IgorSky

Thanks bob, I am looking at the cable damage and have some thoughts that I will have to make my own to make it match
 

 

 
the last picture shows some 34 gauge copper wire and some control line stranded it is a little heavier but the difference in the look of both types leads me to think I will need to make up some strands of cable using my rope making skills 
 

 
Michael

Hi Nils yes the original base had a narrow footprint and the model was knocked over, this was the first image that I saw. It looks like a few of the rectangular port holes got swept up with all the broken glass,when they cleaned up the area.
 

 
Druxey, I fear you are correct on this score, I also notice that the hull was brush painted (very well I might add)
 
 
Denis The credit goes to Brian Small, we have crossed paths on a number of occasions related to models, on this site as well as some others, the client contacted Brian and Brian contacted me.
 
 
Scott I would think that they had a very sinking feeling.
 
 
Denis funny you should mention the lifeboats, I woke up in the middle of the night and I started to think about what I had let myself in for and specifically thought about the lifeboats, it was a standard practice in England to use Jellutong for a lot of small parts like these, and I just happen to have lots of scrap bits of Jellutong. I plan to scarph in small bits and re-carve those areas. 
 
Michael

I was recently commissioned to restore to "Original Condition" A 1:100 model of the steamship Albertic. The model was knocked over and sustained considerable damage to the port side lifeboat deck Funnels and railings along with vents and all sorts of lines and wire stays.
 
I have made extensive photographs of the condition as I received it, and have begun recording the removal of the damaged parts that were still attached, A few surprises that were not evident when I viewed it at the clients premises have come to light.
I cobbled together a quick trolley so that I can move the model around, I will make a lightweight dust cover to keep the dust off the model.
 
I will no doubt be calling on the expertise of the membership for advice as I move forward.
 
As tragic as the damage is I am hoping that this will be a good experience and that I  rise to the occasion with a smile as things become repaired.
 
here are a few pictures to show the extent of my task.
 
Builders Name plate

 
Port side sustained the most damage
 

 
Starboard side suffered mostly inertial damage
 

 
The funnels took a beating because they are heavy and brass
 

 
A lot of loose parts were piled on the deck in front of the bridge
 

 
The stern end of the port lifeboat deck is badly bent and twisted
 

 
The stairs didn't fair too well either
 

 
Below the port lifeboat deck is the most damage on the hull I am really hoping that this area can be reworked without having to repaint the entire side, we will see?
 

 
A box of the loose pieces now lifted off the ship
 

 
Ouch
 

 
This will keep me busy over the next couple of three months. As I was removing all the big loose parts I was noticing how much of the fine lines and wire cables have also been damaged. many of the parts were attached with micro brass pins, all the lifeboat davits for instance.
 
Michael
 
 

I had handled the sandpaper these parts and in the end I got the boat hull.
 

Then I made a billet for the underwater part of the hull from the two pieces of the red hornbeam.
 

Then I made a water line from a piece of white plastic.
 

Choosing a boat and lighthouse prototypes came somehow by itself - I like this combination in a long time and I even tried to draw them.
So, I started this project with the building of boat. Based on the size of the interior space, the scale is around 1/3000.
I started to build a boat in almost the same technology as the rest of my models. First I made the deck from several small strips of pear, which I previously whittle away with sandpaper to 0.3 mm. The deck is also the basis for the above-water part of the body. Then I glued the boards of black hornbeam.
 

Hi everyones!

First of all I want to thank to Piet. His miniature diorama in some way inspired me to this mini project.

From time to time I have a desire to try their skills in the direction of further miniaturization of shipbuilding in bottles. Here, a short history of one of these small projects.
The flask with strange shapes, reminiscent of a heart with an asymmetrical arrangement of the neck, lying in a drawer of my desk for a long time, but I did not have any specific ideas for using it as a receptacle for the construction of a model in a bottle ... And then ... As always, the idea came unexpectedly - sea, rock, lighthouse, boat.
On this photo this flask is in the center

Many thanks, Mark!

Hi Bob!
At this time I am prepared more carefully the algorithm of building model in a bottle and drew the scheme for it. 
And I remember the main rule - do not rush! In the words of one of the ancient Chinese sages:to hurry - it is to do slow motions without stopping.
But as I said earlier, I felt horror, when I was looking at the slipway with the upper part of the hull and was seeing is this large number of yarns.
 

Many thanks, Mark!

Hi Don, I struggled getting info about the engine, This website
Has some useful info, it took a little digging but there is a lot there. Regarding the builders of the era you mention, again I had spent a great deal of time searching The wooden boat forum was a good resource.
 
Lawrence, thanks for your compliments, I'm down with a flu like cold right now and managed to get my big boat out last Sunday, after a San Juan 28 mast crashed onto the fore-deck punching a hole and smashing the mahogany Coaming....my sailing season ended with a bang as they say.
 

 
It looks like we will be here for another winter, so I hope to get some time in the shop again soon, I have a project coming up that involves a restoration, it will give me a little pocket money and I will start a log of it when I pick it up next week.
 
Now back to bed.
 
Michael

I have given this a lot of thought and have spent some time revisiting the number of bulkheads. I'm probably just second guessing myself at this point.
 
I am thinking that I might change the number of bulkheads by adding a few more.
 
I have also updated my drawing of the body profiles using Corel Draw version 17 which has some features that I used to use changed, and new features added, that I have to learn. Its that old dog new tricks thing.  Overall I like the way it has changed from my version 11
 

 
body profiles for forum post.pdf
 
My gut is telling me I will be doing a bit more form work before the ribands get added.
 
I am happy with the way the stern post turned out. sorry about the shaky i phone pics
 

 

 
 
Michael
 
 
 
 

This is beyond amazing, Igor.  So much detail on such a tiny ship.   Marvelous.

I have two kinds from our local outdoors store first is Soft Wire Copper Extra Fine W-C-XF comes in around .002"
Second is Soft Wire Silver Medium W-S-M comes in around .003"
I have seen even finer stuff at jewerly supply stores of which I will probably purchase along with the Veevus.
Also I think one of the guys on this site mentioned the rewind copper from small electrical motors as well.

I have tried using wire for rigging and rarely had decent results.  I must be handling it the wrong way or using the wrong wire.  What is best for something really small models. I remember miniatures I have seen where fly tying thread and a very hin wire was used.  But I have forgoten the guage and material.
David B

Yes I have lots of UNI-Thread in different colors however I must get some Veevus. Attached is Lady Prevost 1:300 scale utilizing UNI-Thread.  
Jeff

Thanks foer being a mentor !

Oh, Carl, I think that our communication here is a good way to learn from each other. 

Thank you Mike!
Yes, you are right! This gel becomes clean after drying.

Hi Bob!
At this time I am prepared more carefully the algorithm of building model in a bottle and drew the scheme for it. 
And I remember the main rule - do not rush! In the words of one of the ancient Chinese sages:to hurry - it is to do slow motions without stopping.
But as I said earlier, I felt horror, when I was looking at the slipway with the upper part of the hull and was seeing is this large number of yarns.
 

Many thanks for your compliments, Carl! But, of course, I'm just learning
 

Oh, thank you very much, Michael!
I have always with admiration watch your build logs, and, of course, I try to learn from you too!
 
With my best regards!
Igor.

Well, I finally fixed and cut the last thread. I can relax and take a photo of the model with her spars and rigging through the bottle wall. Now, I still have time to clean the inside of the bottle, finalize the design of the cork, and other things associated with the blockage of the bottle.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next to me was necessary to sort out the threads, temporarily fasten the ends on the outside of the bottle with tape, and, slowly, begin their stretching, fixing, and cutting excess.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Well, that's ... I went to the most interesting and dreary part of the whole construction - installation of mast and tension of the rigging inside the bottle. 
The boom is made movable, so I picked the mast with sails in a compact package and put it all into the neck of the bottle. Then I put the mast in a hole in deck. As a result, I got a not fixed mast and a bunch of threads coming out of the throat of the bottle.