jbelwood
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jbelwood got a reaction from hexnut in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Don't be too concerned about the wrong orientation of the floats. Just make sure the floats are
ahead of the spokes in the direction of forward rotation. Once installed only the lower 30 per cent
of the wheel will be visible. In the above port side photo, the wheel is still removable. Paddle box cover
not yet painted or glued in place. Can't understand why the photo got inserted mid sentence.
John Elwood
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jbelwood got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
It's been a while since anyone has posted here so I thought I'd bring it back to life.
Putting the paddle wheels together is a bit tricky so here's what I did.
I cut two lengths of wood approximately 7/16" wide and clamped them between the
wheel formers. after spending some time finding three radials where the spokes and
rings coincided. Once that was established I added the paddles with CA being careful
to orient them properly. Take your time here as the paddles are easily broken.
Unfortunately, I couldn't find a way to clean the brass prior to painting. Would suggest
washing the oils off your hands prior to working on this assembly. I finished by spray
painting two coats of Floquil Santa Fe Red onto each wheel.
John Elwood
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jbelwood got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
I drew the water line on the bare hull just to get the position of the scribe correct. Being very careful,
I removed the hull and painted it completely with primer and white. Then placed it back into the original
position. Since it was now positioned exactly as before, I simply drew a new water line onto the newly painted hull.
Now I placed the Tamiya tape just above the new pencil line, and checked it several times for accuracy.
Then covered the white area above the Tamiya tape with wide blue painters tape. Make sure the WL tape
it pressed down securely to prevent bleeding.
When you are satisfied, remove the hull and spray the bottom paint in several light coats until you get the
desired result. I removed the tape after about 15 minutes of drying time.
Yes Norm, that's me. What you saw was the trailer for the one hour video that was for sale several years ago.
It was sold out years ago. They had to remove the music that accompanied it due to product infringement.
Those interested simply go to you tube and punch in "John Elwood Model Railroader". Here's an example
of my work in keeping with the maritime theme. I have many more photos but don't want to interrupt this
thread with silly model railroad stuff.
John Elwood
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jbelwood got a reaction from SigEp Ziggy in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Here is the final finish on the hull. The photos speak for themselves. I forget
what I used for the bottom color. Again, large rattle can.
The last photo gives away a secret. Yes, I am also a model railroader, have been
for more than 40 years. The two on the left display cover articles that I had in
Model Railroader magazine and Railroad Model Craftsman more than a decade
ago. The layout itself has more than twelve feet of maritime scenes.
John Elwood
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jbelwood got a reaction from coxswain in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Here I must digress. Before putting any paint on the hull, I established the water line. As shown in the photo
I used (borrowed) a water line scribe available from Micro-Mark. The picture looks confusing as I used a large wall
mirror laid flat as a base for the scribe. This enabled me to run the scribe completely around the hull with no faults.
Using the plans, I marked where the WL met the bow and stern and placed a small pencil mark. Then spent considerable
time getting the hull positioned fore and aft and abeam to align with the scribe.
With this all established, I drew a complete WL on the hull as shown. Since I have yet to paint the hull, this allowed me
to correct any errors. I then removed the hull and primed it before painting it Rust-Oleum Ultra Cover Semi-Gloss White.
When completely dry, I then placed the completely painted hull precisely back next to the scribe. Having previously
established the correct height of the scribe, I simply drew the new WL without any errors.
That's all for now.
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jbelwood got a reaction from coxswain in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
As to the port holes on the bow, I used gallery glass. Of the more than 100 windows on the ship, I used
acetate exclusively. The openings are too large to accept any "liquid" formula that I am familiar with. Also,
you will be painting red curtains on each window. Mine came out perfect. You'll see as we go along.
As to the sponsons, I'll respond with photos and comments when you are ready. I did not plank-on-frame
as outlined in the instructions.
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jbelwood got a reaction from J11 in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
It's been a while since anyone has posted here so I thought I'd bring it back to life.
Putting the paddle wheels together is a bit tricky so here's what I did.
I cut two lengths of wood approximately 7/16" wide and clamped them between the
wheel formers. after spending some time finding three radials where the spokes and
rings coincided. Once that was established I added the paddles with CA being careful
to orient them properly. Take your time here as the paddles are easily broken.
Unfortunately, I couldn't find a way to clean the brass prior to painting. Would suggest
washing the oils off your hands prior to working on this assembly. I finished by spray
painting two coats of Floquil Santa Fe Red onto each wheel.
John Elwood
-
jbelwood got a reaction from mtaylor in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
It's been a while since anyone has posted here so I thought I'd bring it back to life.
Putting the paddle wheels together is a bit tricky so here's what I did.
I cut two lengths of wood approximately 7/16" wide and clamped them between the
wheel formers. after spending some time finding three radials where the spokes and
rings coincided. Once that was established I added the paddles with CA being careful
to orient them properly. Take your time here as the paddles are easily broken.
Unfortunately, I couldn't find a way to clean the brass prior to painting. Would suggest
washing the oils off your hands prior to working on this assembly. I finished by spray
painting two coats of Floquil Santa Fe Red onto each wheel.
John Elwood
-
jbelwood got a reaction from Jack12477 in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
I drew the water line on the bare hull just to get the position of the scribe correct. Being very careful,
I removed the hull and painted it completely with primer and white. Then placed it back into the original
position. Since it was now positioned exactly as before, I simply drew a new water line onto the newly painted hull.
Now I placed the Tamiya tape just above the new pencil line, and checked it several times for accuracy.
Then covered the white area above the Tamiya tape with wide blue painters tape. Make sure the WL tape
it pressed down securely to prevent bleeding.
When you are satisfied, remove the hull and spray the bottom paint in several light coats until you get the
desired result. I removed the tape after about 15 minutes of drying time.
Yes Norm, that's me. What you saw was the trailer for the one hour video that was for sale several years ago.
It was sold out years ago. They had to remove the music that accompanied it due to product infringement.
Those interested simply go to you tube and punch in "John Elwood Model Railroader". Here's an example
of my work in keeping with the maritime theme. I have many more photos but don't want to interrupt this
thread with silly model railroad stuff.
John Elwood
-
jbelwood got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Here is the final finish on the hull. The photos speak for themselves. I forget
what I used for the bottom color. Again, large rattle can.
The last photo gives away a secret. Yes, I am also a model railroader, have been
for more than 40 years. The two on the left display cover articles that I had in
Model Railroader magazine and Railroad Model Craftsman more than a decade
ago. The layout itself has more than twelve feet of maritime scenes.
John Elwood
-
jbelwood got a reaction from hexnut in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Here I must digress. Before putting any paint on the hull, I established the water line. As shown in the photo
I used (borrowed) a water line scribe available from Micro-Mark. The picture looks confusing as I used a large wall
mirror laid flat as a base for the scribe. This enabled me to run the scribe completely around the hull with no faults.
Using the plans, I marked where the WL met the bow and stern and placed a small pencil mark. Then spent considerable
time getting the hull positioned fore and aft and abeam to align with the scribe.
With this all established, I drew a complete WL on the hull as shown. Since I have yet to paint the hull, this allowed me
to correct any errors. I then removed the hull and primed it before painting it Rust-Oleum Ultra Cover Semi-Gloss White.
When completely dry, I then placed the completely painted hull precisely back next to the scribe. Having previously
established the correct height of the scribe, I simply drew the new WL without any errors.
That's all for now.
-
jbelwood got a reaction from coxswain in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
It's been a while since anyone has posted here so I thought I'd bring it back to life.
Putting the paddle wheels together is a bit tricky so here's what I did.
I cut two lengths of wood approximately 7/16" wide and clamped them between the
wheel formers. after spending some time finding three radials where the spokes and
rings coincided. Once that was established I added the paddles with CA being careful
to orient them properly. Take your time here as the paddles are easily broken.
Unfortunately, I couldn't find a way to clean the brass prior to painting. Would suggest
washing the oils off your hands prior to working on this assembly. I finished by spray
painting two coats of Floquil Santa Fe Red onto each wheel.
John Elwood
-
jbelwood got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
It's been a while since anyone has posted here so I thought I'd bring it back to life.
Putting the paddle wheels together is a bit tricky so here's what I did.
I cut two lengths of wood approximately 7/16" wide and clamped them between the
wheel formers. after spending some time finding three radials where the spokes and
rings coincided. Once that was established I added the paddles with CA being careful
to orient them properly. Take your time here as the paddles are easily broken.
Unfortunately, I couldn't find a way to clean the brass prior to painting. Would suggest
washing the oils off your hands prior to working on this assembly. I finished by spray
painting two coats of Floquil Santa Fe Red onto each wheel.
John Elwood
-
jbelwood got a reaction from Mirabell61 in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Here is the final finish on the hull. The photos speak for themselves. I forget
what I used for the bottom color. Again, large rattle can.
The last photo gives away a secret. Yes, I am also a model railroader, have been
for more than 40 years. The two on the left display cover articles that I had in
Model Railroader magazine and Railroad Model Craftsman more than a decade
ago. The layout itself has more than twelve feet of maritime scenes.
John Elwood
-
jbelwood got a reaction from tasmanian in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
I drew the water line on the bare hull just to get the position of the scribe correct. Being very careful,
I removed the hull and painted it completely with primer and white. Then placed it back into the original
position. Since it was now positioned exactly as before, I simply drew a new water line onto the newly painted hull.
Now I placed the Tamiya tape just above the new pencil line, and checked it several times for accuracy.
Then covered the white area above the Tamiya tape with wide blue painters tape. Make sure the WL tape
it pressed down securely to prevent bleeding.
When you are satisfied, remove the hull and spray the bottom paint in several light coats until you get the
desired result. I removed the tape after about 15 minutes of drying time.
Yes Norm, that's me. What you saw was the trailer for the one hour video that was for sale several years ago.
It was sold out years ago. They had to remove the music that accompanied it due to product infringement.
Those interested simply go to you tube and punch in "John Elwood Model Railroader". Here's an example
of my work in keeping with the maritime theme. I have many more photos but don't want to interrupt this
thread with silly model railroad stuff.
John Elwood
-
jbelwood got a reaction from Jack12477 in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Here is the final finish on the hull. The photos speak for themselves. I forget
what I used for the bottom color. Again, large rattle can.
The last photo gives away a secret. Yes, I am also a model railroader, have been
for more than 40 years. The two on the left display cover articles that I had in
Model Railroader magazine and Railroad Model Craftsman more than a decade
ago. The layout itself has more than twelve feet of maritime scenes.
John Elwood
-
jbelwood got a reaction from J11 in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Here is the final finish on the hull. The photos speak for themselves. I forget
what I used for the bottom color. Again, large rattle can.
The last photo gives away a secret. Yes, I am also a model railroader, have been
for more than 40 years. The two on the left display cover articles that I had in
Model Railroader magazine and Railroad Model Craftsman more than a decade
ago. The layout itself has more than twelve feet of maritime scenes.
John Elwood
-
jbelwood got a reaction from Kurt Bainum in Portland by chborgm - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters
Hi Clarence,
Hope you don't mind but I thought I'd send some pics of my Portland as of today. After 16 months from the start, I finally got the hurricane deck painted and
temporarily in place. Age related medical issues have weakened my resolve but I'm still going forth. Thus far this seems to be the easier part of the build. The
instructions from here on are extremely lacking in detail. Also, the upper rub rail and remaining trim will be painted white as shown in photos of the prototype.
This has not been an easy challenge.
Be good my friend,
John Elwood
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jbelwood got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Here I must digress. Before putting any paint on the hull, I established the water line. As shown in the photo
I used (borrowed) a water line scribe available from Micro-Mark. The picture looks confusing as I used a large wall
mirror laid flat as a base for the scribe. This enabled me to run the scribe completely around the hull with no faults.
Using the plans, I marked where the WL met the bow and stern and placed a small pencil mark. Then spent considerable
time getting the hull positioned fore and aft and abeam to align with the scribe.
With this all established, I drew a complete WL on the hull as shown. Since I have yet to paint the hull, this allowed me
to correct any errors. I then removed the hull and primed it before painting it Rust-Oleum Ultra Cover Semi-Gloss White.
When completely dry, I then placed the completely painted hull precisely back next to the scribe. Having previously
established the correct height of the scribe, I simply drew the new WL without any errors.
That's all for now.
-
jbelwood got a reaction from Mirabell61 in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Hull primed with Rust-Oleum flat gray primer.p
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jbelwood got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Hull primed with Rust-Oleum flat gray primer.p
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jbelwood got a reaction from RFP in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Sponsons for the Portland.
First off, I want to thank Clarence Borgmeyer for suggesting this idea for the sponson build.
I first cut the sponson profiles from plan Sheets 1 & 3. Then traced them onto manila folder
paper and cut them out. Traced the outlines of these onto the respective hull sides and bottom
of main deck.
Here was a major problem. As you can see, the three frames are too long for the application.
Did away with frames altogether.
Here is where I established the shape of the one piece cover to come. Taking the two manila
cutouts, I over lapped them and positioned them against the sponson outlines. Then taped
the two pieces together and then to the hull to check the fit. If you look closely you can see
that there are two pieces forming this shape.
th
Then I placed the cutouts onto a sheet of 3/32" basswood and cut out the new sponson covers.
Glued them in place with Titebond. The "bullnose" ends were shaped with a belt/disc sander. Use
the paper forms to draw the outline on the square blocks. Carved a 3/32" notch into the bullnose
flat end and slid it under the basswood. Very little sanding and filler needed.
I'm quite happy with the results.
John Elwood
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jbelwood got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Sponsons for the Portland.
First off, I want to thank Clarence Borgmeyer for suggesting this idea for the sponson build.
I first cut the sponson profiles from plan Sheets 1 & 3. Then traced them onto manila folder
paper and cut them out. Traced the outlines of these onto the respective hull sides and bottom
of main deck.
Here was a major problem. As you can see, the three frames are too long for the application.
Did away with frames altogether.
Here is where I established the shape of the one piece cover to come. Taking the two manila
cutouts, I over lapped them and positioned them against the sponson outlines. Then taped
the two pieces together and then to the hull to check the fit. If you look closely you can see
that there are two pieces forming this shape.
th
Then I placed the cutouts onto a sheet of 3/32" basswood and cut out the new sponson covers.
Glued them in place with Titebond. The "bullnose" ends were shaped with a belt/disc sander. Use
the paper forms to draw the outline on the square blocks. Carved a 3/32" notch into the bullnose
flat end and slid it under the basswood. Very little sanding and filler needed.
I'm quite happy with the results.
John Elwood
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jbelwood got a reaction from mtaylor in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Norm,
I had the very same issue. Profiles should be identical. I simply added a small piece of deck material
and shaped it to fit. Another thing...I did not glue any of the decks down until I was darned sure everything
fit correctly.
I assume that you will be adding the sponsons and painting the hull prior to working on the levels above
the main deck. Also, now is the time you'll want to pick out the deck color.
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jbelwood got a reaction from mtaylor in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Hi Norm, you can refer to me as John, if you please.
I used the spacers as suggested but two more on the main deck in no particular area. As to the hull shaping, I used the
one from the older kit. It was beautifully shaped right out of the box. Since I don't have a Dremel I did all of the shaping
with a sanding stick and X-acto #11 blade. Also used HobbyLite filler. Over all it took me about 3 hours to finish shaping
the hull.
I was able to get an accurate, I thought, center line on each of the various decks. However, as I went along, they didn't
quite match up with the one below. I wound up measuring from the sides, where needed, to get a more precise fit.
I don't have near the amount of photos that you have Norm. Didn't anticipate a build log from the start. Will pass along
what I have and comment where needed. You seem to be off to a much better start than I.
Up next, those blasted sponsons. Will try to post my approach later today.
John
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