ca.shipwright

You could make and fit the hammock rails, including any mounting holes, then put them on when you feel comfortable.  Keep them in mind as you progress with the rigging, though.
Yes, the plans aren't simple, but they are fairly complete.  You will be recreating the replica.  If you want to produce a period rigging plan, there will be much research ahead.

Jesse,
I used to do furniture building and other macro wood projects. I made 3 foot blanket chest with hand cut dovetails.  A most rewarding project for my wife. I also find the Dremel to "strong" for freehand use. I found more use for it mounted in a drill press or some other contraption.
 
Regards

Hi Mindi,
 
Don't cut yourself short. Your modeling skills are wonderful as exhibited by your work on the Endeavour.
 
Regards

Hi E.J.
Your La Couronne is coming out great. I have this ship and I may put it in the ways next, after I complete the Endeavour.
 
As for expensive, it's relative. You buy a kit for oh, $500. Then you spend half again to build it. Now were up to $750. Just for the h..l of it, buy $250 of new tools- you know  gotta have 'em. So now were up to the magic number, $1000. So off we go, and, in 2 or 3 years or 2-3000 hours later we finish the kit.  I just don't know many things I can do for 50 cents an hour.
 
Please chime in with comments if you care to. I have an Endeavour build log and a Sultana build log.
 
Regards,

Hi E.J.
Your La Couronne is coming out great. I have this ship and I may put it in the ways next, after I complete the Endeavour.
 
As for expensive, it's relative. You buy a kit for oh, $500. Then you spend half again to build it. Now were up to $750. Just for the h..l of it, buy $250 of new tools- you know  gotta have 'em. So now were up to the magic number, $1000. So off we go, and, in 2 or 3 years or 2-3000 hours later we finish the kit.  I just don't know many things I can do for 50 cents an hour.
 
Please chime in with comments if you care to. I have an Endeavour build log and a Sultana build log.
 
Regards,

Greetings again,
 
A lot of progress to report since the last post. I have finished the hull with the exception of the 3 large port covers (3 each P&S).
All of the deck furniture, pin rails, gangway stairs, rubbing boards, light and air port covers have all been installed. The paint has been tidied up. This appears to be an ongoing project. A coat of  Wipe on Poly applied to everything above the wales.
 
I am thinking about stringing all of the chain plate parts on a thin line and spray painting them with Model Master flat black aerosol. I don't know how this will work for the britainia metal. Any ideas would be welcome.
 
It was a very good week. I even figured out how to turn the pictures right side up- no more having to stand on your head.
 
Photos to follow
 
Looks like I have some more tidying up to do.
 
Regards

Greetings everyone,
 
Some progress to report, finally. Built and installed most of the deck furniture. Left to go are the pumps and the bumpkins. The hatches, cat heads, skylight, windlass, swivel gun stocks, rudder, knightheads and gangway ladders. The windlass is an abbreviated version. I could not figure out how to cut the square holes. When I laid all of the deck furniture out, they didn't want to fit. It appears that my afterdeck is too short, I can't find the reason. If I have to, I will leave out a hatch just aft of the main mast.
 
This is what happens when you bounce back and forth between two sets of plans- Corel and AOS. When will I ever learn!!!!!!!!!
 
There appears to be an asymmetry in the foredeck, The ships bell doesn't mount centered- a little to starboard.
 
This journey began as a replica of HMB Endeavour, it progressed to a Corel "kit bash", now it will wind up as a representation of a ship that sailed during that period. As Dirty Harry (Clint Eastwood) said, "a man's go to know his limitations." I am rapidly learning mine.
 
Next up will be the dreaded chain plates and dead eyes on the hull, using the long gun assembly as breaks, followed by beginning the masts and bowsprit.
 
I have now idea what happened with photos 2, 3 and 4. I know I didn't stand on my head.
 
photos follow
 
Regards,

Greetings again,
 
A lot of progress to report since the last post. I have finished the hull with the exception of the 3 large port covers (3 each P&S).
All of the deck furniture, pin rails, gangway stairs, rubbing boards, light and air port covers have all been installed. The paint has been tidied up. This appears to be an ongoing project. A coat of  Wipe on Poly applied to everything above the wales.
 
I am thinking about stringing all of the chain plate parts on a thin line and spray painting them with Model Master flat black aerosol. I don't know how this will work for the britainia metal. Any ideas would be welcome.
 
It was a very good week. I even figured out how to turn the pictures right side up- no more having to stand on your head.
 
Photos to follow
 
Looks like I have some more tidying up to do.
 
Regards

Two items that I have found useful.
1st is a rollerball paper cutter. It will cut strips down to 1 mm. The scale is too far away from the blade, so I put on a fence using masking tape. Worked like a charm.
The second item is an x-y table that mounted on my Dremel Drill press. Works great for drilling a straight series of holes.
Inexpensive. About $40 from eBay in China.
 
Photos attached

Greetings,
 
Several years ago I bought the Model Shipways Sultana. I butchered the first hull and Model Shipways was nice enough to send me another gratis. I proceeded to butcher that hull as well So, the Sultana went on the shelf to fight with me another day.
 
Then I went into plank on frame construction and am having a ball. I am building HMB Endeavour, 1:60, by Corel. I have a log ongoing here. While perusing the Model Ship Builder site, I discovered Charlie Zardov’s Sultana log. He is doing a beautiful job. I also found Chuck Passaro’s practicum. The juices started to flow , and, I needed a break from the masting and rigging of Eneadvour. But, I just couldn’t get myself to ask MS for another hull. So, I decided to build the hull from scratch out of a block of bass wood. As Jack Nicholson said in the movie As Good as it Gets, “I know I can do this”.
 
Now we begin: Since I had all the templates cut from file folders from the previous attempts, I had a nice head start. I laid out the profile view and the deck plan on the block, as well as marking the center line on all 4 surfaces and the station lines. I cut out the profile first so I would have a flat surface (keel to be) to cut out the deck plan. The band saw did a very nice job.
 
The next step was to locate the top of deck line. There is really only one reference point that is reliable for measuring  the height of the ship's lines. and that's the keel. By using a combination of the profile view and the inboard bulworks  view, I was able to get the top of the deck line at the edge of the deck. Then measuring the camber drop from the plans and adding this to the edge deck line, I was able to get the top of deck line on the centerline.
 
Now, it’s time to start carving. I am going to start with the area between stations 4 and 6. This is the widest beam and the gentlest curve on the hull so there will be less wood to remove.
 
Some photos below.
 
Also a picture of a homemade mini-lathe using an electric hand drill as the motor and head stock. It works pretty well. Courtesy of U-Tube.
 
 
 
 

Hi E.J.
Your La Couronne is coming out great. I have this ship and I may put it in the ways next, after I complete the Endeavour.
 
As for expensive, it's relative. You buy a kit for oh, $500. Then you spend half again to build it. Now were up to $750. Just for the h..l of it, buy $250 of new tools- you know  gotta have 'em. So now were up to the magic number, $1000. So off we go, and, in 2 or 3 years or 2-3000 hours later we finish the kit.  I just don't know many things I can do for 50 cents an hour.
 
Please chime in with comments if you care to. I have an Endeavour build log and a Sultana build log.
 
Regards,

Hi E.J.
Your La Couronne is coming out great. I have this ship and I may put it in the ways next, after I complete the Endeavour.
 
As for expensive, it's relative. You buy a kit for oh, $500. Then you spend half again to build it. Now were up to $750. Just for the h..l of it, buy $250 of new tools- you know  gotta have 'em. So now were up to the magic number, $1000. So off we go, and, in 2 or 3 years or 2-3000 hours later we finish the kit.  I just don't know many things I can do for 50 cents an hour.
 
Please chime in with comments if you care to. I have an Endeavour build log and a Sultana build log.
 
Regards,

Two items that I have found useful.
1st is a rollerball paper cutter. It will cut strips down to 1 mm. The scale is too far away from the blade, so I put on a fence using masking tape. Worked like a charm.
The second item is an x-y table that mounted on my Dremel Drill press. Works great for drilling a straight series of holes.
Inexpensive. About $40 from eBay in China.
 
Photos attached

Greetings everyone,
 
Some progress to report, finally. Built and installed most of the deck furniture. Left to go are the pumps and the bumpkins. The hatches, cat heads, skylight, windlass, swivel gun stocks, rudder, knightheads and gangway ladders. The windlass is an abbreviated version. I could not figure out how to cut the square holes. When I laid all of the deck furniture out, they didn't want to fit. It appears that my afterdeck is too short, I can't find the reason. If I have to, I will leave out a hatch just aft of the main mast.
 
This is what happens when you bounce back and forth between two sets of plans- Corel and AOS. When will I ever learn!!!!!!!!!
 
There appears to be an asymmetry in the foredeck, The ships bell doesn't mount centered- a little to starboard.
 
This journey began as a replica of HMB Endeavour, it progressed to a Corel "kit bash", now it will wind up as a representation of a ship that sailed during that period. As Dirty Harry (Clint Eastwood) said, "a man's go to know his limitations." I am rapidly learning mine.
 
Next up will be the dreaded chain plates and dead eyes on the hull, using the long gun assembly as breaks, followed by beginning the masts and bowsprit.
 
I have now idea what happened with photos 2, 3 and 4. I know I didn't stand on my head.
 
photos follow
 
Regards,

I am getting ready to put the starboard chain plates on my Endeavour. I took a break after the port side to do some of the masts and bowsprit. I too am getting close to the rigging.
 
Regards

Darrell,
 
I'll give you an alternate solution that may be of use.
 
1. Start with a piece of wood fairly oversized as to what the finished product will be (l x w). If you are making several of this item, the thickness should be that number of the item times 2.
 
2. Drill your hole.
 
3. Finish the outside by sanding, filing or what ever else you usually do.
 
4. Slice off the completed parts like from a loaf of bread.
 
Alternatively, reverse steps 2 and 3.
 
This will give you extra pieces. We all know that many will make it to the dump.
 
There is also a type of drill bit called a brad point bit. This is a wood working bit that has a spike in the tip that will act as a starter and has a more flat angle to prevent rip out. I find that I don't need the as much pressure when I use this bit.
 
 
 
Hope this helps

I am getting ready to put the starboard chain plates on my Endeavour. I took a break after the port side to do some of the masts and bowsprit. I too am getting close to the rigging.
 
Regards

Darrell,
 
I'll give you an alternate solution that may be of use.
 
1. Start with a piece of wood fairly oversized as to what the finished product will be (l x w). If you are making several of this item, the thickness should be that number of the item times 2.
 
2. Drill your hole.
 
3. Finish the outside by sanding, filing or what ever else you usually do.
 
4. Slice off the completed parts like from a loaf of bread.
 
Alternatively, reverse steps 2 and 3.
 
This will give you extra pieces. We all know that many will make it to the dump.
 
There is also a type of drill bit called a brad point bit. This is a wood working bit that has a spike in the tip that will act as a starter and has a more flat angle to prevent rip out. I find that I don't need the as much pressure when I use this bit.
 
 
 
Hope this helps

Dave,
Thanks for answering. Steve's explanation is right on with some great photos to boot. See my response to Steve it you want a chuckle.
 
Regards

I am getting ready to put the starboard chain plates on my Endeavour. I took a break after the port side to do some of the masts and bowsprit. I too am getting close to the rigging.
 
Regards

Darrell,
 
I'll give you an alternate solution that may be of use.
 
1. Start with a piece of wood fairly oversized as to what the finished product will be (l x w). If you are making several of this item, the thickness should be that number of the item times 2.
 
2. Drill your hole.
 
3. Finish the outside by sanding, filing or what ever else you usually do.
 
4. Slice off the completed parts like from a loaf of bread.
 
Alternatively, reverse steps 2 and 3.
 
This will give you extra pieces. We all know that many will make it to the dump.
 
There is also a type of drill bit called a brad point bit. This is a wood working bit that has a spike in the tip that will act as a starter and has a more flat angle to prevent rip out. I find that I don't need the as much pressure when I use this bit.
 
 
 
Hope this helps

Darrell,
 
I'll give you an alternate solution that may be of use.
 
1. Start with a piece of wood fairly oversized as to what the finished product will be (l x w). If you are making several of this item, the thickness should be that number of the item times 2.
 
2. Drill your hole.
 
3. Finish the outside by sanding, filing or what ever else you usually do.
 
4. Slice off the completed parts like from a loaf of bread.
 
Alternatively, reverse steps 2 and 3.
 
This will give you extra pieces. We all know that many will make it to the dump.
 
There is also a type of drill bit called a brad point bit. This is a wood working bit that has a spike in the tip that will act as a starter and has a more flat angle to prevent rip out. I find that I don't need the as much pressure when I use this bit.
 
 
 
Hope this helps

Hi Steve,
 
A most clear explanation. Thank you.
 
I got as far as the bottom section going up through the cap. But what threw me was the bottom of the top mast is also square. How did the hounds get through a small hole pulling it up ? Or, did they put the hounds on after- I think not. It never occured to me to take the simplest solution of making the mast cap hole larger.
 
You gotta love it!
 
Regards

Darrell,
Another way that might work is to strop the deadeye with wire, twisting the tails tight. This wire frame may give the deadeye enough support to prevent breaking while you drill it out.
 
Hope this helps
 
Regards

Darrell,
Another way that might work is to strop the deadeye with wire, twisting the tails tight. This wire frame may give the deadeye enough support to prevent breaking while you drill it out.
 
Hope this helps
 
Regards