amateur

But they don't do Dutch ships
 
Jan

I'll try.
 
problem with reprimt is that my scanner/printer does completely change the dolour. Just rolling white paper, and painting afterward is perhaps the easiest way bto go. The funny thing is: even when you get the thing rolled to instructions, the resulting tube is just way too thick. I don't understand the designer: he should have been aware of paper thickness.....
 
Jan

Little time today, so small parts.
funnel was finished, and some small platforms around the conning tower are done (almost).
tomorrows funpart: roll to make a column of max 2 milimietre wide at the top, and three and a half at the lower end.
fun: the cardbord is almost .3 milimeters thick.
 
 suggestions are welcome.
 
Jan

Tonight Idid some work on the funnel.
the result is OK, but the designer of this kit, really should have double-checked his measurements.....
Oh, and his instructions
theinstruction was 'wrap around the deck' 
Ok, but the additional width, should that be below, above, or equally devided? 
I decided for 'below'. Hope I will not regrett in the future of the build.
 
next came the funnel. Although rounded, there is no base-plate provided. No idea how the designer thinks you can either form or attach the thing.
I used a copy I made of the deck on which it willbe attached as former.

the top-side has holes in it, but I was not sure whether or not you can see the white inside of the funnel. I put a small black paper below the holes. (In the meantime I discovered that this was not necessary)
 
On top of this comes a rim, with a second plate with two holes in it.
This rim is way, waytoo large, itdoesn't even touch the funnel when laid on top, and the top-part is justnot fitting. Ineeded to shorten it by almost half a centimeter toget it fitting on the funnel. The fit with the topplate is a bit lousy, but some white glue and black paint will solve that issue.

 
next will be a rather strange contraption around the funnel (added to increase draft of the funnel, as the machines couldn't get to full power)
 
again you can see that the backside print is off by almost 1.5 milimeter in two directions. Again, some paint willbe needed. This part will be curved around a small deck, that willbe fited around the funnel (on the previous pic, you can see the downward sloping line that indicates the position of this deck. 
 
And now, just for fun, all parts loosely stacked together.
I like the profile of the ship
 
Jan
 

Yeah, we would be rich by now
 
Jan

De Ruyter has been collecting some dust over the summer, but today I finally managed to soend some time on him.
 
First I did the railing on the upper platform
again, JSC did some overlength on a not so usefull place:

The railing has to disassembled in three parts to get a reasonable fit.
Now it is drying, for attaing the toprail needs to be done when the part is really drie (and therefore:rigid)
 
Next was the middle deck house: I did the lower part some time ago, now I did the fullel-base. Whatever I did: the marks on the side wouldn't line up with those on the deck. Also the indent on the forward side of the deck was not large enough: the whole structure therfore stood to far aft. I made it larger, hoping there are no unexpected side-effects of the surgery:)
 

 
Finally I started the aft deckhouse (the base for the anti-aircraft battery.)
The idea is the same as for the other deckhouses: a white core, deck glued on top, walls glued around. Sounds simple, and it works reasonably well (apart for the top-layer of the card that tends to come loose at the edges.... Also, the back wall is a bit on the low side. Hopefully the gun-platform will hide the gap.
And now it is drying under some pressure, as it tried to warp.....
 
and finally, todays lesson:
always check the back of your scrap card before using it as cutting mat
Jan
 

I guess while she was originally designed as an RC vessel. She needed to give a nice view from a distance, without going into tiny (and easy damaging) detail.
Apparently, BB retained this design, even now detailing is easier and cheaper.
 
Jan

Nope, my first one enetered only in 1994 (not an early adaptor  )
 
Jan

Lasercutted plywood..... that is cheating
that ought to be unstable, uneven, uncuttable wood
Looks good so far. 
I started mine somewhere around 1985, that was not only before internet, but before a pc at home.
 
Jan

Dont forget the navigation lights in the masts,
(white lights, not completelyy sure where to place them)
 
jan

I always liked the last rode zee more than the zwarte zee an rotterdam....
 
But, as there is no kit of that one, I turned to Smit Rotterdam.
 
I will follow the build with interest, to see what you make out of her.
Don’t forget to insure her when finished
 
jan

Hi Marcus,
 
for tips and tricks you should turn to the buildlog of chris (ccoyle). He did an excelent one for starters in card (torpedoship V108).
Danny's buildlogs of large battleships also contain lots of usefull tips and tricks.
 
Jan

Hi Adrie,
 
thanks for the suggestion. Does require some practice and trial. my first folds where far off the folding line  (and did you start closing revenges hull without showing in your buildlog?)
 
Today I did the first guntower (of a total of four). The Ruyter was a bit undergunned: she had a total of 7 guns, of a 15 cm caliber.
Three towers with two, and one with only one gun. The standard practice of three guns per tower was discussed, but deemed to expensive.
 
The guntowers can be turned and the guns can be elevated. Why you should want to do, I don't know, but I succeeded in realizing the mechanism.
 
pics are self-explaining.
 








 
aThe guns look tiny, but to be honest: at this scale they even should be slightly thinner. Rolling card is not the easiest way to get the thickness right: only after the whole thing is glued, you can see the thickness....
 
Jan

Because you can . When you start fitting all the small pieces to the decks around them you'll be glad you can move the barrels out of the way .
 
Danny

Hi Adrie,
 
thanks for the suggestion. Does require some practice and trial. my first folds where far off the folding line  (and did you start closing revenges hull without showing in your buildlog?)
 
Today I did the first guntower (of a total of four). The Ruyter was a bit undergunned: she had a total of 7 guns, of a 15 cm caliber.
Three towers with two, and one with only one gun. The standard practice of three guns per tower was discussed, but deemed to expensive.
 
The guntowers can be turned and the guns can be elevated. Why you should want to do, I don't know, but I succeeded in realizing the mechanism.
 
pics are self-explaining.
 








 
aThe guns look tiny, but to be honest: at this scale they even should be slightly thinner. Rolling card is not the easiest way to get the thickness right: only after the whole thing is glued, you can see the thickness....
 
Jan

What can I say, Jan. It was a work in progress ...  No, it still IS a work in progress. 😥
 
But you're welcome, re: the suggestion. And don't worry about it taking time to perfect. In a couple of weeks it will become second nature to you. well, it took me a couple of months and since I'm not the fastest kid on the blocks by far....... 😉.

Hi Adrie,
 
thanks for the suggestion. Does require some practice and trial. my first folds where far off the folding line  (and did you start closing revenges hull without showing in your buildlog?)
 
Today I did the first guntower (of a total of four). The Ruyter was a bit undergunned: she had a total of 7 guns, of a 15 cm caliber.
Three towers with two, and one with only one gun. The standard practice of three guns per tower was discussed, but deemed to expensive.
 
The guntowers can be turned and the guns can be elevated. Why you should want to do, I don't know, but I succeeded in realizing the mechanism.
 
pics are self-explaining.
 








 
aThe guns look tiny, but to be honest: at this scale they even should be slightly thinner. Rolling card is not the easiest way to get the thickness right: only after the whole thing is glued, you can see the thickness....
 
Jan

the klapmuts is top protect the wooden beam of the kruiwerk: long heavy wood is expensive, so you need to be protection against water entering.
(the kruiwerk is too important and too expensive to be hampered with rot)
 
Jan

This is a dry, newly thatched mill: sharplines, one colour.
 

 
Old (notice the moss), and less sharp corners in the thatch, but very dry (because, greyish colour)
 

 
Thatching is expensive, so not uncommon: pnly replace the leaking side...

 
head forsomething that is between these colours, and you willbe OK.
 
(and: dont tey to google for a wet mill, tourists apparently never take pics in the rain :))
 
 
And when you want to get an impressionof changing colours over time, and over the day, google 'kinderdijk molen' those are the most famous eightsided mill inthe Netherlands, and therefore the most fotographed.. 8 mills, never the same colour. 
 
Jan
 
 
 
 

Yep, and those vanes are not at a constant angle.
btw translation is misleading: the sails (in dutch) refer to the cloth that is attached at low wind speed: how to translate, when sail is something different?
 
Jan

No it is a 1:87 that is on the topshelf pf my cupboard even
aince 1991. Never had an idea of how to tacklethe problem of thr curvature of the vanes at this scale
 
aJan

Ah well, vanes.
That is why mine is gathering dust over twenty odd years now

and with respect to thatch in model scales:
I came across a site that suggested this material;
http://www.exoticwings.com/shoppe/coconut-fiber-bundle-bird-nesting-nesting-material-p-4268.html
 
Jan

THat is a very nice drawing!
 
and a wip-watermolen is a very nice one indeed. Most gardenversions of a mill over here are wip-watermolens.
 
for those not familiar, This is the one, 
 
Jan