CharlieZardoz

Added a few more.

Nice progress, Charlie and also what sounds like a good plan.  

Added a few more.

Here you can see the rough estimates of where I will have the planks end. I am using the rule of every 4th repeating via the diagram below. This makes an interval between planks of about 3/4" an inch or 4' maybe a bit small but thought doing every 3rd plank would not look as neat. The planks themselves as stated before are around 17' the lower planks are not cut since they will be covered in cooper however I did use pencil lines to get the overall planking pattern down so things look as they should. This is all very new for me so having the lower planks detailed like this means I can practice then potentially cover up my learning curve with copper plates
 
 

Hi all. So here you see the next plank below the wale is done and the wood strip was cut into 3 pieces each about 3 and 1/16" or about 17' real life. The front piece was spiled from a wider plank to get some shape to the hard curve the back was tapered slightly to make room for the transom. From this point itll just be a matter of the planks meeting in the middle. The stern definitely needs steelers/drop planks. The front will need more tapered spiled planks. I may modify the shape of the existing planks a bit depending on how the next strips naturally bend.
 
The wale ledge to the planking material might be ever so slightly steep but I wanted it very pronounced since many issues I've seen with this model is that the wale is not raised enough and blends in. Since this whole area will be painted black that contrast should be nice and pronounced. 

Added a few more.

Here you can see the rough estimates of where I will have the planks end. I am using the rule of every 4th repeating via the diagram below. This makes an interval between planks of about 3/4" an inch or 4' maybe a bit small but thought doing every 3rd plank would not look as neat. The planks themselves as stated before are around 17' the lower planks are not cut since they will be covered in cooper however I did use pencil lines to get the overall planking pattern down so things look as they should. This is all very new for me so having the lower planks detailed like this means I can practice then potentially cover up my learning curve with copper plates
 
 

Here you can see the rough estimates of where I will have the planks end. I am using the rule of every 4th repeating via the diagram below. This makes an interval between planks of about 3/4" an inch or 4' maybe a bit small but thought doing every 3rd plank would not look as neat. The planks themselves as stated before are around 17' the lower planks are not cut since they will be covered in cooper however I did use pencil lines to get the overall planking pattern down so things look as they should. This is all very new for me so having the lower planks detailed like this means I can practice then potentially cover up my learning curve with copper plates
 
 

Hi all. So here you see the next plank below the wale is done and the wood strip was cut into 3 pieces each about 3 and 1/16" or about 17' real life. The front piece was spiled from a wider plank to get some shape to the hard curve the back was tapered slightly to make room for the transom. From this point itll just be a matter of the planks meeting in the middle. The stern definitely needs steelers/drop planks. The front will need more tapered spiled planks. I may modify the shape of the existing planks a bit depending on how the next strips naturally bend.
 
The wale ledge to the planking material might be ever so slightly steep but I wanted it very pronounced since many issues I've seen with this model is that the wale is not raised enough and blends in. Since this whole area will be painted black that contrast should be nice and pronounced. 

Good morning all. So thought I should give an update for the week. I finally attached the wale and true keel. This was quite a challenge as the wale was a 1/16" by 5/32" strip of boxwood so learning how to curve the wood on this very sleek hull shape was a challenge. I opted not to spile since I wanted to maintain the sharp shape of the strip and also its such a small model (the front half of the wale is 3"). Anyways it worked with a bit of assistance as you can see in the pics.
 
So what you see below at the bow is the keel minus the beak. That piece will be added later. The keel and wale will be painted black so thought it neat to leave the beak tip unpainted to add contrast. The reason why I chose boxwood for the wale over cherry is so it doesn't splinter but also thought that even if painted there may be a slightly different grain texture to make the wale stand out. The back of the wale curves slightly upward and gets thinner at the stern. Also the wale is in 4 parts. Front and back halves which join at the middle but also an upper strip which is 3/64 by 3/64" boxwood. This made a little ledge at the top of the wale where I can place the deadeye channels and also a holly strip to add a white molding. The above railings and bulwarks I will add after finishing the planking to avoid banging them around and getting damaged.
 
The bow image where the two wales meet shows a bit of spacing where the wale meets the keel. Did the best I could but will use some wood putty to fix that since it will be painted anyway. 

Eh I popped it off and shrunk it down a bit about 1/8" an inch. Now it looks right to my eye. I love this hobby in that you don't like how something looks you can just fix it. For me it was a practical space issue this is a very small ship so now it's 12 mm or 2.5 feet. (see correction it's actually 18mm/3.75')

Handle update. Thoughts? I'm feeling it's too long. :/

Here is the pump on deck. I am wondering of the handle is correct I wanted a bit of contrast but perhaps the top should be flush?
 
Also you can see the brass axle for the carronade carriage and the cleats added to the deckhouse. 

Hi everyone. A quick update. Decided to make a bilge pump since the ones available to buy are either too big or cast metal. I enjoy making tiny things that work. It's about 3/4" and all made from scratch. I glued wood strips to make the octogon shape and the nozzle at the bottom is a 1mm crimp bead. The black strips are electrical tape. The hinges are wire and can move the handle up and down.

Hi all. So here you see the next plank below the wale is done and the wood strip was cut into 3 pieces each about 3 and 1/16" or about 17' real life. The front piece was spiled from a wider plank to get some shape to the hard curve the back was tapered slightly to make room for the transom. From this point itll just be a matter of the planks meeting in the middle. The stern definitely needs steelers/drop planks. The front will need more tapered spiled planks. I may modify the shape of the existing planks a bit depending on how the next strips naturally bend.
 
The wale ledge to the planking material might be ever so slightly steep but I wanted it very pronounced since many issues I've seen with this model is that the wale is not raised enough and blends in. Since this whole area will be painted black that contrast should be nice and pronounced. 

Good morning all. So thought I should give an update for the week. I finally attached the wale and true keel. This was quite a challenge as the wale was a 1/16" by 5/32" strip of boxwood so learning how to curve the wood on this very sleek hull shape was a challenge. I opted not to spile since I wanted to maintain the sharp shape of the strip and also its such a small model (the front half of the wale is 3"). Anyways it worked with a bit of assistance as you can see in the pics.
 
So what you see below at the bow is the keel minus the beak. That piece will be added later. The keel and wale will be painted black so thought it neat to leave the beak tip unpainted to add contrast. The reason why I chose boxwood for the wale over cherry is so it doesn't splinter but also thought that even if painted there may be a slightly different grain texture to make the wale stand out. The back of the wale curves slightly upward and gets thinner at the stern. Also the wale is in 4 parts. Front and back halves which join at the middle but also an upper strip which is 3/64 by 3/64" boxwood. This made a little ledge at the top of the wale where I can place the deadeye channels and also a holly strip to add a white molding. The above railings and bulwarks I will add after finishing the planking to avoid banging them around and getting damaged.
 
The bow image where the two wales meet shows a bit of spacing where the wale meets the keel. Did the best I could but will use some wood putty to fix that since it will be painted anyway. 

Believe it or not I've actually recarved the handle piece to something more curved as so. I didn't care for the thin handle this looks more like the diecast handle does and probably more accurate (length still the same though). Haven't attached it yet so didn't post a picture here it is overlayed on top of the old one.

Here you can see the rough estimates of where I will have the planks end. I am using the rule of every 4th repeating via the diagram below. This makes an interval between planks of about 3/4" an inch or 4' maybe a bit small but thought doing every 3rd plank would not look as neat. The planks themselves as stated before are around 17' the lower planks are not cut since they will be covered in cooper however I did use pencil lines to get the overall planking pattern down so things look as they should. This is all very new for me so having the lower planks detailed like this means I can practice then potentially cover up my learning curve with copper plates
 
 

Hi all. So here you see the next plank below the wale is done and the wood strip was cut into 3 pieces each about 3 and 1/16" or about 17' real life. The front piece was spiled from a wider plank to get some shape to the hard curve the back was tapered slightly to make room for the transom. From this point itll just be a matter of the planks meeting in the middle. The stern definitely needs steelers/drop planks. The front will need more tapered spiled planks. I may modify the shape of the existing planks a bit depending on how the next strips naturally bend.
 
The wale ledge to the planking material might be ever so slightly steep but I wanted it very pronounced since many issues I've seen with this model is that the wale is not raised enough and blends in. Since this whole area will be painted black that contrast should be nice and pronounced. 

Hi. In this instance I am treating the wale as one piece. In reality it probably would have been more though in my mind I was picturing a ledge and once the holly strip is laid over it, any indication will be covered up. I will stagger the holly piece and the decking but good observation!

Good morning all. So thought I should give an update for the week. I finally attached the wale and true keel. This was quite a challenge as the wale was a 1/16" by 5/32" strip of boxwood so learning how to curve the wood on this very sleek hull shape was a challenge. I opted not to spile since I wanted to maintain the sharp shape of the strip and also its such a small model (the front half of the wale is 3"). Anyways it worked with a bit of assistance as you can see in the pics.
 
So what you see below at the bow is the keel minus the beak. That piece will be added later. The keel and wale will be painted black so thought it neat to leave the beak tip unpainted to add contrast. The reason why I chose boxwood for the wale over cherry is so it doesn't splinter but also thought that even if painted there may be a slightly different grain texture to make the wale stand out. The back of the wale curves slightly upward and gets thinner at the stern. Also the wale is in 4 parts. Front and back halves which join at the middle but also an upper strip which is 3/64 by 3/64" boxwood. This made a little ledge at the top of the wale where I can place the deadeye channels and also a holly strip to add a white molding. The above railings and bulwarks I will add after finishing the planking to avoid banging them around and getting damaged.
 
The bow image where the two wales meet shows a bit of spacing where the wale meets the keel. Did the best I could but will use some wood putty to fix that since it will be painted anyway. 

Believe it or not I've actually recarved the handle piece to something more curved as so. I didn't care for the thin handle this looks more like the diecast handle does and probably more accurate (length still the same though). Haven't attached it yet so didn't post a picture here it is overlayed on top of the old one.

Using a 3D printed program I made little teeny windows for the deckhouse. The left upper image you can see the inner frame is beveled/rounded. The upper right image you can see a ledge where I can place a small glass or plastic pane inside. I also finished planking the front of the house.

That's good to know. I've studied the cheerful pump plan and basically made a variation from a few that I've seen (hms Badger, AL's Dallas and the pump provided for Sultana).  Also I re-measured and realized made a mistake the pump handle is 18mm not 12 which is about 3.75' (was late must've been high off tung oil fumes ), since Cheerful is a larger ship than this cutter I think the size is fair to avoid crowding on the tiny 16' wide deck.  
 
 
Oh also planning on smoothing out that pump at the handle... just a bit

Eh I popped it off and shrunk it down a bit about 1/8" an inch. Now it looks right to my eye. I love this hobby in that you don't like how something looks you can just fix it. For me it was a practical space issue this is a very small ship so now it's 12 mm or 2.5 feet. (see correction it's actually 18mm/3.75')