NMBROOK

Quite simply outstanding Michael    
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Stunning work Mark!!!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Stunning work Mark!!!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thanks Edwin!
 
A little more progress to report. The lower windows are made up of 6 pieces. After drilling & filing out the window areas I CAREFULLY bent the pieces to fit. Then I painted the window frames white,the surrounding areas with Vallejo light sea blue,& the columns gold. After gluing them in place I think they look ok. I will use the liquid window maker to simulate the glass after all the glue is dry. The windows across the back slant outward pretty close to what the plans show. The joints between the windows fit good,so I didn`t need to use any filler - just a couple of paint spots to touch up.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Mark
 
 

Hi all thanks for looking in. Progress has been slow due to outdoor activities but I did manage to get the transom support finished.Now on to the lower row of windows.
 

 

 

 
Mark

Hello my friends!
 
It´s time for a new update!
 
Last time, I asked myself, whether I should start to plank the deck or finish to plank the hull. I decided to first plank the hull. Unfortunately I had some problems to get new wood stripes. This is why I changed my mind and start to plank the deck. 
 
I knew that it would not be easy to do, because this time I first built the gratings on the deck. In fact, it took my much longer to plank the deck. But I think I managed it quite well and I am glad to say, that I am happy with the result.
 
As you can see in my pictures, I used my "old" technic. That means I first lay the wood stripes with a little slit between them. Then I fill the stripes with my black wood filler. After scraping and sanding the planks I seal them with varnish. 
 
Now I start to finish the hull planking!
 
Greetings and best wishes to all of you!
 
- Heinz -
 

Nigel - thanks so much for your kind post and continued interest in following along. This build has been improved by following, and learning from some of your excellent ideas - (:-)
 
Frank -  As always thank (:-) PS: as you know your Alert is so beautiful 
 
And thanks mates for the kind "likes" and also just dropping by.
 
Cheers,

After experimentation and actually using this technique on my Mordaunt build,I decided I would post a small tutorial of this system I developed due to the interest it caused.
Whilst I am not reinventing the wheel,this is a variation I adopted on the common method of using black paper.There are disadvantages with using black paper,firstly,that it reduces the glue penetration in a joint and secondly,it can appear too thick at the smaller scales.Some may say,the strength is not an issue for planking on a false deck,fair point,but I wanted a system that could be used for all joints where some caulking or similar would be used.This would include scarph joints in the keel where strength is important.
There are many similarities in techniques between using paper and tissue,but there are small differences caused by the delicate nature of the tissue.
This is a pic of the lower gun deck on Mordaunt using this technique.The timber is Pear and the planks are 6mm wide max(the planking is tapered)

To demonstrate the technique,I will be planking a small deck section that goes under the main deck hatches on Norske Love.This piece doubles up as part of the structure and is made from 6mm birch ply.No camber is incorporated as this will be unnoticeable as the only real view is through a companionway.It does have some shear and this is conveniently catered for by the bow the ply has attained,being stood in the corner of the workshop for several months.
The planks are cut from 3mm boxwood sheet.Cutting from the edge of the sheet,using the thickness as the plank width,helps maintain consistency.I cut the planks @1.5mm thick.To me this is less important as the deck will be scraped/sanded smooth.All gluing is done using Deluxe Materials Aliphatic Resin.The black tissue paper is acid free and bleed resistant.I obtained mine from WHSmith in the UK and can be found in the present wrapping section.

A section of tissue was placed on a small piece of clean glass.Glue was added to one side and one end of the plank.The plank is placed edge down on the tissue,ensuring the tissue develops no creases and the plank is firmly down on the glass.I then slice the tissue with a new scalpel blade to form a 'finger' that can be curled up on the plank end.The process is repeated until you have a good quantity of planks 'edged'.
]
When the glue goes clear,but not fully set,slice through the paper between the planks.The individual planks will simply break off the glass with a little twisting pressure.The tissue should remain intact on the plank.Whilst the glue is still in the 'green' stage (a bit like cheese as it hasn't fully hardened),carefully trim the tissue flush with the plank faces.Keep the scalpel blade cutting toward the plank,not away as this can drag pieces of tissue off the edge.You can wait until the glue has hardened overnight,but I found this much harder and more time consuming.

Lay the planks in a conventional manner,ensuring to keep the tissue covered faces going the same way.I brush over the surface with a small wetted paintbrush.This consolidated any glue that has oozed out and is added insurance against the tissue dragging with the sanding and scraping.

 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Quite simply outstanding Michael    
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Kevin, So nice of you to spend your lunch break here. I'm very appreciative. Thank You indeed.
 
Thanks Backer, LevDavidovic, and Woodo in choosing to follow along as well. I appreciate the courtesy on your parts. Welcome to the shipyard. Though you may turn "grey" before its launched for its sinking (:-)
 
=====================
 
Not to "beat a dead horse", but (:-) after my last post regarding the knightshead railings without pin holes, I got curious about why I decided to do them that way. Well going over some photos gave me the answer. 
 
I assumed that the photo below were actual salvaged original parts (they certainly look it). They had no indications of pin holes.
 
I also used this photo for help in adding a single anchor cathead that I mounted on the port side. Its port anchor will be attached later on.
 

Hi Mates,
 
Frank, thank for your comments.
 
Thanks for likes, and dropping by (:-)
 
A few added small time consuming details, as I want to make sure that all needed items are in place before I attach the mainmast shrouds to their deadeyes.
 
Turns out that the pin rails that I had located at the quarterdeck were in error (first early photo). Fred Hocker said, “we got that wrong, those pin rails were added by mistake, it should have been kevels”
 
So pulled them out-did leave some scaring, and then put together a kevel for each side.

 
Used black nylon fishing line so simulate the four mounting cleats.
 

 
Attached the served rope around the mainmast along with the triple pulley. Added a rope trim at the mast base.

 
Made up some single blocks for drilling into deck.

 
Changed the attaching rope to the box for the capstan winding bars. (Though I think their shapes and lengths are amiss)

 
Next need to;
 
Tidy up carriage ropes
Drill vertical holes for upper railing braces
Drill more holes for newly needed belaying pin locations
Make six fiddle blocks and shrouds for main mast stay.
 
Then I can proceed with the 18 shroud attachments.
 
Cheers,
 
Michael
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks Ferit, 
 
Will follow the 1/10th
 
Looked at, and tried to make a couple of blocks from scratch to better match the longer and thinner ones as seen on the 1/10th photo just below.
 
Too much work, so took the kit block; minor reshape, better articulated the “pulley” areas, and added some black bands. Along with a second hole drilled to simulate the top lateral pulley.
 
Those black bands I had mentioned in a previous post – they were from a car model. They were self- adhesive vinyl trim from an F40.
 
Cut the strips to size, and then coated the block with clear flat gloss to “lock” the strips into place.
 
Michael

Hi Mates,
 
Thanks for the likes and the comments
 
Ferit, yes this bit is somewhat "not clear". The 1/10th and the museum's differ. I think that the museum just did a plain single wrap just for the visitor visuals. I then also think that the 1/10th builders decided to execute a more accurate representation of the actual block wrap. ??
 
In any case, I will use the 1/10th as my guide. I will, as I did for the mast rope wraps, use cleats to anchor the two ends of the ropes.
 
Though I also noticed in the 1/10th photo, (just below) - that there seems to be two versions of how the block was attached to the mast. 1) the photo you highlighted. and 2) the other having a loop, then a second rope used for the wrap. Though bothe photos seem to be taken at diff. build stages.
 
I think that I will use two simple cleats and just move on (:-) but, then I'm always changing my mind about things ha ha 
 
MIchael
 

A huge congratulations Daniel I am certain that with Mamoli's choice of some not to common subjects coupled with your great kit design ability,the models will be great sellers
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

A huge congratulations Daniel I am certain that with Mamoli's choice of some not to common subjects coupled with your great kit design ability,the models will be great sellers
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

A huge congratulations Daniel I am certain that with Mamoli's choice of some not to common subjects coupled with your great kit design ability,the models will be great sellers
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Asked for some samples of wood (Pear and Cherry) from the thewoodrack in the UK. Decent sized samples arrived quickly so I bit the bullet and ordered some Cherry. I preferred the colour althought it was slightly harder to work than the Pear.
 
Anyway pleasant enough transaction and the wood arrived promptly (ordered Friday PM, arrived Tuesday AM) and the purchased wood matched the sample. 
 
Here is a picture
 

 
Genarally happy (apart from the cost) but I'll let you make your own mind up about the quality because it's the first time I have used non kit wood.
       

The first of two cat heads to cap the end over the sheaves.
 

 
More to follow..........

Hi Mates,
 
Have not posted in a while, Admiral has had, it seems like a book of honey do lists. So, in between, have been doing various detail bits before attaching the lower main shrouds.
 
Put together the rope knighthead that sits below in the upper gun-deck, along with its ropes, and block (thinking of re-doing that particular triple violin block to look more like that from the 1/10th) in the photo. Hmmmm??
 
==================
 
Then worked on a kit block that needed some plastic surgery before being wrapped around the lower mainmast
================
 
Finished the main lower platform. I’m very happy with how the lower main mast came out - bit-by-bit moving forward.
 
To be continued…
 
Thanks as always for all of the nice thoughts, likes and just looking…
 
Michael

 
 
 
 

I was wondering if they could be an early form of bilge keel?
David B

Both sides planked and smooting them is in progress. Soon I can start on the gunports.

Ahoy Mates
 
I drill out the hole then fill it with colored Titebond. I use a modified Chuck Passaro way. I color the Titebond with enamel paint-Modelmaster's and have no problems. I drill out the holes after the planking has been Dullcoted first. That seals the wood surface,which makes it easy to remove the excess glue-paint off the surface. I use the end of a xacto blade to force the mixture into the drilled hole leaving a small amount above the surface.
 
You let it harden up for about ten minutes-NO LONGER,then file off the surface flush with the planks. Then repeat if the glue mix has shrunk into the hole.
 
Try it out and see if you like it. I tried using water based paint to color the glue with,but it had a chemical reaction with the Titebond and gelled up the mix. I have used it on my Mary Rose build as the photo shows. I had to try out the color mix,after I sanded them down smooth I coated over with Dullcote,and it darkens them up a little. You just have to find out the right combination.
 
If you let the glue mix dry more than a couple of hours or overnight,it's very hard to sand off the planks,even with the planks having been Dullcoted. The Dullcoted planks also allow the hole edges to be sharp edged without any burrs like uncoated wood does. The planking is boxwood and swiss pear.
 
Try it out and see if you like it.
 
Just another way of doing things.
Keith

While contemplating the arrangement and spacing of the catheads and whether or not to add two more ports to the bulkhead I put my attention to carving a head for one of the spaces below the fleur-de-lies.
 
The rough out of the carving.
 

 
More of the detail exposed.
 

 
Completed and ready for mounting.
 

 
More to follow................
 
 

The bulkhead with two of the four animal heads mounted below the cannon ports.
 

 
More to follow..........
Bill

Hi Dave
 
I ordered the widest sheets of Pear available (75mm) for Nuestra.You can then 'nest'the shaped planks side by side with a small gap to save material.My second planking is only 4mm max wide on Nuestra,but the last one I cut for the bow is probably 40mm wide across the corners!!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel