jbshan

The canvas on my pic is basically a 'bag' that sits between the stanchions, with sides, ends and bottom.  I have yet to add two more horizontal runs of line (based on a print I have of a period painting) and still have to work out how to cover the top of everything with a flap to keep the water out.  I think the canvas will have lashings at each stanchion at the level where the lashing lines cross, and perhaps another in the middle where the X's cross.  The cover will be sewn on the outside, with the ends and inside lashed down, perhaps with an overlap as far down as halfway on the stanchions.  All up in the air (or stuck in my head) at the moment.

There was sometimes a thimble lashed to a shroud, a fairlead as it were.

I think he's got it.  Show them a few completely, then they might assume the others are there as well.

#8 from the right, if it has one edge with no teeth is exactly what I use.  You can get right into a corner without making the adjacent side too deep, then you have to come back and square that up, then the other side is too deep, and back and forth until you can drive a truck through what is supposed to be 2 X 2 ft.
Coamings in this period could be as much as 9 inches above deck, maybe a bit more.  When you measure, don't forget to take account of the deck which you haven't laid yet.

See if you can find a flat, non-tapered file with one of the sides smooth, no teeth.  That lets you concentrate on only one side of the cut without worrying about cutting too deep on the side you aren't working on.  Right angles?  You need to develop an eye for it, or some sort of jig or holder that lets you keep your file or sander square.

A big step, closing in the hull.  Congratulations.  A suggestion; don't shake it after to see if anything is loose inside.  You'll want to open it up and take out the loose bit.

Update.....
 
Build log part 52
 
today is the day where the forward boats deck will be permanently glued on. Between brass frame and deck I use CA and  white wood glue between the lower deckhousings and the boatsdeck.
On this part I did not forget to place the connection holding points for the funnel stays. On the lower bridge its a bit tricky to get the convex deck curvature correct and adjusted to the forseen places of the nav light towers, here also used CA, hope its strong enough...
 
Also today a last chance to have a look into the inside of this liner, as it is now closed for ever after. Like on all my ships I put a short note (description, year of build, etc . ) into the hull before closing the last opening.
 
Nils
 

 
little red tags mark the places for putting the clamps on (whist glueing)
 
 

 
last look at the inside of the hull
 
 

 
below the deck to go on....
 
 

 
the nav light towers are the forward "anchoring points" for the boats deck
 
 

 
forecastle deck
 
 

 
 

 
aft deck
 
 

 
deck glued on and clamped down
 
 

 
the boss with the screw is just to curve down the lower bridge wings during glue curing
 
 

 

#8 from the right, if it has one edge with no teeth is exactly what I use.  You can get right into a corner without making the adjacent side too deep, then you have to come back and square that up, then the other side is too deep, and back and forth until you can drive a truck through what is supposed to be 2 X 2 ft.
Coamings in this period could be as much as 9 inches above deck, maybe a bit more.  When you measure, don't forget to take account of the deck which you haven't laid yet.

Hammocks and rail are about complete. In my mind this is a real improvement over haphazardly laying some pillow puffs in the netting. I'm still surprised that a kit maker would recommend that. I didn't take pix as I was building so for those below I kinda pulled it apart to show the various steps. They start with the stanchions already in place. That's pretty much a no-brainer. My only comment is I had to epoxy the nails into the base plank. The stanchions will receive a lot of pressure, bumps, etc. as your building things up and they kept coming loose. Also, there are holes in the stanchion tops to extend a rope and tie it to eyebolts at each end. For some reason I did those first - bad move. Do them as the final step.
 
The netting was purchased at a fabric store - used for veils and the like. They had several choices with larger and smaller holes. I chose the smallest. You will need to measure the inside dimension of the stanchion - from top, down, across and back up. That's how wide your strip of netting should be. If you are cutting on your workbench be careful, the stuff snags on everything. I first tried to fasten the netting to the stanchions with rope - very problematic. I finally glued the netting to the stanchions and then added the rope bindings.
 

 

 
Then based on Joel's pic I added more rope outside the netting. This is just 2 lengths of rope. Start at the top on one end then down, up, down, around, up, down, up and tie off.
 

 
Then an outer "canvas" was added. Was going to add one to the inside as well but I liked being able to fully see the hammock rolls from there. I found very difficult to cut a perfectly straight edge in the material even with the admiral's sewing shears.
 

 
Somewhere I read that the hammocks were bound by 7 turns of a rope. Could have been dreaming but it seemed to fit so that's what I did - the tie offs at each end were included in the count. Joel also suggested that a turn be placed right where the hammocks will be doubled over. Easier said than done, but I did my best. There is an earlier post on how I rolled the hammocks.
 

 

 
And the result:
 

 

 

 

 
Doing this at 1:23 was pretty easy. There was a total of 20 hammocks to be made. As I have said, I now need to transition this to 1:64 for Niagara. The biggest concern is that the rails go around a lot of the ship - I've estimated well over 100 baby hammocks. Although it would be an incredible looking piece of detail I'm not sure I want to invest that much time. So the plan is to show some hammocks in a rail(s) and then make the illusion of more that are covered by canvas.
 
 

MAINMAST STAYS
 
I attached all of the mainmast stays.  The main and spring stay are rigged with closed hearts and tied with lanyards to a heart seized to the foremast and forward bit. I used .018 tan rope for the lanyards.
 
The topsail (middle) stays are rigged with bulleyes, route through thimbles tied to the foremast, and tied with lanyards to bulleyes attached to eyebolts on the deck. I used .012 rope for the lanyards.
 
The t’gallant and royal stays are routed through thimbles on the foremast.  The t’gallant stay is rigged with a double 1/8 block and attached to a tackle on the foremast tree. The Royal is rigged with a kit supplied ring, and attached to an eyebolt with .008 lanyard on the foremast tree.
 
I think you can see most of this on the photos.
 
Every layer of rigging I add to the ship really enhances the image of this great ship.
 
Next up, attach spanker booms and course yard.

See if you can find a flat, non-tapered file with one of the sides smooth, no teeth.  That lets you concentrate on only one side of the cut without worrying about cutting too deep on the side you aren't working on.  Right angles?  You need to develop an eye for it, or some sort of jig or holder that lets you keep your file or sander square.

Hi, Derek.
The crew was divided into two watches, port and starboard.  One half was always 'on deck', the other half 'below'.  For berthing purposes, they were split into pairs with one from each watch.  That pair's hammocks were slung next to each other and were stowed in the nettings together.  At the appropriate time, the off watch partner would go to the nettings and take his and his partner's hammocks below, hanging each from the hooks, battens, whatever.  He unrolled his and left his partner's lashed up into a tube.  When the watch changed, the one who had been on deck unlashed his hammock and slept, while the one who had been below went on deck for his watch.  There were thus only half the hammocks being used at any one time.
There is additional info in 'Most Fortunate Ship', about USF Constitution by Cmdr. Ty Martin, including fire watches, sentries, meals, etc.

The holes in gratings should be maximum 3" square.  This is so the crew's heels won't get caught as they traverse the gratings.  Prototypically, the spacing might vary a bit to make the slats come out even, but keeping that maximum in mind at all times.

Thanks, Ed, for the info.  Since the vast majority of the wood used was oak, we don't use much seriously colored or grained wood, perhaps a binnacle or other fitting, maybe in the Capt.'s cabin if that shows, though some like to simulate the paint or other coatings with colored woods.  Grain becomes a problem, as you say, so it's good to have a grainless source.

Hi, Derek.
The crew was divided into two watches, port and starboard.  One half was always 'on deck', the other half 'below'.  For berthing purposes, they were split into pairs with one from each watch.  That pair's hammocks were slung next to each other and were stowed in the nettings together.  At the appropriate time, the off watch partner would go to the nettings and take his and his partner's hammocks below, hanging each from the hooks, battens, whatever.  He unrolled his and left his partner's lashed up into a tube.  When the watch changed, the one who had been on deck unlashed his hammock and slept, while the one who had been below went on deck for his watch.  There were thus only half the hammocks being used at any one time.
There is additional info in 'Most Fortunate Ship', about USF Constitution by Cmdr. Ty Martin, including fire watches, sentries, meals, etc.

Thanks, Ed, for the info.  Since the vast majority of the wood used was oak, we don't use much seriously colored or grained wood, perhaps a binnacle or other fitting, maybe in the Capt.'s cabin if that shows, though some like to simulate the paint or other coatings with colored woods.  Grain becomes a problem, as you say, so it's good to have a grainless source.

Hi, Derek.
The crew was divided into two watches, port and starboard.  One half was always 'on deck', the other half 'below'.  For berthing purposes, they were split into pairs with one from each watch.  That pair's hammocks were slung next to each other and were stowed in the nettings together.  At the appropriate time, the off watch partner would go to the nettings and take his and his partner's hammocks below, hanging each from the hooks, battens, whatever.  He unrolled his and left his partner's lashed up into a tube.  When the watch changed, the one who had been on deck unlashed his hammock and slept, while the one who had been below went on deck for his watch.  There were thus only half the hammocks being used at any one time.
There is additional info in 'Most Fortunate Ship', about USF Constitution by Cmdr. Ty Martin, including fire watches, sentries, meals, etc.

So that the lashing shows.  It doesn't work any better, it just looks more cunning.  It's like having all your house windows with their tops at the same level.  It gives some order to what might be somewhat chaotic otherwise.
 
I didn't get perfect uniformity, but you can see the lashings.
 

Just a little cap, Mike; big enough to cover the end of your thumb.  It's in one or other of your books.
 
Darrell, I just thought you'd like to know what you've been missing. 

I do not in any way recommend this
 
I do not in any way recommend this,
but the ratlines historically ended with a spliced eye that was lashed to the outer shrouds.  Also, the end of the shrouds, after being lashed to the upper deadeye, had a little leather cap, 'to keep their heads warm and dry', as one of my correspondents says.
Try either one of those and your eyes will certainly cross.
 
I do not in any way recommend this
 
I do not in any way recommend this

Besides building ship models, for the past several years, I have been making reproductions of primarily 18th century masterpieces of American furniture in 1"/ft. scale. As many of you may be aware, the primary wood used in their construction, was mahogany. However, in this scale, the grain of mahogany has proven to be way out of scale, and of course, the same holds even more true for the smaller scales used by model shipbuilders. So, what's a poor fella to do? Fortunately, I discovered that a wood called danta, when stained and finished, looks for all the world, thanks to its pink color and a much finer grain pattern, just like a miniature version of mahogany. Its working properties are excellent. Other wood substitutes I have found useful are mansonia for walnut and quarter sawn English beech for quarter sawn white oak. 
These woods and many more are available from Steve Goode at S. H. Goode & Sons Workshop in Atascadero, CA. I have bought wood from Steve for many years, always with excellent results. He has always been very accommodating when it comes  to special requests, and his knowledge of the woods he deals in is second to none. You can contact him at shgoode.com or by phone at (805) 460-9663.
I hope some of you find this helpful.
 
Sincerely,
Ed Heeg

Hi Joel,
 
I actually tried to create eye splices with the .008 rope, and to be honest, I could not find a pin tip small enough to split the fibers well enough. I also had to do it under a magnifying glass while the rope was clamped to a small vice. I cannot even imagine how one would do that on a ship at this scale. And considering that each of the lower shrouds would require 30 splices X 2 and considering there are 4 in total, that would be 240 splices.
 
I therefore have to agree with your admonitions.

If not out at sea,  the loose ends are belayed to a cleat which would be convenient.  But if out at sea, the boom would need to swing freely so many contemporary models have the two loose ends belayed to the boom itself.  This is also shown on many contemporary paintings as well like the ones shown.
 

 

 

 

 
 

You got it.  Now just make 40 more.  :-)

Something like that, Mike, as long as you have a turn at the midpoint., so it shows at the fold.