NMBROOK

Next step is cutting the bulkheads rough, there are 16 though i only have enough lime at the moment for about 8.
plans glued to the sheet with a simple thin layer of wood glue.

I did plan to cut the frames at an angle to make it simpler to shape but after using a scroll saw again i dont think that would be a good idea.... so back to the simple file!

Hello,
thanks for the nice comments.
I have to correct a statement.
This piece of equipment is not a stearing roller (reel ). Meanwhile, I know that this is a chain-pipe. This part is used for the anchor chain, to let down into the chain locker.

Hi again,
 
after a short break I would like finally finished my Royal Caroline. Although most of the parts are already done, there is still a lot of work on the sails and rigging. I started slowly preparing blocks and auxiliary cables on the bowsprit. Jib traveller will be mounted later on bowsprit.

Hi PG
I knew you liked this ship and when I saw the title,I immediately thought of you    I think you will enjoy starting with a clean sheet of paper,I know I am,it can sometimes be frustrating 'kitbashing' and you end up doing more work than starting from scratch
Excellent choice of timbers,they are both expensive in the UK,but are much more enjoyable to work with than the stuff that normally comes with kits.Be prepared to go through a lot of blades with Boxwood though,it is extremely hard.
I would recommend you buy Frolich's book if you haven't already,it is expensive,but does have a section on his build of this model and worth every penny IMHO.
I look forward to following along with your 'journey'
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hello everyone and welcome to my first scratch build, although i've been planning to build this for a while now this will most likely be a slow build.
First came to me when looking through the russian sites that this seems like a pretty good ship to start on, i plan for loads of detail so there was no point in making it any smaller in scale, inspired by dafi and his hms victory build i'll hope to add figures and all sorts but not too much to over crowd it. I'll also be attempting to add micro LEDS to this build.
The ship will be built mainly with pear and some boxwood with frames of lime. 


So first apologies for the poor quality photos, soon to be fixed. First i start off with the keel using 3mm plywood instead of making it in parts i decided to just make it one whole solid piece which wasn't easy when you're a noob with a scroll saw, which is why i decided to drill wholes to guide the saw.


 

Thanks for all of your kind comments,
 
John, yes not too sea-worthy but you're right she would not be in the museum today.
 
Michael

Hi all,
 
the first gunport linings have gone in.
Tom

here we have both, the hearth and the swinging kitchen. They look nice together, don't they?
The last item in the cooking ensemble is the bread oven, which will follow later. Meanwhile I'll continue working on the hull.
till then
 
Tom

Hi all !
 
The galley hearth is completed. It was a joy to build. The brick construction was encased in wooden walls, which were reinforced with St. Andrew crosses. It sits under the forecastle together with the swinging galley kitchen.
Bit of a shame, you see the side walls, when looking from the maindeck under the forecastle. Maybe it is possible to see a bit inside the hearth when you look at a slightly diagonal angle. Or through a gunport. Remains to be seen.

Hello Johann,
NMBROOK schreibt meine Meinung.
Kar   l

Great advise Dan, why didn't I think of that




WOW, even better!

They are going to look great Michael As ever,I am thinking if you could laminate the two sections together,then mill to size and mill the rebate on the MF70.This would mean perfect squareness and an exact lip on all lids.Just a suggestion my friend,thinking of how this mass production job could be made a little easier.Hardest thing would be holding them.Possibly spot gluing to a sheet of ply and clamping that down.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Excellent work Michael and a good bit of 'matchmarking' as we call it in my day job
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Mates,
 
Continuing with cannon door assemblies; I first looked through the 60 or so inserts that I cut out looking for those that would fit right away. Found a few, some minor edge sanding, and then glued the outer parts of the doors with the inner trim pieces.
 
Used a bit of painters tape to stabilize the outer doors from moving to make it easier to adjust the inner parts before the glue set.
 
Noted their locations and then used hobby masking tape to fix them to their correctly adjusted places. I know that if I had not taped them on my location drawing, for sure the paper would move and well…you know (;-)
 
This bit is sort of fun, though I have to figure out how to drill in two eyelets for the ropes (opening and closings). I’m thinking of using only one eyelet and then curving the backside that will face the hull. This is probably destined to create breakage. I have very little working room after the lions are glued into place,
 
Two eyelet pieces one on each side is probably the best solution….attach the ropes, then the hinges followed by the lion heads.??
 
Yes, I need complete the chain plate bits first, been very lazy with this, though as you can see its been started. The other side has been completed for all three masts.
 
Thanks again for dropping by.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Is it just me or has it taken considerably less time to get to this point compared to v1?
 
A redux is so painful emotionally, but the practice it forces upon us is so worth it.
 
It may be hard seeing this going in to a restart, but thinking back to when you made the decision to restart and how hard it must have been. Isn't it amazing how right that decision feels now.
As I celebrate my 2nd year this month of my first build, I remember marveling at the Plank on Frame masterpieces of the old MSW v1 and never consider myself able to even wish of such, but 2 years and a lot of helpful, patient individuals have made a one time fantasy into a goal.
 
I find your work Inspiring Mark, but not just the Licorne build and her log, but rather everything you do by encouraging other builders. Your presence within the community of MSW is a bigger goal then a POF ship. Thank you for always raising the bar, while at the same time helping to teach and encourage others to reach their goals and clear their hurdles. I still think your a clone, that or a speed reader and typist. FLASH the super hero maybe. 
 
You have earned your RESPECT. 
So if you say so, silled is a word, ....  I think a verb, meaning to have constructed a sill  
Here's to your symmetrically silled Gun Ports 
 
Your Licorne is Brilliant Mark and so is her Captain

I have the gunports properly silled and sized (is silled a word?).  I've also hit her with another round of fairing and am almost comfortable with it but I'll hold off until the stern is built, checked, verified and approved as this was my Waterloo the last time.  Or maybe the wrong side of Trafalgar?   Hmm... 
 
Anyway, I've started measuring, scratching my head, and sorting out how I'm going to do this and get it right.  I'm thinking I'll have draw the transoms, make templates for starters.
 

 

Oh the irony of "mistakes" seems as if they are, for this ship, correct funny....
Yes I have in fact read a bit about even how the port side differs from the starboard side. Well now I feel better.

Hello,
thanks for the kind words.
This component I have now burnished.
I think it looks better.

 

 

A small,but possibly useful update Work has stopped on my deck 'treenailing' as I have now been waiting a week for some more drillbits to arrive
I have decided to start producing the deck clamps 'in the rough'.These are made from 3mm thick pear sheet and spiled,profiled and prebent where necessary to conform to the inside of the hull.This is not helped by the fact that the tumblehome changes direction right in the middle of these pieces.My plan is to make and bend the sections overlength and add the hooked scarph joints to the ends a little later.
I have started at the bow,a paper template was made for the shape and pieces cut to suit oversize in height and length.The top edge cannot be accurately established until the deck beams are dry fitted and the hull cutouts used as a reference.The angle of cut of the top edge also changes massively at the bow as the profile is in effect twisted.
I soaked the piece to be bent for three hours in water,then this was placed in the kettle and boiled up.The strip was first worked in my fingers to ease the bending process.The strip was then clamped to the inside of the hull and left for 3 days!!!!.Upon removal absolutely no spring back was experienced.The final job for now was to dish the matting face to suit the tumblehome.
The second one is now clamped in place and is resting for it's 3 days I will continue with something else for the rest of the weekend
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Eamonn,you ask the million dollar question.I have not seen substantiated information about RN vessels of my chosen periods that say either way.The model I mentioned shows to me there is a good possibility they followed the same practice.Interestingly,Michael (md1400s) has just posted some excellent pics of Vasa's gunports featuring the same details.
Basically,aesthetically they add a great deal and my using the NMM model argument as my justification should keep the judges happy
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

The link was Dr Mike's work.His Rivoli ones are even nicer,actual rounded nail heads and made in silver against boxwood.I would have had to delve deep into his build log to find that one.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Keith
Thank you very much and yes it is Roma's model I am referring.I will try both single and double fixings on a scrap 'mock up'.I think many may realise I am borderline certifiable     .
I have two options with shaping.One is to sand the curved profile,but I would much rather be able to thin the grating enough to enable me to shape the piece by water application.This is the reason for the thinned varnish,to reinforce around the holes to allow removal of further material by sanding.
The nailed gunport lids is something I will touch on later in this build as I intend to open a 'can of worms' regarding history.It has generally been accepted this was a French practice,however there is a sectional model of a gun position from Royal William that was in the NMM.This dates to the time of the vessel and the 'sea of nails' can be made out beneath the paint .I shall be adopting this on both Mordaunt and Royal William.This is what I am hoping to achieve with copper
http://www.shipmodels.com.ua/images/models/le_ambiteux/22_b.jpg
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Great work Bob,she is looking fantastic!!!! To be frank,I am using the like button more often as I am struggling to find alternative superlatives
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Keith
Thank you very much and yes it is Roma's model I am referring.I will try both single and double fixings on a scrap 'mock up'.I think many may realise I am borderline certifiable     .
I have two options with shaping.One is to sand the curved profile,but I would much rather be able to thin the grating enough to enable me to shape the piece by water application.This is the reason for the thinned varnish,to reinforce around the holes to allow removal of further material by sanding.
The nailed gunport lids is something I will touch on later in this build as I intend to open a 'can of worms' regarding history.It has generally been accepted this was a French practice,however there is a sectional model of a gun position from Royal William that was in the NMM.This dates to the time of the vessel and the 'sea of nails' can be made out beneath the paint .I shall be adopting this on both Mordaunt and Royal William.This is what I am hoping to achieve with copper
http://www.shipmodels.com.ua/images/models/le_ambiteux/22_b.jpg
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

A small,but possibly useful update Work has stopped on my deck 'treenailing' as I have now been waiting a week for some more drillbits to arrive
I have decided to start producing the deck clamps 'in the rough'.These are made from 3mm thick pear sheet and spiled,profiled and prebent where necessary to conform to the inside of the hull.This is not helped by the fact that the tumblehome changes direction right in the middle of these pieces.My plan is to make and bend the sections overlength and add the hooked scarph joints to the ends a little later.
I have started at the bow,a paper template was made for the shape and pieces cut to suit oversize in height and length.The top edge cannot be accurately established until the deck beams are dry fitted and the hull cutouts used as a reference.The angle of cut of the top edge also changes massively at the bow as the profile is in effect twisted.
I soaked the piece to be bent for three hours in water,then this was placed in the kettle and boiled up.The strip was first worked in my fingers to ease the bending process.The strip was then clamped to the inside of the hull and left for 3 days!!!!.Upon removal absolutely no spring back was experienced.The final job for now was to dish the matting face to suit the tumblehome.
The second one is now clamped in place and is resting for it's 3 days I will continue with something else for the rest of the weekend
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel