NMBROOK

Quite often the glue, like epoxy, is harder than the wood.  Using sandpaper will scour out wood faster than it removes the glue, where a scraper will take everything down evenly.

I have also used scrapers for many years making furniture.
However, for the deck planking of my current project I cannot use them because I use brass tree-nails. I have not tried it, but I am afraid I would tear out the brass or damage the planking with scrapers.
 
Why brass wire for tree-nails? I found them to be more uniform and easier to install. I pre-drill the holes with a #78 drill and insert the .015 inch wire with a touch of CA. After sanding the surface, I apply a tiny dab of the patina I use to blacken the ends, which at full strength, reacts immediately. I wipe the surface with a wet towel and dry it as quickly as I can and apply a coat of poly-wipe. There is no effect on the wood that I can see even after several weeks sitting around.

Hi Guys
 
Here's what I just did using a scraper on my 1/80 Mary Rose build. Just finished planking on one side of the bottom of the hull using boxwood  and swiss pear from Crown Timberyard.
 
Keith

Wish you all the best with this build Bob,you certainly don't waste any time in getting started
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Wish you all the best with this build Bob,you certainly don't waste any time in getting started
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Wish you all the best with this build Bob,you certainly don't waste any time in getting started
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

This will be my version of Chuck's Cheerful. In addition to Chuck's prototype build log, there are already a couple of other logs started, and I'm sure there will be many more. It should be fun to work along with the others.
 
While waiting for the lantern parts that I needed to complete Essex, I decided to jump the gun and begin Cheerful. Since I lack power tools, and am reluctant to cut all of the framing by hand, I chose to use Chuck's laser cut bulkhead and former set. They are as near to perfect as you can get. The ply is uniform and the fit is precise. It was a simple matter to assemble the structure. Being a creature of habit, I added bracing at the bulkhead-former joints, as I've always done. Chuck didn't do this, and I'm sure that it wasn't necessary.
 
Before adding the bulkheads, but after adding the rabbet strip, I assembled and added the boxwood stem and keel.
 
I will be doing the hull planking and fixtures and furniture in boxwood and the decking in holly. I obtained the boxwood from Crown Timberyard, and it looks great. I chose not to get the offered package, because it is entirely composed of wood sheets from which the strips must be cut. Once again, my lack of tools caused me to get the wood mostly in milled strips, with some sheets.
 
I'm now starting to fair the hull.
 
Bob

Wonderful,super clean work Marsalv Doris has also come up trumps with a stunning figurehead
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Interesting stuff,unfortunately i can't comment on British vs American designs having not researched American construction techniques.I can say though that through everything i have read,the consensus is that French naval architecture,at least in the 17th and 18th century was vastly superior to the British.The French constructed light,agile,highly maneuverable ships,whereas the British lost out through over engineering of everything.It was the difference in training of the crew that made up for the shortcomings of British designs.To my knowledge,Britain had been importing some of their timber as far back as the 17th century.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thanks so much again to all who have contributed their generous comments and "likes". Nothing can mean more than receiving such recognition from modelers whose work I respect and admire so greatly. 
 
Bob

Hi All,
  So, I started to make some sawdust by doing a test frame. The templates were cut out and glued onto basswood…I had to color code them as of course the printer decided it was out of color ink again! The futtocks and top timbers were cut out using my coping saw staying well clear of the outer lines.  I then had to do a fair amount of sanding to get to ~1/16 in of the outer line and so leave some fairing margin.  Floor and first futtock notches were cut out using a razor saw and cleaned out using a chisel before filing the notch smooth. Components were then glued up following the assembly sheet and then were given a light sand with 320 grit paper to clean them up.   Never tried something like this before so overall pretty happy with how my test frame turned out. Feedback would be much appreciated if anyone sees anything amiss that would cause problems later on in the build.   Thumbnails below.   Cheers,   Nigel.        

Hi All,
  I’ve decided to try and build the Triton cross section after seeing all your great builds. I love seeing all the exposed framing details and so just have to try this build myself. I am also hoping making this cross section will help me do a better job on the Confederacy which will be my next full build.   I am using boxwood for the main structural components and my thanks to Jason at Crown Timberyard for the gorgeous boxwood he just milled for me. I plan to use swiss pear for all the planking, holly for the decking and perhaps walnut for all the deck furniture. I hope these choices will make for a nice paint with wood look once finished.    My keel, false keel and keelson images are below. I’ve made them much longer than the plans call for as I want to follow Raymond’s lead (see link below to his beautiful build) and add the main mast and yards with their standing rigging. This will allow me to gain some much needed rigging skills as I also plan to fully rig my Confederacy. You can also see the small copper tool I made to shape the notch in the keel after I started the slot using a small wood saw.   Hope some of you can follow along and help keep me out of too much trouble! Just don’t expect a fast build please!    Moderators, may I have access to the rest of the plans please?    Cheers,   Nigel.   Link to Raymond's rigged cross section: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/5545-hms-triton-148-scale-cross-section-complete)       

Thank you Greg .
I continue with planking from the opposite side.

So I began planking the hull. It's my first attempt planking in one layer. I'll see what happens, and depending on the result I will decide whether to make copper protection or not. I started with a few plank in keel area.

Thanks to all .
To amateur: I wanted to build a model in scale 1:48. But due to space limitation I chose  a compromise scale 1:52.
 
Now is the time to show the figurehead which made for me Doris (for those who do not know her work http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/854-royal-caroline-by-doris-card-1749-140/?hl=doris).I appreciate very much this assistance because my attempt would probably ended very pathetic.

So I decided to continue on Pandora. I solved before winter whether to use color or not. Finally, the choice fell on a partially colored model and started to spray wales. On the first attempt with airbrush it does not look bad.

Inner planking is completed now including sweep ports and holes for fixed blocks. Now I am standing before deciding whether to paint inner planking red or left it in its natural state.

Hi Nils and Dave,
thanks for compliment .
I started the inner planking - waterways, spirketting and quickwork are completed.

I started the hull planking - the lower counter. It is my first attempt to planking the hull in one layer.

Hi Omega1234,
thanks for nice comments.
 
Making of the rudder, hardware - pintles, gudgeons etc. will be added later.

I added the quarter deck transom, lower sill for lights (windows) and helm port.

Framing the stern - the inner counter timbers and the side counter timbers.

Preparation for mounting the bowsprit. - only the third attempt was successful.

Hi Daniel,
thank you for compliment .
Finished reinforcement the upper parts of the bulkheads, "transom" and stern post.

Jan and Dave,
 
thanks for comments.
Bulkheads are now glued to the keel.