kurtvd19
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Everything posted by kurtvd19
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Get well soon Keith. Take care, Kurt -
scissors, shears, cutters for rigging
kurtvd19 replied to palmerit's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Check Amazon and eBay - not the surgical quality but we don't have that kind of $$. -
scissors, shears, cutters for rigging
kurtvd19 replied to palmerit's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I agree about the Castrovejo scissors. I got a pair when a surgeon in our club brought a brief case full of various tools & scissors to a meeting. He had purchased them in a retirement sale and I know he made a bit of profit and I still only paid $30. I have since purchased some of them off ebay and I found the ebay scissors to work identically to the original surgeon quality one I originally purchased. Maybe a surgeon could tell the difference but I sure can't. -
The video of Bruce's presentation will be posted on the NRG's website very soon - it is in the hands of the webmaster already. Sorry but its only for NRG members however, once a member, this and many other presentations are viewable as long as membership is maintained.
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scissors, shears, cutters for rigging
kurtvd19 replied to palmerit's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have found surgical scissors to be best for my use. They don't have to be German or Swiss made for this. Kurt -
scissors, shears, cutters for rigging
kurtvd19 replied to palmerit's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Whatever you try start with a brand new tool and don't use it for anything else. You will never be able to tell what will or will not work for you by trying tools used on other materials first. You can always use the brand new tool you tried and found not being the right tool on other tasks after you try it for rigging line but not the other way around. Kurt -
Superb build and excellent craftsmanship. A model to be proud of. I love work boats and models like this reinforce my feelings. Kurt
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- Oyster Sharpie
- first scratch build
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I have the Microlux variable speed drill press with the digital readout. Also the Proxon XY table. Both are more than adequate for my needs with one exception - and all of these small presses have the same problem. The quill has only 1.5 inches of travel. No problem, right? When are you going to need more than 1.5 inches of travel? That limit combined with the short length of the support column makes it difficult to fit the XY table under the drill bit and severely limits any part to be drilled size. The solution is to obtain a longer column (pipe) to raise the drill assembly. I think Proxon lists a part number for a longer support column but you can certainly find a substitute off Amazon or elsewhere for probably half the price of the Proxon part. As long as it is the same diameter there should be no problem. I do not remember if the column is threaded on the lower end or if it is locked in with a set screw, but check the specs and you should be able to determine this before the purchase. As Proxon was your first choice, and the difference in the prices to the lower priced units is only about $50-$60 get the Proxon a nd the longer column right away. You are severely limited when using the XY table and why would you not be using it? Kurt
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Painting question
kurtvd19 replied to jcurtis55's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I do the same with acrylics onto the wood. This is a work boat so you don't want a yacht type of finish on it. I airbrush almost exclusively and with this model I would spay lightly with plain water. This will raise the grain just like the first coat of paint would do. Sand lightly after it drys and respray with water. Repeat the light sanding after it dries and when the paint is applied the wood grain will not swell up. Apply a second coat if needed. If you are brushing, the wood will need somewhat longer to dry because brushing will apply more water than airbrushing, but same procedure. Should have mentioned this first, but the kit wood is Basswood and the grain on Basswood will stand up when paint is applied. Hardwoods are less prone to this but still wetting then sanding will be needed. Kurt -
Regarding you wanting to remake the water level tube. I used a piece of small aluminum tube and painted the ends with brass paint and inserted a wire, bent it to 90 degrees on each end and stuck the ends into the boiler front after painting the wire black. The aluminum tube looks enough like water in the 1/4" scale I was working at and the placement of the boiler without a lot of easy vision to that area so at your scale it should work even better. Kurt Happy New Year Keith and crew!
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I love this book. Every time I pick it up I learn something. Have both versions and I think it is a must have for anybody planning any work with brass. It will save you time and lower your stress. Kurt
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Every barrel starts out new. Having a new barrel is normal - at least for a day or two.
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Don't worry about the hull plank edges not showing. With the overhang of the deck they will be in the shadow of the deck and when you weather the hull it will all blend together.
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These handles are much better regarding comfort. They are available from several sources UMM-USA.com - put "Scalpel" into the search box and hit "enter" - blades and handles will come up. Scroll down a bit. Metal handle is about $8 and the plastic type is $5. I much prefer the metal handle as it is a better fir to my big hands. There are many tools here and John's prices are very good and he's a small business. Amazon is another source.
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The downside I see to keeping models in a cabinet of any type is that when downsizing while the cabinet will have a resale value the models being sold off without a case will have less value. Maybe it's a matter of when you think the cost vs resale value will benefit you the most. I know some modelers who could finance their later years very well by the sale of their models so they get the money instead of their kids or other relatives.
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I always case my models. For many years I made a lot of money repairing uncased models due to kids, animals and the accumulation of dirt on the models. Rigging and sails exposed to the home or office environment take their toll. I always advise modelers and owners to case their models. Maybe not a consideration for modelers, but even with the higher cost of Plexiglas I always urge the owner to case the model because it is cheaper than paying somebody like me to clean and repair their uncased model. Kurt
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I use acetone. Get a bit undone and using a pipette or eyedropper put some acetone between the sandpaper and the disc. Keep adding the acetone as you peel the sandpaper off. If it's real hard to get the separation started apply some acetone the the top of the disc/sandpaper joint and let it work for a bit and you should be able to get the job started. You don't need a lot of acetone but apply it as you strip off the sandpaper right where the sandpaper is still stuck to the disc. Good luck. Kurt
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I have not been able to see a bunch of smaller boats and have not seen anything like this but there are only a few ways to transmit the steering to the rudders and small boats used simple arrangements. Rope around the steering wheel drum down through the floor to pulleys from the roof (directly under the wheel) to pulleys close to the left and right walls of the engine room to about the middle of the engine room and then through pulleys back to the center area of the engine room and then attached to the end of each tiller. Simple and fool proof. Tugs used the same arrangement and ran the ropes to the side of the structure and to the pulleys going astern where they were attached to chains that ran in a trough to the stern where they attached to the steering quadrant. The chain troughs were covered with a lid to keep out most of the rain and snow so the chains didn't freeze in water. Sometimes the troughs were above the deck instead of inlaid into them and drain holes were provided to drain any water. Many different ways were provided to transmit the steering input to the rudders, but what Eric described is simple and the most likely method used. Kurt
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I believe Eric is 100% correct. This is the only way I can see that the steering can work. I have been working nonstop on some NRG stuff plus a model commission that has been taking up all my time. Just saw the rudder question today or I would have commented as Eric did. Kurt
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Make the door swing out. Or consider swapping door and window as Keith mentioned - for visibility for the Capt. Kurt
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Bruce: Just had time to actually look at your build log (11-18-24) and am now following along (11-04-24). Great attention to detail. Will be going back to day 1 and catch up. Take care, Kurt
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They have had this promo going for a long time. I think it is a great promo and should encourage more builds. Kurt
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I would recommend centering the stack as well as the wheel. The Capt would stand to one side or the other and operate the wheel from directly behind the handles on the spokes. Some wheels were quite tall and it was much easier to operate the wheel from one side or the other. Being offset to steer makes the issue of seeing around the stack unimportant. These boats and especially if pushing a barge required the Capt. to be looking way out in front of the boat or the Boat/Barge tow. The throttle and whistle controls were offset to one side or the other or provided on both sides of the wheel thus making the operation of the wheel from behind the spoke handles. This has carried over to this day. Kurt
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Beginner - Rigging Tools
kurtvd19 replied to nheather's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Nigel: We have some meetings where we bring our favorite tools to discuss. The Loom A Line (LoL) has never once been brought to a meeting as a favorite tool. In fact one meeting night I added a sub topic "Bring a tool that should never have been made or purchased. Three (3) brought Loom A Lines! For a very good reason - it is useless. Better to set up a jig to hold the mast with space below for the dead eyes and aligned as per the plans. They are most of the time at angles - at the most only one shroud will be directly line up with the dead eye's position per the plans using the LoL. There is one other jig for doing what the LoL is supposed to do and that is the jig available from Model Expo that has adjustments for the dead eyes as well as height adjustment. I stick with doing the rigging off the model but using the actual mast and locating the dead eyes below per the plan. Kurt -
Absolute beginner here - new to ship modeling
kurtvd19 replied to AlanR's topic in New member Introductions
I definitely back up this recommendation highly and further suggest you skip the plastic lens versions & get glass lenses - a bit more $ but later when you really need them you will be glad you spent the extra $. I am at the stage now that I am going to hang them next to my shop door so they are the first thing I grab and the last thing I put away. Kurt
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