kurtvd19

There wasn't a user manual when Preac was in business. If I remember correctly there was a single sheet of information. I agree that a book on table saw use is good regardless of the size saw you have. The Preac saw motor is under powered for hard use. There is a motor upgrade available for $100 that provides every thing one needs to upgrade to the bigger motor. I purchased it and it is good quality and overcomes the power issue. However nothing can fix the maximum cut of 1/4 inch. It has it's uses and I will never part with my Preac even though I have two Byrnes saws.

Brian: Do you have a zero clearance insert for your saw blade? The use of one for each saw blade cuts down on the splintering on plywood. Makes a much cleaner cut. Tell your wife that the Byrnes saw is a matter of saving your fingers. While it is quite capable of taking off a digit or two it being smaller and sized to the work you do with models makes it safer to use than the big shop saw. Kurt

I keep a rubber cleaning block meant to clean sanding discs and belts on my bench if using sandpaper on the char as Chuck describes. The rubber when dragged across the sandpaper will remove the char from the sandpaper. If you use a disc sander or a belt sander you probably have used one of these cleaning blocks. Available at most stores selling sanding tool - even Micro-Mark has them. This will prolong the usefulness of the sandpaper.

With your help, our hobby has a bright future Dear Friend of the Nautical Research Guild & Model Ship World. Our shared passion for model ships and maritime subjects has brought serious ship modeling hobbyists together in previously unimaginable ways as we have tried to keep our unique pastime viable and vibrant for you, the members of the NRG and our Model Ship World forum. The NRG’s directors – along with other volunteers – have been working harder than ever to connect with you as well as keep you informed and focused on the future of model ship building. It’s been a privilege to engage many of you in online activity and to see so many new visitors to the NRG and MSW web sites; our broad resources are now more accessible than ever before with a dramatically expanded and improved internet presence. In order to sustain as well as increase our ability to plan for the future, we need your help. Your support enables us to ensure we can continue to expand our offerings, such as online workshops, a scholarship program as well as more diverse modeling projects and even helpful, affordable tools. It’s for all these reasons that we ask for your help right now. Please make a gift to the NRG for 2022 so we can do more to support this hobby that you and other members enjoy. The NRG is a 501(c)(3) not-for-profit corporation. If you are a U.S. taxpayer, your donation is tax deductible; of course, all donations are appreciated no matter where in the world you live. Can we count on your support? Thank You, The Directors of the Nautical Research Guild –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– For your convenience, donations may be made online at the NRG website or here on the MSW homepage by clicking the Donate Now button. Donations can be made with PayPal or your check made payable to the NRG,** and sent to our office: The NRG 237 S Lincoln St, Westmont, IL 60559 *Checks must be issued from a U.S.- based bank. **If you wish your donation to be used for maintaining our MSW forum, please make a notation on the check or on a separate piece of paper to indicate this preference. Please Do not make your check payable to ModelShipWorld!

I think I would have great difficulty working between the walls of the work area on anything bigger than a few inches long. There is barely room for my two hands between the walls let alone a model of any size. Think about the attitude of your hands when working on a model - I doubt they are at a right angle to your arm - not much room for a model.

For the future I suggest you do a personal build log. I have always done this so I can remember the paints and glues used and where used. If I mix a color I record the paints used and the ratio of each so in case of needing a repair I can duplicate the color. Woods and other materials and where they were used is also a good idea to record. Upon completion of a model all the information is saved in a note book for later use. Of course if you are doing a build log to share here you can everything recorded here.

You should be fine to go.

I would add epoxy to the interior of the hull from the waterline (at minimum) to the keel paying extra attention to any hull penetrations. If unable to access the entire area I described I would absolutely get epoxy around the prop shaft penetration and any other penetrations at minimum. The hull will not be in the water for days at a time, more likely less that a couple of hours. It takes time for water to soak into any exposed wood you might have missed and if you are like most RC boaters it will have at least a week to dry out - keep the interior of the hull accessible to the air. Next time use glass cloth. It is easier than you think. Kurt

Gary: I think you have convinced me to get the large table for my original saw (2003). I have a second Byrnes saw and will switch them around as I have the original set up for ripping and the 2nd saw set up for crosscutting. I noticed in your first photo that the Preac saw in the background seems to have some modification (or a fixture) next to the fence. Can you provide and explanation and/or a photograph of the saw? I had my Preac (1995) long before the Byrnes saw and I have continued to use it as there is just some stuff II consider too small for the Byrnes saw. Always interested in accessories or modifications others have come up with for the Preac. Take care, Kurt

Still want to build this someday. Great work Pat. I need to do a model of the Chicago Fire Boat Joseph Medill - Engine 37 first. I have a bunch of the original construction prints to work from.

Absolutely against the National Building Code - Residential and Commercial.

In box review of the Model Shipways Nonsuch 30 Scale 1:24 - Length: 16" Width: 6" Height: 30" Kit #MS 1475 and Kit #MS 1475CBT This is another excellent kit designed by David Antscherl with the support of Mark Ellis, the designer of the Nonsuch 30 and the other boats developed for the Nonsuch line of Fibreglass hulled yachts that were manufactured in Ontario, Canada. The Nonsuch 30 was the first of the series built in 1978. The series grew to included boats of 22, 26, 33 and 40 feet, all derived from the original Nonsuch 30 design. The Nonsuch series of boats were manufactured until the mid-90’s. MODEL & PHOTOGRAPHS ( directly above & below) by David Antscherl When I first picked up the box it felt as heavy as most Model Shipway kits. However, when I opened the blue box from Model Shipways, my immediate thought was that half of the kit had to be missing. I was surprised to see a single bag with a stack of laser cut sheets of Basswood and a long plastic bag with a single piece of strip wood and a wooden dowel and another bag of cast metal parts. The instructions, plan sheets and sail cloth completed the contents. I immediately found the parts list to check on what was missing. The contents of the box checked out to be 100% complete. Box with plans and instructions removed The heft of the contents is mostly in the sixteen (16) sheets of Basswood. Thicknesses of the sheets are 1/32” – 6, 1/16” – 1, 3/32” – 3, 1/8” – 2, 3/16” – 1 and 1/4" – 3. Laser cut sheets The wooden dowel, wood strip & brass rod The cast pieces and brass pieces are in plastic bags. The castings all appear to be new castings for this model – except for the cleats. The castings are very crisp and mostly flash free with only minor seam lines. None have any offset to the casting halves. There are two sheets of plans. The plan sheet is used to identify parts of the assembly with the details of construction covered in the twenty-seven pages of the instruction manual that includes 126 full color photographs and 4-line drawings. While the plans are meant for overall identification and location of parts and rigging there are eight detail drawings on the main sheet. All rigging lines are identified as well as routing of the rigging. I was impressed by the overall quality of the kit components. The plans are well done, and the instruction manual is exceptionally good with clear full-color photographs and precise step-by-step directions. Tips are provided on construction techniques and super detailing tips are provided. I highly recommend this kit for modelers with a few kits under their belts as there are advanced skills needed to complete the kit. Model & Photograph by David Antscherl Thanks to Marc Mosko, owner of Model Expo for providing the kit for review. Thanks to David Antscherl for providing the photographs of the completed model. Thanks to both for bringing another model accurate to the original boat, by enlisting the aid of the designer of the Nonsuch 30, to assure the kit is accurate to the original. Thanks for adding another great kit to the hobby. Two kit numbers are shown at the beginning of this review. The 1475 designation is the complete kit and instructions for the kit as reviewed. The 1475CBT is the kit plus a set of seven bottles of their acrylic house brand paint set specific to this model, three paint brushes, C/A glue, wood glue, hobby knife, extra blades – 2 types, pin vise, and two grades of sandpaper. The tools, glue and paints provided are good quality and the additional cost difference between the two kits is only $30. The paint set’s list price of $34.99 by itself is more than the $30 price difference between the kits, making it a great deal if the paint and tools are needed. Even if you have all the tools and just need the paints why not order the 1475CBT kit and give the tools to a starting modeler in your club?

Between the MSW members here and the NRG Members (notified by a mass email) Gery tells me she's been quite busy shipping books. Mary bought me the 4 Swan Series books by Antscherl and Herbert and two others - early Christmas present. I am sure there will be few left when everybody gets their orders in.

The radar looks right for the scale of the boat. No idea on the anchor. Great build!

The name brand airbrushes have high quality control standards and a name to uphold while the no name or rip offs have zero to very little QC and are usually using cheap components. Good luck getting some help from them. Needle bushings are probably too tight if the needle isn't moving on a new brush. If it's a used brush it might be bushings but more likely dried paint.

Roger: They have been m ailed but not until Thursday the 21st. Paper shortages and equipment issues contributed to the lateness of this issue. The paper shortages will probably continue for several more months - but our printer has been doing his best to get us good paper - within a system that has severe supply chain issues from production to shipping & delivery.

NRG VIRTUAL WORKSHOP STRATEGIC DETAILING – PART TWO Saturday, July 23, 2021 10:30 AM CST. If you saw Part One, you don’t want to miss Part Two. Part One is currently available for viewing on the website PREREGISTRATION IS REQUIRED. REMEMBER YOU MUST BE LOGGED IN TO REGISTER OR VIEW VIDEOS Click HERE to register. Please do not call or email the office – we have automated the registration process. If you plan to attend you must register no later than 5:00 PM CST on July 22, 2021. All registrants will get an emailed invitation with the required link to attend on or about July 22. Please join the event with your video camera off and your microphone muted.

Yes, that's a great video. Shows exactly how it works. I will keep the link so when I get asked how it works I can give the link to our members. Thanks for providing the link. Leave it to Woodpecker though to over engineer yet another tool to make it un-affordable to 90% of the population. I drool over how well made their stuff is and if money were no object would probably have a couple of their tools. The local Woodcraft store will order them for you but they don't stock any of their products because 90% of their customers look at them the same way I do - admire from a distance.

tHANKS

Thanks Bruce.

Very nice model. Congratulations on a job well done.

Your hobby shop doesn't rebrand it. Smith does that for any store or business when they order the second time - they ask and if you want it the do it from then on. You will see that Model Expo and others use it too.

You picked the absolute best brand of epoxy. I use only Bob Smith epoxies. I use 5, 15 and 30 minute. Bob Smith is the only brand of C/A that I use.

It was actually posted on MSW and was moved to the NRG's website with other articles. When it was reviewed by staff it was deleted due to some inaccurate information and formatting issues. It will not be re-posted. There is a paper on planking now in progress that will be posted shortly.

Thanks.