sonicmcdude

@wefalck
@jdbondy
@matiz
@albert
Thank you very much for your encouragement. It's very motivating, especially when it comes to the very tricky work in the rigging. You always have to be extremely careful not to get caught on something.
Also, many thanks to everyone for the likes.
 
Continuation: Attaching the fore yard - Vergue de misaine - with the running rigging
Attaching the seizings to the slings was child's play compared to tying thimbles to the ends of the truss pendants.

The prepared truss tackles will then be hooked into these thimbles. Therefore, the thimbles could only be tied in afterward. Before doing so, a section of the serving at the rope ends had to be removed.

As already mentioned, I then hooked the prepared truss tackles into these thimbles and the corresponding eyebolts on the cap and led the running ropes down over redirection blocks to the fife rail behind the foremast for belaying.


More on this soon...

UPDATE :
after thinking a lot about the block fillers 
i have to post a little guide / tips how to build that fillers but firs of all i want to Thank to Matti Pilola ! that help me a lot with thinking and approve that guide  
i saw some tutorial and some comments over the internet , there is a lot of people that making the block fillers by pieces of wood (and not made them as a one piece )
that is the best way i have found , 
the only problem with that is : that they taking the angle of the curve with a plank and marking some card with that plank and after all they cutting the piece of wood as the mark on the card...
that method NEVER be a proper because when you will take the second curve it will never be the same as the first one !!!
and if you can make the same perfect curve as the firs curve , you not need a block fillers  
 
for that i was thinking to make the same curve from above to the end i mean to cut all the pieces on the same line : and for to be more proper its better to take the deck shape ...
in my case i took the shape of the last plywood filler that is supporting the gun ports template ..
i
 now after we have all the pieces ready we will need to mark lines on the bulkhead / keel (the lines that will be between the pieces that we made before )

and now we need to measure the lines ! and note them on list :
after we have that list we need to fit the pieces inside NOW IS THE TRICK !!!  
befor i will give the tip i will explain the problem with what we want ... for example  if we have a corner of 7cm by 5 cm and the piece that we cut before is 10cm by 8cm 
the firs idea is to cut 3cm from the 10 cm to get 7cm as the side of the corner but if it was a square we was doing that without any problem !in our case that we dealing with kind of "triangle" if we will cut it like that 3cm from the side of the 10cm we will lose also from the 8cm because we will touch the corner of the "triangle"....
 
i was thinking a lot what to do...
and thank God at the end i got the idea :
you need to make a ruler 90 degrees like a corner on some plastic paper or something transparent  and mark the measurements that we took from the lines like this :
 
 
than put the 90 degrees that we made on the piece that we need to cut in the same distance from the edge of the piece all over the line than mark the lines in the piece and cut (the best way is with table saw to get  straight line !)

than cut all the pieces as the lines and start sanding them as the shape ... (i was sanding them a bit before gluing them together and also i took about 1 mm more from the sides when i was measuring .. like instead to make the corner 7 cm i mark 71mm for getting space to sanding them without mistakes ...)
 
after all  this is the result for the first sanding : 

now the next stag:
block fillers for the second bulkhead: 
i was marking the lines outside of a strip 1.5 mm to get enough space to sand without mistakes :

after cutting and sanding the second block fillers :
i glue some small pieces of 5mm between the first and the second block fillers to get the exact same space as a bulkhead and i glue the blocks in the same position as they need to be on the ship and i start to sand them , in that method after sanding the blocks together i knew how mach i need to fair the first bulkhead ! 
note : first put the second block filler before sanding and mark the lines of the first bulkhead in the front and the second bulkhead in the back of the block
when you will sand that you need to be flash with the line of the back but leave about 2-3 mm out of the line of the first bulkhead ! you will need it for the next stage!!!
 

after sanding the blocks disconnect the little pieces between them and put it to the first and the second bulkhead check if its looks ok , if you made the sanding to deep don't worry you can move a bit the block filler down on the bulkhead and you will get the less space between the bulkhead to the filler ..
 

now after all we can start fairing the bow section !
but very important !!! when you fair the first bulkhead don't fair it all the way! leave about 1mm without fairing ! in all over the bulkhead also in the sauced bulkhead fair only half way ! with that you will have a guid how to fair the angel without passing losing the shape of the bulkhead , that also will help you to fare both sides identical !!! but if you will fair the bulkhead all the way you maybe will past the line! and you will lose the shape 
here is the final result :
 


 
 
 

Hi Michael,
 
In my 14 Gun Brig "Fair American" build (here on MSW) I choose to use filler blocks to assist in hull fairing as well as providing improved support for planking.  Filler blocks were bass wood glued to the bulkheads prior to hull assembly.  Fairing was accomplished using 60 grit sandpaper wrapped around hardwood dowels.  This approach was successful in providing a well faired hull from an inaccurate set of kit furnished bulkheads.  I wood recommend bass wood or pine for filler blocks as its easy to work with but strong enough to support planking.
 
Regards,
Pete

The fairing will be an iterative process. The bulk of the fairing, particularly where the waterlines form a steeper angle with the bulkheads, is easier done on the bench, than when the bulkheads are installed. The final fairing, using a spline batten, should be done with the bulkheads firmly installed.

I recently built Model Shipways Picket Boat. The fairing lines were laser marked and I used a belt sander to do an initial fair before installing them and a final hand sanding once installed, saved a lot of hand sanding! See post #3 in this thread.   
 

Jamie, that is a puzzler. I don't see why or how you would fair bulkheads unless they were glued in place since they need to be faired in relationship to one another. Blocking you can either install before fairing or after fairing and the fair them in. I prefer putting the blocking in first and just fair once.

Thank you @scrubbyj427 for your comment


Ok Dear Friends  
 
THE END 

This day has come Model is finally completed.
After many years of resting under the cover, I've managed to tie last knot

I would like to thank you All for many likes and warm comments 
 
 
So at that stage I would like to share some final "shots" of Papegojan
 
 

 

 

 

 
 
 

Enjoy... and hopefully see you soon!
...not sure when... but I'll be back
 
Keep calm and carry on with Your beautiful models!!!
 
 

Hello Ron, and wellcome to MSW. I am glad if anybody is inspired by my attempts. Thank you for your nice words.
Here is last step I made today -dead eye 4mm dia

Short pause in shipyard.
Job trip with little travel to see incredible Black River Monastery at south of Serbia, situated in deep wood on mountain gorge with steep cliffs ...
Monastery church is situated in cave, miniature hermitages and monk cells are around and partially drilled in stone, narrow passages as labyrinth, wooden terraces above the precipice .... all walled with stone ... 
Enjoy as I did!

Final touch and weathering before thiny varnish

Final touch and weathering before thin varnish

Details

Painting

Cap Band,, step by step
Remarks
Strip of Cu foil on start is spiral, with ends INSIDE
Dont forget to apply thiny foil of soldering on surface of strip.
1. Cut a strip of copper foil of the required width, long enough to wrap twice around the mast. Sand well
2. Bend the tape around both masts in a spiral, so that the ends of the tape are on the inside
3. remove from the mold, adjust to the correct dimensions and tighten so that it does not unroll, then solder the assemblies. Apply a thin layer of solder paste to the surface of the ring to strengthen it
4. Solder the foil over as a cover
5. Remove excess material
6. Drill the holes for the hooks

Progressing
All three nests got plankung with light weathering, so, they are done! Exept painting in one of next stage..

When you have not enough hands ...
Second mast almost done

All three nests - metal works done.
Holder for yard on fore lower mast done. This was tricky. Made from Cu foil 0.3mm which is harden wirh thin layer of soldering on surface.

More mast details

I'm finally back after more than 2 months break!
 
    Well, this was a necessary time off from my Polaris, not because I lost an interest, but because I had to do a lot of other unexpected work at my home that could not be delayed. Luckily I've managed to finish the Mastini's "Ship Modeling Simplified" (absolutely amazing book, one of the best for beginners I think) and finally understood why "Masting and Rigging" is the hardest, most frustrating and time consuming part of ship modeling. Yes, the book explains the nautical terms, parts and there mechanics in a full-rigged ship and I agree - that is a lot of unnecessary information to complete the Polaris. But my opinion is that even if you don't build a full-rigged ship as a first build, it's really important to understand the basics, to know what are you doing and to do it properly. Yeah, I won't have to do yards and footropes, futtock shrouds or ratlines in my Polaris, but the (basic) knowledge of how to do these parts and what are their purpose in the real ships is really important and very interesting. As I said in my first post - I want to build my ship properly and learn a lot of nautical things, rather than just do something that I don't know anything about it . But enough talking about the things I learnt, let me show you the things I've made during the last 2 months.
 
    First I decided to redo the front blocks which will be used for the bowsprit shrouds:

    This was my first try practicing the new seizing technique and I think it looks a lot better than the simple overhand knots from the official instructions. Maybe the seizing here could be a little bit tighter, but I'm happy with the result.
    Then I started crafting the spars. First in the row was the bowsprit. Here I learnt another awesome seizing technique (special thanks to J Brent), which I used for all blocks, rigged around spars. This is the comparison between a rigged block, made according to the instructions and a block, rigged with the J Brent's technique:

    Better, right? And this is the second block, before mounting it on the spar:

    Yeah, this one seems a bit confusing and it is much more time consuming, but believe me the final result is much more better and authentic than the technique  showed in the instructions. This is the final look of the bowsprit:

    Then I continued with the fore and main mast. Here I've noticed something strange - there were no blocks with beckets. This type of blocks were not mentioned anywhere, neither in the plans nor in the instructions, according to which the running line should be tied just beneath the block and for me this is not correct. So I decided to learn how to make blocks with beckets, then checked the plans and marked where they are needed. Here are two of my blocks with beckets which I'm proud of :


    To make my job easier, I've made a little tool to keep the block in place while tightening the line around it. Just grab a part of scrap wood and pin a nail (or two for double blocks):

    This is the result of the fore mast and it's gaff:


    And these are all spars completed:

    Another thing I've been thinking about a lot is: to glue or not to glue the gaffs and the boom to the masts? As per instructions they should be glued, but for me this isn't correct. My understanding is that all of this spars (gaffs and booms) should be hauled using the running rigging. After all, that's the point of all halyards and the topping lift, right?
And this is how everything looks on the ship (dry fitted):

Oh wow this is great! Talking about details this is just awesome!

Have just been catching up on your log Nenad  - beautiful work.
 
For most of us, the names of the various components of masts, yards and rigging is a new language, so I wouldn’t worry about there not being specific Serbian words for them. Just learn them as the rest of us do. Then you can add to your list of languages spoken - “nautical”. 😊

Going forward
Boats on their places

Maybe this is off topic, but this guy made a mill from scrach and I think is for wax but if you can replace the small motor with a rotary tool is going to be strong enough for wood. Here are some pictures ....