NMBROOK

Just a small update.Work is progressing well on the pediment carvings,but as they are only 6mmx8mm I gave up trying to take a decent picture.I have now fitted the first and the autofocus on the iphone works now the carving is fitted to the hull.I am actually up to 5 out of 6, but because I am putting two coats of varnish and then leaving 24 hours before fitting,it will be a couple of days before they are all fitted.
Kind Regards Nigel

I have fitted the grated deck to the prow with epoxy and a few brass dowels in key positions.
Kind Regards Nigel

I have fitted the carving.I have used aluminium tube 8mm long to replicate the lead lining that was used in the hawse holes.The bores have been countersunk to remove the corner.On to the other side now
Kind Regards Nigel

I have to admit my patience has been stretched several times working on the prow deck.I have had numerous pieces filed in the 'recycling section' and have had to remake them.I feel I am on the home straight now,but I can't believe how long it is taking.I include some pics of as it is today.The gratings are caldercraft 1mm ones as small children could fall through the ones supplied.
Kind Regards Nigel

I have nearly finished all the treenailing on the starboard side.I decided to use 0.5mm copper for the mainwales.Now as a break I decided to start work on the beakhead bulkhead.In the deagostini partwork,this is almost identical to Sergals offering.As I am modifying this model to represent the Vandevelde artworks, I decided this was best scratchbuilt.I came up with a design that incorparates the uprights for the railings for strength,as the majority of the rigging is tied off to these railings.I made three limewood formers and notched these to take the boxwood uprights.This was then glued together on a sheet of glass to ensure flatness.The front face was skinned in two laminations of 0.8mm ply and then planked with black boxwood strips I have obtained from a marqeuetry supplier.After gluing braces into the forecastle area,I removed the majority of the original bulkhead.The planking at the forecastle was slimmed down to 1mm thick from the inside.To the inside of this I laminated some more 0.8mm ply.This strengthens this area and forms a base for the uprights at the sides of the forecastle.I then mortised the remains of the old bulkhead and epoxied in the corner uprights.At the moment all the uprights are left way overlength and the new bulkhead's sides will be trimmed flush to the hull when this is bonded in place.I am going to detail this bulkhead before I actually bond it in place.
Kind Regards Nigel

Hello Mates,
 
I think that I'm becoming boring for some of you here, BUT I think that I have resolved the weather deck cannon carriage issues.
 
1)  reduced their length front and rear
2)  lowered and deepened the upper groove, in which the cannons pivot
3)  "tucked in" the wheels a bit closer to the under frame. Not right I know !!
4) will install two smaller guns on each side towards the stern, and built four smaller carriages.
 
 
A BIG thanks to Nigel, and to B.E. (got an email but your quote did not post?) Both of you, as usual were very kind in helping me. Also thanks to all of the kind folks who drop in, click or just look in -- Thanks so much (:-)
 
So it should work out. I won't post any more silly cannon issues until they are set for metal bits, wheels, and installation. Though as I have mentioned I know that these cannons are not "Vasa" types nor the correct lengths. But they look a heck of a lot better than kit included generic cannons IMO.
 
Regards,
 
MIchael

Cheers mate! I really need to learn to recognice kinds of wood.
 
 
/Matti

Nice carving work mate!One slip with the knife and he would have been a she   If it is Obechi,then very well done,this stuff whilst hard,is also very splintery.
 
Kind Regard
 
Nigel

Nice carving work mate!One slip with the knife and he would have been a she   If it is Obechi,then very well done,this stuff whilst hard,is also very splintery.
 
Kind Regard
 
Nigel

Thank you both!
 
Steve, yeah.  Especially when males often where sculpted like this in the 17th century:
 

 
/Matti
 
 

The two Herakles sculptures are not included in the BB kit. I want to try and carve them. The first one had the face getting lose, so I had to start over. I'm not sure the wood is obechi. It's more brown, a little harder and when I put it in boiling water it doesnt smell bad at all. The obechi planks used for the hull smelled like moose fart when they go wet. It could be a different wood then listed, or a missread on my part.
 
Anyways, here is the first one. Seems Mr Hercules forgot his pants, but at least he remembered his lion hat.
 



 
 
/Matti
 
 
 

Dear Sjors,
I know, you are making fun of me....
Creating crew members in this amount would take several years of difficult work. But one Nelson maybe could be possible. I usually make one figure about 1-2 days.

I love watching your beautiful work on wooden models, it is a great inspiration and pleasure for me.

In April I am going to start other projects - IJN Yamato 1:350 and then USS Missouri also in 1:350 scale ( Tamiya manufacturer). And there I will use some photoetched parts , crew members included.
 
Best regards
Doris

Other pics at daylight:





 
 

Hello dear friends,

thank you very much for you kind words, comments and support, that is a great honor and pleasure for me.

It is also a challenge for me to keep up my work to be worthy of your praise. I believe that it is always possible to make things better. For example I have improved some details on the figures (I adapted the feet or changed the shape of officer´s hat .....).
 
 
The crew is hand made from clay/sculpey by my own, all figures are made exactly and in a scale, how I need.
 
 
 
Wow,  only 300 men? Oh, I understand - the others will be hidden inside of the ship, right?
 
***********
During the weekend I finished another seaman and also tackles at one of the cannons. I tried to capture the moment, when both seamen are waiting to the lieutenant command to manipulate the cannon.
 
Here are some pics so please enjoy them.
 






 





 
 
Kind regards
Doris

Absolutely inspirational work Doris !!!I really wouldn't know where to begin making figures like that.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Glad to see you managed to bring the keel back straight Wayne  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Well, I have certainly been remiss in updating this!  Yes, the repairs were successful.  You may recall that I had a problem with the bulkhead former being less than flat/straight.
 

 
Based on the advice provided, I widened the holes that the supporting dowels passed through, as well as slightly thinning the dowels.  It isn't particularly attractive, but will be planked over fully so not visible.  Important thing is the repair worked.
 

 
Next step was to clamp the keel thingy between two pieces of steel for about 3 days (arbitraty - had to go on a business trip so let it sit for the duration)
 

 

 
After removing the clamps and metal, the former is nearly flat.
 

 
 
While I haven't gotten a great deal done, have not been totally idle.  In the above you can see the supports for the garboard plank have been installed and shaped.  In addition, #1 son has started to work on preparing the stern and quarter galleys for painting and installation. 
 

 

 

 
While he is working on that, I have been pondering the planking of this beastie and planning the approach. 
 
It appears that the first plank will be about at the level of the deck and follow it toward the stern, with a slight rise in the bow.
 

 
First plank piece has been bent to shape, now getting ready to cross check between sides and take the plunge of putting glue to wood.
 
Until next time,

Top masts and topgallant masts are completed.

Ok then,I thought I would take the opportunity of waiting for glue to dry and upload some more pics.
I was not happy with my original strategy for the topsides as I thought in the long run it would be more work.The tops of the bulkheads have been replaced with solid Pear to a more authentic profile.These can be integrated in the topside framing detail,whereas the ply would have needed replacing later.The ply deck beams were inconsequential,I only left them in place as temporary braces.An authentic deck construction will be used gun deck upwards when I get to that stage.These pear extensions have been fitted with brass dowels epoxied in.The extensions have also been tweeked to allow for single planking.The remaining section of the bulkheads have been 'banded' with 1.5mm lime strip to compensate for single planking.I have incorporated a small section of orlop deck in front of the mizzen step as a ladder runs down here.There is also one right at the bow which will result in a significant amount of work in this area.I am leaving this until the 'donkey' work is complete on the rest of the hull as it will involve removing considerable amounts of material from the false keel.As you may have noticed the lower hull is filled with limewood.This is to provide substantial support to the single planking and is a good aid as this is one of the most complex shaped hulls I have worked on.The area where the pear frames meet the deck is a crucial point.The sheer on the outer edge has to be perfect as everything will be measured from here.This is the reason for setting 6mm lime sections in around the perimeter.It ensures the ply subdeck will conform to exactly the right profile.One section is clamped in place while the glue dries.I have clamps ranging from 20p up to £95 but sometimes the easiest solutions are the best    
Kind Regards Nigel

The knightheads look fabulous in position mate   She is really starting to come 'alive' now
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I've been continuing with work on the bow end of the gun deck. Completed and installed are the fore jeer bitts and the fore topsail sheet bitts. These were made from boxwood strip with the sheaves "faked" in the same way that I did the bulwark sheaves ( two drilled holes with a scored line between them, blackened with a marker). I also made and installed the fore mast wedges. This was done with a single piece with the wedge lines marked in.
 
I then made up the base for the stove. This was done as discussed in the various recent posts. A metal base plate resting on wooden beams, set in a metal tray with a shallow lip. The parts were made of boxwood, with the beams left natural and the metal parts painted black. This was installed but the stove was stlll left off, although it's position, like that of the bitts , was determined by temporary fitting of the forecastle deck beams.
 
Lastly, I ran the anchor cable from the hawse holes back along the deck and around the riding bitts.With the exception of mounting the stove, this concluded the work under the forecastle deck. I am now working on the forecastle deck framing and will finish that before moving back along the gun deck.
 
By the way, I've noticed that some of the earlier posted photos in the log have now disappeared. Does anyone know how to retrieve them?
 
Bob
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks mate! I found a piece of wood I bought at the local hobby shop a while back and thought it could be lemon (I have a hard time to recognize wood). I gave it a go trying to make a sculpture, but it didn't work at all, so it must have been something else. It's pretty hard and good for details, but it turned out to break easily, so after a few hours work, the face broke off.
 
Ps. Weird, couple of posts have disappeared...
 
 
/Matti

Nigel,
 
Yes I did misunderstand. Thanks for the input input Well, for the four most rearward cannons, so be it. It seems as though, however, that I may not be the only Vasa kit builder with this dilemma irrespective of manufacturer.
 
So this issue is still to be resolved, and is a work in mental progress. I may opt for those smaller guns, and build small carriages. At this point I remain irritated, and may move on to an other area.
 
Also, when I look at photos of the 1/10th, that has some very long weather deck guns, It would seem to be a problem for them as well? As always thanks for your sage input.
 
Speaking of guns I finally received those four stern swivel guns that I had ordered. I may segue and install those in the interim. A nice part of this hobby; One can meander all over the place, exclusive of when it comes the time to rig. That needs to be specifically ordered.
 
 
Cheers,
 
Michael

Nigel,
 
Thanks for the clarification, and the information.  
 
I will follow your advice and assume 8mm as "enough scaled room". I will build two smaller carriages (oversizing them just a tad) and then position them at those last positions on each side of the weather deck, mounted with smaller cannons.
 
The larger guns just won't work, even with the Corel included smaller carriages. So a custom approach would have been needed in any case. The second pic. has an 8mm reference piece of wood.
 
As usual an always big thanks for your active visits, and suggestions to my build log, very kind of you.
 
Cheers,
 
Michael

Small update. I had lots of work this week, but had time to mount the knights.
 
First two reference pictures of the real ones:
 

 

 
And here are how mine turned out:
 

 

 
 
/Matti