sonicmcdude

Finally a good day.

Once to get lucky and to do something right.

The second rail nearly mounted, and, what a surprise! The lines are parallel !!



What luck! What a joy!!


And that's not all


Finally I succeed to disort strips for rail moldings for stern and them are not cracked ! Never mind that them are 1.5 to 1.5 mm



And it was worth to see Admiral's face when she found me in her kingdom (kitchen) cooking strips


Tomorrow bussines trip again (250+250 km) and I hope that there will be some pictures if I shall have some time to visit Zlatibor Lake

Thanks Augie, Yes the holly, like all the wood from Hobby Mill, is really nice and fun to work with.
 
Thanks Chuck much appreciated.
 
Hi Bob, Thanks and your Essex is coming along very nicely too!
 
I have completed planking half of the gun deck. One plank had to be notched to fit around the hatch.
It doesn’t adhere to planking procedures and it is a little too thin but close enough. There won’t be
any rot issues anyways. At least I hope not!  
 

 

 

 

 
 
The hatch has not beeen glued in place yet as I have to sand and scrape the deck, treenail and seal it.

Thanks Greg. Not much, maybe 1/64”. I always over bend them hoping to
compensate for the spring back.
 
Thanks grant. It’s always fun for me to mix in different woods.
 
I’ve milled all the holly needed for the decking and have started laying them.
Again I am using black paper to simulate the caulking. Hopefully later tonight
I well get to the area around the hatch completed.
 

 

Thanks Anthony!
 
Here is the promised update.

Success! I was able to keep the side pieces in place and then attach the
corner pieces, the correct term is angled bulkhead, but I like corner better.
The biggest problem after getting the length right was using enough glue
to hold the sides together but not gluing the sides to the beams.
 

 

 
Once the glue had set marked the placement of the angled carlings I carefully
removed the assembly. I the placed the angled carlings sanded it down and
then permanently glued the pit assembly in place.
 

 

 

 
 
The deck was sanded smooth and I applied wipe on poly to the side (starboard)
that will not be planked.

Finished the drill today, it is not quite as powerful as i would like but the drill works fine for those very small drills.
 
First picture shows the the additional ball race and flywheel.
 

 
The second shows the second to last sleeve which is the same diameter as the can motor the hole lines up with the locking hole in the flywheel and also the 2x56 set screw. The largest sleeve has a wooden end piece that the wires exit from .
 

 
last one show the # 80 drill and some holes in some boxwood, there is no vibration and it runs soothly.
 

 
All the tubes were assembled with loctite except the solid end brass keeper next to the chuck, which was soldered with soft solder..
 
All in all I am pleased with the salvage.
 
michael

Dear Friends; 
 
Yes, we will drive ourselves crazy trying to find that "right look" at the "right period".  That's not my intent.
 
However, If you use the law of averages, and how the group sees the problem as opposed to the individual, you will arrive at the best possibility.  I use this in my other hobbies, such as ethnic cooking.  I will usually consult 10-15 recipes before usually committing to not one, but my interpretation of all I see.  Same for model ship building.  Many details I've planned to omit, but decided otherwise, (Thanks, Nenad) will be implemented, but many won't.
 
This is a hobby, and the fun is in the whole challenge;  as Nenad says, watching you model grow up, learning, fixing, and the intelligence you gain from the research...
 
Good luck with all the builds...
 
~Bob

Nenad,
 
You may use a brass plate
http://www.rcsrbija.rs/materijali-za-gradnju/ploe
 
and patina (450din)
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.339158562772791.79547.145897172098932&type=1&comment_id=4592749
 
Cheers,
Alex

Because i don't have a lathe, i had to appeal to my friend Dan to make some metal parts
This is the result


 
Start to assemble



 

Maybe this is off topic, but this guy made a mill from scrach and I think is for wax but if you can replace the small motor with a rotary tool is going to be strong enough for wood. Here are some pictures ....

Maybe this is off topic, but this guy made a mill from scrach and I think is for wax but if you can replace the small motor with a rotary tool is going to be strong enough for wood. Here are some pictures ....

I was thinking about how to modify my Proxxon MB 140 drill stand to have a reasonably accurate vertical feed so I could use it as a mill. So I did a web search on 'Proxxon stand modification' and after several pages of results I came across this modification by a guy called Stu who posted it in a Railway Modellers' forum. I asked him for the details, and he very kindly provided the following plan:
 

 
He made his block out of Perspex, but I have never worked with Perspex before, so I thought I'd try it with an old piece of pine that was lying around. This wood one works fine and I thought I'd share the results with the forum because there has been such a lot of interest in mills. However, I have ordered a block of 100mm square Perspex to make another one because I have a feeling the screw threads will last longer.
 
The following is a picture of the original stand before modification:
 

 
The following are the tools I used together with the block of wood ready cut (the very cheap drill stand I used to cut the 20mm and other holes with my large drill is not shown):
 

 
As you will note, this is not an expensive modification once you have the drill stand, tap wrench and spade bit -- all of which would be useful for many other jobs.
 
There are a couple of changes I made to Stu's original plan:
 
1. The tightening bolt at the back is not threaded into the block. Instead I drilled a 6mm hole and it closes with a simple wing nut.
 
2. Rather than driving the 'height' bolt directly on to the top of the stand, I cut off the tip of an old chopstick, put a layer of CA glue on the end to stop it fragmenting when the bolt comes into contact, and use it as a plug in the M5 hole left by the depth stop screw (which is removed when the stand is used as a mill).
 

 
As you will find out when you try this, the dimensions are not critical.
 
The stand's post is 19.8mm, and because the diameter of the flat bit was 20mm, a good slit is needed in the block to give enough clearance for the sides to flex. 2mm is just fine when you put a 6mm hole across it for the M6 bolt with the wing nut. You'll note that the slit I made on the other side of the hole for the stand looks as though it reaches into the hole for the depth bolt. This is actually the bottom end of the circular saw cut, which is much shallower on the other side of the block. When I make the next one out of Perspex I'll file it out instead.
 
I did also buy a shielded ball bearing for the bamboo plug but it works so well without the ball bearing that I'll leave it out until it proves necessary.
 
In practice it seems accurate. One turn of the knob gives a 1mm change in height because the M6 bolt has a thread spacing of 1mm -- so that suits the knob I bought from Maplin very nicely indeed!
 
 

 
I hope this is as useful for others as it has been for me. Once I receive my Perspex block I'll post pictures of that as well.
 
Tony
 
 
 
 

Thank you Michiel.
 
I've been making good progress on the deck framing. It sure helps having cut the parts ahead of time!
 

 

 

 

 
It still will need a good sanding to fair it all up but so far so good!  

OK, here you go Ben and the others who commented on my Hances v1.0 - I've remade the Planksheers and the first Hance using a dark shade of Swiss Pear. I'm much happier about the result - crisper definition and far less chipping out. There are minor irregularities which you can see under high magnification, but to the eye they look pretty good if I say so myself . They will look even better when a finish has been applied.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
  Danny

Hello
Currently designing wrapper rope hand.
Partial elements is made ​​which can be seen in the photographs.
Then we will do the guide and carriage.
 
 
video of preliminary tests:
 



Regards
Romanov

Thank you Frank, John, Pat, Ben and Mark .
 
Pat, the fourth pic in my previous post is as close to the "real" colour of Chuck's rope as I can get it. The others ARE a little paler due to different lighting angles.
 
I've finished Re-Rigging all the guns. To hold the rope coils in place I used a Fabric Setting gel used by seamstresses etc to glue down hems before sewing them. I can't vouch for the longevity of the product for this application, as it washes out with water. I may have to use some dilute PVA at a later stage if it looks like the coils will come undone.
 
The coils are still damp in these pics, and will take a more natural colour when the setting gel dries.
 

 

 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks for looking in, and the kind words John, Michael, Grant, Joe, Nils, Randy, Jeff, Gerty, Ron and Ben - much appreciated .
 
Bulwark Spirketting
 
I've fitted all the Bulwark Spirketting that I intend to do. The Port side is completely covered, and I've fitted half of them to the Starboard side Quarterdeck to cover an error I made very early in the build - about eight of the frame Toptimbers were a couple of millimetres short. I didn't discover this until WELL after the time had passed to correct them .
 

 

 
The piece above the Cathead was rather interesting to make :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Thank you very much my friends.
 
Hi B.E. thanks for the tip. You are right but indeed there are too many dubious points with this ship. Even the belaying pins were most likely not in use at that period. . I've omitted some of them and also reduced the numbers but some of them remained.
As source I've also an article from NRJ and Pastor's AOS "The ships of Christopher Columbus". But I must confess that I've not tried my best.
(I don't remember exactly, I've read somewhere that leech lines do exist before the buntlines. But I should check this)
 
P.S. for the moderator. I've attached some pages from a journal and a book. If there is a problem with the copyright I can delete them.  

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 26 – Forward Half Frames/Ribbands
 
To provide space for work on the forward cant frames, I deferred setting of the remaining half frames.  In the first picture that work is proceeding.
 

 
The next picture shows all of the forward frames installed.
 

 
The sleek forward hull shape is really visible at this stage.  The next picture shows a different perspective.
 

 
And another view.
 

 
At this stage the alignment and spacing of the frames are set by the softwood spacers between each frame about midway between the keel and topside.  More strength is needed for final fairing of the lower hull.  Also, as the above photo shows, there is some irregularity in the line of the toptimbers that needs to be corrected before final fairing.
 
I decided to fair the forward hull before proceeding to the aft frames.  To provide additional strength and align the frame tops I installed temporary “ribbands” on both sides at the height of the planksheer.  I found this a very useful device in constructing Naiad.
 
The next picture shows the starboard ribband being fitted.
 

 
These were made from single 3/16” strips of clear white pine.  One end was boiled to set the curvature and in the above picture is being clamped for drying.  In the next picture installation is proceeding.
 

 
The strips are secured to every frame by short pins through drilled holes.  These are bent over on the inside to pull every frame tightly into the fair line of the ribband.  I cut off the points of the pins before bending to avoid all the scratches I got from these while working inside Naiad.  The holes in the frames will later be used for sheer strake bolts.  The tops of the strips are set at the height of the bottom of the planksheer rail, so these can be used to trim off the tops of the aft upper futtocks.
 
The next picture was taken from above after the strips were installed.
 

 
The center marks on the cross-spales cannot be seen under the thread line.  This is a good thing.  In addition to this centering check, the outside of the ribband was also checked by squaring up from the base drawing.
 
In the next picture I cleared all the clutter from the shipway to focus on the lines of the very sharp forward entry.
 

 
At this stage the frames have only been given the bevel described earlier before they were set.  Some additional sanding to refine the fairness is needed.
 
The model can now be removed from the base and upended for sanding and also for installation of quite a few bolts, especially those holding the half-frames to the deadwood.  These joints are quite weak so the model bolts will have to provide strength.  I will cover this in the next post.
 
Happy Thanksgiving everyone.
 
 
Ed

Sure Bob, any help?
 

 

 
The base is only MDF which I don't much like so I'll replace it when I can. The main column is 20 x 330mm Silver Steel (precision ground rod)

Oh wow this is great! Talking about details this is just awesome!

@ Bob, here is a little observation for you. Columns (pillars) were originally made of 1x1 mm strips, but they are reduced  now to  about 0,5x1 mm and I think this is more in scale. Even better would be 0,5 x 0,5, but this would be sadomasochism  
 
Before second planking, there is , as usual (   ), next challenge and correcting of next mistake
 
(It seems for now that whole my building is made of mistakes and repairing)
 
In Serbia there is proverb, literally " You can not have goat and the money at the same time" . Translated with Google it means "You can not have it both ways" 
 
I am not shame ( that is a lie ) of my mistakes, and I expose them in order to be seen to avoid beginners as me not to run in that smelly and barely passable swamp
 
So, because of mine earlier mistake with to low poop deck and wrong line and angle of it, main successfully  repairing of this mistake lead directly to the abnormal raising and large thickness of the stern, and it seems as elephants back now   
 


 
@ Dognut, do you want to exchange your ice-breaker bow for my elephant stern ?
 
My earlier proud stern made is hidden somewhere inside
 
Good thing is that stern is made of solid wood ... 
 
And a next part of Comedy starts
 
Ah, sanding again ...
 
I can see the future: who/what will be most engaged in shipyard next days
 

Not perfect - but the cheeks are carved and installed...

Hello all!
 
Finally I´ve been able to get a camera ( a 2004 one from my mother). I will put lots of pictures at last!!
 
In the last post all the frames forward from the stern were set but not glued.
 
It took me a while to cut different pieces as spacers to put on the keel. I numbered this chocks because I removed all the frames and glued only some of them aft and the cant frames forward.
 
 
 
I have started sanding both, the aft and fwd. frames. Before starting to sand I reinforced the frames at the ends with some chocks of pine and spacers of the same width like the ones I numbered on the keel. Since there were no frames in the middle of the hull the sanding was easier. The bevel goes pretty steep on those. It is a Good advice that Randy or Bubblehead told to me once. Thanks to them.
 
 
 
I have put lots of chocks between the frames, some a strip of timber, other ones made from a same piece of pine wood cut in half to ensure that in both sides (PS and SB) is the same width.
 
 
 
The handmade sanding blocks were pretty useful. I started with a #3 grit paper. I´ll sand it later with smaller grains. I have glued the paper to the block using “contact glue”. Hope the pic attached will talk by itself. One that has been the best is just an ikea spoon, specially working on the cant frames.
 
 
 
Once the aft frames were much more or less sand I secured the hull adding two 4x4mm beams.
 
Then I have moved to glue all the square frames of the middle. Put the rest of the chocks between the frames and back to sanding again.
 

 

 

 

 
Right now I am cutting the patterns for the hawse pieces and for the keelson. My intention is to strength more the hull by adding the keelson and the at least the #9 thick stuff and #12 lower deck clamps. Then I´ll glue four or five temporary #14 lower deck beams to strength again the hull and get ready of the 4x4 beams…
 
I have completed the hull on November 16th of 2013. She looks beautiful. While sanding her with my hands once and once again sometimes I close my eyes and just feel the shape of the hull. It feels funfantascic, is like touching a sculpture… Anyway I use a 4x1mm ribband to see where I have to sand more or less. It is very helpful.
 Lot of work to do ahead but I feel kind of happy seeing the main whole thing completed.
 
Happy Wiiiiinter!
 
Daniel.

Thanks guys.
Greg the pins are easy to make, I think they rank amongst the top 10 most used tools in my build.
Ben, with my scroll saw they were relative easy to make and there were no remakes :-) 
 
I couldn't find an appropriated sized piece of brass for the iron knee so I made it from boxwood and tinted it black with Fiebing's leather paint
I'm also doing lot's of mortice cutting for the remaining carlings and ledges.
 


 
A little off topic, but it was time to make a better storage for my chisels. They used to wander over my bench  with the tip protected by a little piece of isolation foam. This was a nice little project, keeps them safe and organized  
 

 
 
 
Remco
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 24 – Forward Cant Frames
 
 
American Clipper Note: American Clippers not only sailed fast, they were built fast.  Impatient customers demanded it.  A yard would normally launch two from the same slip in a year.  Many were built in close to three months time and one 200-footer, John Bertram, in 61 days.  There were a number of reasons for this productivity.  First there was increased division of labor and the creation of trades.  Gone was the all-around shipwright in favor of gangs for specific tasks.  Steam driven machinery was widely deployed.  McKay, and perhaps other large yards, used steam driven bevel-saws that could be adjusted to the angle of the frame bevel while running.  This alone cut frame fabrication time by a factor of six, using but three men.  Steam derricks were used to raise frames and other heavy timbers, vs. a common practice of everyone dropping what they were doing to lend a hand.  Making treenails was no longer a rainy day make-work job done manually with axes and spoke shaves.  Instead treenails were rapidly turned out in by steam driven lathes.
 
 Back in the model shop, the all-around shipwright plods along.
 
The first picture shows the most forward cant frames being assembled.  Exactly the same pin-indexed alignment method is being used.
 

 
After assembling these roughed out pieces, the frames are beveled and the patterns removed.  The sidings of the upper futtocks are then reduced and the bolts installed.
 
In the next picture this has been done and the starboard frame is being fitted up into the mortise cut for it earlier.
 

 
Some paring of the mortise sides and bottom was done to neatly fit the frame.  In the next picture, the clamping has been set up in preparation for gluing the frame in.
 

 
The clamps were then removed, glue was applied and the clamps replaced.  After drying, the clamps were removed, the frames faired and the six iron bolts into the deadwood installed, as shown in the next picture.
 

 
Stem supports had to be removed for much of this work – usually one side at a time.  In the next picture the port frame has been installed and is being faired with a flat riffler, followed by sanding.
 

 
No project is without rework.  I have normally been making toptimbers from smaller 9-inch stock so these very visible members will be consistently sized - unlike lower timber sidings that have been filed or machined back after pattern removal.  In the case of these first cant frames, this reduced siding at the top left a small gap at the adjoining hawse timbers that can be seen in the last two pictures.  This was an oversight when I lofted the frames.  Rather than delay the erection, I decided to install the frames, then replace the toptimbers - before the glue had set overnight.  The next picture shows the starboard toptimber being removed with the aid of a razor blade in the glue joint.
 

 
No glue was applied on the forward side of this piece, so it was easy to separate with light taps along the joint.  The next picture shows the piece being removed, essentially intact.
 

 
In this picture the port side toptimber has been removed and not yet replaced. 
In the last picture the new larger top timbers have been installed and the joints with the hawse timbers closed up. 
 

 
Installation of the forward half frames has been suspended until all of the cants are in place – to leave room for that work.
 
 
Ed