jbshan
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jbshan got a reaction from bluenose2 in Deck planking
Maybe a bone-straight, grade A select 2 by 4. The grain might defeat you though. It isn't apparent, but the grain is coarse enough to drag your tools off course, and it will allow an edged tool like a plane or scraper to work in one direction and not the other. Get two planks glued down adjacent that the grain runs in the opposite direction and it might be interesting.
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jbshan got a reaction from bluenose2 in Deck planking
John, Les (in Canada) is probably only going to find poplar in the 'Quaking Aspen' variety, 'populus tremuloides', (although there is also a 'Canadensis' hybrid of 'black poplar'). This is a softer whitish hardwood with unobtrusive grain, used for many wood products, furniture, pulp for paper, toothpicks, chopsticks, match boxes, snowboards and electric guitars among others. The green tinged 'Poplar' is a higher quality wood and is from an unrelated genus. 'Tremuloides' is a boreal forest tree so northern and colder climates. It turns Rocky Mountain hillsides a bright yellow in the fall.
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jbshan got a reaction from Nirvana in US Brig Niagara by mikiek - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build
If you can get to the plugged hole with a drill, drill the epoxy out of the hole.
I would have used printer paper wrapped around the mast a few times with an eyebolt in the appropriate place. I dampen the paper with glue before wrapping and it softens enough to follow the shape as I do the wrap. Glues itself, too. You can paint after or use black paper.
I know some people swear by it despite many cautions, but I would not let CA anywhere near a model.
Metal to wood, use epoxy. If you can, heat it (you said above you were getting a torch soon, yes?) so it can form without spring back.
The bands on these anchors are paper. It stretches enough when damp to go around the non-parallel sides of the stock.
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jbshan got a reaction from Nirvana in US Brig Niagara by mikiek - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build
You will find you sometimes need to go back and forth from the text to the plates also, and many of the plates have several things shown. Take your time, make sure you understand everything before moving on. It's invaluable, just for a basic understanding. Be aware also that Lever sometimes shows several solutions to the same problem. That's where you'll want to go back to the plans, which are some of the best, to eliminate alternative setups.
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jbshan got a reaction from Nirvana in US Brig Niagara by mikiek - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build
Underhill's too late, as you have discovered, while Lever is right in the time frame. Pay particular attention to Lever's descriptions on raising the masts. If you can make yours to be able to do that, you'll be 90% there.
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jbshan got a reaction from Nirvana in US Brig Niagara by mikiek - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build
For the masts, a copy of Darcy Lever, 'The Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor' is indispensable. Model Expo usually carries it in a Dover edition, c. $20.
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jbshan reacted to mikiek in US Brig Niagara by mikiek - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build
Thank you Joel. I'm pretty happy with them or at least how I envision them. Somewhere I saw where the troughs were closed off with a slab of wood at each end. From the pix I see I still need to clean up the ends - terminate the rails at the stanchion.
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jbshan reacted to Captain Al in Mayflower by RichieG - Model Shipways MS2020
I can tell that I have much more studying to do and probably more hands on experimenting before i truly understand this rabbet stuff. Now I know why magicians use rabbits.
If I am not mistaken, this kit with the glued on rabbet strip is providing a shortcut way of making a rabbet for the garboard strake to fit into. In most of the kits and tutorials I've seen this rabbet needs to be carved into the false keel at ever increasing angles from the center to the stern. Since I'm a total dunce at understanding drawings and diagrams, I'm going to have to make some mock ups from scrap wood to see what it is I'm trying to accomplish.
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jbshan got a reaction from Nirvana in US Brig Niagara by mikiek - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build
They look pretty good, Mike. You can tie a couple of ropes across the ends to close up the troughs, and don't forget if needed you can do them at an angle for clearance.
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jbshan got a reaction from Chuck Seiler in Deck planking
Maybe a bone-straight, grade A select 2 by 4. The grain might defeat you though. It isn't apparent, but the grain is coarse enough to drag your tools off course, and it will allow an edged tool like a plane or scraper to work in one direction and not the other. Get two planks glued down adjacent that the grain runs in the opposite direction and it might be interesting.
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jbshan reacted to mikiek in US Brig Niagara by mikiek - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build
Rigging hammocks is almost as tough as gun tackles. Talk about repetition. I've made 55 of the little guys and I'm not even finished with the port side yet. The forward stanchion assembly went in without incident. Now I just gotta fill it up. Pretty much as I figured, it will take about 75 per side. They look a little disorderly now as I have not glued them yet. I feel pretty confident that when I do I can get them lined up nicely.
So far I'm still glad I went with this approach.
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jbshan got a reaction from mtaylor in To build structures over the decking or plank around them
And ... having said all that, what you have seems to be a pond yacht. Those are sometimes restored with a fine finish rather than as a strictly scale model. In that case, I would suggest using the current deck surface, mounting the structures on top, to preserve the appearance of the nice piece of wood making up the hull or deck surface.
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jbshan got a reaction from mtaylor in To build structures over the decking or plank around them
Prototype practice would be to install the structures then plank up to them. It gives a better seating for the framework of the structures, makes the caulking of the deck more efficacious and allows for the replacement of deck planks without disturbing the structures. Having said that, many build their models the other way around.
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jbshan got a reaction from Canute in NRG's Original Shop Notes Reprinted
I have to echo and reinforce Kurt's recommendation for both editions. They aren't a be-all and end-all of model building, but there's tons of stuff in each volume, organized in sections for ease of reference, and they are spiral-bound so they open flat for ease of use in the shop where you may have glunk on your hands and don't want to have to hold a book open.
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jbshan got a reaction from mtaylor in NRG's Original Shop Notes Reprinted
I have to echo and reinforce Kurt's recommendation for both editions. They aren't a be-all and end-all of model building, but there's tons of stuff in each volume, organized in sections for ease of reference, and they are spiral-bound so they open flat for ease of use in the shop where you may have glunk on your hands and don't want to have to hold a book open.
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jbshan reacted to RichieG in Mayflower by RichieG - Model Shipways MS2020
agreed, Joel, re: sanding char. I didn't meant to use the bulkhead char exclusively for fairing. The laid batten should definitely be used to get the final shape. But for initial roughing out, I think the char is useful. At least, it helps prevent you from taking too much off too early accidentally.
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jbshan reacted to druxey in To build structures over the decking or plank around them
Seems a pity to 'augment' a nice vintage pond yacht, rather than cleaning and touching up obvious damage. The model was never intended to imitate a true scale yacht.
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jbshan got a reaction from RichieG in Mayflower by RichieG - Model Shipways MS2020
Edge bending doesn't work well until the plank approaches a square cross-section. It causes a lifting of one edge which can be hard to get rid of after the plank is on the hull. Try it with your paper strips, it'll show up soon enough.
The char isn't bonded very well any more with the wood it came from, so glue can be problematical. I have used it to help indicate the shape when fairing the hull, although a batten laid on the formers is more accurate, and you may have to dub off or pad out some places. The char won't show you those places. You will probably in many instances want to get the edge back to square; the laser cuts a slight bevel into the edge. I have used a machinist's square as a scraper to keep the edge squared up, on other places than just the char as well.
I have a model sitting on the shelf that I 'inherited' and the first person working on it followed instructions and glued the keel on before cutting the rabbet. (That's the process Richie is describing.) Unless I debond the keel I will have to try to shape the rabbet with keel in place, far more difficult than before it is installed.
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jbshan got a reaction from RichieG in Mayflower by RichieG - Model Shipways MS2020
You might be able to cut and fit all three clinker planks, starting or at least keeping in mind the shape of the top one before gluing any of them on. Use paper or thin card to make patterns before you 'waste' a lot of wood with rejects. If you have some dividers or a compass, hold up a strip of card, taping it to hold it in place, wider than you will need, and mark the top edge to match the rail. When you have the top matching the rail, mark and cut to an even width. Work out the overlap between planks and mark the second from the first, with a little extra for the lap, etc. When you have them all fitting, make them of your thin wood. You might want to wet them a bit first and hold them onto the hull until dry before you glue them in. Mark and measure about four times what you think you need to. Welcome to the wonderful world of planking.
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jbshan got a reaction from RichieG in Mayflower by RichieG - Model Shipways MS2020
Your 'oarlocks' are 'thole pins' and are merely pegs or short lengths of small dowel. Just drill holes and stick them in. On the plans you show, there is also a short length of a 'wash strake' associated with the thole pins, which you would make from scrap strips. Again looking at the plans, it is a flat bottom and the footboards are laid right on the frames. Chuck's good. Most of, if not all of what you need is there, if you hunt for it, checking all the views of the particular feature.
As far as doing a bread and butter boat (and yes, the wood is the bread and glue is the butter), I have done one, I didn't like it because I'm no sort of carver and now I do them from scratch plank on frame. A correspondent at the time advised to make the hull thin enough and even enough to look like an eggshell when held up to the light. The plank was less than an inch thick, so in your scale, less than 1/64" thick, just for future reference.
A ship's boat of this time frame was never intended for saving life, as you point out it's far too small and there's only one of them. It was solely for transportation, ship to shore or ship to ship. It was also used for bringing stores out to the ship, water, vittles, firewood, etc.
If you follow the link in my signature, there should be a couple of pics of my ship's boat for Lexington of 1776, just to show one example.
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jbshan got a reaction from Tigersteve in Mayflower by RichieG - Model Shipways MS2020
Your 'oarlocks' are 'thole pins' and are merely pegs or short lengths of small dowel. Just drill holes and stick them in. On the plans you show, there is also a short length of a 'wash strake' associated with the thole pins, which you would make from scrap strips. Again looking at the plans, it is a flat bottom and the footboards are laid right on the frames. Chuck's good. Most of, if not all of what you need is there, if you hunt for it, checking all the views of the particular feature.
As far as doing a bread and butter boat (and yes, the wood is the bread and glue is the butter), I have done one, I didn't like it because I'm no sort of carver and now I do them from scratch plank on frame. A correspondent at the time advised to make the hull thin enough and even enough to look like an eggshell when held up to the light. The plank was less than an inch thick, so in your scale, less than 1/64" thick, just for future reference.
A ship's boat of this time frame was never intended for saving life, as you point out it's far too small and there's only one of them. It was solely for transportation, ship to shore or ship to ship. It was also used for bringing stores out to the ship, water, vittles, firewood, etc.
If you follow the link in my signature, there should be a couple of pics of my ship's boat for Lexington of 1776, just to show one example.
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jbshan reacted to Tigersteve in Mayflower by RichieG - Model Shipways MS2020
If it were me I would get replacements from them on all the sheets that are warped. I have this kit too in waiting. I'm sure there's other solutions. They are good with sending replacements. Might take a little time though.
Steve
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jbshan got a reaction from thibaultron in NRG's Original Shop Notes Reprinted
I have to echo and reinforce Kurt's recommendation for both editions. They aren't a be-all and end-all of model building, but there's tons of stuff in each volume, organized in sections for ease of reference, and they are spiral-bound so they open flat for ease of use in the shop where you may have glunk on your hands and don't want to have to hold a book open.
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jbshan reacted to kurtvd19 in NRG's Original Shop Notes Reprinted
The original Ship Modeler’s Shop Notes first published by the NRG in 1979 and out of print for several years is being reprinted and will be ready for sale by early April.
The original Ship Modeler’s Shop Notes contains “Shop Notes” and some longer articles from the first 25 years, Volume 1 to Volume 25, (1980) of the quarterly Nautical Research Journal. This book has been described as a book that ship modeler’s must have.
This is a completely separate book from Ship Modeler’s Shop Notes II published in 2009 – SN2 covers Volumes 26 – 50 (1981-2005). If you have Shop Notes II we are sure you will want to add the original to your library and if you don’t have either, now is the time to get both.
Be sure to contact the office for the member’s discount code that will save you $5.00 off the list price. Save on shipping when you order both Shop Notes (1 & 2). Place your order through the NRG office and pay only one shipping fee of $6 for shipping both copies (US only & to the same address only!).
When the books are in stock we will announce they are available for purchase.
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jbshan got a reaction from RichieG in To build structures over the decking or plank around them
Prototype practice would be to install the structures then plank up to them. It gives a better seating for the framework of the structures, makes the caulking of the deck more efficacious and allows for the replacement of deck planks without disturbing the structures. Having said that, many build their models the other way around.
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