kurtvd19

I have been using the OptiVisor by Donegon for 20 years or so. With many 40 hour weeks in the shop I started to get eye strain. I was advised by my Ophthalmologist to make sure I only used glass lenses to reduce eye strain. I ordered a set of their DA-5 OptiVisor with 3 sets of glass lenses - I have only ever used one of the extra lens sets and for some extremely small work. I was able to try out an OptiVisor at a trade show where they had different lenses in some of the units. I ordered the OptiVisor with the 3 sets of lenses and it was a completely different view than with the unit I had with the plastic lenses. I have never used the old set with the plastic lenses since then. I only keep the old set around in case somebody needs to use them at a club function in my shop. Glass is the way to go. Donegon has auxiliary lights that can be attached to the visor, but I have very good bench lighting so I have not had a need for more light. LED's are the way to go - I have a 4 foot LED shop light over each bench providing a lot of light - that was the other thing my Ophthalmologist recommended.

I just found your latest build and I am realty enjoying it. I don't know how I missed it but I find your work very interesting and your use of the chalk and alcohol to weather the wood is very realistic. Keep posting the interesting work you are so good at. Kurt

If you are an NRG member there is a video posted in the member's section on Airbrush Basics. In addition there is a list of resources with the video that lists some informational videos on cleaning your airbrush. Open the NRG website and look under Events then pick Workshops from the drop down.

CAF is legitimate. They are a MSW Sponsor/Advertiser. Check the right hand column of the home page.

Looks like the one from Harbor Freight -cheaper to go buy one than the cost of shipping. I don't often mention Harbor Freight but for some stuff they are pretty good.

I started with the Taig lathe with many accessories including the milling tool. It did everything I wanted to do including pens. I had a chance to purchase a slightly used long bed Sherline lathe and jumped at the opportunity. I have to say that Sherline has more accessories than Taig but I am not a machinist and both lathes are capable of doing much more than I will ever be capable of doing. I have come to the conclusion that the Taig was perfectly good enough for me and I didn't really gain anything by purchasing the Sherline lathe until I late had a chance to pick up a very slightly used Sherline mill. The ease of switching from turning to milling having both Sherline machines far out weighs the conversion from turning to milling with the Taig lathe with its milling tool. A big difference in price to add the Sherline mill but I am very happy I did it. There are times I wish I had stuck the Taig lathe in the corner because some things I found were easier to do with the Taig but I got my entire investment in the Taig back when I sold it so overall selling it to a club member worked out for both of us.

The flanking rudders move to aid maneuvering. Water flowing over a rudder from the props is very effective in turning the boat (high velocity) while water flowing over the rudder in baking up and not from the props is very ineffective in steering (low velocity). Thus the flanking rudders being ahead of the props work very well in controlling turning while in reverse. The boat can move sideways when the flanking rudders are turned one way with the steering rudders (behind the props) are turned in the opposite direction with one prop in reverse and the other going ahead. I can't remember the combination of port or starboard props in forward and port or starboard in reverse with the direction of the flanking rudders being to port or starboard and steering rudders to being to port or starboard, but both props and rudders must be set in opposite directions to move the boat sideways. Pilots can do this in their sleep before they are entrusted to operate a towboat with barges. I have spent a lot of time on towboats on the IL River when I was associated with the owner of the business and while I did a lot of steering on mostly straight parts of the river or gentle sweeping turns I would never have thought of asking if I could attempt a sharp turn where operating both sets of rudders and using reverse on one prop to aid turning knowing the pilot would absolutely not allow it. Back then I was into R/C boats and had a twin screw towboat with steering and flanking rudders with individual motor control. The towboat company had a real nice shallow pond adjacent to their office building and our Radio Control Model Boat club was able to enjoy operating our boats there. I used to truly enjoy calling out to a Captain or Pilot and ask them if the wanted to operate my tow. They all said yes without hesitation - the first time. After a quick explanation of which control lever on the radio was the steering rudders with the other by default the flanking rudder, the port and starboard motor controls were very obvious which controlled the props. On a 1:1 towboat the steering controls are horizontal levers that operate on a concentric pair of control rods to the rudders. The engine controls are side by side levers with duplicate sets of motor controls on each side of the steering levers. Like I said earlier all Pilots and Captains can make their boats move in any direction by combining steering and motor controls as describer earlier. They don't have to think about forward/reverse/port/starboard. But the simple fact that there is a different R/C control layout than in any towboat caused them to screw up the simplest maneuver. Most would hand me the radio and walk away after just a few minutes. But most of them came back later because "no toy boat is smarter than me!" We did have a lot of fun operating at the shipyard.

Something that we offer to members are the Virtual Workshops we offer throughout the year on Saturday mornings (10:30 AM Central). We record the workshops and within a week or two they are available on the website for members to view as often as they want. We have a new workshop on May 4 on Basics of the Air Brush. We also have a two part one on June 15 on Creating Realistic Working Sails and Creating Furled Sails. Check out the recordings in the Events section of the website. Also, they are priced right - FREE! All members will get an email with the Zoom link real soon.

Check out the NRG website thenrg.org You can join for as little as $40 (US funds) with the Digital Edition. It can be read on-line or saved to your computer. You can print out articles for your private use (copyrights). There is a downloadable pdf copy of a Journal you can read to see a typical Journal. There is a lot of useful information on the site. Like all hobby related magazines we can only print what is submitted. We do pay for modeling articles so you might want to consider sharing with your fellow modelers and write an article - and get paid. As others have said NRG membership helps support MSW. Take care, Kurt

Looks great Eric. Brian, I use one of the magnetic squaring jigs when it's possible to build off the model. When it's scratch I always use it.

Model Expo has licensed the Midwest line of boat models from Midwest and are now manufacturing the kits. Check their catalog. They are also distributing some of the kits to Micro Mark. Check/compare the prices. Model Expo likely lower.

The books are a great addition - really personalizes the model.

I can't remember the brand as there were several saws made with this junk motor type. Jarmac? for the brand possibly. A lot of end play so the blade kind of goes where it wants and it goes way too fast. It's wort $5 at the most sorry but it's junk.

The sanding drum or the sandpaper on the sanding drum?

Get your money back.

I have made and used the type of soldering jig described. I was not bothered much by the torch's effect on the wood as I used my Smith Little Torch. However, I kept a bowl of water and a good sized ratty paint brush right next to my soldering spot on the bench in case of fire. I used it a few times to knock down smoldering areas before flames would appear. I also have a fire extinguisher real close. Be prepared rather than being sorry you were not prepared. Kurt

Badger's acrylic paints use distilled water for thinning. Distilled water is so cheap and easy to get I have not even thought of using other fluids.

Each paint mfg has a proprietary additive for their paints. I wouldn't stray from the mfg's product w/o testing. NOT on your model.

Members who do not know Charlie Cozewith as he hasn't posted on MSW much, should know that he is a long time NRG member and I will personally vouch for him being trustworthy and you should not have reservations about dealing with him.

Eric: Silk span painted to represent canvas is the way I would go. Kurt

Alan: Great article. Opened my eyes that there are hazards other than just the inhalation of dust with many woods. I am saving this article so I can make it available to club members. Thanks, Kurt

Slitting blades were what was supplied for the old PREAC Saw and it is limited to 3 inch (max) saw blades. Slitting blades have no offset to the teeth so it's easy to pick your blade thickness to match the width of a slot (or stacking to get a specific width). I got away from slitting blades except in rare cases as I have found some carbide blades that work great for my work - and they don't get hot and bind up. Kurt

There will be an announcement made here on MSW when the business reopens. Donna has asked that people do not call or email until then.

Possibly Eric. I do know that I have observed drain valves in steam piping systems to rid the lines of water where the Engineer could reach over, crack the valve and blow out any water.

Eric: The walled off areas alongside the stairs was for coal storage. I have seen photographs of coal in burlap bags being carried onto boats. Sometimes on backs or shoulders and also in wheelbarrows. If building the Chaperon today, and not for a magazine deadline, I would absolutely insulate to top area of the boilers. Most photos I have of steam engines and their steam pipes don't show insulation on the pipes or the engines. Back then the fuel was cheap and conserving fuel or steam wasn't much of a concern. Kurt