mrshanks
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mrshanks reacted to slow2cool in REVENGE by John Maguire - Amati/Victory Models - build in the Cougar Mountain Shipyard
I have not been doing this for a long time but, I would say that Brian is spot on. I can't think of any thing else.
If you can spile, spile. If you can't look for softer wood.
I have to say, it takes a lot of determanation to sand away the work you have done.
Joe
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mrshanks reacted to GuntherMT in REVENGE by John Maguire - Amati/Victory Models - build in the Cougar Mountain Shipyard
Spile or edge bending are really the only two options. Since it will eventually be black, use a wood that doesn't splinter like walnut when edge bent (basswood, but it's soft, or boxwood or pear maybe). Chuck Passaro's build log on the Cheerful has a video in it somewhere showing how to edge bend planks with a 'bending station' (i.e. a 1 x 6 and some clamps) and a blow dryer or heat gun.
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mrshanks reacted to Elijah in Phantom by Elijah - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:96 - New York Pilot Boat
Hello everyone! I'm back. I am almost done with planking, and some suggestions for different stains would be nice. Thanks! Lastly, it may take me a while to catch up on everyone's builds, and I will be out of town during the next NRMSS meeting. I hope to make the September meeting!
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mrshanks reacted to Elijah in Phantom by Elijah - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:96 - New York Pilot Boat
Hello all. I am going to be gone another week for camp. I will be back in a week!
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mrshanks reacted to John Maguire in Phantom by Elijah - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:96 - New York Pilot Boat
Looking great Elijah. Looks like you have it wired . . .
Respectfully,
John
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mrshanks reacted to DocBlake in Phantom by Elijah - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:96 - New York Pilot Boat
The garboard strake is important, and I think you've got it nailed, Elijah. Often it's allowed to "creep up" the bow, causing trouble in the planking down the line.
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mrshanks reacted to mikiek in Phantom by Elijah - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:96 - New York Pilot Boat
I'll second that!
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mrshanks reacted to vaddoc in Phantom by Elijah - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:96 - New York Pilot Boat
This is a very impressive built Elijah. Your hull has a lovely shape and I am very impressed by your attention to detail and the thoughtful way you carry out the different tasks. Looking forward for the hull and deck planking to be completed, you are doing great.
Regards
vaddoc
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mrshanks reacted to mikiek in Phantom by Elijah - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:96 - New York Pilot Boat
Hey, transom looks good. Don't know if your plans call for it but you could consider some sort of fashion piece. You would have to hand carve it but it is made to sit on that corner of the hull and transom to cover the joint. This pic might give you an idea what I'm talking about.
I got to thinking about the half & half paint/copper idea. I believe several of us have suggested it, my reason was that I hate to see that beautiful wood covered up. What might look pretty nice instead would be to go ahead and copper both sides - doesn't it end right about at the waterline? Then stain (instead of paint) the remaining wood on both sides. A dark stain would give the impression of a black paint job but would add a rich look you just won't get with paint.
Regarding the possible curve of the garboard. Don't forget that even if the gap does start to close up quicker than you anticipated, there are planking techniques to deal with that. A drop plank, where 2 planks turn into 1 right at the bow, can help that situation. I get the feeling you will probably have to do at least a few stealers as well. The deadwood area at the stern looks like it will end up wider than the rest of the hull. No fault of yours, just the design of the boat. I found the basic planking document in the MSW library very helpful in that regard. It gives a good description of what they called correction planks..
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mrshanks reacted to EJ_L in Phantom by Elijah - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:96 - New York Pilot Boat
It looks good to me! Mistakes are just opportunities to learn and we never stop learning.
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mrshanks reacted to Elijah in Phantom by Elijah - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:96 - New York Pilot Boat
Thanks for the comments and advice guys! Here are some pictures of the garboard. I did some measuring and such, and it looks to me like I have enough room to keep my planks at the width that they are at. There is also a picture of my transom. I know it is a little uneven as the planks make the twist, but I don't think the difference will show with paint on one side, and I am going to try to even it out. The reason it ended up this way was because early on planking I was not measuring the full distance needing planking. A beginner will make mistakes at some point. I plan on not making that mistake next build, mostly because I doubt I will paint the hull . Lastly, I am going to copper the whole keel, as not to show dents from carving rabbets and not to show the spacer I have. Anything above the waterline will be visible. I also apologize for not viewing all of your build logs. I will catch up on them when half the hull is planked, and then I will get back to planking.
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mrshanks reacted to DocBlake in Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale.
Naw, Brian. This is an AL kit. The plans are more "suggestions" than actual plans! I'll have to guess on the waterline. What do you think of the color scheme (holly with stem, keel, sternpost and rudder and planking below the wale to the waterline of pear)?
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mrshanks reacted to GuntherMT in Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale.
Dave - the waterline should be on one of the plans. If it's not.. well, I have no idea then, but I would expect it to be on the plan sheet that was used for the initial construction of the hull, not the rigging or sail plan sheet which is what it appears you are showing.
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mrshanks reacted to DocBlake in Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale.
I'm starting to rethink what I want to do in terms of hull planking. Originally, planking above the top wale was to be pear, between the top and bottom wale was boxwood, and planning below the bottom wale as well as the stem, keel and stern post were to be pear also. This is what Clare Hess did, and it makes for a handsome model (photo 1). In his practicum for a kit-bashed "Rattlesnake", Bob hunt shows a planking technique that simulates the white anti-fouling coating below the water line on these ships. One builder (photo 2) used pear above and holly below the waterline (photo 2). That's what I would like to do. I don't plan to show the framing as in photo 2, but I would like to use the pear and holly combination.
If I use the holly, can I still use pear for the stem, keel, sternpost and rudder, or do I need to switch to a more subdued wood like boxwood? I think the contrast between the holly and the pear would actually look cool, if not historically accurate.
How do I determine where the waterline falls? I've added a photo of the plans, and as you can see the keel slopes downward as it moves aft.
What do you all think?
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mrshanks reacted to captgino in Armed Virginia Sloop by captgino - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1/48
Installed the waterways and started planking the transom.
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mrshanks reacted to DocBlake in Armed Virginia Sloop by captgino - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1/48
Good start on the planking. Your hull looks like it's faired nicely - it should be smooth sailing!
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mrshanks reacted to DocBlake in REVENGE by John Maguire - Amati/Victory Models - build in the Cougar Mountain Shipyard
John: What type of wood is the finished planking? Soft woods like pine require a conditioner to prevent "splotchiness". Even cherry sometimes. If the wood is walnut, just stain away! You'll be fine. Just be sure there is no glue residue on the planking. It will block the stain from penetrating.
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mrshanks reacted to mtaylor in REVENGE by John Maguire - Amati/Victory Models - build in the Cougar Mountain Shipyard
John,
Pop those questions in Painting and Finishing area as I have no idea about sanding sealer or the various finishes and stains.. I'm a pure Wipe-on-Poly type myself. Here's a link to it: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/21-painting-finishing-and-weathering-products-and-techniques/
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mrshanks reacted to DocBlake in Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale.
I glued the stem together. I still need to drill the hole for the bobstay and the gammoning hole.
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mrshanks reacted to John Maguire in Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale.
Nice, Doc . . .
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mrshanks reacted to donrobinson in Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale.
That's going to look real good Dave. Nice work
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mrshanks reacted to DocBlake in Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale.
Thanks, guys!
Mike: The hull is 17-1/4" long with a 5" beam. By contrast, the Lauck Street AVS Patrick Henry is 22" long with a 6-1/2" beam. This is a pretty big model of a pretty small boat!
Next I started in on replacing the stock stem, keel and stern post. Those parts are made of walnut in the kit and are shown in the first photo. They are OK, but I wanted the hull planking and those parts made of pear, so they needed to be redone. The stem was a single piece, and the keel is three sections, scarfed together. I traced the stem on a piece of paper. I'm not a naval architect, but the second photo shows my proposed layout for a built up stem. I think it looks OK and makes logical sense.
I cut out all the parts, shown in the the third photo. I need to fine-tune the fit, blacken the joints to simulate caulk, and glue the parts together. The kit has no false keel, but after thinking about it, I think I'll add one made of rosewood...just for the contrast in wood colors!
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mrshanks reacted to KenW in Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale.
I agree that that metal transom belongs in the garbage. I can't wait to see what you use as its replacement. Are you going to carve a new transom?
Hope you include a lot of photos of your process.
Cheers.
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mrshanks reacted to DocBlake in Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale.
I finally finished the first planking and sanded the hull smooth. The hull came out pretty well. There were only a few places where I really needed the wood putty! In a bright light, though a few more showed up so I'll patch them tomorrow. I painted the great cabin interior black because I'm going to totally redo the transom and put some real wooden lights back there. The ridiculous stamped metal transom supplied with the kit goes into the garbage.
The stem, Keel, sternpost and second planking are pear. The next task is to make a built-up stem piece and attach it to the model, along with the 3 part scarfed keel and the stern post.
The planking at the counter is a little odd. I think the counter should really start where I drew the red line. That means I need to smooth the plank below the line and bring the second layer of planking up to the red line. I say that because the model has a fashion piece a that sits on the wale (like the MS AVS). The wale is superimposed on the second plank down in the photo
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mrshanks reacted to RGL in HMS Dreadnought 1907 by RGL - FINISHED - Zvezda - 1/350- PLASTIC
Gunther, I can only assume it is to diffuse the heat plume from the stacks. A bit of research on Dr Goigle seems to indicate this but I'm sure there are a few engineers here that could elaborate on this.
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