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Everything posted by toms10

  1. Hi Allan, Thanks for your input. The copy paper was to draw light lines with a #2 pencil then a quick spray coat of matte sealant to keep the lines from smudging. I would then put a light coating of spray adhesive on the paper to adhere the silkspan on each side. The silkspan is lightly spray painted with Liquitex unbleached titanium as you mentioned. Now when the pencil lines show through they will be muted and less noticeable. I was also thinking of white tissue paper between the silk span or maybe just draw the pencil lines on the back side of one sheet of silkspan and then cover
  2. Hi George thank you for your response. This is exactly the information I was looking for. I was also curious about the actual thickness of the cloth used for the sails. I only found reference to a number that was designated for a particular thickness in my reference books but was unable to correspond that to an actual inch measurement. I am going to be using a silkspan on both sides of a sheet of paper. The total thickness is .008” which might be a bit heavy at the 1:85 scale I am using. I may substitute the center paper ply with tissue. This technique was developed by a fellow
  3. Got a little farther. In the words of a fellow member, “Taking baby steps”. 😁. Added the stuns’l booms to the main and fore course and top yards. Just need to add the foot rope and then they will be ready to have the sails attached. Of course I still need to make the sails but that’s a minor detail. 😁😁😁 When I do get to attaching the yards to the masts I think it would be easiest to start with the bow sprit and work my way back to the mizzenmast. I also think starting with the royals and working my way dow would probably be the easiest since the lower sails will make it more diffic
  4. Nothing wrong with baby steps. All steps lead to the finish line. The good thing about a hobby is there is nobody standing at the finish line with a stopwatch! 😜. It is really looking good. Keep on baby stepping. 😁😁 Tom
  5. Thanks Henry, Yes I was referring to the reef tackles. I didn't want to put extra lines in unnecessarily. There are enough already. 🙂 Tom
  6. Hi MSW, I have a question regarding the running rigging lines when a sail is furled, specifically lines that are secured to the kringles on the sail itself such as bow, leech and reef lines. I am assuming these lines are loosened from their belyaing pins but stay attached to their kringles and "rolled up" into the sail so the lines come out near the yard arms and then reattached to their belaying pins. I just want to make sure as I am going to furl or at least partially, the fore and main course sails on my Leopard as not to obstruct the details on the the decks below them.
  7. Happy new year John. Glad to hear you have the sail layout figured out. I am looking forward to seeing her with full sails. I know the feeling about the research thing. That is basically all I have been doing the past month. The Vikings had the right idea, one sail in the middle of the boat! Keeps it very simple. 😃 LOL Tom
  8. Hello all I haven’t posted anything in a while but I have been busy. A great deal of reading and studying various rigging books and chipping away on the yards. Seems I am putting in time but not seeing much progress right now but I am gaining more knowledge on running rigging! 👍 I am in the process of tying the various blocks to the yards. Will most likely need to put an order in with Chuck as I don’t have enough to complete the job. No rush though, I still need to make all the sails. I plan on trying Ron Neilson’s method that he outlined in the 2018 winter NRG Journal (vol #63) Here is w
  9. Jeff, As Glenn mentioned and I forgot to... After the lines were tied and everything was the way I wanted it, I took a cheap paint brush and brushed over all the knots with some diluted Elmer's white glue (50% water/50%glue). It not only locks the knots in place but also stiffens up the whole assembly of lines. Tom
  10. Hi Jeff, Post #279 of my Leopard build log has a picture of what Wefalk is describing. I used this method with good success. Just click the link in my signature to find the log. With some quick math, I figure I ended up with 2,918 clove hitches... but who's counting!🤪 Good luck, Tom
  11. Hi Mark I just found out what “splicing the main brace” means. Page 296, last paragraph in Harland’s book Seamanship in the Age of Sail. I feel a bit silly now but am more educated. Thanks. Yo ho ho and a bottle of rum! Tom
  12. Thanks Mark. I am not sure what you mean about splicing the main brace.
  13. Time for an update. I reached another milestone today in that the standing rigging is complete. At least I think so. 😁 and one view from the seagull. Now I need to finish up the yards that I started a while back then on to the running rigging. Stay safe everyone. It gets harder and harder every day. Tom
  14. Jim Are you sure these are not pictures of a real ship!? Excellent work on the mast wedges. I like you don’t have any fancy machines so I can appreciate the ingenuity needed to make some of the pieces. Well done. Tom
  15. Chuck health is number 1. Without taking care of that everything else comes to a grinding halt. I am sure we all would rather wait a while for Syren products than never have the chance again! Take care of yourself. Tom
  16. Well done Jim. With regards to the “made mast” I used a similar technique to create the octagonal shape in the center area of the yards. I am really enjoying following this build. Great work. Tom
  17. Hi moderators, Are the posts in each thread still numbered? I believe they used to be in the upper right hand corner of each post. This is handy to have when someone references a post number in a reply. Is there a setting somewhere that I am missing? I am currently viewing this forum on my IPhone if that matters. Tom
  18. Hi everyone, I “had” to take a two week hiatus from modeling to build a mirrored wall shelf (33 x 53 inches!) for my daughter (just can’t say no when they ask 😉) I am back at it. I reviewed my pin layouts I made a while back. I sketched out a schematic for each mast area and developed a key as to where all the lines will be tied off. I also have been working on the yards. I have them rough cut to length and finished the octagon area on all of them. Finishing up some of the odds and ends to finish the standing rigging
  19. Hi Roger The AL Constellation was my introduction into model ship building. I was able to get the kit for $120 on EBay. A small price to pay to try something I have always wanted to do but never really had the time. I also assumed the kit would be somewhat realistic and would be something I could be proud of. As it turns out it was a nothing more than practice for my current scratch build which is not a bad thing in itself. Knowing what I know now (scratch building is certainly an eye opener and learning opportunity), it is just disappointing finding out iwhat you worked so hard
  20. Hi John, It’s coming along very decent! I have found that I am by far my worst critic. So following that logic, if you think it is pretty good it must really be fantastic! Keep up the good work. Tom
  21. Hi John, It's coming along bit by bit. It is amazing how many little details need to be done. Hopefully most of them don't go unnoticed by "normal folk" or should I say non-ship modellers. I say that because I don't consider us (model ship builders) to be anything close to normal. Anybody that does this type of work, to the detail level we see on this site definitely does not fall into the mainstream norm... whatever that is. 😀 Keep up the good work. Tom
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