amateur
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Everything posted by amateur
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Did the english navy still have threir coat of arms on the bow by this time? I think it's a USS ship around 1905.... and it's quite large: it has four funnels, HMS dreadnought has only two.... Jan
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But then, why bother to make all the other gunports on the orlopdeck?? Jan
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Not me, Ab does Jan
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Link to the drawings to the Hoving book: http://nautarch.tamu.edu/shiplab/images/ Jan
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The book by Hoving is great, I have the Dutch version. The drawings that come with it are also somewhere on the net (I lost the link, as it was in the old MSW) The Friesland in the gallery is based either on the kit of mamoli, or at leat, those are the drawings used. These drawings are loosely based on the drawings that come with the book of Winter (Dutch two decker of 1660), which are in turn based on the old (and now lost) model of a Dutch two-decker in the Berlin Stadschloss before the war. Jan .
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How to harden scale rope
amateur replied to Geoff Matson's topic in Rope Making/Ropewalks's Discussions about Rope Making
I don't have a byrnes, I did some ropelaying on a basic lego-ropewalk. When doing it the right way, my rope does not untwist. Untwisting rope (at least in my case) points at the fact that I disobey the rules of making lefthand twisted rope using righthanded thread and vicve-versa. Jan -
If you can replace it: do. However: you can splice it (or do something that looks like it) as long as your rope has no clear strands in it (otherwise you'll be seeing it from miles away), and there will be no tension on the shrould. How do I know? well (btw where is the ashamed off emoticon gone ) I snipped one of my futtoch shroulds a couple of months ago. I was not able to remove the lower part of the without damaging more than I would have liked. So I spliced a new 'upper part' to it. Not completely invisible (you can see a slightly thicker part in the shrould to the right, just above the seizings. But it will do (at least, for me ) (to get an idea of the scale: ratlines is .15 mm thread)
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Hi, I thought blocks were always attached to a bolt using a hook.... I sometimes use the following way when the block is part of a tackle. Attach the thread to the bolt (using a half hitch). Then attach the block to the thread by making a kind of strop of the two loose ends of the thread. using again a half hitch. Finish with two seizings (or at least one, above the block). This only works if the block to be attached is the one on which the rope for the tackle starts... Otherwise, its the other way round: start with the block, and finish off at the eyebolt. Take one end thru the eyebolt, and finish of with a seizing. (I also used some black paint to suggest a metal hook, but that proved to be a bit messy) Jan
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As far as I can remember, Preisser used to have 1:100 scale figures (unpainted), they require a lot of surgery and painting turning them in to seamen, dut it can be done (there used to be some of those surgery-logs in MSW-1, done by Dafi (working on his 1:100 Heller Victory) Perhaps you can find them somewhere.... I did: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/76-hms-victory-by-dafi-to-victory-and-beyond/page-6#entry4763 Jan
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Ah, missed that discussion... Will drop in there Jan
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Hi Michiel, Looking good, but shouldn't the schaarstokken around the main hatch touch each other sideways? Jan
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Glad you are back! You can do a 'speed log' as many of us have done: just the highlights of what was done before. Jan
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To be sure to get the record, I should perhaps stop building for a couple of years Jan
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ships longboat by iaincwil - FINISHED
amateur replied to iaincwil's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Nice one! Did you do the design yourself, or did you use the Modelshipways longboat as a starting point? Jan -
Knowing Arjan a little bit longer now, I guess part of the modifications will grow in his head while building Derflinger is a 1930-ies reconstruction by Loeff, who had almost no acces on reliable sources on Dutch shipbuilding. It is in no way a good depiction of a Dutch Fluyt. The Mantua is based on a model, and in that way, it is a model of a model, and the kitmaker/builder does not know how relieable the original model is. So modifications to get the thing closer to 'how a fluit should look like' is a sensible strategy.And yes, kitbashing is used for building a modified kit. (Although I'm not quite sure whether a redesign of a kit will still go under the name of bashing, in my view bashing is more like replacing ugly metal gunports and doorhinges with better looking ones ) Anyway, this fluit will be very good looking Jan
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Coloring Basswood
amateur replied to JPett's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
It's a pitty that Chucks buildlog on the Mayflower is gone (at least, I didn't manage to find it) but Chuck Passarro does absolute wonders on basswood. I think he is also using the minwax pre-satin /stain combination. Jan -
OK, the reason I ask, is that Corel added a kind of non-specific figures to the Prins Willem kit, in stead of a serious replica of the original. Made paintin git 'like the original' an impossibility. Jan
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Thanks! To my model, the "MSW disaster" proved to be a blessing in disguise: I'm back into little knots again Jan
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So yours will be flaring red in stead of the Landstrom blue? Will be in ainteresting excercise, painting the little figures in full colour. (btw: how do the Corel figures match to the originals?) Jan
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ROYAL CAROLINE 1749 by Doris - 1:40 - CARD
amateur replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Now that is a unicorn! Sculpting a 1,5 cm long unicorn. That's amazing! (or in your case I could also say: it's up to your usual, unbelievably high standard ) Jan- 883 replies
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Another 'speedlog' I marked myself as a follower! Jan
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ROYAL CAROLINE 1749 by Doris - 1:40 - CARD
amateur replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Still struggling with the idea that this is paper Jan- 883 replies
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I did ask this at a couple of bookstores around, but what they do is: go to the website, order the book, and ask me to pay book price, taxes, fees and other legal stuff taht I would pay by ordering through internet myself, and a 'handling fee' for themselves on top of this. As far as I have discovered by now, there is no way to circumvent these high imports (and if someone knows how, please give a response....) And yes, ofcourse amazon is available, but in principle the package will only be cleared by customs after paying the legal amounts. (tax free import by mail is, as Carl mentioned above: 22 euro). [edit] And : check the proices of the Swan series on Amazon: you can almost buy all seawatch books for that amount.... Jan
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In the Netherlands there is 'Uitgeverij Van Wijnen' (http://www.uitgeverijvanwijnen.nl/) they have the the book on Valkenisse already in their list, and they have the Dutch version of the Hoving-book on the Utrecht. A second one firm is Lanasta (http://www.lanasta.com/), developping a nive portfolio of modelling and maritime books for the Dutch market. Would either of these two be an option as 'import-partner' for the Seawatch-range? Importing in bulk (or as Klaus suggests even printing the books here), might be a method to lower the relative effect of the import and tax on the bookprice. Jan
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