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amateur

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Everything posted by amateur

  1. Dutch ships may have had a single taper on mast and spars, but that was not a ‘linear’ taper. Both for masts and spars the taper was (more or less) a large radius circle, leading to spars that are almost not tapered in the middle two quarters. The same applies to the masts (even more complicated: mastheads are square, and not tapered). Your model will gain by going the extra mile of recreating that profile. I dont see how you can get to that using a sanding disk Jan
  2. You should also have a look at some of the build-logs of Dan Vadas. Lots of usefull info there. This one for instance, but there is more to find. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/16864-bismarck-by-dan-vadas-finished-gpm-1200-card-and-pe/ Jan
  3. Markers work fine, but often just plain watercolour or acrillic paint does the trick. with respect to the side wings: i should have cut the angled pieces, and glue them, instead of folding backwards: the paper I used was slightly too thick to get a nice even bend. Jan
  4. Pretty good for a braindead builder How much of it will be visible in the finished product? Jan
  5. Although cheap sometimes means: crappy wood and even crappier instructions. That makes cheaper not the same as ‘easier’….. Jan
  6. Did some googling. you can use that same string to determine the position of the slots in the lower chanel. You may discover that the slots in the upper chanel need some tinkering to get enough space to set them on the correct angle Jan
  7. Actually, I don’t quite understand the issue at hand. To find the correct angle for the chainplates, take a dowel as dummy mast: ty a piece of string at the top (or were the top will be). Pulling that string from mast doen over the chanels, will give you the angle for the chainplates. As the angle varies from front to aftshrould, the lower end of the chainplates will not be at a straight line, but on a large diameter radius. Jan
  8. Smaller than I thought. I don’t know how it is in real, but on my screen gold and colours balance out quite nicely. Jan
  9. With respect to the deck-camber: from the drawings that Fred Hocked posted in the Vasa forum, there seems to be considerable camber. Also: the way you draw the bottom timbers is not completely up to 'usual standards: the timbers lay flat on the keel, the planking goes down in the keel-rabet, leaving an open space to collect the incoming water. See drawing no 6, on this page: https://warshipvasa.freeforums.net/thread/87/vasa-ship-plans?page=3 Jan
  10. Coming along nicely. Those things on the reardeck are not vents: just staircases to the lower deck (at least, ghey are in the dutch Z1, that was designed and build after the first Z1 became v108) Jan
  11. Sometimes I think you love card-planes better than card-ships. Is the pattern of the ribs just rendering, ordid you do something to enhance it? Jan
  12. I don’t see what you try to tell us. The ridets are made from a number of pieces of timber, scarphed together and the scarf is secured with large dowels that are more or less evenly spaced. Or are those not the dowels you refer to? Jan
  13. Make sure you can still get the model out of your workshop…. A full rig at that scale will be large Jan
  14. My own observation: the forum had Clayton's model as main focal point. As soon as he finished his model, the remaining log's were mainly the 'standard' build logs of kit-versions of Vasa. Fred stopped being a regular visitor, because we were for the main part just lurkers, drooling at Clayton's beautiful model. And than it lost momentum as a community of Vasa-enthousiasts. But it still is a wealth of info, although it is sometimes difficult to find the info, as it was quite often just in casual remarks somewhere in a post.... Jan
  15. Hi, I will follow this one for sure. There used tobe a vasa-dedicated forum, interesting as Hocker was avfrequent visitor. It is non-active for a while, but the information is still there. https://warshipvasa.freeforums.net Jan
  16. Although this one has a mast too many….. Jan
  17. Nice model, although my huess is that there was the usual artistic license by the builder. It reminds me of the steam barques around 1900. any provenance that could guide us in the search for the original? (actually: I doubt what the function of the original was: not navy (no guns). No hatches, so not bulk transport. Passenger transport? Also: the pucs I can find show one-funneled ships. This one has two, but also a complete barque (?) rigging. Artistic license, or a clue towards the original ship? does it have a name on the transom? jan
  18. Philip Reed in card. So far, It’s looking pretty convincing. Jan
  19. Just thinking aloud: can you scrape the sides of the groove using an x-acto 11 blade (preferably one with its tip broken of, to prevent the knife catching in the bottom of that groove. Jan
  20. How large (small) are these boats? They look tiny. You can also decide to leave the lines on, and hope nobody will notice the anachronism….. Jan
  21. Rigging was a bit difficult. The thread is flytying thread (mostly 8/0), wich is almost thinner than my eues can see :). Also, it’s glued using CA, and CA and I are no friends Both antennae were done twice. Took me a whole afternoon. But it was worth the additional work: adding the antennae ‘explain’ the relatively long masts. again thanks to Chris for his tutorial on this ship/kit. Very helpful indeed. Jan
  22. And today, I finally finished the V108 (apart from the flag, that should be there, but was not included in the download). The antennae were a bit of a struggle, but they meet my standards. Hindsight: I did not take the model completely serious in the beginning, so the hull is a bit sloppy, with painted patches. Apart from that: I’m content with how it turned out. Jan
  23. horses (footrope) of the flying jibboom?
  24. Sometimes things are longer sgo than you think…. It took some time to put up two masts and some rigging. The rigging diagram that goes with the model does not match the rigging that is done by some geman modellers, based on orher info. It aldo does not match pictures of the time. Therefore I took the ‘ in between version’. Simplified, but mote like the original. Antennae to be done, but this rigging stuff is a bit trying on the eyes (the difference between rigging line, dust and my own hairs is hardly visible) , as is the CA on my nose In other words: almost there, but still a decent amount of work to do. Also: I did not find a flag that fits the period (german imperial navy).
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