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Hr.Ms. De Ruyter by amateur - Scaldis/JSC - 1:250 - Card

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After finishing my model of Axeldijk, I start a new card-model by the Dutch firm Scaldis.

It is a 1:250 model of the light cruiser Hr.Ms. De Ruyter. (The model is designed bythe polishfirm JSC). The ship measured 170 meters, sothemodel is just under80 centimeters long.


De Ruyter was a ship designed inthe same period as the Dutch cruisers Java and Sumatra: early thirties. I rhink they have an appealing design: long, sleek lines. Hoever, for their purpose, they were a bit outdatedalready at their launch: their armamanet being 7 15cm guns, and a number of machine guns for anti aircraft protection. She also had to Fokker biplanes on board.

het warrime crew was 470 men.


The ship had an armour belt at the waterline, but that alos was more basedshipdesign inthe interbellum than a match to the modern ships of the early forties.


She was the flagship of the combined fleet inthe Java-sea, and went down in that battle in 1942, on februari 27th.




The basic design of the hull is comparable to that of many scaldis-models: a triangular guirder that acts as the backbone of the model, the frames are slotted on this beam, deck glued on top, andnext the hull (in threepieces) attached. I will glue a sepearte 160grams sheet under the decks, as with Axeldijk I discovered that the deck remains a bit wobbly, and tends to curve in unexpected (and unwanted) places, resulting in deck-houses not being vertical....


I don't actually like this construcion: it is rather sturdy,but any dolding or gluing errors in that triangular part willend up in a skewed hull (and there is no way ofcorrecting that skewedness). There are some buildlogs of DeRuyter around, but almost none of them reaches the end. I wonder why.....









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I did the backbone, it is almost straight, and not too heavily twisted.

that is the problem using this constructionmethod, any folding-errors, however minute create a twist inthis backbone. 




and I cut out part of the frames that have to slot over the centra beam.





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Piet asked me in an other thread whether I would build her pre WW-Ii or like she was in the war.

Actually, I don't know which year the kit takes as a reference.

De Ruyter had over a very short period of her already short existence a camouflage-print (in dark green and grey). Scaldis also had this camouflage version, but I don't know whether this greylivery. Depicted in my kit predates this camouflage or isthe 'post-camouflage' version.

I know for sure that it is not depicted 'as build', because the kit shows the modified funnel. Ihave not searched for other clues yet.


and now for this mornings progress.

cutting, folding, gluing.




in the last pic you can see another twisting: both bow and stern are two pieces, flaps folded outward, and than glued back to back. Although glued under heavy weight, folded along a steel ruler, the final piece had some twisting. I hope to correct this wen the bottom and top pieces are installed.


I like the length to breadth ratio of these cruisers: less than 1:10, just over 6 cm wide, and 70 centimeters long. Definitely more elegant than the large battleships of the period. (The same holds for the two other dutchcruiserrs of the same period: Java and Sumatra)



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What is a kit without problems?

I ran into the first one, and the instructions are not helpfull:

the gluetabs are not attached to the deck, but on a separate layer, to be glued under the deck. But it didn't match up: is the deck wider than de hull, is the deckpart too wide, the tab-part to small, the deck too long, or the underlayer too short. I don't know, so i just glued it to the underside. This however did't look good, so i ripped it off again. (Ouch, the glue sets pretty quick). Ishortened the deck by about 1.5 mm, and now they under and upper part seem to match up. I hope the gluing/regluing does not result in a deckthat is very uneven.....




and now for thebottom part. The instructions say: attach to flat underground, glue togetehr, and glue frames on top. Yeah....:)IMG_0152.jpg.c470855f27894acbf4580a2d7419b0b4.jpg


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Yay, another Card model :):). Interesting subject too.


Tabs .... yuck! I don't like tabs :angry:. I'd be redesigning the construction to eliminate them wherever possible.


Hopefully the twist will come out later on when the deck is on and the hull is skinned. If you can untwist it by hand now it should be OK later, even though the twist comes back in when you let it go. The triangulation of the hull skinning acts like a brace, but you'll have to be careful to firmly support it straight before you start the skinning.


:cheers:  Danny

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Hi Danny,


it is tabs all over. Doing away with them is a bit tricky, so I will try to live with it. I dont like this design: there is no way of checking the length of the frames: the frames did not exactly match the bottom piece. Untill the skins goes on you dont know. By that time, there is no way of correcting.......



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More tabs


more weightIMG_0152.jpg.c2b44d6a1b340da1ec94169a66e00378.jpg

and a workable flat deck



Now thinking over the skinning procedure: the skin goes over lengthwise: stern sction, bow-section, and finally a midship section, that has some margin for error (3 mm :) )

fun thing is: the stern and bow need to be formed: at the waterline they meet at an angle, at deck level they meet without angle. The sternsection is curved inward, the bow should kind of 'fan out'. There are, hoever no slits cut into the skin to help forming.

besides: in the bow section, exactly in the place were curvature is largest, the skin need to be cut where the hawse holes (three of them) need to come. The instruction says: first skinning, next placing these hawseholes, but i cant get to the backside of them after the skin goes on. Cutting the hole before skinning perhaps will cause the skin to kink instead of curve while forming, so i contemplate over the order of appearance ;)

I will keep you informed :)



Edited by amateur
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And the weight to keep the deck down. The cardboard is struglling a bit with the weight, but I need it, toget the deck more or less flat. (Although I already noticed with the back-deck that some unevenness remains.



it turned out that some (not all) of the frames were slightly wider that the deck, and that there was a very, very slight lengthwise curvature in the hull. So I will need to tweak around a bit with those flaps to get the skin and deck without any gaps. Next up: some edge painting of the decks. (After the glue is dry, so I guess that Ishould take a break for now) (I could switch to one of my other builds, though..;) )





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It looks like the horizontal frames could have benefited from some extra card lamination on their flat parts (without doing the tabs). Even just doubling the thickness of the card makes an enormous difference to the amount of weight it can hold.


I hope you can sort out the hull skinning. I'd be inclined to cut in the hawses AFTER it's skinned. Use VERY sharp scalpel blades for that and it should cut OK. Perhaps some extra support frames either side of the hawses may help.


:cheers:  Danny

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Site down, so time to build. 

Yesterday I started the skinning of the hull.


first the deckhous between the two decks. The difficult thing were the porthole covers. Just over one milimeter in diameter, far smaller than my smalles punch....

edge-colouring proved to be beyond my capabilities. (Luckily there are some spares, breathing is dangerous while cutting these things)



next came the first part of the skin. As the point were the skin and the deck meet comes critical, that was the point where I started. Some tweeking of the tabs was needed, as the deck did not quit fit over the part with the tabs. Ithined them at the point of the fold. (The tab looses its function by that, but the deck proved thick enough for theglue to hold. The skin proved slightly too long. (So: I shouldn't have shortened the deck, but actually enlarged the part with the tabs, the pic is of thestartboardpart bedore shortening, to getan idea of the'overlength)





next came the front part. After some deliberation, and reading in other buildlogs, I decided to do the hawseholes first. (Luckily, the other buildorder wouldhave proved almost impossiblefor me). I tried to open the hole, but that was nogreat succes.



Themess onthe backside, but the outside looks Ok. There will be a part over the gap around the hawsehole (it is in the lasercutted set, but I not add that yet, as it needs to be painted, and I don't have yetfound thenestcolour mix)



The other side has two. Fun :)


Next the attachment of the skin on the hull. The first front frames turned outsignificantly smaller than the deck. So I redid them using 160-grams card. (I could justglue them over the existing ones, no need to cut the redundant tabs away). Amidships the frames were slightly wider than the deck, so I cutthe tabs away and replaced them with a wooden strip (matchstick actually). 

Here the results:


Nextthe skin. The edge colouring  wasn't  uto standard, so somewhite shows trough.

the skin didn't take the inward curvature like I would have liked. Problem is that that part annot be reached from the inside.IMG_0152.jpg.14a2f8e0380cc0e7b538141934b535b3.jpg


finally (this afternoon) the remainder went on. Itturned out too long. All in all I shortened the skinparts by a centimeter. That ismore than the 4 mm leftover the kits provides for. Luckily thecut didn't go through a porthole :).

Next the ship got some weight on it to prevent it twisting while the glue hardens.


Notime tomorrow, so,thenext update willtake some time.















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That looks like a very difficult build Jan but you seem to have a handle on it. The paint scheme at the start of the war with Japan was after the English method. This was due to the Dutch fleet came under command of the English in Singapore. I came across a photo of 1940 with the De Ruyter in camouflage livery.  The light parts of the hull is in light grey and the dark parts are in dark grey. The superstructure is in a medium grey with with dark grey accents.  Boris Mulenko from "PacificCrossRoads666@list.ru suggests UA631 Admiralty Dark Grey, UA 632 Medium Grey. UA 633 Pale Grey and UA 622 Dark Grey. 

I have attached two pics, one is the English way as shown on Hr. Ms. Java, the other is a pic of Hr. Ms. de Ruyter in 1940 livery.

I'm sure you will hit Mr. Google for a search but the photo I got from www.nederlandsnavy.nl Cruisers/Ruyter -balarat.jpg


I hope this helps and cheers,


dutch_light_cruiser_hr__ms__java_1942_by_kara_alvama-d551qop copy.png


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Hi Piet,


thanks for the pic. Scaldis has two versions of the kit: one in plain grey, one in camouflage livery. I will not go and try to repaint my grey one into the camouflage version.

there are some (but very little) pics of De Ruyter in camouflage. I couldn't find anything definitive on the question whether ornot she steamed into the Javazee with orwithout her camouflage.



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The second pic shows her on the other side in camouflageIMG_0348.JPG.354f1e53ec517c5102c612df0fdbcd16.JPG

Maritiemdigitaal has a stunning amoh t of pic of De Ruyter (including many of the build), some during see trials (before the change in the funnel)



but none in camouflage.... somediscussions suggest that the camouflage was only added when she entered the combined fleet in the Javazee, but I haven't yet found proof for that.


btw: I also haven't any clue of the function of that little platform at the bow....




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Yes, I know, it is on the design drawings. Hoever, I can't think of any function for it.

in the crossection it can be seen that it is kind of and H-profile (and not a small deck)

it is not connected to anything inside, and there are two rather large eyelets fastened on top. (On some pics you can see a line going down to these eyes.IMG_0351.JPG.f3aeac66826f18a1a703fc43d4216557.JPGIMG_0353.JPG.df412ec46c776ed4e9866407edff2d39.JPGIMG_0352.JPG.9008471583b6a5be9d2dee400de06705.JPG



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  • 3 weeks later...

Today I finally had some hours to get the hull closed.

Took me the better part of two hours.  On this side, I needed some tweeking to get the middle part in the correct length: the cut had to go through a porthole, and that didn't seem a good idea. So,  a non straight cut was used.IMG_0362.jpg.41ee28cd4914b5240d5959da4014e320.jpg



finally someweight on to to get thehull a bit straightened (it tends to curve down at the ends)


The little round part at the bow is also attached (still don't know what it is for)






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JSC made me almost despair: the hull-design is a bit ricky, as there is no way to check the length of the hull: the deck seemed too long, the hull-skins were definitly too long. The armour belt is made of two layers, the first one wass too long (by exactthe amount of lenght I removed fro. The skin-parts, so that made me think.... what if....


One hour of thinking and trimming later, the whole centimeter was down to a three milimeter IMG_0381.jpg.a3f86979c77272d19dca06df3c951511.jpg

the problem of this layer over layer, is that the hull gets a bit 'wavering': the hull skin tends to bend inward between the frames. So I cheated a bit to get the thing straight again: matchsticks do wonders.IMG_0382.jpg.f9c89caaa3960607a53d854da3833161.jpg

and so the beast has its starboard-side finished.IMG_0384.jpg.01be4e73d4d17936103677f0fdc5ea9d.jpg

and no, I am ot going to do any PE ladders, windows, eyebrows aboe the windows or anyrhing else. No, I will not go there (not yet, at least...)



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Today it was the other side.

and guess what: here the white strio was acentimeter too long, but the grey one did fit almost perfectly.

JSC is getting me confused ;)



next the conning tower is to be build. It is constructed around a blocklike structure (forgot a pic...). Doors are doubled, but all the remainder is just printed (windows, ladders, etc)IMG_0389.jpg.c2d82999ce6767eb07553fc70886d9c6.jpg

Again some confusion with the length: that will never fit....



But it does give a nice feeling to have some superstructure :)IMG_0392.jpg.82213b474346e8450286cff8945ea31b.jpg



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