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  1. I think you did great under the time pressure. And you motivated me to get moving on my Mayflower. I've been at it at least a year off and on, and I'm well behind you. But your log helped me figure some things out. How did you paint those gold swirly shapes on the beakhead? Freehand?
  2. JP, continues to look great! I love the idea of cutting an opening in the false deck under the grating! It lets in some light so that you can actually see the capstan under there! Just a small point: don't forget to put some stanchions along the inside of the transom.
  3. nicely done! great details on the bulkheads! but, I think you made a mistake with the sizing of the hatch on the forecastle deck. I believe that you're meant to put the pieces on the outside of the marks on the false deck rather than on the inside. Stuntflyer did the same thing on his build log, and chuck corrected him. (I think they belong to the same club, and he may have shown it to him at a meeting, but there are pictures before and after the correction on his log, if you want to check it out.) It might be a purely cosmetic thing, except that there's a point later on where you actually have to work through the opening in that hatch, and it's probably tough enough with the hatch the correct size. It'll be near impossible to work through a smaller opening, I'd wager!
  4. agreed, this is rapid progress, and looks great! (It took me months to get to this point!) I'm looking forward to seeing you catch up and pass me!
  5. Hi David, Any progress on the Mayflower? There's precious few of us building this particular model here, so every one counts!
  6. I started putting in the stanchions at the stern of the ship first, and worked my way forward. (I'm a bit less than halfway done with them.) The first picture also shows the great bulkhead and the poop bulkhead in place, with the window and door hardware. I skipped ahead a bit, and put the deck beam in front of the great cabin bulkhead (you can see that in the first picture too). The first two pictures also show the deck with treenails after staining, which I think brings it out nicely. The third picture shows the side windows and the preplanking on one side.
  7. I glued on the bulwarks (or what I'd call the 'side pieces') uneventfully (I thought). I think they were meant to line up with the tops of the forward bulkhead and the transom, but I found that I was over an eighth of an inch low in the front, and over an eighth of an inch high in the back. I was left with the option of raising the side piece in front and lowering it in back, or raising the transom and lowering the forward bulkhead. I opted in both cases to leave the side pieces as they were, and to alter the front and back to match. (the pictures show the forward bulkhead well above the bulwark before alteration, and then the forward bulkhead sanded down to match. In the picture of the back of the boat, you can hopefully see where the transom originally ended, and where it was built up. The new top pieces don't have treenails in them.)
  8. I've been working on the mayflower sporadically, but I've been very lazy with updating the log. (I noticed that someone else is planning to start this kit, so I wanted to update the log in case it might be helpful.) As far as teenailing, I went the route of drilling holes (I think it was with a .6 or .8 mm drill bit), rubbing a sharp pencil tip along the edges, and filling with wood filler. Then staining the whole thing with a 50/50 mix of minwaxes natural/golden oak. These pictures show images along the process. The stain brings out the treenails nicely, I think (they are fairly subtle in the pre-stain stage)
  9. First of all, I think you've been doing great with this model. I got hung up on drilling those holes through some of the deck pieces; if the hole wasn't perfectly centered, it was too close to one side, and that tended to break through. (At the time, I only had one drill, so I didn't have the option to start small and work gradually up as you did, but that is the best way to go, I'm sure). The brass straps that you have in the picture look nice. I assume that you're talking about having trouble with the brass wire? As I recall, there wasn't any need to 'lathe' it; you just have to cut it to length (I used a regular hand-held wire cutter), and maybe round over the ends so they don't have any sharp edges. I just used some relatively rough sandpaper (I think it was 80 or 100 grit) to round over the edges, just laying the paper on the table and holding the wire by hand. The entire wire will be hidden inside the straps, so I don't see much point in doing anything other than that.
  10. would it make a difference if you drill from the outside toward the inside?
  11. I'm leaning away from painting the bottom of the hull white at this point. (I'm open to options at this point, but I was thinking of staining it). I do want to paint the upper part the colors that are described in the manual. And thanks for checking in. I'm probably gonna need some help soon enough...
  12. I've been working on both the hull and the deck at the same time (I have a lot of down time while letting the hull planks dry.) I've almost gotten the hull planked, and I did manage to pretty much achieve my goal of getting a complete run from bow to stern. (it won't really matter, as much of it will be covered up by another layer of planking, but I wanted to see if I could plan ahead well enough to make it work.) My main approach was to keep measuring the gap at each bulkhead as I went, and to use stealers where the gap was bigger. There's room for one more hull plank on the starboard side, but it's going to have to be cut to fit that irregular gap. It's actually wider than 1/8" near the bow (due to my overzealous tapering of the planks in that area), so I'm going to use some leftover 3/16" plank in that area (leftover from the garboard plank). I have room for about 3 more rows on the port side, but I think I'll run into the same issue. In the meantime, I've glued on the gratings and planked pretty much the whole deck (there's one piece left to go on one edge, but it's practically impossible to tell from the picture.) I did use a number 1 pencil for the caulking, and I put it one both sides of each plank (the instructions say to put it on one, but I think that was a little subtle). I am going to treenail the deck. The plan is to drill 0.8mm holes, spin a pencil point in them, and fill them with elmers wood putty, and sand it down flat. Then, I'll stain the whole deck with probably a half natural/half golden oak minwax stain. updates to follow, with any luck...
  13. I'm adding a plank on each side more or less once a day, so I'm up to 9 rows now. I admit that the bow is pretty rough, but I think wood filler and sanding will make a solid surface for the second layer. I also am continuing building off of the garboard plank on one side (I'm limiting it to one side for now to see how it goes, before I commit to the other side.) My goal is to try to get continuous rows of planks all the way from stem to stern, so I'm keeping an eye on the remaining gap up at the bow and amidships. (I know I'll need some stealers at the stern, but that's another story). So far, I think that if I keep tapering the bow planks as I have been, it should work out pretty close. While I'm waiting for planks to dry, I've moved ahead to some of the deck fixings. I made the outer casing for the hatch on the upper deck, and laid in the gratings on one third of it. I did go to the trouble of making lap joints for the coamings, which was actually kind of fun (although I think it won't be seen in the finished product.) For some reason, I decided not to cross-hatch the grating, and I just laid strips on their side. That made the grating thinner, so I did put a 1/32" strip underneath the grating to support it (that's what I was trying to show in the kind of blurry picture.) I think it looks ok like that; honestly it's kind of hard to tell the difference between the real interlaced gratings and the 'just laying there' ones, at least for me.
  14. I was kind of afraid to go ahead and start the hull planking, because I'm not sure that the fairing is ever really finished, but I guess I have to start some time. I did as the instructions said, as far as pinning the bulwark template to both sides and marking its bottom in order to define the top of the first row. It lined up pretty closely to the laser marks on the bulkheads, but there were some discrepancies, which, I guess is why this step is necessary. We're told to taper the front 3 inches of each strip to 80% of its initial width, but, the picture in the manual looks like the first strip went in full width, so I started tapering with the second one. (I think I may have tapered more than 80%, but we're talking less than a 32th of an inch here, and it's hard to be precise. I tried to err on the side of tapering more, with the thought that I can use some full width strips down the way if it needs more coverage.) It was strongly suggested by some that I use filler blocks at the bow, but I chose not to, mostly out of inexperience and laziness. I wet the strips and clamped them in place on the model, and let them dry overnight. They held the curve quite well, with almost no spring back. That being said, I think if I ever had to do this again, I would use the filler blocks, as the planking at the bow is anything but smooth. There are step-offs at each row that will need to be filled and sanded down. But, as they say, all this will be covered up soon enough... I cut the planks around the gun ports as best as I could, but it's harder to keep things square than I thought it would be. I took some pictures of the first 7 rows from the front, middle, and back. I decided to try laying in one of the garboard planks at this point, because it seems like a bit of a process. I used the supplied 3/16" wide strip (50% wider than the rest of the planking), and tapered the front as shown in the manual. I figured that if the next row would be notched over the blunt front end of the garboard plank, then I'd need the front end to be not more than half of the width of the 1/8" wide strips, so I tried to get it to around 1/16". It did require some real bending to push the front end up against the rabbet strip, but I didn't wet it. (I just pushed it in place, and held it until the CA glue took purchase.) a picture of the front end of the garboard is also here.

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