Canute

That's terrible. Not protected at all. I assume you will return it.

Interesting shot. That's some kind of "reacher" car to pull cars from the ferry without getting the engine onto the ferry. Next car is a baggage mail combine. Then two or three coaches, maybe unairconditioned, since there are no extensions off the clerestory roof. next to last car could be a food service car aka diner. Last car is first class, since it does show airconditioning ducts. And the shot is probably mid 30s or later, since that was when Pullman first installed airconditioning systems into passenger cars. I'm another model railroader who wanders into other aspects of modeling.

That's terrible. Not protected at all. I assume you will return it.

That's terrible. Not protected at all. I assume you will return it.

I placed some central bulckheads on the center deck to enture a perfect positioning of the wooden deck, removed the plastic backing and gently and evenly worked it down over the bulckheads with a pair of tweezers until it touched the styrene deck. Then I rubbed it down with a piece of wood.

 
For the fore and aft sections I put some cocktailsticks on the deck to allow perfect positioning before tacking down.
 
Untill next update, enjoy modelling.

Waiting to see  what  they  will  do about it.
 
OC.

I have  contacted them  through  Ebay   waiting on a  reply.
 
OC.

That's terrible. Not protected at all. I assume you will return it.

Afternoon all,   my  styrene  base has   turned up  from China  - I will  let the  photos  speak for them selves  -  to say I am  not amused   is  putting it  mildly   - 
 
OC.

Thank you all for you help. This is very good information.
From where I sit, the future is not very bright for the Byrnes saw. Eventually, the community will benefit if some knowledgeable (and this certainly leaves me out) person or group compiles and posts a list of the sizes of all the available replacement screws, belts and other parts, and where they can be purchased. I would not be surprised if I am one of the few people asking these sorts of questions now, but I suspect there will be more in the future. 

When I ordered from Malco in the past, they required a $100 minimum order.  I like their blades.  $100 buys several..

Call or email Donna to see what she has left in inventory. 

Me too.

Working from a fixed inventory, I am not surprised that Donna may have depleted Model Machines inventory.  You may wish to try email and see what is left that you want by contacting Donna. 
 
 
Malco  seems to offer single blade purchase on these pages:
 
https://www.malcosaw.com/product-category/high-speed-steel-saws/jeweler-s-slotting-saws/?4860_attr_pa_diameter[0]=167&4860_attr_pa_diameter[1]=139&4860_attr_pa_hole[0]=144&4860_filtered=true&4860_paged=2
 
https://www.malcosaw.com/product-category/high-speed-steel-saws/plain-metal-slitting-saws/?4860_attr_pa_diameter[0]=167&4860_attr_pa_diameter[1]=169&4860_attr_pa_diameter[2]=139&4860_filtered=true
 
https://www.malcosaw.com/product-category/high-speed-steel-saws/cutting-saws/?4860_attr_pa_diameter[0]=167&4860_attr_pa_diameter[1]=139&4860_attr_pa_hole[0]=144&4860_filtered=true
 
Martindale may be a possibility -they seem to want to talk first-   but you will need a 1" to 1/2" arbor adapter bushing.  Even way back when it was Jarmac and Dremel as 4" table saw and ordering was snail mail and checks - their blades were 1" arbor.
 
https://martindaleco.com/?s=&stype=p&wccaf_od=4.0000&wccaf_id=1.0000&wccaf_thickness=&wccaf_teeth=&wccaf_hub=No&wccaf_material[]=HSS&wccaf_material_data=HSS
 
I did a Google search and found Temu.com   and found low cost - no bets on the quality - 4"  but their arbors are 20mm  - I got that adapter bushing for the Diablo so I can do a trial - the prices are low enough to be worth the gamble.  $16.00 for four different blades to sample.
 
The HSS blades with lots of teeth, thin kerf, have small gullets and no set to the teeth.  Not a good tool for resawing stock of significant thickness. The carbides have "ouch" kerf thickness.

As an FYI, I previously did what Jaager suggests. Everything was fine until I attempted to pay (with PayPal). When I clicked "order" I received a "This page isn't working" error. I did this several times with the same result.

i think this is pickeling the metal since wine is acidic? using vinigar probably will have the same effect and that allows you to drink the wine and when that wears off in 20 hours everything will have darkened.

I gather such parts are not (die-cast) zinc, but rather white-metal ... However, they shouldn't be black anyway, but painted in whatever the colour the ship would have been painted in, often white or green for instance.
 
Railway or figure modellers have a lot of experience with white-metal parts and there is a lot of information on the Web, how to work with such parts.

Thank you @Nirvana that I could help a little :). This is just beginning of my way to modeling and now I am collecting all parts and informations  for my project including 3D printing extra parts. Just need search for someone else who is very good in 3D reisen printing. All parts and tools will cost me trple more than model 😅.

Well I need to continue on with the process... We are working on Version II of the thrust collar.... This is a part I designed a few months ago using the only info I had at that time...
This is what it looked like and the pic it was derived from....
 


Yeah one single view, from one angle.... A little hard to get a correct shape... Since then a few more images have come into my possession which show what it looks like from the rear....

We have seen these images before but in these I've enlarged a section of each side and have started lining it out for measuring...
 
One of the things we look for is matching points in each pic, The truss rod slot in the collar is one of those points but even more important is the stud/nut positions..  We have three in one pic and two in the other but there is one that shows in both pics so they have to be in the same position on the part, the lower center stud... Now given the information in the top view we see that there is an upper and lower stud in the middle there is a upper and lower corner stud on the left and a single center stud on the right... Also that the studs are mounted to standoff tabs on the casing of the collar housing.... This is the start of the pattern we will make... All the tabs are the same relative size to one another, they all carry the same size stud and are secured by the same size nut.... Now the one stud we don't see in the end view pics is the upper middle one, we see it in the top view.....
 
This is where the artsy part comes in, none of the pics have the same frame of reference, all we can do is extract patterns and points from the images and make them fit the 3D model... This is the time of draw, adjust, draw some more, adjust some more until you get something that actually looks like the pics... It's hard to describe the process as nothing is concrete...
 
Basically your trying to make a 3D model that looks like what your seeing in the pics....
 
So at this point I'll be figuring out how to model this part I will first try to adjust the previous one and failing that design a new one...
 
Anyway this is the process I go thru for every part I make in SW...
 
Now back to designing the part...
 
Onwards..
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thank you for your feedback, Tomek.
 
I hope to see the build logs or finished pictures on the Polish card board community sites. They'll be a good reference for building the next card board model kit.
 
Thank you again for watching my project, and see you again when I send a new order.

Hi,
 
Thank you for many comments, both regarding the model and general ideas for better publishing of subsequent models.
I wouldn't want to go into too much detail about every single detail you wrote about. So roughly the most important shortcomings.
1. In fact, the numbers of several parts have been mixed up and it looks like some are duplicated and others are missing. There are no planks missing, because several modelers in Poland have already built this model and they only just noticed the numbering confusion. Either way, this is my oversight. Below is a translation from the opinion of one of the modelers and a link to his work: 
 
"... Unfortunately, the project failed to avoid several errors that are easy to fix. These are:
- ribs part 11-40. Some of them are longer than the places marked for gluing them on the bottom of the hull, part 10. They do not need to be trimmed. Additionally, I resigned from part c, so as not to make them too thick.
- planks. From what I remember, three of them have incorrect markings on the outside. Planks 48La bow part - the number is duplicated, in practice one of them is 46La. The numbers of one of the outer, stern planks, between 46 and 48, have also been swapped, I matched them based on the inner part..."

Szkuta built by T. Król

And the second build log with similar notes:

Szkuta built by Ryszard
 
2. When it comes to the instructions and assembly drawings, further shots/details can always be added, so whether in my projects or in cooperation with other designers, we will try to ensure that the instructions are as readable and clear as possible for the modeler .
 
Congratulations on the built model!
Greeting
Tomek

Hi Paul, excellent—thank you for your feedback and help!
 
Jay 

Hi Jay, I ordered the Cheerful wood package from Joe at Modeler’s Sawmill. I found that the package was more than enough to complete Cheerful, although even if you add more to your order it will always come in handy for another project. Good luck with your build.

Gary,thank you very much. I was at the hobby store the other day to pick up some basswood sheets and it has been on backorder for quite some time. Don’t know if that is the case in other areas but I’ve started looking at stir sticks in a different light. Some of them I’ve gotten lately have been very nice quality. They could be good framing material in the future.😀

Great progress on the sharpie, Paul.  Nice deck crowning process!  You never know when a stirring stick will come in handy.
 
Gary