sonicmcdude

Fore upper deck
 
Hi, all friends. I'm very happy with your kind words and comments.
 
Still I can not decide the method and material for bolting on hull planking, I moved to upper deck work as below. I'm not sure l can keep the carlings as well aligned with the progress of work.
 
Regards. Lee

Upper deck progress
 
Up to now, 6th deck beam has fitted. Making small fittings takes much time. Windlass, fore companion way grating were placed. Small metal stove has been tried with Cu foil but the result was too shiny and unbalanced with surrounding wood color, so I'll remake it with blackened Cu foil.
 
Cheers, Lee

Hi, Kurt. I didn't use any jig but eye measurement. Just try and you will find the way.
 
Thank you, Nils for the interest about fishing ship. I add some more close up pics. The large capstan seems to be used to haul heavy fishing net. Actually, there was no information about the deck beam structures, so, I did them with imagination.

One more deck beam and wardroom, bulkhead and doors
 
Little progress of deck structure. I left some pics of interior because they will be covered with deck planks and become invisible soon. ^^
 
Cheers, Lee

Two more upper deck beams and main transverse bulkhead with door and stanchion
 
Cheers, Lee

Metal stove, sailor room and 7th deck beam
 
With pre-blackened thin copper sheet, metal stove was remade. In this work, wood mold was used and the metal parts was joined with CA glue. The blackened result looks better than previous one. The sailor room was built between main mast and hatch. Metal hinges for the door and window were simulated with copper strip just for decoration.
 
Cheers, Lee

Upper deck beam structure
 
Though it was tedious, with installing the last deck beam, called as deck transom, upper deck beam structure was finished. It is hardly seen but captain's room and bread room bulkhead was fitted below the deck beam structure. ^^*
Next work will be stern timber structure and port side deck planking.
 
Cheers, Lee

HELLO Hello!
 
It´s been a while since my last post but promise, promise that I´ve been working on (the Triton). It´s just that there was nothing reliable to post here.
 
new tools: I made a block to sand the wale out of a 25x25mm piece of pine. I also discovered a metal plate to curve the timbers. I bought it years ago by mail (not inet, nor amazon) and do not remember the address of the guy. (maybe cabrapente knows it) It is pretty useful and you avoid to have lots of jigs to get the proper curvature to the timbers, specially on the stem and stern.
 
Here are the pics:
 

 

 

 
I´ll go to next post...
 

Hola a todos! Hello All!
 
Hope July is treating all of you ok!
 
Finally I have almost complete the main wale... I´ve been planking and making the joinery for the gun ports at the same time. I have also started with the stern post. Let´s see how the work will come out in this another tricky part of the "building".
 
Here some pics,,,
 

 

 

 

 
And these are my first LD beams. It´s amazing that small camber on them.
 

 
Just a try. I couldn´t resist...
 

 
And here´s the upper counter rail. Instead of boiling it I left it on water (in 2lt bottle of coke i.e.) for 24h or more. Then I clamped it using a jig and let it dry for more than 3 days.
 

 

 

 
And that´s all for now...
 
Guy, That ship it´s called Franky Boy!
 
Richard, I´ll be posting more pdf´s soon. I just make them when I need them, If you need some specyfically on the stage you´re right now just ask it for. No problem at all. I do enjoy to work on CAD.
 
Hey Ray! It´s Sierra Vista close to Mesa Verde? I spent a whole year there, at Mesa Verde, back on ´92!
 
Best wishes!!
 
 
Daniel.

Hello All and thanks for all the “likes” (12 in a month, hahaha)
 
Oh boy! I never thought that 60 pieces of wood would tell so much about the structure of a platform. I do know that much more of this work will be invisible with the other decks but do not not how, I keep keeping the things not simple.
 
It is quiet easy to get lost if you are trying to actually build the whole inner structure of the ship, so where do you stop detailing the different rooms…?
 
For the spirituous drinks and the fish* I thought that was odd to have such a reliable source in touch with the limber water… rats, fungus, dark water… So I have decided to make 3 separate rooms for all of this. Like that we were talking about the powder room on the magazine.
 
Here are the pics; there are lots of them from the beginning.
 

 
I ended using pieces of paper to find out the shape of the bulkhead, easier and cheapier and I ran out of balsa wood.
 

 

 
Here´s a lot of work between the pics above and the rest of the post but no pics of it... we are talking about 60 pieces that took me almost a week...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Here´s the magazine where I´ll move now. Just to check. The rooms and departments kind of scare me,,, how many pieces will be involved?...
 

 

 
Need to buy a better camera...
 
 
(*) FISH: Got a question to you, Do you think it was a room for fresh fish or salad fish? If it is salad I´ll leave the bulkhead like that but if it´s fresh I´ll have to double the bulkhead with 40mm plank (for real) on both sides (2 or 3 planks).
 
On another side, I have decided to dedicate 1 week to the Triton an one to the CAD on the Principe De La Paz because otherwise I´m not going to be able to end none of them…No rush in this hobby…
 
Best wishes and happy winter! Viva J.C. Fogerty and his CCR!!!
 
 
Daniel.

I used the balsa pattern to draw the shape on the bulkhead already done. I also used it to get the different hights of the main pillar and the other small ones.
 

 
The main pole -post is 3x3  and the others 2x2. All this measures are what has been taking me a lot of time of thinking. 2 mm means 9.6 sq cm on real, 3 --- 14.4 sq cm much more or less 15x15. I always try to translate the measures to the real to see if the model looks true to the real world or is a "fake".
 
For example on the aft platform, the one for the fish and the spiritous drinks I did long ago, the strips measure 4.5mm (21.6cm real). To find out strips of that size for a hatch seems to me odd. So I re-do it with stips of 10 - 15 on real.
 

 

 
Any way here are the pics of where I am right now...
 

 

 

 
What I have wanted to explain is how the windows -doors can be open and how they work. I have not the tools to make the groove on the frame to hold the door but looks real to me.
 
Daniel.

So, after all this work, I started with the bulkheads of the lower platforms. The fore one has taken me like 4 days, thinking and rethinking how the hek it was made.
 
(I´m going to speak on present cause it´s easier for me)
 
 
I start with a piece of 1mm balsa wood to try to find out the form of the bulkhead. Trial and error...for me it´s the best method.
 

 
After removing the piece several times I end with this... the pic shows the stage without the 1x1 step of the limber.
 

 
After that I glue several strips of "ramin" wood with a mix of glue and dark brown achrylic to comform the bulkhead and simulate the caulking*
 

 

 
I use a file to scrap the excess of glue and sand it with a square block.
 

 
caulking*
 
I have a question, Are all the bulkheads caulked or only the ones close to the water on the hold area? On the powder room and that zones I guess there´s no doubt. Maybe I am wrong and none of the bulkheads were caulked. Please tell me something.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

So...
 
I re-do the limber strake. I cut it to kind of square the timber using a sharp blade and some chisels. I also glued a 1x1 mm strip to simulate the step where the covers of the limber go. It has been a surgery work and really a pain on the neck.
 
I need a proxxon mill or something to reach that kind of detail, who knows... next project maybe.
 

 

 

 
All this work had to be done to start with the interior working. Right now I am dealing with the hooks and the "mast bases"

Hello all!
 
Still waiting for the answer about the question of the mizzen mast... Druxey, Mark, Jürgen... and all!
 
Anyway,
 
Here´s a pic of the Triton taked on June 18th 2014
 

 
And here´s a of how she have changed.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 
 
 
I´m pretty happy cause now I can see the "final" shape of the ship. Cutting the frames was kind of a nightmare... almost everything started to crack so I have had to quote every single piece with a pencil an then stick them to the frames with tape or to see where I have to re-glue...
 
Hope to work some more on Easter!
 
 
 
daniel.

The Proxxon does indeed have the ability to angle the blade like a full size table saw Nigel.
 

 
Cutting lots of angled strips would be a breeze with this saw.

When Iam building I have a few tools I would not want to be without. There is the hobbyknife, the steel ruler, a sandingstick and... my handdrill. 

I use is a lot but the problem is you have to change the drillbits every time you need another size. Last month I wrote down the drillsizes I use most and I came up with 5 populair sizes. 

So I ordered 4 more handdrills and I made a good looking socket for them and now I never grab wrong when I need a drill.

Hi Guys,
 
Been a bit backward in coming forward with my latest update I'm afraid, all I can say is that it's been an eventful couple of weeks and this old geezer doesn't usually do eventful.
 
Things have moved on a step or two since my last post and I can be accused of getting carried away, I promised to show the making up of the Shellroom but unfortunately this is now not possible. So I'm afraid we have from component parts to completed item in two pictures, If anybody wants to see how the Shellroom is constructed then may I suggest you pay a visit to Grants log in this section and he will most likely show how it's done, he's very good at that sort of thing.
 
So, we now have our Shellroom completed and all polyied up it's on to the next stage.


 
First up is the make up of the Mortar Pit Beams and Planking, it strikes me that with the dimensions of the Planking they should be referred to as Boards, they are quite substantial pieces of wood when taken in scale.

 
Here are the component parts for the Mortar Pit Beams and Planking

 
The Beams are not difficult to make up and are pretty straight up unless your me that is, the cut outs for the Shellroom supports were not quite lined up and so each had to measured up to fit, not difficult but a lot of too-ing and fro-ing. This shot is of the Beams being glued into place.

 
All Beams are now firmly glued into position

 
Next up we have the Mortar Pit Planks, These are made up of two different size Holly Planks, the Primary Planks are made from 1/4 x 3/16 and the Secondary Planks are 3/16 x 1/8 with the outer Planks being 1/4 x 1/8. I also used black paper for the caulking.The centre of the Secondary Planking was cut out using a hole cutter, the Treenails were drilled and made up from dust gained from sanding down the planks and using the slightly darker material, I think it works.

 
The two planking's offered up to each other

 
The Mortar Pit Boundary Timbers  were made up from 5/16 x 1/4 Pear and routed on my trusty Proxxon Router.

 
The Primary and Secondary Planking have now been fitted into the cut outs on the Boundary Timbers and the Upper and Lower Deck Clamps have been glued into position.

 
So there we are guys, your right up to date now. It seems a pretty good place to stop for the time being as I have now been given the job of restoring a Harwich Bawley which is a Shrimp Fishing Smack. I was looking for a secondary build and now I have it.
I also have to repair my Thames Barge which was damaged by the decorators during pre season work at the museum.
I will be starting a new log for the Bawley and hopefully restarting my old log for the barge, if it still exists, the damage to the barge is quite extensive and will require a full breakdown of all masts and rigging. Oh deep joy.
 
Hope you enjoy the update guys.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Hi everyone,
 
While waiting for my newer MicroMark RTV rubber, I started on the carriages.
 
I used double sided tape to hold the blanks onto the mill table, and milled them to shape including the rabbets for the axles. I then cut the individual blanks on the table saw, with the mitre set to 2 degrees on each side for the correct convergence of the carriage.
 
I am also showing a jig for cutting the curved lower edge, using a piloted bit on my router table.
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark

Hi Mark,
 
I took a short break from YA this morning to take a few pictures for you.  It only took a few minutes - once I found the melting pot.  I use this hotplate for boiling water for wood bending.  I plug it into an automatic 60-minute shutoff timer so I don't leave it on by mistake when I wander off.
 
The first picture shows the simple pot - still full of cold metal - on the hot plate.  I got rid of the arm so I would not bump into it and spill the metal.  I use channel-locks to pour.   I like the hot plate because you can hold the metal at a good temperature and you also have a place to toss the sprues as you cut them off.  Both of these things are convenient if you are doing many pours in a session.
 

 
The next picture shows the two part RTV molds in the Centricast disk.  They get bolted together for casting.  There are a lot of parts for the machine - to allow molds to be cast as well as castings.  Note the ring around the mold joint.  Some of these molds have been used for 100- 200 pours this one probably a few dozen.
 

 
Finally, a few castings to show what can be done with RTV in the way of complex castings.   They do not come out of the mold painted.  Many of the figures have cast parts added after casting and quite a number are multiple parts.
 

 
Happy casting.
 
Ed
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Michael, thanks for the thoughts on holding it on pins. With paint it might work, but with stain I have to put a cloth on every surface and wipe it off. It is challenging. In the end, I had to mask each piece, and hold it while staining, then wiping. Tedious, but here are the first results. Ironwork still to come,, and I look forward to seeing the darkened pewter for cannon rather than the resin and brass seen here.
 
Mark

Thanks, bizibilder, I will try that on the gun carriages for the upper deck.
 
I managed to cast a plaster holder for my gun mould as recommended in David Antscherl's Fully Framed Model vol. II. I now see the wisdom of that approach, after having my first pour spill out of the mould when the rubber bands burst. After the plaster dries, time to try melting some metal again.
 
I also built a little jig for assembling the gun carriages. I haven't decided yet if I will stain each piece and then assemble, or assemble and then stain. Masking each part for separate staining in tedious, and I have no place to hold each piece when staining it all over, without putting my fingers in the fresh stain. But it is also difficult to get the stain into each nook and cranny when it is already assembled. I already tried it the first way, and I'll try it the second way tomorrow, and see what happens.
 
Mark
 
 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 114 – Cabins, Brass Sheathing
 
With the forecastle essentially complete, I returned to the interior of the cabin deck.  The first picture shows the cabins on both sides completed.
 

 
The poop deck framing has been installed back to the last cabins.  The curved wood block that will serve as the base for the circular seat and paneling is set in place.  This will close off the aft end of the cabin deck, separating it from the stern framing and the helm.  Note also that the double doorway into the cabin deck has been cut – once the poop framing was done.
 
I also started work on the main deck cabin.  The starboard fore and aft wall panel is being constructed in the next picture.
 

 
The panel was made first from individual planks.  It has to follow the sheer of the deck.  In the picture the 4X4 plate that will support the roof rafters is glued on and 4X4 studs are being attached.  The next picture shows the framed wall in place for a trial fit.
 

 
The doors and windows have been framed on the inside.  In the next picture they have been cut out.
 

 
The exterior walls will be white.  I will do this painting before fitting the natural wood framing of the doors and windows.
 
This has all been a nice diversion from the brass sheathing of the hull, but I did not want to proceed further with details on the main deck without finishing the lower hull to minimize the need to upending the model.  The next picture shows the stamping tool for embossing nails on the brass plates.
 

 
This was discussed in some previous posts.  The area on the right is used to stamp every plate.  The single row stamp to the left is used for the top dress course.  It needs a row of nails added at the top.
 
The plates are cemented down with contact cement, with the indentations up to simulate nails hammered into the plates.  These should more correctly be called sheets.  They were very thin.  Being nailed over a felt underlay would have left a decidedly quilted appearance.  In the next picture, a plate has been cemented and is being rolled down.
 

 
This improves the bond with the contact cement, presses down the edges, and flattens out the indentations.  Glue is applied to one plate and its place on the hull at a time.  This is necessary to have glue on the overlaps.  Excess cement that can be seen on installed plates in this picture is easily removed later.
 
The last picture shows this work completed.
 

 
The brass is very shiny.  It will dull with time, but I helped it along with some buffing with a Scotchbrite disc in a rotary tool – just enough to dull the glare a bit.
 
Work on the bottom framing can now be completed – adding any missing bolts, blackening the copper wire bolts, final poolishing and applying wax finish.  It may also be time for the stern lettering.
 
 
Ed

The lower wales (18:00 hours) 
 
 
 
 
Today I made the lower wales, they were made in much the same way as the upper ones except that they where aligned against the planks above them. rather then by the gunports. I also fixed the port side upper wale because it was bugging me. The normal thickness planks are made from cherry which doesn't bend as well as the oak but because their so thin it don't really matter. The scuppers were made with a round file prier to installing the lower wale.
 
The first normal thickness plank.

My thickness sander.

 






 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Lextin.

making the keel: (12:00 Hours)
 
 
The keel is done. I made the keel from cherry and the false keel from oak. Most the cutting was done on the bandsaw, I used the drum sander in the drillpress to sand the pieces right up to the lines then used a file to make the joints fit perfectly. I simulated calking by rubbing pencil on the inside of the joints prier to gluing. The entire keel was glued in place so that planking can commence.
 







 
 
 
 
 
Lextin.

Thanks muchly Christian, Greg, John, Carl and David .
 
Jeer Tyes
 
The jeer tyes support the lower yards. These would have been a fair bit easier to fit before raising the Topmasts   .
 
Two 20" single blocks, one each side, are double stropped with very long strops :
 

 
A cleat each side of the mast supports the strops. TFFM suggested the following method of making the cleats to allow the lashings for the strops to be fitted more easily, but after I'd done them this way I think it would have been easier to make them in one piece. The small "feet" at the top were a real pain to fit afterward, and a needle treader can be used to pass the line through one-piece cleats with a minimum of fuss :
 

 

 
The lashings take a little while to fit, as there are six turns around the mast for each (there are supposed to be seven, but I made the lashing line a bit too short   ).
 

 

 

 
The strops should be long enough for the blocks to sit beneath the tops by about half their length. The yard will sit at the level of the futtock shrouds when they are rigged :
 

 
 Danny