=PP6&lpg=PP6&dq=spritsail+%26+spritsail+topsail+braces&source=bl&ots=A25dB9igIc&sig=ITx35oaC6ePaAkhostEMQ7gQXAw&hl=en&sa=X&ei=QZvyU4_gJMeIuATFyoLQBg&ved=0CEQQ6AEwCA#v=onepage&q=spritsail%20%26%20spritsail%20topsail%20braces&f=false I used it a fair amount when converting Jolly Roger to a french frigate. Rick

As per the instruction sheet I've started fitting the first planking. Garboard and top plank fitted without too much trouble but I then thought that maybe I'd missed an instruction to fit the false keel and bow, but no, according the the book these are fitted "after" final planking (or that's how I read it)! This really didn't make sense so I trial fitted both keel and bow to discover that for the keel to meet the false bow I needed a 1mm shim under it. No problem here however as I keep all the off-cuts from anything I'm making and was able to split one of the bits of ply that the original frame was in. It also needed more packing in the bow and stern to have any hope of getting the flow of the planking somewhere near correct. Note - don't follow the (very limited) instruction re planking with the kit as it has planks ending in points and flowing anywhere but to the bow and stern!! 1st try at planking Bow with additional filling and false bow in place. Stern area with 1mm shim added between garboards to bring keel up to the correct height. Obviously I'll need a bit of filling and sanding in due course. Any recommendations as to a particular wood filler to use?

I can't find another of these in the build area so I'm guessing any previous builds disappeared in the site crash, so here goes. Absolutely my first wooden ship build but I've had some experience with plastic kits and although it looks daunting when opening the box I'm prepared to work slowly though it all. Instructions are not bad but do leave something to be desired and dry fitting everything is a must. First question - staining/varnishing/sealing the wood. It appears to me that this would be easier with the interior ribs etc if done as you assemble the kit rather than wait 'til it's finished. Either way what is recommended (available in Aus) if I choose not to paint but leave as a timber finish. Ribs attached to keel - good fit all round. Main deck dropped in place to check alignment of ribs. Decking glued down - note it needed a light sanding at the ends as the fit was just a little tight. Side rail dry fitted to check alignment again. The rail was slightly out of true itself as can be seen where it doesn't quite meet up with the 2nd rib. Both side rails attached and alignment sorted with glue and pegs. I did have an accident at this point whilst cleaning one of the rails and snapped it at a rib cut out. This should be OK as it's been glued and once the boards are attached should ensure it stays properly in place. Next step is shaping bows and stern area. AL suggest doing this with a file and show a nice bastard rasp in use. I'm guessing that if I use one I'm liable to rip things to bit given how they bite into the wood. However I'd think that judicious of a sharp knife plus very careful use of a Dremel will do the job. Bit of a let-down here as AL don't show the finished/shaped sections so it's up to you to look at it and imagine how the shapes should flow. Look forward to comments and advice and by the way who ever suggested lego bricks as a tool deserves a medal!

Thanks Brian - will do. Rick

Big thanks to everyone for the advice especially the link to Hobby Tools. I'll be off there shortly. Rick

Thanks - I've worked with a couple of these so that does help. One other question I forgot in my original query. Exacto blades - I'm familiar with these from plastic modelling but I'm wondering what type/shape would be most commonly used in this area. Rick

OK I've worked my way through a number of posts concerning types and use of various glues and decided it's nearly as controversial as substrate for Central Bearded Dragons. So can a few Aussies please enlighten me as to the type and brand names of the adhesives they use for construction. It'll give me a chance to check my workshop, get some and experiment before I start a build. Thanks to all in advance Rick

I've just finished this kit and although I had no trouble with the fit of the masts I've had major problems with the alignment of the lower ratlines as the boards sit too far back for the ratlines to align properly with the holes in the tops. I actually sprung them all into place after fitting all the masts but before fitting any spars. I also found that the gun deck would not align properly and thus all the cannon sit off centre.