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Everything posted by toms10

  1. Hi John i did some checking on the canvas roof for the hurricane house. As ragove mentioned in his post theModel Shipway plans say to cover on canvas. I am not sure off the top of my head but I believe the Shipway plans are from about 1939. Unfortunately when I was aboard her last summer I did not get a good pic of the hurricane house and I don’t remember what the roof was made of. I also checked in the book “The Charles W. Morgan” by Leavitt. I could not find any reference to the roof material however, I did see a couple of pictures that lead me to believe it was not canv
  2. Hi James, Welcome. I am CT yankee... at least until I retire in 8 years. This is a great site where everyone helps everyone. I have learned tons here. Tom
  3. Nice job John. I just finished tying 2100 clove hitches on my lower and futtock shrouds for my Leopard. With the Morgan being my next build, those battens are looking pretty good. Tom
  4. Hi Jack, Just catching up on your build. It's coming along great. Sorry to hear about your helper. Tom
  5. I use either an #11 exacting or more often just a paint scraper that fits a razor blade. Chop it with the razor blade close then use a sanding stick to bring it to size and the correct shape. Tom
  6. Havelock, It is Jim (Bluto 1790) that is doing the jaw dropping work. I am just as blown away as you.! Tom
  7. Nice recovery John. If you don’t fix (redo) things along the way it can only be for two reasons. 1) Your perfect. 2) You just don’t care. if your human like me number one just plain doesn’t apply. Again if your anything like me, number two is not an option either. If we didn’t care about doing things right (otherwise known as OCD which all modelers need and have) we would not last very long in this hobby. Enjoy the journey. 😁 Keep up the nice work. It is a beautiful model. When I get started on mine I hope I can make it as good as yours. Tom
  8. Hi Shortgrass, I am starting to plan my next build which will be a scratch built Morgan. Fortunately for me I only live about an hour away from Mystic, CT where she is docked so I can take a lot of pictures for reference to augment the plans. If you do a search on this forum you will find some nice build logs of the Morgan. Looking forward to seeing your build. Tom
  9. Jim, I am just catching up on your build log and it is really coming out nice. It is amazing how many miscellaneous things aside from the normal model build stuff that needs to be considered when doing a cross section build at the scale you are doing. Excellent job, thought and research on your part. Tom
  10. Hi Jim Good to hear from you. Hope all is well. Top mast rat lines will be a breeze compared to this past marathon. 😜 Thinking more on it, I think I will continue on with the standing rigging. Futtock shrouds next to get the top mast dead eyes secured. Then I can put in the top mast shrouds and finally the last sets of rat lines. Of course, all plans subject to change without notice. 😁 Be safe Tom
  11. Major milestone tonight. Finished the rat lines on all the lower shrouds. I said I would count them but I couldn’t help myself... 1,392 clove hitches. I used the “draw the actual shroud position on paper” technique to keep the lines properly spaced and the shrouds straight. Here is the finished product. Maybe not a “10” but looks pretty good to me. I used 50 wt thread to keep the scale and keep the knots from being too bulky. Not sure what I will work on next. Definitely something without clove hitches. The yards seem to be calling. Th
  12. As Jaager already said the spine should be straight and true or you will fight it the whole way during the hull build. Would it be possible to glue another 1/8” piece opposite to each other to the sides of the bulkhead that is off. That would put wood where it is supposed to be for planking, treenails or whatever else might need the edge of the bulkhead to be in the correct place. Seems to me the simplest way and nobody will ever know but us and I won’t tell 😁 Tom
  13. I am tying ratlines right now... about 2000 clove hitches. I don't see any advantage with this. It would seem that it would be more difficult to attache the whole thing to the model and have it fit properly. How to you keep everything straight and aligned if the shrouds are not in place yet. Definitely seems more trouble than it's worth. Just my 2 cents. Tom
  14. Ondras, this is really nice work. Very clean and crisp workmanship. I will enjoy following this one. Tom
  15. Hi Jim, Okay, who am I kidding. I am an engineer... I have to count them. I am just wired that way. Tom
  16. Hello MSW What started out as only intending to do the rat lines behind the futtock shrouds while they were easy to get to, ended up being a complete set on the main mast. I guess that’s good since sooner or later they need to get done. I guess I will do the same on the port side now. Then I can put in the lower deadeyes for the top mast shrouds which was the original plan. I guess plans are like rules... subject to change without notice. 😜😁 And before anyone asks, I don’t know how many clove hitches I will need. Quick math tells me about 1300 just for the lowe
  17. Hi Jim, Yes that is what it looked like. The keel was a 1/4" square piece of walnut. The ends where the bulkheads were being used were built up by gluing 1/4" square pieces on top of each other until I got the height I needed to secure a bulkhead. After sleeping on it, I realized what was being asked. I just don't have any pictures. Thanks for the sketch. Guy, I hope this helps. This site always has somebody that knows the answer... even if we are not always sure of the question. Happy modeling, Tom
  18. Guy will these photos help you. The keel was built up in height enough to allow a bulkhead With a slot to slide over the keel just like a standard POB build. these are all the photos of the framework that I have. Tom
  19. Guy, I am sorry, I don't have a clue what you are talking about. Tom
  20. Hi Guy, I am not really sure I understand your question. The keel is laid just as any other keel. The full frames in the center where the cut is are attached to the keel as would normally be done. I used bulkheads aft and forward of that section and notched them just as you would a frame where they attach to the keel. I then put little spacers between the bulkheads to help keep them square and strong. Hope this pic helps, Tom
  21. Noticed my HMS Leopard log (toms10) is in the wrong group. It currently resides in the 1801-1850 group. It should be in the 1751-1800. Like the new set up. Thanks to the moderators for all the work you put into this forum. It is truly a good thing to be part of. Tom
  22. A little more progress picking away at the standing rigging. My crows now have feet😁. From what I read in various sources, crows feet at the turn of the 18th century seemed to be somewhat “optional” or at the discretion of the captain or sailing master. I liked what they added to the model so me being the captain instructed my sail master to have them installed. I enjoyed making these. There is one on each mast. The closeup above is the one on the main mast. Tom
  23. Hi Jack good to hear from you. I may be a bit bias as it was my first build. It was a fun build. You need to be careful about the order of the steps. The instructions are not the greatest. I believe I mentioned it in my log. have fun with it. Tom
  24. Hi TreeSqueak I do have the instruction booklet and picture booklet. Are you in the US? PM me your address and I will mail them to you. I don’t see me needing them in the future. Tom
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