Angarfather

Thank you Alexander, I think I followed that, and I will try it - I mean the making of eyes. I understand what you mean about no protrusion of the lower edge of the semicircle gouges.
 
Below are some photos of various jigs for sharpening gravers. These are what I have been looking at while thinking about making jigs for Mikhail's tools. As you see, a jig for the straight chisels should be very simple. With a little added complexity, it could handle the straight and skew chisels. This is what I intend to make first, I have some 1/4" ball bearings sitting around that are a good size.
 
For the semicircular gouges, I am still thinking. Basically the idea is that the jig axle and the piece that holds the gouge are geared together such that as the jig rolls forward, the piece that is holding the gouge turns along its long axis. I think that will work but I'm not completely sure.
 
This is the "Crocker Pattern" graver sharpener. They are made by many companies. I don't think they'll work without significant modification or making Mikhail's tools separate from the handles.

This is a Bergeon 2461, not expensive, I ordered one to try it. It's for sharpening screwdrivers.

 
This is a Bergeon 2462 graver sharpener, fairly expensive for what it is, not sure if I will try it.

All brass version.

 
This is a very cheap graver sharpener you can find all over EBay and any jewelry or watch making supply companies.

 
This is one guy's home-made jig. I like it.


 
Another home-made jig. More sturdy but only good for one sharpening angle.

 
And a seriously cheap and easy home-made jig

...a little more process...
 

 

 

 

 

 
Unfortunately the rest of the work photographed. Not enough time.
 
 

Aye, Mates,
some pics from the last weeks. Next job is the modeling of the mast.
 
first parts to make were the chainplates. 2mm brass square tube. The eyes  are silver soldered.
 

 
The full channel
 

 
To turn the lower mast I had to extend the machine bottom of the lace.
 

 
The masthound.  Making this octagonal part by sanding on the milling machine.
 

 

 
The throat halliyard block . pearwood and aluminium
 

 
The lower mast
 

 
 
Next part: the bow sprit flagg stuff. A nice piece to make.

 

 

 

 

 

 
Best regards
 
Hartmut
 
 
 

Hello  PatricK!  Many thanks for your kind words!
 
As you wanted - some pics from the modelling of blocks.
     
First step: Drill in to holes at the end of the slots.
Second step: milling the slot in between the to holes

Next: forming the block by sanding
 

File in the groove for the metal fitting and drill in the hole for the axis of the sheave.

The fitting with its eyelet. 1mm brass soldered with silver

The finished block. The sheaves are made from 8mm aluminum

some pics of the rigging jobs.
 
the shrouds

 
The two back stays
 

 
 

 
Best regads Hartmut
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hello  PatricK!  Many thanks for your kind words!
 
As you wanted - some pics from the modelling of blocks.
     
First step: Drill in to holes at the end of the slots.
Second step: milling the slot in between the to holes

Next: forming the block by sanding
 

File in the groove for the metal fitting and drill in the hole for the axis of the sheave.

The fitting with its eyelet. 1mm brass soldered with silver

The finished block. The sheaves are made from 8mm aluminum

some pics of the rigging jobs.
 
the shrouds

 
The two back stays
 

 
 

 
Best regads Hartmut
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hello  PatricK!  Many thanks for your kind words!
 
As you wanted - some pics from the modelling of blocks.
     
First step: Drill in to holes at the end of the slots.
Second step: milling the slot in between the to holes

Next: forming the block by sanding
 

File in the groove for the metal fitting and drill in the hole for the axis of the sheave.

The fitting with its eyelet. 1mm brass soldered with silver

The finished block. The sheaves are made from 8mm aluminum

some pics of the rigging jobs.
 
the shrouds

 
The two back stays
 

 
 

 
Best regads Hartmut
 
 
 
 
 
 

Aye, Mates,
some pics from the last weeks. Next job is the modeling of the mast.
 
first parts to make were the chainplates. 2mm brass square tube. The eyes  are silver soldered.
 

 
The full channel
 

 
To turn the lower mast I had to extend the machine bottom of the lace.
 

 
The masthound.  Making this octagonal part by sanding on the milling machine.
 

 

 
The throat halliyard block . pearwood and aluminium
 

 
The lower mast
 

 
 
Next part: the bow sprit flagg stuff. A nice piece to make.

 

 

 

 

 

 
Best regards
 
Hartmut
 
 
 

Hello Niels,
many thanks for your kindly words! And yes in the background it is the Gorch Fock. Its always good to look to the horizon to see what will be the next project.
 
Two new parts at the Pavillons windows
 

 

 
 
Cheerio! Angarfather

Many thanks for all the Likes and the kindly words!
 
Some new decoration parts.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
Best regards ANgarfather

Hello  PatricK!  Many thanks for your kind words!
 
As you wanted - some pics from the modelling of blocks.
     
First step: Drill in to holes at the end of the slots.
Second step: milling the slot in between the to holes

Next: forming the block by sanding
 

File in the groove for the metal fitting and drill in the hole for the axis of the sheave.

The fitting with its eyelet. 1mm brass soldered with silver

The finished block. The sheaves are made from 8mm aluminum

some pics of the rigging jobs.
 
the shrouds

 
The two back stays
 

 
 

 
Best regads Hartmut
 
 
 
 
 
 

Aye, Mates,
some pics from the last weeks. Next job is the modeling of the mast.
 
first parts to make were the chainplates. 2mm brass square tube. The eyes  are silver soldered.
 

 
The full channel
 

 
To turn the lower mast I had to extend the machine bottom of the lace.
 

 
The masthound.  Making this octagonal part by sanding on the milling machine.
 

 

 
The throat halliyard block . pearwood and aluminium
 

 
The lower mast
 

 
 
Next part: the bow sprit flagg stuff. A nice piece to make.

 

 

 

 

 

 
Best regards
 
Hartmut
 
 
 

Hello  PatricK!  Many thanks for your kind words!
 
As you wanted - some pics from the modelling of blocks.
     
First step: Drill in to holes at the end of the slots.
Second step: milling the slot in between the to holes

Next: forming the block by sanding
 

File in the groove for the metal fitting and drill in the hole for the axis of the sheave.

The fitting with its eyelet. 1mm brass soldered with silver

The finished block. The sheaves are made from 8mm aluminum

some pics of the rigging jobs.
 
the shrouds

 
The two back stays
 

 
 

 
Best regads Hartmut
 
 
 
 
 
 

Aye, Mates,
some pics from the last weeks. Next job is the modeling of the mast.
 
first parts to make were the chainplates. 2mm brass square tube. The eyes  are silver soldered.
 

 
The full channel
 

 
To turn the lower mast I had to extend the machine bottom of the lace.
 

 
The masthound.  Making this octagonal part by sanding on the milling machine.
 

 

 
The throat halliyard block . pearwood and aluminium
 

 
The lower mast
 

 
 
Next part: the bow sprit flagg stuff. A nice piece to make.

 

 

 

 

 

 
Best regards
 
Hartmut
 
 
 

Hello Patrick and Brian. Many thanks for your kind words!
 
Brian - The Dutch have built statenjachts from the beginning of 17.century to the end of the 18. The leeboards were used in the Netherlands from the sixteens century. All drawings and paintings from this times I know shows the leeboards. Fx. van der Velde shows in teh 17.century many of this nobel ships, and all of them had leebords. Also the plans of such ships from the 18.century. Also the plans by Pieter van Zwijndregt, van Genth and others ( Maritim Museum Rotterdamm ) shows this components.And the Mary? She was a typical  dutch statenjacht. Therefore I think that she had leebords.
I think you are right in this. In that time shipwrights,, whole in Europe, I mean,were very conservative constructors.
 
Best regards 
 
Hartmut
 
 

Aye, Mates,
some pics from the last weeks. Next job is the modeling of the mast.
 
first parts to make were the chainplates. 2mm brass square tube. The eyes  are silver soldered.
 

 
The full channel
 

 
To turn the lower mast I had to extend the machine bottom of the lace.
 

 
The masthound.  Making this octagonal part by sanding on the milling machine.
 

 

 
The throat halliyard block . pearwood and aluminium
 

 
The lower mast
 

 
 
Next part: the bow sprit flagg stuff. A nice piece to make.

 

 

 

 

 

 
Best regards
 
Hartmut
 
 
 

Aye, Mates,
some pics from the last weeks. Next job is the modeling of the mast.
 
first parts to make were the chainplates. 2mm brass square tube. The eyes  are silver soldered.
 

 
The full channel
 

 
To turn the lower mast I had to extend the machine bottom of the lace.
 

 
The masthound.  Making this octagonal part by sanding on the milling machine.
 

 

 
The throat halliyard block . pearwood and aluminium
 

 
The lower mast
 

 
 
Next part: the bow sprit flagg stuff. A nice piece to make.

 

 

 

 

 

 
Best regards
 
Hartmut
 
 
 

Hello Patrick and Brian. Many thanks for your kind words!
 
Brian - The Dutch have built statenjachts from the beginning of 17.century to the end of the 18. The leeboards were used in the Netherlands from the sixteens century. All drawings and paintings from this times I know shows the leeboards. Fx. van der Velde shows in teh 17.century many of this nobel ships, and all of them had leebords. Also the plans of such ships from the 18.century. Also the plans by Pieter van Zwijndregt, van Genth and others ( Maritim Museum Rotterdamm ) shows this components.And the Mary? She was a typical  dutch statenjacht. Therefore I think that she had leebords.
I think you are right in this. In that time shipwrights,, whole in Europe, I mean,were very conservative constructors.
 
Best regards 
 
Hartmut
 
 

Yes, Carl is right! Fast on the german Autobahn?  In the 80. and 90. you can drive realy fast. But today? Most are 120km/h the aloud limit. But however, nice to have you back again.
 
Cheers Hartmut

HAllo Nils,
 
congrats to you. Your Kaiser is a masterpiece of carftmanship and quality in work:
 
Best regards
 
 
Hartmut

HAllo Nils,
 
congrats to you. Your Kaiser is a masterpiece of carftmanship and quality in work:
 
Best regards
 
 
Hartmut

HAllo Nils,
 
congrats to you. Your Kaiser is a masterpiece of carftmanship and quality in work:
 
Best regards
 
 
Hartmut

Many thanks to Nils and all the likes!
 
There are a lot of little thing which must be modeled for such a little ship. And its a great fun to make this parts.
First the flaggstaff of the pavillon

 

To prevent this faltbottom ship from drifting sideways leebords are used.
 
The leebords are composite pieces of wood, reinforced and holded together by iron and iron bolts.   The dutch shipwrights found out that the leebords performed better when they are placed somewhere forward or aft.
 

 

The fittings at which the leebords can be moved forward or backward.  Brass soldered with silver
 

ver
 
Most of the blocks of this dutch ships carried metallfittings.  I have made the first blocks for the leebord halliard.  Also from brass soldered with silver.


 

 
The leebord on portside.
 

 

 

 
And the leebord on starbord.
 

 

 
Best regards Hartmut
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks to all for the kind words and the likes!
 
Next step was modelling  the rudder.
 
Bevor I could install the rudder I had to paint the under water parts of the Utrecht
 

Next step was to make the rudder blade and the hinges
 

 

 

I havemade the hinges from 0,5mm brass with 2,1mm diameter bras tubes, soldered with silver.
 

 
The tiller, made from matall, goes from the rudder shaft under the pavillons bottom to the main deck.
 

 
At last the rudder after mounting 
 

 

 
Best regards
 
Hartmut
 

Hello, mates!
 
we, my Admiral and me, returned from a 14 days journey on board of the Richard With, a ship of the norwegian HurtigRuten. A very  impressive time from Bergen (Nor) to Kirkenes and back to Bergen.
But now its time to continue modelling the Utrecht.  The last parts on deck. Some cleats and the skylight of the big cabin. To make this part was an most interesting job. It is eight cornerd.
 

 


 
ANd her is a pic all over the deck
 

 
Cheers  Hartmut
 

Hello Guys!
 
Thanks for the kind words to my works!
 
Here again some pics of further details.
To make the railing around the stairs was a special pleasure, since I have not worked with metal for a long time. It's from 3 and 2mm brass, soldered with silver solder.

 
On the supports came still a few balls,which comes close to the baroque style.
 

And here are the other parts which are new on deck. Four cleats, two pin racks and the bearings of the leeboards
 

 
Have a nice weekend!
 Cheers
 
Hartmut