Jeff-E

Hello All,
The next lines that were attached were the foreyard lifts, the fore topsail sheets, the clue garnets and the yard tackle pendants. Because these photos were taken after all the lines were rigged I have posted two of the same photo, one labeled and one unlabeled, for a bit of clarity, I hope.
The first two are a general view of the yard lifts, sheets, clueline and yard pendants and after that a brief description of the marked lines.
                             
                             
The yard lifts are made from 0.5mm tan thread and the it's end is seized into the eye on the single block on the mast cap and reeves through another single block stropped to the sheet block attached to the end of the yard then back through the block on the mast cap and down to the deck where it reeves through a kevel block fitted to the inboard rail at the fore end of the fore channel.
The topsail sheet line was made from 0.75mm tan thread and was secured by knot in the end of it to the sheet block at the end of the yard and then down through the sheet blocks on the underside of the yard next to the mast and down to belay to inner sheave on the topsail bitts.
The clue garnet is made from 0.5mm tan thread and one end is secured to the yard with a timber hitch just outside the clue line block attached to the yard, it reeves through the block attached to the tack blocks and then through the clue line block on the yard and then down to belay on the outer sheave on topsail bitts.
I decided to show the yard tackle pendants rigged instead of being tied up to the yards as they normally would be when not in use. Rigging them also made the yard a bit more secure. They are made from 2 double blocks one on a pendant of 0.75mm thread 50mm long attached to the end of the mast the other block has a hook stropped to it and an eye formed in the other end of the strop so that the falls can be attached. The falls were made from 0.25mm tan thread and reeved through the blocks and belayed to one of the posts on the side rail. 
The outer tricing line is made from 0.10mm tan thread and was used to haul the yard pendant up against the yard when it wasn't in use. It reeves through a single block attached to the yard and then through another single block attached to the first shroud at the futtock stave and then down to belay on deck. The inner tricing line attached to the other double block just above the hook and reeves through a single block fixed to the front shroud next to the block for the outer tricing line and belays on the deck. It is not shown on the model.
The next few photos show some of the belaying points and the sheet an tack blocks rigged.
                        
                         
                         
Thanks for looking in and the likes.
 

Hello All,
The first photo is of the foreyard sling which I forgot to post yesterday showing how the eye and the other leg of the sling are seized together.
                            
The thimble on the yard sling was then lashed to the thimble on the yard with 0.25mm black thread. The truss pendants and jeers were set up next.
                           
                           
As can be seen in the above photos the falls for the jeers, which is 0.75mm tan thread, is attached to the yard with a timber hitch and reeved through the jeers blocks and down to the deck where it made fast on the main topbowline bits (the pinrail on the aft side of the foremast). Also you can see the lashing for the yard sling. 
                          
There are two truss pendants on the foreyard, port and starboard, they were made from 0.75mm tan thread and an eye was formed in the end of each one, they were then seized around the yard (which can be seen more clearly in post# 377 on this page) with the starboard side pointing up and the port side pointing down on the aft side of the yard. The running end of the port pendant reeves through the starboard eye while the running end of the starboard pendant reeves through the port eye. Two double blocks are used for rigging each pendant one attached to the end of the pendant approximately 75mm off the deck and the other attached to a hook and eye bolt fitted to the deck either side of the mast just in front of the aft pin rail. The falls are made from 0.25mm tan thread, reeved through the blocks to belay on the cleats attached to the lower front side on the mast.
                        
The nave line, which serves to hold up the truss pendants, was made from 0.10mm tan thread. This line is made up in two parts first a short length of line is attached using eye splices to each truss pendant then a length of line is attached to the span using an eye splice and then reeved through a single block attached to the after cross tree and belaying to the centre pin on the main top bowline bitts.
                       
Thanks for looking and the likes.
 
 

Hello All, 
The snaking between the forestay and the fore preventer stay was the next job. I used 0.25mm black thread for this, tying it to the stay at the point of each triangle with a length of the same thread and then adjusted them till I was happy with the outcome.
                                                  
                                               
They were then glued and trimmed. The ratlines on the foremast shrouds and futtock shrouds were next these were done with 0.10mm tan thread and were left in their natural state, I was going to paint them black but I like the contrast in colours and there are a few photos floating around on the web that show tan or white line used as ratlines even some older ones of the Victory herself at Portsmouth.
                           
                       
They were tied on using a clove hitch and then glued and trimmed after that the ratlines and shrouds were given a coat of diluted PVA glue. The bumpkin stays were added next, this is a two legged stay with an eye made in the middle of it which fits over the end of the bumpkin and rests on a shoulder machined on the end of the bumpkin also holding the foresheet tack block in position between it and the shoulder. The two legs have a hook seized into the end of each one and hook into eye bolts located in the stem.
The photo is a bit out of focus, sorry.
                          
I fitted the boarding pikes to their rack on the foremast next before too much rigging got in the way, the shafts were made from bamboo drawn down to 1mm and the tips from flattened brass nails they were then stained and painted.
                      
                     
Thanks for looking.
               

Hello All,
The bowsprit shrouds were the next item to be fitted there are two on each side and they are attached to the hull by means of a hook and eye in the lower wale at the bow just outside where the lower stem decoration rail finishes.
 
                                
                                
After all of the foremast shroud, forestays, bobstays and bowsprit shrouds were fitted the foremast shrouds underwent their final tension adjustment and the seizings were finished off and they were glued and trimmed.
The futtock staves were fitted next. The rule for fitting these is that they are fitted at a level as much below the upper edge of the trestle tree as top of the lower mast cap is above it.
                              
                              
The staves were made from bamboo drawn down to 1mm in diameter. The hooks for the futtock shrouds were made from 2mm copper eye pins bent to shape.
                             
The futtock shrouds were made from 0.75mm black thread and fitted and tensioned by passing a loop around the fore shroud and the stave and seizing the tail to the fore shroud. 
                            
                            
Thanks for looking and the likes
 
 
 

Hello All,
This post covers the fitting of the fore and preventer stays and the bobstays.
The forestay was made from 1.7mm tan thread because I could not find any black thread of that size to buy and I do not have the facilities to make my own. It was blackened by drawing it through some black rigging wax that I had. The mouse was made from 3mm dowel and drilled out to take the thread.
                                            
A 10mm Heart was seized to the end of the stay and it was then lashed to the corresponding heart on the bowsprit.
                       
The preventer stay was made the same way as the forestay except using 1mm thread and it was also fitted to the model.
                                                  
                                                 
The bobstays were the next piece of rigging to be fitted. There are three of them, The first two are straightforward being seized to holes drilled into the stem but the third or outer stay has two legs which run together down to the stem and then split and are anchored by a hook seized into an eye at the end of each leg to an eyebolt in the bow on either side of the stem.
                               
The above photo is of the outer bobstay.
                               
                              
The second photo shows how the outer bobstay splits at the stem and  attaches to the hull.
 
Thanks for the likes, that is all for this post I will post some more progress soon.
 
 

Hello All,
It has been quite a while since I posted to this site but having finished this model a couple of years ago I decided it was to time to complete this log. Looking back through the log it appears I left off just before the foremast was fitted and the rigging stage started.
I thought I had taken a lot more photos of the final stages of the build than I could find but either I hadn't or if I did I can't find them, however I have found enough to show the rigging of the model and I apologise in advance for the quality and composition of some of them as they were taken in my old workspace before I refurbished it.
Righto on with log, I wanted to replicate as much of the rigging that is on the actual ship so before I started the rigging I made up a list of the quantity, line size and the block size and type required for both the standing and running rigging. The list for the standing rigging is in the first photo.
                                                    
 
The foremast was glued into place and then the shrouds were fitted in pairs. They were set up with the help of two jigs made from brass wire to give a gap between the top and bottom holes in the deadeyes of 25mm. They can be seen in use in the second photo.
 
                                      
                                    
                                      
 
The next two photos shows the rigging of the shrouds completed however the seizing on the lower shrouds has not been finished to allow for some adjustment to the tension, if required, after the forestays have been fitted.
                                     
                                      
  The next parts that were added were the fore and preventer stay collars to the bowsprit. They were made from walnut and limewood stock respectively and lashed to their collars. 
                                       
That's all for this post. I will post some more soon
 
 

Hello All, 
After the keel and stern counter were dry the stern counter was planked. The sternpost was fitted temporarily so that the planks were laid hard up against it to eliminate any gap when it permanently fixed.
      
The next step was to add the black strake and the wales. The positioning of these planks is important to determine the rest of the run of second planks above and below the wale. The first plank is position so that it sits 1.5mm below gunports 2 thru 5 and is the allowed to follow it's natural lie fore and aft of these points.
      
      
       
The wale plank is laid directly underneath the first plank and is the same material as the first, 4 x 1 mm walnut and both planks are untapered. A 4 x 0.5 mm plank is then laid on top of the first plank and a 4 x 1 mm plank is laid on top of the second plank forming the black strake and wale.
       
        
        
I like this method of approaching the second planking, laying the wales first, as it gives you a clear line above and below it for the run of planks. The other kits I have done have you complete the second planking first and then add the wales over the top of it. If it is practical I will use this method in future builds.
All comments welcome 
Thanks for looking and the likes.
 
 
 

Hello All, 
After the keel and stern counter were dry the stern counter was planked. The sternpost was fitted temporarily so that the planks were laid hard up against it to eliminate any gap when it permanently fixed.
      
The next step was to add the black strake and the wales. The positioning of these planks is important to determine the rest of the run of second planks above and below the wale. The first plank is position so that it sits 1.5mm below gunports 2 thru 5 and is the allowed to follow it's natural lie fore and aft of these points.
      
      
       
The wale plank is laid directly underneath the first plank and is the same material as the first, 4 x 1 mm walnut and both planks are untapered. A 4 x 0.5 mm plank is then laid on top of the first plank and a 4 x 1 mm plank is laid on top of the second plank forming the black strake and wale.
       
        
        
I like this method of approaching the second planking, laying the wales first, as it gives you a clear line above and below it for the run of planks. The other kits I have done have you complete the second planking first and then add the wales over the top of it. If it is practical I will use this method in future builds.
All comments welcome 
Thanks for looking and the likes.
 
 
 

Hello All, 
The first planking was completed without an further issues and a few hollows were filled. 
     
      
      
      
The hull was sanded and the planks were trimmed at the bow to allow the stem post to fit snugly between them.
I cut a 1 x1 mm rabbet into the stem post and keel using a 1mm milling bit in my dremel mounted on it's drill stand. I mounted the part to be machined in a vice and then set the depth of the cut on the drill stand and manoeuvred the vice underneath it by hand as I don't have an 'X' 'Y' machining table. The cuts are not as accurate as you would get them with a table but I think they turned out OK.
After the rabbets were cut the stem and keel were doweled and glued to the hull.
      
       
The rabbet can seen in the above photo. The stern extensions and the stern counter were then fitted.
       
All comments welcome.
Thanks for looking and the likes.
  

Hello All,
The first planking is the next stage of the build. As mentioned earlier, when I restarted this log, this is where my problems began that caused me to shelve the build.
The main problem was at the bow as the planks started to curve down towards the keel I noticed a clinkering effect was starting to appear and to get the planks to butt up flush with the plank above it a gap was formed between the plank and the frames, especially on the first 3 frames from the bow. This got worse the further down towards the keel I went and I started to add spacers in between the plank and the frame. I stopped after I had added 4 planks to the starboard side and 5 to the port side. The gap between the last plank laid on the port side and frame 2 was about 1mm was only going to get worse if I continued so that is when it went on the shelf for a while, quite a long while as it turned out.
So when I got it out again and had a good look at it the only thing I could think of that would cause the planks to lay as they were was that the frames had not been faired correctly so I removed all the planks except for the first one on each side that sits under the gunport patterns. I made up two bow filler blocks from pine and fitted them in between frames 1 and 2, which I was going to fit in the first place but decided against it because I did not think they would be needed on such a small hull. After fitting them I carefully faired the hull again paying special attention to the bow area and checking the lay of the planks as I went. It turns out I wasn't far out with the original fairing but enough to cause me problems. I decided when fitting the planks this time I would fit the garboard strake and the plank next to it and then plank alternately from the top down and the bottom up. Thankfully Caldercraft supplied enough planks in the kit to cover my mistake.
I cannot find any photos of the planking before it was removed but below are a few photos of how the new planks went on.
    
     
     
You should be able to see the bow filler blocks in the second and third photo. All of the planks except the first one underneath the gunport pattern and the garboard strake were tapered at the bow, most of them to 2mm (half their width). They were shaped at the bow and the stern by soaking them in water and then pinning them to the model and allowing them to dry and then finally gluing them on.
    
    
   Even after tapering them to half their original width a stealer was still need at the bow.
   
Thanks for looking and the likes.
 

I'm bothered by the colours . I see the pictures and visited the Victory 5 years ago, and you represent them well. But, the coloring of the gun carriages and matching  inner walls yellow and others white seem ? anachronistic. With other boats, in books and google images, natural wood, red or black seem to be the rule. Did you (or others) find any info about this.( The recent change in the colour of the external ship, is noteworthy.)

Hello All, 
The first planking was completed without an further issues and a few hollows were filled. 
     
      
      
      
The hull was sanded and the planks were trimmed at the bow to allow the stem post to fit snugly between them.
I cut a 1 x1 mm rabbet into the stem post and keel using a 1mm milling bit in my dremel mounted on it's drill stand. I mounted the part to be machined in a vice and then set the depth of the cut on the drill stand and manoeuvred the vice underneath it by hand as I don't have an 'X' 'Y' machining table. The cuts are not as accurate as you would get them with a table but I think they turned out OK.
After the rabbets were cut the stem and keel were doweled and glued to the hull.
      
       
The rabbet can seen in the above photo. The stern extensions and the stern counter were then fitted.
       
All comments welcome.
Thanks for looking and the likes.
  

Hello All, 
The first planking was completed without an further issues and a few hollows were filled. 
     
      
      
      
The hull was sanded and the planks were trimmed at the bow to allow the stem post to fit snugly between them.
I cut a 1 x1 mm rabbet into the stem post and keel using a 1mm milling bit in my dremel mounted on it's drill stand. I mounted the part to be machined in a vice and then set the depth of the cut on the drill stand and manoeuvred the vice underneath it by hand as I don't have an 'X' 'Y' machining table. The cuts are not as accurate as you would get them with a table but I think they turned out OK.
After the rabbets were cut the stem and keel were doweled and glued to the hull.
      
       
The rabbet can seen in the above photo. The stern extensions and the stern counter were then fitted.
       
All comments welcome.
Thanks for looking and the likes.
  

Some minor stuff and hull is almost done. Next is the keels and then painting.

Thank you very much!
 
 The first set of eyebolts with double blocks are on!  The long 12’s are done!

The bow chasers are done:

Started friday. After reading through your blog, I realize that much advanced planning is needed especially with the painting and I will put more effort into upgrades than I originally planned.  

Hello All,
The first planking is the next stage of the build. As mentioned earlier, when I restarted this log, this is where my problems began that caused me to shelve the build.
The main problem was at the bow as the planks started to curve down towards the keel I noticed a clinkering effect was starting to appear and to get the planks to butt up flush with the plank above it a gap was formed between the plank and the frames, especially on the first 3 frames from the bow. This got worse the further down towards the keel I went and I started to add spacers in between the plank and the frame. I stopped after I had added 4 planks to the starboard side and 5 to the port side. The gap between the last plank laid on the port side and frame 2 was about 1mm was only going to get worse if I continued so that is when it went on the shelf for a while, quite a long while as it turned out.
So when I got it out again and had a good look at it the only thing I could think of that would cause the planks to lay as they were was that the frames had not been faired correctly so I removed all the planks except for the first one on each side that sits under the gunport patterns. I made up two bow filler blocks from pine and fitted them in between frames 1 and 2, which I was going to fit in the first place but decided against it because I did not think they would be needed on such a small hull. After fitting them I carefully faired the hull again paying special attention to the bow area and checking the lay of the planks as I went. It turns out I wasn't far out with the original fairing but enough to cause me problems. I decided when fitting the planks this time I would fit the garboard strake and the plank next to it and then plank alternately from the top down and the bottom up. Thankfully Caldercraft supplied enough planks in the kit to cover my mistake.
I cannot find any photos of the planking before it was removed but below are a few photos of how the new planks went on.
    
     
     
You should be able to see the bow filler blocks in the second and third photo. All of the planks except the first one underneath the gunport pattern and the garboard strake were tapered at the bow, most of them to 2mm (half their width). They were shaped at the bow and the stern by soaking them in water and then pinning them to the model and allowing them to dry and then finally gluing them on.
    
    
   Even after tapering them to half their original width a stealer was still need at the bow.
   
Thanks for looking and the likes.
 

Hello All,
The first planking is the next stage of the build. As mentioned earlier, when I restarted this log, this is where my problems began that caused me to shelve the build.
The main problem was at the bow as the planks started to curve down towards the keel I noticed a clinkering effect was starting to appear and to get the planks to butt up flush with the plank above it a gap was formed between the plank and the frames, especially on the first 3 frames from the bow. This got worse the further down towards the keel I went and I started to add spacers in between the plank and the frame. I stopped after I had added 4 planks to the starboard side and 5 to the port side. The gap between the last plank laid on the port side and frame 2 was about 1mm was only going to get worse if I continued so that is when it went on the shelf for a while, quite a long while as it turned out.
So when I got it out again and had a good look at it the only thing I could think of that would cause the planks to lay as they were was that the frames had not been faired correctly so I removed all the planks except for the first one on each side that sits under the gunport patterns. I made up two bow filler blocks from pine and fitted them in between frames 1 and 2, which I was going to fit in the first place but decided against it because I did not think they would be needed on such a small hull. After fitting them I carefully faired the hull again paying special attention to the bow area and checking the lay of the planks as I went. It turns out I wasn't far out with the original fairing but enough to cause me problems. I decided when fitting the planks this time I would fit the garboard strake and the plank next to it and then plank alternately from the top down and the bottom up. Thankfully Caldercraft supplied enough planks in the kit to cover my mistake.
I cannot find any photos of the planking before it was removed but below are a few photos of how the new planks went on.
    
     
     
You should be able to see the bow filler blocks in the second and third photo. All of the planks except the first one underneath the gunport pattern and the garboard strake were tapered at the bow, most of them to 2mm (half their width). They were shaped at the bow and the stern by soaking them in water and then pinning them to the model and allowing them to dry and then finally gluing them on.
    
    
   Even after tapering them to half their original width a stealer was still need at the bow.
   
Thanks for looking and the likes.
 

Progress so far.
 
Finished 2nd planking. Needs little sanding. Started with those extensions on side (dont know english word for that).
Also started bending rails and deck profiles.
 
Seems i should get myself naval dictionary.
 
Good news is that also recived books about rigging. Have read them and also looked Terror drawings-now feel much more comftrable about that.
 
Good is that i learn so much aling the way so next build will be much better in quality. 
 
 

I’m pre-tying rigging blocks to eyebolts to make installing easier.  I need to make 72 of them.  

These are Tichy HO scale eyebolts with 3mm double blocks from Model Shipways.

For those having difficulty with rigging thread fuzzing out, I use a block of beeswax to prevent this.

Further thought- how to display. Not sure which is the best view , so why not a square base that can rotate ?

There is a special place in the model builder's heaven for such as you. I bought this as a "quicky" before starting scratch Rattlesnake. But, on reading the instructions several times I found them WORSE than those of a generation ago and only after seeing your blog, are they understandable .( The Coral Victory was my second built.) Also, the build can be improved immensely by your attention to detail and skill. Thank you.

Hello All,
After the structure had dried the frames were faired.
        
       
The stempost in the first photo is only temporarily fitted. I have decided to leave the stempost and keel off the model until the first planking is completed.
The next job was to fit the gunport patterns, they are cut from 0.8mm ply and are fairly fragile so I made a jig from a strip of 2mm aluminium bent around the gunport former to give me their shape at the bow.
      
      
The ply gunport patterns were then soaked in water for about 1 hour and then clamped to the jig and allowed to dry.
      
After they had dried they were glued to the model following the instructions in the manual.
      
      
The model was then set aside to dry for 24 hrs.
All comments welcome.
Thanks for looking and the likes.
 
 
 

And a few more....
                     
                     
                     
                     
Thanks to all of those who looked in and left comments or likes. I am quite happy with how the finished model turned out with all of the modifications and enhancements I made to the original kit.
Thanks again for looking.