kurtvd19

Thanks, I will give it a try.

Congratulations on a very well done model. I have truly enjoyed following your work. I would like to encourage you to enter Thistle in the 2024 Model Show & Contest at the WI Maritime Museum at Manitowoc. I think you would enjoy meeting and hanging out with the modelers and you might be surprised with the results of the competition. Regardless of where it would place I know there are a bunch of us that would enjoy looking closer at Thistle. Again, congratulations on a great model. Any idea of what's next? Kurt

I miss having an Aloe plant in the house. My Mother had a bunch in a built in planter that was a sort of room divider between the living room and den. When we bought the house Mary had me get rid of the aloe plants because she is allergic to aloe. It was always handy to just cut off a bit to apply to burns. Quite common for me or Dad to get small burns from firefighting activities. Back then we didn't have the protective gear they have now or even what I used in my career that ended 26 years ago now - I Love Retirement!

Those appear to be home made. Check some of the vendors in the right column of this site's main page - I would start with Ages of Sail as most likely to have something similar. I have a bunch of similar (but much higher quality) made by Xacto many years ago. Search clamps bock on our main page - there have been similar home made clamps here some I believe had sketches.

Nicely done!

Eric: I don't know how I missed your new project - I guess I have been busier that I thought. Great subject. I will be following along. Kurt

Stay away from store bought mushrooms then!

I use them in the shop too Bob.

Good idea Roger. I got tied of searching for the pin and after I had to make a replacement pin I drilled through the center as shown by the RED arrow and tethered it to the miter gauge with some flexible, multi strand (7) stainless steel jewelers wire - so I couldn't drop it!. There is a small loop that the screw used to lock the gauge adjustment secures to the gauge - GREEN arrow - with the other end looped through the pin. Jewelers crimps secure the ends of the wire to the wire - they will not come undone. Before I get a bunch of cautions regarding the wire and the saw blade I considered this carefully and experience has shown that the wire is just stiff enough that it will not flop over to the right due to the pinching of the wire by the gauges locking screw - with the knurled knob. I have used this set up for over 10 years w/o a problem. If I ever have a need to undo the wire from where it is held under the screw I will probably shorten the wire a bit. I made it long so I would not have a problem with it being in the way when using the miter gauge but it has proven to be absolutely no problem - and if anybody checks with me in another 10 years I will probably never have actually followed through with shortening the wire. I have never regretted using the wire and from past experience I know I have saved a lot of time. I have never had a need to use the miter gauge to the right of the blade and the extended miter bar will not allow me to do so without it's removal and I am sure I would reverse the wire's positioning to go to the opposite side of the blade. That is when I will shorten the wire for sure! Kurt

The Badger paints are acrylics - thinned with water.

When I developed the Badger line of Marine paints I matched the colors to Snyder and Shorts Paint Chips. I have no idea of the accuracy of the MM paints. But it doesn't matter if the two don't match and you probably don't wish to repaint all the MM covered areas.😊

I previewed the slides for Ron's program today. I wouldn't miss this one if you ever plan to do water in a model display. The water I need to do is pretty calm - a river/canal diorama but I know Ron will provide a lot of info that will help me. Save the date.

Virtual Workshop Saturday, June 17, 2023 10:30 AM Central Time DIORAMA WATER CRAFTING By NRG Director Ron Neilson The workshop will explain various materials and methods for creating realistic-looking seascape settings for large-scale wooden ship models. Ron’s sailing ship dioramas have garnered several awards for his depictions. Sign up information will be sent to all NRG member's on or about June 1. The workshop will explain various materials and methods for creating realistic-looking seascape settings for large-scale wooden ship models. Ron’s sailing ship dioramas have garnered several awards for his depictions. *The HMS Camilla model & her diorama won Best of Show: First Place, Sail and the judged, Jim Roberts Award at the recent 40th Annual Northeast Joint Clubs Ship Modeling Conference & Show, April 29, 2023.

I have the kit plans for this model. I can send them to you. Please contact me by PM. Kurt

Seeing the model rather than just photos was a real treat and it looks even better in person than in the photos. I was extremely pleased to hand the awards to Greg and shake his hand in front of all the other modelers.

We have had very good attendance at the last couple of annual meetings - virtual. I think you meant conference where we hold the meeting.

Thanks. We have been to all these locations - some multiple times.

We toured the USS New Jersey 2X. A lot of places to see for the first time before we do it again.

When we decide that an event is possible we will absolutely keep Bremerton in mind. A conference needs a minimum of 18 months lead time and 24 months is a lot better. I have added your names as contacts in Bremerton if we consider it as a future Conference or regional seminar location.

Chuck: Beautiful model! Have you considered planking one side with the other left as it is at this point?

The 5th add from the top.

As you found out painting the parts with the Badger STYNYLREZ works wonders on the appearance when you add the final colors. Good of the designer sharing that tip with you. STYNYLREZ is a great primer, but many are also using it as a final color with the line of colors now at 18. I like to vary the primer color depending on what the final color will be. An example is using Stynylrez Black as the primer and Under hull Oxide Red as the final color - a much better final result, in my opinion, of the lower hull below the waterline, than using a gray primer. Paints appear differently when applied of different colors of primer - lighter final color, apply over a light primer.

I used Blacken It - started using it many years ago. Used the Birchwood Casey (BC) blackener as a trial after Blacken it disappeared and liked it so much more for brass & copper I never missed Blacken It except for ferrous metals. There are good blackeners for ferrous metals but I don't use much of them as it's easier to machine brass and then used the BC stuff.

Clean & Rough the sheet of PE up with an acidic solution - I use Sparex and then rinse with filtered or distilled water.

Great video Kevin - nicely moderated. Kurt