sonicmcdude

Thanks, bizibilder, I will try that on the gun carriages for the upper deck.
 
I managed to cast a plaster holder for my gun mould as recommended in David Antscherl's Fully Framed Model vol. II. I now see the wisdom of that approach, after having my first pour spill out of the mould when the rubber bands burst. After the plaster dries, time to try melting some metal again.
 
I also built a little jig for assembling the gun carriages. I haven't decided yet if I will stain each piece and then assemble, or assemble and then stain. Masking each part for separate staining in tedious, and I have no place to hold each piece when staining it all over, without putting my fingers in the fresh stain. But it is also difficult to get the stain into each nook and cranny when it is already assembled. I already tried it the first way, and I'll try it the second way tomorrow, and see what happens.
 
Mark
 
 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 114 – Cabins, Brass Sheathing
 
With the forecastle essentially complete, I returned to the interior of the cabin deck.  The first picture shows the cabins on both sides completed.
 

 
The poop deck framing has been installed back to the last cabins.  The curved wood block that will serve as the base for the circular seat and paneling is set in place.  This will close off the aft end of the cabin deck, separating it from the stern framing and the helm.  Note also that the double doorway into the cabin deck has been cut – once the poop framing was done.
 
I also started work on the main deck cabin.  The starboard fore and aft wall panel is being constructed in the next picture.
 

 
The panel was made first from individual planks.  It has to follow the sheer of the deck.  In the picture the 4X4 plate that will support the roof rafters is glued on and 4X4 studs are being attached.  The next picture shows the framed wall in place for a trial fit.
 

 
The doors and windows have been framed on the inside.  In the next picture they have been cut out.
 

 
The exterior walls will be white.  I will do this painting before fitting the natural wood framing of the doors and windows.
 
This has all been a nice diversion from the brass sheathing of the hull, but I did not want to proceed further with details on the main deck without finishing the lower hull to minimize the need to upending the model.  The next picture shows the stamping tool for embossing nails on the brass plates.
 

 
This was discussed in some previous posts.  The area on the right is used to stamp every plate.  The single row stamp to the left is used for the top dress course.  It needs a row of nails added at the top.
 
The plates are cemented down with contact cement, with the indentations up to simulate nails hammered into the plates.  These should more correctly be called sheets.  They were very thin.  Being nailed over a felt underlay would have left a decidedly quilted appearance.  In the next picture, a plate has been cemented and is being rolled down.
 

 
This improves the bond with the contact cement, presses down the edges, and flattens out the indentations.  Glue is applied to one plate and its place on the hull at a time.  This is necessary to have glue on the overlaps.  Excess cement that can be seen on installed plates in this picture is easily removed later.
 
The last picture shows this work completed.
 

 
The brass is very shiny.  It will dull with time, but I helped it along with some buffing with a Scotchbrite disc in a rotary tool – just enough to dull the glare a bit.
 
Work on the bottom framing can now be completed – adding any missing bolts, blackening the copper wire bolts, final poolishing and applying wax finish.  It may also be time for the stern lettering.
 
 
Ed

The lower wales (18:00 hours) 
 
 
 
 
Today I made the lower wales, they were made in much the same way as the upper ones except that they where aligned against the planks above them. rather then by the gunports. I also fixed the port side upper wale because it was bugging me. The normal thickness planks are made from cherry which doesn't bend as well as the oak but because their so thin it don't really matter. The scuppers were made with a round file prier to installing the lower wale.
 
The first normal thickness plank.

My thickness sander.

 






 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Lextin.

making the keel: (12:00 Hours)
 
 
The keel is done. I made the keel from cherry and the false keel from oak. Most the cutting was done on the bandsaw, I used the drum sander in the drillpress to sand the pieces right up to the lines then used a file to make the joints fit perfectly. I simulated calking by rubbing pencil on the inside of the joints prier to gluing. The entire keel was glued in place so that planking can commence.
 







 
 
 
 
 
Lextin.

Thanks muchly Christian, Greg, John, Carl and David .
 
Jeer Tyes
 
The jeer tyes support the lower yards. These would have been a fair bit easier to fit before raising the Topmasts   .
 
Two 20" single blocks, one each side, are double stropped with very long strops :
 

 
A cleat each side of the mast supports the strops. TFFM suggested the following method of making the cleats to allow the lashings for the strops to be fitted more easily, but after I'd done them this way I think it would have been easier to make them in one piece. The small "feet" at the top were a real pain to fit afterward, and a needle treader can be used to pass the line through one-piece cleats with a minimum of fuss :
 

 

 
The lashings take a little while to fit, as there are six turns around the mast for each (there are supposed to be seven, but I made the lashing line a bit too short   ).
 

 

 

 
The strops should be long enough for the blocks to sit beneath the tops by about half their length. The yard will sit at the level of the futtock shrouds when they are rigged :
 

 
 Danny

Looking good keith!!!  
 
One of the guys taped my planking session at my club meeting.  Its freaky to see myself on a video like this.  No laughing.   But It shows how I taper and cut a plank to match my plan from lining out the hull.   I wish the camera was behind me but I hope its still worth posting.
 

 
Chuck

Hi Chuck
 
Since I have seen your moldings for over the past year,it was time for me to try some. Here's a photo of my moldings on the 1/47 Rouyal Caroline that I am building now.
 
Looking forward to building the Cheerful.
 
Keith 

Here is a look at that "ear" piece.   Actually I am not entirely sure it can be called an "ear"  as it is only an extension of the molding.   But this is indeed what I came up with.   Taking a piece 1/16' thick I formed the piece.   Its shape was found playing around with a card template.   Then I transferred it to the wood.  Finally the same scraper I used on the molding was used on this piece.   Then a small length of molding was butt against it and continued aft.   This is as far as I am going until after I plank and treenail the other side.  I did however adjust some of the molding after seeing the pictures I posted yesterday.  Some of it had some minor dips and waviness.   I feel better now.  
 
Then I will add the stern post and move to the inboard details by planking the bulwarks etc.
 

 

 

 

 
Chuck

I was asked to take a photo from the bow "right-side-up", so folks can see the run of the planks there.   I hope this will do the trick.  Let me know if there is any other questions.
 
Chuck
 

 

Thank you very much.
 
I finally finished treenailing this side.   I am glad that is over.   I tried my best to take pictures of the treenails really close.  I had to mess with the settings of the camera to get the best shot.   But at least you can see the shape and detail.  They are not perfect by any stretch of the imagination.  But it does the trick.  Remember these are #78 holes.  
 
Interesting though...the last two photos are identical shots except I changed the settings.  On my camera I changed from Fluorescent to outdoor....on a setting and look at the color difference.  Freaky.  I could swear that both are representative as well.  Its funny the tricks your eyes play on you.  Only after seeing them side by side does it get so clearly different.  I couldnt even tell you which is better.  After looking at both for so long it all just blends together and gets confusing.   I think I like the third one down the  best and wont change the settings again until my kids steel the camera and screw up how I set it up.  Then I have to start all over again.  
 
I hope this helps.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

Spent the day treenailing...woo-hoo!!!   Managed to get half of the starboard side done.   I am using a #78 drill bit for the size.  They are subtle which I like.  In fact here is a close up as it may be hard to see in the full profile image.  But it ads the nice texture I like without looking to measle like.  Clicking on the two bottom pictures might give you just a hint of treenails although it may also be my photography skills.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

hi all
been beavering away since the last post.canons almost complete just the training tackle and breeching ropes to make and then we can start putting all the final bits and pieces together.
photos of current progress attached.
 
cheers.......mick

Oh, sweet taste of re-do

Technics and method are ok, but drawing is wrong.

In patience. Just inpatient. Once again. I draw main lines with graphite pen, and jumped over next step - to bold them before starting with clay, so, without continuous keeping of one eye to photo, I just missed right shape and look I want. Working with this little pieces of clay just occupied my attention, and I just follow wrong lines. See what I have done during making photos

With toothpick apply thin line of thinned wood glue, pick pieces of clay with same toothpick and just put it on the glued line, and after a while just fix relief with little drops of acrylic. I used gold in intend to be easier to see relief when paint surface black


Acrylic applied in dots hardened and help to fill spaces between pieces of clay, and to make all relief more consistent, and also every next layers rise up relief a bit

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 107 – Lower Hull Work
 
I finally finished the hull planking this week and got some other tasks well along.  The first picture shows the full extent of the planking on the port side – as yet unpainted..
 

 
The deck is still masked for painting the white inside bulwarks.  That work is now also finished and the installation of the painted waterways can proceed.
 
The next picture shows some of the seemingly endless task of treenailing the planking.
 

 
This work, too, is now complete on both sides of the hull.  The picture also shows work on the rudder gudgeons.  These were made by first silver soldering a tube into a groove in a sheet of .032” brass.  The rough gudgeons were then ripped off on the circular saw as shown below.
 

 
The .032” brass – about 2 ½” at 1:72 – is too thick for the straps, but allowed the thick area at the hinge to be shaped.  The 6” wide straps were then bent and filed back to about 1” thick.  The next picture shows the bottom four installed using small brass nails.
 

 
The 16” aft face or the stern post is notched to receive the 6” wide gudgeons.  These were aligned when being fitted by a stiff, straight rod through the holes.  The end of the rod will mark the final center of the round helm opening – which must be on the hinge centerline.
 
The next picture shows the gudgeons on the starboard side. 
 

 
The top one will be installed after this side is painted.  Some of the lowest rows of “yellow metal” sheathing have been installed around the gudgeon.  This will be the only gudgeon requiring this, since this is the lowest of the planking at the stern.  The top of sheathing line – parallel and slightly above the load waterline - can be seen in this picture.  There will be several rows of sheathing.  The top row will be on the straight, horizontal sheathing line.  The strakes below will follow the planking shear and “gore” into this top strake. 
 
The brass plates were cut from .002” brass.  The nailing pattern was embossed into the plates used an embossing device.  The picture below shows the nail pattern being drilled in a wood block to make this.
 

 
The thickness of the block was sized carefully to allow small steel nails to be inserted from the underside.  The tips protrude just enough to impart the pattern when stamped as shown below.
 

 
Stamping these plates is almost as thrilling as treenailing.  Fortunately there are only about a half-dozen rows. A close up of the first few stamped plates is shown in the last photo.
 

 
After the pine stamping block “breaks in” the dimples become more regular.  These are like little cheese graters.  They are fastened with contact cement – another enjoyable task.  After making and installing 3700 of these my Victory model, I swore I wouldn’t do this again – but that was in 1978.
  
Ed

Hello helllo, Here are the pics...
 

 
This part has been the "trickiest" (till now...) to built. I repeated them 3 times. I had no such thick piece of wood so I ended gluing to 5mm planks. Then I sanded it. I have left all the pieces 4mm thick because on the plan look pretty thin to me.
 

 

 
I finanally found the trick, specially due to Jürgen´s log (Thanks for that J!!).  2 leveled ribbands (2.5x5mm) to fit the posts.
 

 
With the ribband and those clamps (not very fancy) It´s easy to set the post and see where you have to sand less or more.
 

 
Starboard.
 

 
Port side. The curve is very nice.
 

 
Now, another good one. I glued a 20x20mm pine block meaussuring the correct distance from the last frame till the outter edge of the post. 52mm. I ensured the level of the block. Somehow is like actually building a jig.
 

 
After the port and the startboard posts were glued I moved the pine block 3mm out. All the post comform a curve, they are not straight aligned. You can also take this measure out of the plans. I also marked the block with the situation of all the different posts.
 

 
Before to put the inner posts I started with the framing on both sides. Again the ribband was extremly useful...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Last pic, I marked the gabs down for the other posts. Now It´s all done. I ´ll post the pics later.
 
 
 
Daniel.

Deck Beam 
 

 

some photos...
 

 

 

 

 

Hello,
 
many thanks for the nice comments!
 
Here is a small update:
The 11th carronade is located.

Hello,
now I have mounted the fifth of twenty carronades.
For this, I show two images.

 

 

Hello,
here in the picture yet the necessary parts are assembled.

 

Hello,
many thanks for your motivating comments
 
This drilling pattern is repeated twenty times. It was therefore obvious to use a template here.


This I soldered together from brass. With a small handle the application easier. So that now, with a small graver holes all be precisely prearranged, without having to measure each time the model.

See you around ...

Hello,
here are further preparations for Installation of carronades and cannons.

Meanwhile accumulated on the deck of my French corvette a lot of "junk". These pieces of equipment I have not yet fixed.

 
On the blank ship deck the holes for the attachment of the breeching ropes can be more easily drilled.

I also built a working aid together. This enables me when drilling support forward in order to guide the drill more safely.

Thank you fellows for comments

Just a small update. Chamber gun.
 
3 pound gun vs. chamber gun
 

 
Cheers
Matt

Must be a supersized matchstick
 
Jan

Thanks Guys for comments and likes!!   

Cog as your wish extra photo.
 

 
Cheers
Matt