lagrayjr

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 220 – Martingale
 
The Martingale, or dolphin striker, was a 17' long, 10" diameter spar that served as a compression member in the truss that included the bowsprit and its stays that attached to points on the hull.  The stiffness provided by this assembly was critical to the support of the foremast from which various stays descended to anchor points or sheaves on the bowsprit.  The "second trim" of the martingale is shown in the first picture on its drawing.
 
 
 
The spar at this stage is a tapered square and not yet cut to length.  Above the center is a slot that will receive a single plate that will be formed into the double iron cleats on either side.  This slot was milled after overall sizing but before any tapering, for reasons described earlier.  The next picture shows trimming the spar to an octagonal shape.
 

 
On this relatively small diameter spar, this trim was done by eye, without scribing guide lines.  The next picture shows the rounded spar with reinforcing bands fitted over the ends.
 

 
These bands were made from copper tube, saving the fitting and soldering used on larger bands.  To fit the diameters on the spar, rings cut from the tube were enlarged as needed using a center-punch as a mandrel as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The rings are sized for a tight, immovable fit on the spar.  The next picture shows a brass plate inserted through the slot in the spar for fitting and so that the outline of the spar could be scribed on the plate.
 

 
The shapes of the cleats were then cut outside of the scribed lines with a jeweler's saw.  The next picture shows an early fit check.
 

 
The next picture shows the finished, blackened plate ready for final fitting into the spar.
 

 
The plate was glued into the spar with CA.  The next picture shows the finished spar except for its top hook.
 
 
 
The larger ring at the bottom was drilled at this stage to accept four eyebolts that will secure two forward stays that anchor on the outer bowsprit and two backstays that anchor on the hull.  These stays, like most standing rigging on the bowsprit, are chain of different sizes.  The last picture shows the martingale hooked to is eyebolt behind the cap.
 

 
The picture also shows iron (copper) banding for the gammoning being fitted over the lower bowsprit and under the figure boards.  A length of chain is shown secured to the forward end of the jibboom during tests of different connection methods.  This is not the final chain.  More on the chain rigging later.
 
 
Ed

Hello friends,
new pictures of the interior of CHEBECE.
Regards
Karl
 
 
T e i l  4

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 219 – Bowsprit Assembly
 
Before assembling the two main spars that make up the bowsprit, I wanted to get as much of the detailing done as possible while the individual spars were still easy to handle and grip.  In the first picture, three of the four sheaves have been made and temporarily fitted into the Jibboom/Flying Jibboom.
 

 
These were turned to the specified sizes in brass and are shown here held in place by lengths of copper wire.  The picture also shows the bands on this spar drilled for eyebolts.  In the next picture, the ironwork and sheaves have been blackened and permanent copper wire bolts have been driven through the spar to hold the sheaves.
 

 
The picture also shows the martingale that will be covered in the next part.  The next picture shows one of the wooden, fore topmast stay cleats being glued to the side of the bowsprit.  The stool for the jibboom may also be seen.
 

 
The jibboom is secured to the bowsprit with a hinged "bale" that surrounds the upper spar.  This is connected to a larger iron band around the bowsprit.  The fabricated ironwork is shown in the next picture.
 

 
The next picture shows both the stool and the bale.
 

 
The lower part of the bowsprit band was drilled and nailed into the bottom of the bowsprit.  As will be seen in the last picture, the underside of this band is hidden over the stem billet.  The next picture shows the assembly fitted out with all required eyebolts.
 

 
Since none of these eyebolts are connected using soldered shackles, all could be permanently secured at this stage.  The method for making these from twisted copper wire was discussed in an earlier post.  The last picture shows the bowsprit temporarily fitted into the hull.
 

 
 
This picture was taken just after finishing the assembly, including the ironwork, with a diluted solution of Tung oil.  The assembly is almost ready for permanent installation.  It will be held down with an iron gammoning strap just forward of the knightheads that will bolt to the stem below the figureheads.
 
The martingale that will be suspended below the bowsprit cap will be covered in the next part.
 
Ed

Hi All,
 
Thanks all for the kind words and encouragement.  Ed - I have to say, the times I didn't follow your advice are the times I sorely regretted it...   Mike Y, you would be interested in the section of Ed's book around quality and setting a standard for your work.  He gives some great thoughts on the subject that I am trying to live by.  For instance - I will never drill a hole that I didn't first mark and pick.  I think its human nature to cut corners at some points.  I certainly have done that at times on this build and regret it.  I am striving to make each piece as perfect as possible.  But even then, there are challenges.  To make one's sword so sharp is to make it dull. 
 
Here are a few photos of the nearly completed hull.   I took these from the deck while on vacation in Northern California.  Yes, I took my ship on vacation and yes, the Admiral did tease me about it. 
 
Another tid bit - Don't be too anxious to remove the frame spacers or cross-spauls.  I spent more time repairing frames and adding new spacers.  I should have just left well enough alone.
 
Thanks for following along.  G

The etching parts for the weather vanes have not yet arrived.
Meanwhile, I continued with the fittings for the topmast caps.
 

.......wow..........mind blown........micro magnificence

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 216 – Bowsprit Cap
 
The bowsprit cap is a heavy balk of timber that is mortised on to the end of the bowsprit to support the jibboom.  It sits vertically, so the mortise for the bowsprit tenon and the round opening for the jibboom must be cut through the cap at a 20 degree angle corresponding to the angle of the bowsprit.  But first the cap must be cut out and the angles of the top and bottom faces shaped.  In the first picture, the outer lines of the shape and the centers of the openings have been laid out on a Castello plank,
 

 
Some additional work, permanent center lines for the openings, for example, is required on the drawing shown in the picture.  Once the overall piece was cut and the rounded ends shaped square on the sander, the beveled ends were sanded off as shown in the next picture.
 

 
This was done with the sander table angled at 20 degrees.  Some hand shaping is required where the straight side meets the curve of the ends to avoid under cutting the straight sides.  The angle of the bevel varies from 20 degrees at the apex to 90 at the side.
 
The cap is surrounded by an iron reinforcing band.  To fit the shape, this must be curved as shown below, so it will lay tightly on the cap when fitted.
 

 
The band may be seen on the drawing.  The copper strip shown in the picture was bent progressively with pliers to the shape shown.  It was then test fitted as shown below, curved for the other end of the cap, and further adjusted until a good fit was achieved.
 

 
After fitting, the band was soldered to form a ring and fit over the cap as shown below.
 

 
The band was then set aside so openings in the cap could be bored using a milling bit.  The mill setup I used is shown in the next picture.
 

 
A dead center has been mounted in the drill chuck to center it over one of the center marks on the piece. This was done before boring each of the two holes.  Two 18" holes were then bored as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The ¼" milling bit scales to 18" at 1:72.  A 3/16" bit would be used at the 1:96 scale.  After boring, the lower hole was filed to a square mortise to fit the bowsprit tenon.  After fitting the tenon, the cap was set up for gluing as shown below.
 

 
The square was used to check the vertical face and the side of the cap when it was glued.  The last picture shows the iron band fitted to the cap and blackened.
 

 
The band was secured using some thin CA, but will be well anchored in position when the rigging eyebolts are added through drilled holes into the cap.
 
Ed

Thank you very much B.E.,
for your very nice compliment, much appreciated, I`m very pleased you followed and liked this heritage liner.
Just finished a nameplate, that will go into the case that will probably begin in the coming week, when I get the glas panes
 
Nils
 

Hello,
the continuation of the report is about the fittings for the topmast caps.
The iron bands must be fitted with bolts and square nuts.

To make this detail with 0.75mm / 0.75mm square nut and a 0.4mm diameter bolt, I chose the following method as shown in the pictures.

 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 213 – Ratlines
 
I decided to do at least the lower ratlines next, mainly so the height of the shroud fairleads can be set and those installed early on.  If I need relief from this repetitive work I can (and probably will) begin other things – like the bowsprit.
 
At 1½", the ratlines are among the smallest lines on the ship.  In diameter they measure about 1/2", converting to about .07" at 1:72 scale.  I am using No. 80 crocheting cotton for these, dyed black with dilute India ink.  The ends of the ratlines have spliced eyes that are lashed to the outer shrouds. Attachment to the inner shrouds is by means of clove hitches in the ratline itself.  The first picture shows eye splices being put into the ends of ratlines.
 

 
One end of the line is first passed through the line with a needle to form a loop, like the one on the left.  This is then pulled tight around a pin, looped over and glued with darkened PVA glue.  The two-faced carpet tape on the vise jaw holds the two legs until the glue has dried.  The splice on the right has been glued.  When dry, the short leg will be cut off flush leaving a simulated eye splice.  Two of these are shown in the next picture.
 

 
The next picture shows the first few foremast ratlines secured.
 

 
After lashing the eye to the aft shroud, clove hitches are used on the next three.  The forward end is then lashed and the eye formed in place as was done above.  In the picture the glue has dried and the excess rope is being sliced off.  Uniform tensioning of these ratlines may take some practice – as can be seen at the left.  The next picture is an ultra-close-up showing the forward lashed eyes and the intermediate clove hitches.
 

 
This picture also shows the lashings on the one of the staves across the shrouds after every five or so shrouds.  This was made by stiffening a larger thread size with glue.  The next picture shows the installation up to the first stave.
 

 
The staves extended forward to the first shroud.  Their purpose was to maintain shroud spacing.  The picture was taken before the ends of the various lashings were trimmed off.  In the last picture these ends have been trimmed.
 

 
The fairleads will be lashed on the inside of the shrouds, just above the lower stave.
 
Ed

Another photo
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 212 – Mizzen Stay
 
Before moving to the mizzen stay I had to replace the aft chain plate on the port side and make and dye some more 3½" lanyard rope.  This went rather quickly and the mizzen shrouds were completed as shown in the first picture.
 

 
The next picture shows the completed mizzen stay.
 

 
The stay is looped over the shrouds at the mizzen top, fed through the lubber's holes on each side and secured with three round seizings.  At the lower end it passes through a bullseye shackled to an eyebolt on the main mast and ends in a thimble secured by another three round seizings.  This is lashed to an eyebolt in the deck.
 
Again, because of the soldered shackle, the eyebolt/bullseye assembly had to be prefabricated.  It was slipped over the stay as shown in the next picture, allowing the lower seizings to be done off the model and avoiding having to pass the leathering through the bullseye.
 

 
The stay is roughly the same size as the shrouds, is served and leathered at the top, and served at the bottom.  The lower seizings have been put on and a temporary thread is attached to secure the bottom while the masthead collar is secured.   The next picture shows that collar.
 

 
 The next picture shows the lower end of the installed stay with the permanent lashing to the deck eyebolt.
 

 
The last step in completing the lower standing rigging was to put leathering on the mainstay legs astride the foremast.  I had forgotten to do this earlier.  The next picture shows this painted wrapping.
 

 
The last picture shows the model at the current state, with all the lower shrouds and stays installed.
 

 
The next step will be to tackle the bowsprit, but I may begin some ratline work to help me spread out that tedious task.  This will also allow me to make and fit the shroud fairleads.
 
 
Ed

Frames assembly and gluing on a flat surface in 3 layers:  a plexiglass sheet, wood glue does not stick well on it and it does preserve the next layer under the paper pattern.
Under a Russian, multi layered. It is difficult to find a large very flat surface made of wood because stability and wood do not go together. A good flat surface need to be made from a harder material like high density plastic, glass or a mineral like table pool table slate or granite flat surface.

Hello,
thanks to all, for your attention. 

After finishing the tops, I continue with the royal masts.
The French Corvette had a weathervane on every royal mast.
Here are some pictures:



Whether this corvette also had lightning conductors is in this context
quite a legitimate question.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 211 – Mizzen Shrouds
 
It has been over two months since the last post on Young America.  At that time I had forecast an interruption in the shop for other work of about two weeks.  So much for project scheduling.  At the end of April, the shop had to be cleared out for some dusty, full-sized woodwork – the restoration of an ornate, rotting garden arbor, construction of a large, paneled garden gate, and the resizing of an old, 3'10" wide bed to a standard single.  This work, plus a number of other things, kept me busy and kept the model safely stored in another room.  I got back to work about a week ago.
 
Over the past week, work has been focused on the lower mizzen mast rigging.  The mizzen shrouds are 8¼" rope.  As with the other standing rigging, I spun this from linen thread – three doubled strands of relatively fine size.  I believe I mentioned earlier that I wanted to avoid getting into a rope making discussion here.  There is much to be said about this subject – from theory to practice to modeling - that I think I will leave to Volume III of the book.  However, I will mention one key aspect – measuring of threads and made rope.  Regardless of the rope making method used, measurements are needed and obtaining consistent, accurate results is difficult.  The method I use is shown in the first picture that shows some mizzen shroud rope diameter being measured.
 
 
 
While I am sure others have used this simple method, I find it to be very consistent and fairly accurate.  Ten turns are wrapped around a dowel, closely spaced.  The width of the turns is then measured as shown and divided by ten to get the rope diameter – in this case .036" – close to the diameter of the 8¼" circumference rope required at 1:72.  
 
Having made the right size rope for the shrouds, it was ink dyed and cut to lengths required for each pair.  These were then served, parceled at the masthead, and seized, as shown in the next picture.
 

 
In the picture the parceling has not yet been "tarred" and the excess seizing thread ends remain.  In the next picture, the ends have been clipped, black acrylic color has been applied to the parceling, and the first pair on the starboard side pushed down over the masthead.
 

 
With all four pairs mounted, thin wood fixtures were made to hold the upper deadeyes for seizing to the shrouds.  This was discussed in an earlier post.  In the next picture the deadeye spacing is being marked on the port fixture.
 

 
The next picture shows all eight deadeyes seized to their shrouds – still mounted on the fixtures.
 

 
Lanyards for these shrouds were 3½" rope – again linen, made from three strands of the finest size.  The next picture shows the deadeyes on the port side threaded up and being tensioned before wrapping and seizing the ends to the lower shrouds.
 

 
Deadeyes were threaded by alternating sides, then given an initial tensioning.  The picture above shows the final tightening after the sheer pole was lashed above the shroud throat seizings.  The two aft lanyards have been wrapped.
 
The last picture shows the lanyards wrapped and seized with their tail ends at the back of the shrouds.
 

 
I made five turns as a standard on the model and tried to make them neat.  In practice these were less aligned and wrapping continued until the rope was used up.
 
The starboard side remains unfinished.  Two reasons: in rotating a deadeye, a chain plate broke and had to be replaced; then I ran out of 3½" rope and will need to make more to finish the last deadeye.  I hope then to move on the mizzen stay.
 
 
Ed

COMPANIONWAYS
 
The 1835/1836 modifications to HMS Terror introduced a new fitting to Royal Navy polar exploration vessels– the hatched companionway. Covered companionways began to replace open ladderways on smaller Royal Navy ships in the late 18th century. However, the special type of hatched companionway associated with Erebus and Terror is rare on Royal Navy plans and models until the middle of the 19th century.
 

The Companionways on HMS Terror
 
The aft companionway of HMS Terror was a simple box-shaped structure, with a large sliding hatch on its roof. To access the ladderway, the crew would slide the hatch back, and then pull open two small starboard-facing doors.  They would then descend the ladderway backwards, pausing midway to close the doors, and then the hatch, behind them.
 
The 1836/1837 Terror profile plan (1) indicates that this companionway could be removed and replaced with a tall winter deckhouse with a standard-sized door (it was apparently shaped like Terror’s water closet). However, pencil marks on these draughts indicate that this special winter coaming was abandoned sometime after Back’s 1836/1837 Arctic voyage.
 
Prior to 1839, there was no raised companionway in the forward part of Terror. Instead, an unusual hinged trapdoor system was used to access the forward ladderway. Curiously, this ladderway was located on the starboard side of the vessel, and not on the midline as was typical. This feature was changed in 1839, and a raised companionway identical in design, but somewhat larger, to Terror’s aft companionway was installed (2).
 
Unlike its aft counterpart, its doors faced port, and it was located just behind the funnel for the ship’s stove.  Its ladderway below it descended just aft of the ship’s stove. This must have been somewhat inconvenient, as using it would have introduced terrible drafts to the lower deck mess and sleeping area during the winter months. 
 
References:
(1) National Maritime Museum ZAZ5672
(2) National Maritime Museum ZAZ5673
(3) National Maritime Museum SLR0715  

The basic components of the companionway were cut
from pear wood stock using my local Library’s laser cutter. 
 

Tracks were added to the roof of the companionway. 
 

Terror’s companionways were very simple box-like structures.
 

I had trouble simulating the bronze tracks with brass sheeting, 
so I opted to use a brass foil product here. 
 

Preparing to cut the grooves in the aft hatch. 
 

The companionways with hatches and tracks 
completed.  
 

The completed forward companionway. 
 

The completed aft companionway. 
 

Mini-Crozier inspects the workmanship. A coat of Minwax 
Wipe-On Poly provides a protective finish. 
 

These structures were neither large nor comfortable. Robustness 
seems to have been the primary design feature. 
 

The 1839 Erebus model at the National Maritime Museum (3)
indicates that the doors had small knobs, which I recreated
using brass pins filed to the correct size. I elected to show
the doors with hidden door hinges (the doors 
swung outwards), which is common on modern 
companionways of the similar design.
 

A WINDOW ON HMS TERROR
 
By 1845, Terror’s stern windows were very different from those Captain John Sheridan gazed through as he bombarded Baltimore in 1814. In 1812, Henry Peake designed a relatively traditional stern gallery for HMS Terror, which included seven stern lights in addition to six windows arranged on her port and starboard quarter galleries. Each of the stern windows had nine panes, while the smaller quarter gallery windows had six panes.
 

Henry Peake's original 1812 design for Terror's stern gallery and quarter galleries. 
NMM, ZAZ5662
 
When Terror was first converted for polar service over 1835 and 1836, its vulnerable quarter galleries (and the water closets they contained) were removed, resulting in a reduction to five stern windows. Contemporary artwork by Owen Stanley indicates that the windows retained their original nine-pane configuration during Back's harrowing Arctic expedition of 1836-1837.
 
 
Terror's stern lights in 1837. Note the cipher and ship's name depicted above the hanging rudder.
 NMM, PAF0275
 
Since the time of Parry’s second Arctic voyage, 24 years previously, polar exploration vessels had been fitted with "double window-frames" (1), and Terror undoubtedly had double windows installed for Back’s 1836 -1837 Arctic voyage. Parry described that during the coldest months, "cork shutters" were inserted between the sashes on HMS Hecla (1), and it is possible that cork shutters were used on Terror’s subsequent polar voyages. 
 
Contemporary images suggest that Terror's stern gallery remained unchanged during the Antarctic expedition of 1839-1843, when Terror was under the command of Francis R.M. Crozier, although the 1839 Terror and Erebus plans indicate that significant changes were made to the great cabin itself. 
 
In the spring of 1845, Terror and Erebus had their sterns dismantled and reconstructed to accommodate large wells needed to raise and lower their new screw propellers. The centre window on the stern of each vessel was removed to make room for the new well. Green-ink annotations on Terror’s 1836 plans show that her stern frames were shifted slightly forward during the 1845 refit. The reasons for such an extensive refit are unclear, but it may have been necessary to redesign the stern framing to accommodate the weight and stress of the new propeller system. 
 
While it appears that the remaining four stern windows were kept (roughly) in their original positions in 1845, the windows themselves were redesigned from a nine-pane to a four-pane configuration. We know this because of a remarkable woodcut of the great cabin of HMS Erebus, which appeared in the May 24th, 1845 issue of the Illustrated London News (2). The accompanying article described that the windows were “double[d]”, similar to those used on Parry’s voyages. Astonishingly, high resolution images of the cabin illustration in the report clearly show the double sashes.
 
Why the stern lights were modified to a four-pane design is unknown, but the woodcut indicates that by 1845 the window muntins were much more robust than those on a typical stern window. A sturdier design might have been thought necessary, after the unprecedented heavy seas and storms Terror and Erebus encountered during their Antarctic expedition.  However, we know that the thickness of the glass was not increased, because window glass recovered from HMS Erebus in 2015 has the same  thickness as that specified on Terror’s (i.e., Belzebub’s) original 1812 building contract (3). 
 
Below, I’ll outline how I have recreated Terror’s windows for my model. Though few pictures have been released, they appear to compare well with the recent Parks Canada images of Terror’s stern. 
 
 
References:
 
(1) Parry, William Edward. 1824. Journal of a Second Voyage for the Discovery of a North-west Passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific: Performed in the Years 1821- 22-23, in His Majesty's Ships Fury and Hecla, Under the Orders of Captain William Edward Parry, R.N., F.R.S., and Commander of the Expedition. London.
 
(2) Departure of the “Erebus” and “Terror” on the Arctic Expedition. Illustrated London News, May 24th, 1845. Volume 6, Page 328.
 
(3) National Maritime Museum, ADT0010
 
 

Construction of the stern windows began with laser cutting the 
sashes from a sheet of Swiss pear. 
 

A bevel was added to each muntin with a hand file. The filed 
windows are on the left, the unfinished windows are on the right. 
 

Comparing progress to the original woodcut.
 

Instead of adding four individual panes, I opted to add a single simulated pane. 
This was achieved by carving out the backside of the windows to 
accept the simulated glass. 
 

The window panes were made from high quality PVC blister packaging material. 
It is crystal clear, resists yellowing, and bonds well with CA glue. The painter's 
tape protects the surface from scratches and permits patterns to be drawn 
on the surface. 
 
 
A beading line of CA was used to glue the panes in place. 
 

Allowing the glue to dry. 
 

A pair of finished windows compared to the woodcut. Note the double 
sashes in the woodcut image. 
 

Gluing the sills to the sashes. These are not the proper configuration, 
but will not be visible on the finished model. 
 

A nickle for scale. 
 

The completed double windows.  
 

A closeup view.
 

The interior panes were sanded to simulate frost (and to prevent a 
view into the interior of the model). 
 

The port stern lights installed between the stern frames. 
 

A view from the interior of the model. The imposing nature of the 
well can be seen here.  
 

Approximating the view from the great cabin 
(as best possible).
 

The completed stern gallery.
 

Mini-Cozier surveys the pack from the comfort of his great cabin.

Hello Albert,
Thanks,
and everyone else for the LIKES.

Meanwhile, I made the futtock shroud plates for the tops of the foremast and the mizzen mast.

 

The difference between the deadeyes of the top of the foremast and that of the mainmast is barely recognizable (0.2 mm), yet it is important to me.
 
The difference between the deadeyes of the top of the foremast and that of the mainmast is barely recognizable (0.2 mm), yet it is important to me.
Furthermore, I produced the royal cross trees for the formast and the mainmast.
I hope the pictures explain everything so far.

 

Build log part 59...
 
Update :
 
for those fellow builders who frequently catching up on the status,.... I put in some overall shots....
The 4 open lifeboats are rigged, they are also equiped with oars (only rudderblades still missing). The two smaller boats will be in the same paint scheme, but without lifelines, as that is too much straining for eyes and hands. The remaining closed boats are waiting for the lifelines to be attached, refer to the pic for one first sample. I decided not to lash on seperate protection covers (canvas)
 
Nils
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

the oars are stored on the oposite side to where passengers would step into the boats
 

The two open boats on the left of the pic have appr. 5 mm less length and a lower sheerboard, they will match in color scheme
The "hard cover" shown here on the sample "closed boat" will be the protection canvas, no seperate lashings under and around the boat.
 
 

 
 

these are the two smaller (shorter) open, also clinkered double ender boats, that fit into the row of 10 boats per ships side with the others. These boats claim to be 1:144 scale, the figurines are 1:160, but I feel they match together perfectly
 
 
 
 

Update...
 
the first open port side boat has been set in place and rigged with the forward pulley. I think I`ll have the two first boats of each side in the open mode, as well as the third boats (also open), but they are a bit smaller, like on the actual ship. The blocks (3mm double sheave ) are out of Chuck`s production, I saved them up at the time he still was producing pear blocks in that size for this application.
All paint touch ups will be done after all the boats are rigged
 
Nils
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Hi All,
 
I'm back!  I took a little break but am now back in the shop and going strong. 
 
530 hours into the journey.  I decided to shift away from the hull work and tackle a little of the inside.  I had several reasons, the real one being that I needed a change of scenery.  That being said, I wanted to stiffen the hull before doing final sanding.  To do that, I laid the keelson, ceiling planks, crutches and breast hooks.  I then built up part of the magazine while I was on a roll.

Ed suggests building the forward magazine while off the model.  I think this was a great idea and it allowed me to work freely at the bench.  At some point, the magazine will be installed, but first I need to lay the orlop deck beams.  There is a critical relationship here that you need to get right.  My version of the magazine has simple detail elements.  I decided not to treenail at the lower depths and decided to simplify the number of beams on the sb side.  This being said, I will increase the detail as I climb.  I enjoyed making the magazine substructure. It was a unique challenge.  And, looks much better to the naked eye - these photos are unforgiving.  I wanted clean detail, but I am not obsessing on my work here.  The black area is simulated charcoal.  I simply took 500 grit wet sandpaper and applied it here.  I doubt you will be able to see it on the finished model, but thought it would be a nice detail to discuss.

The ceiling planks were a special challenge when it came to clamping.  I made great use of the gantry system when securing these planks.  Its amazing how stiff the hull is with these structures in place.  While I would not want to step on the model, it does give you appreciable insight into the durability of the actual ship. 
As I reflect further on building an extreme POF ship, one of the many things I like about it is that you don't simply glue pieces together, but rather think about how they would have worked together on the real ship.  My skills have improved since I have been forced to think differently about the ship.
 
Hope to have more soon!
 
All the best, Gary

Thank you Robin.
 
Here now some pictures with the ship at his final place and with lights on 
In reality the light is not so bright, that comes at the pictures because I had the shutter of the camera open from 1-4 sec. But it's bright enough that you could see most parts inside (also the rest of the dust )
 
Regards,
Siggi

Hello,
 
now it is done, the ship is in his case.
The only thing that is left, is to connect the LED's in front of the ship with the switch and the battery. 
 
Regards,
Siggi

Here I continue the photo documentation to build the mizzen-tops:




 

Tony,
thank you very much,
have not had much time at the table this weekend, but the lifelines are on...
 
Nils