Cabbie
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Cabbie got a reaction from mtaylor in Birch Plywood
Hi LL Mike be careful with the mdf it will move as much as a real piece of wood.
It is not always flat, and if it decides it wants to expand ect it will.
Hooroo Chris
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Cabbie got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in Birch Plywood
Hi LL Mike be careful with the mdf it will move as much as a real piece of wood.
It is not always flat, and if it decides it wants to expand ect it will.
Hooroo Chris
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Cabbie got a reaction from Canute in Birch Plywood
Hi LL Mike be careful with the mdf it will move as much as a real piece of wood.
It is not always flat, and if it decides it wants to expand ect it will.
Hooroo Chris
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Cabbie got a reaction from Canute in To spile or not to spile...
I think you are on the right track Ian,
Make a plank out of more segments for which you might be able to a wider one for bigger curves.
Still i think that 400mm to 500mm planks would be near the max width to get any sort of length if that.
so i think that I will work out my planking based on this idea.
Cheers Chris
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Cabbie reacted to mtaylor in To spile or not to spile...
On spiling.. if you line off the hull per the tutorials at bow, the planks will need a taper. If it gets too 'thin' on the taper, a drop plank will be needed. At the stern, if the needed planks get too wide, stealer time. The tutorials are a big help and about the only difference is the method in laying out the runs of the planks.
On plank width... shoot for a plank length around 28-32 feet or so... It's going to vary from place to place depending on what was available at time. Width could be 6" to 12" wide... again, depending on what was available.
Crackers... microwaving works but you'd best move it to the workshop as the planks cool down fast, in my experience. I've been using the curling iron method which works for me. I'm trying the Chuck heat gun method but so far, I don't have the hang of it.
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Cabbie got a reaction from Seventynet in To spile or not to spile...
Hi Ian Stock is no problem as I am cutting planks myself.
What I want to know is, what is the max width of planks that would have been used
back in the past when these ships were built.
On my Endeavour i would need planks that would have 900mm plus in width
I don't think that would have been done.
Thanks Chris
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Cabbie got a reaction from Canute in To spile or not to spile...
Timely topic for me, thanks Fish
I have just started 2nd planking my Endeavour and have been pondering the correct way to do it.
What is the proper way? Do I need to make all the planks go forward?
Or do it as the replica has been done.
Another question, What would be the max width plank used for spiling?
The Jarrah I am using will only side bend a tiny bit, but the pine I used for the 1st planking
could nearly be tied in knots after soaking.
Which has me thinking that if a plank will side bend then do it. If not then spile.
Thanks Chris
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Cabbie reacted to Seventynet in To spile or not to spile...
Hi Chris,
I think the only thing that will tell you how wide the plank needs to be is the curve itself and the length of the plank - revealed through the many techniques used to define the spile. I use transparent tape. Anyway, the wood I used (mansonia aka African walnut) became more conducive to edge bending through two approaches - tapering (and there's where you can do a semi-spile by cutting/sanding part of the curve into the plank you are tapering) - and steaming/soaking the plank, then prebending and clamping it into the actual bend (let it dry, refine the fit and then glue in place). I do not think you risk a plank popping later on if you follow that method. However, there is a limit to how far you can edge bend and the wood will tell you that (it will fold in on itself). Again, IMHO, spiling is the preferred way if you can get the stock.
Best, Ian
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Cabbie got a reaction from mtaylor in To spile or not to spile...
Timely topic for me, thanks Fish
I have just started 2nd planking my Endeavour and have been pondering the correct way to do it.
What is the proper way? Do I need to make all the planks go forward?
Or do it as the replica has been done.
Another question, What would be the max width plank used for spiling?
The Jarrah I am using will only side bend a tiny bit, but the pine I used for the 1st planking
could nearly be tied in knots after soaking.
Which has me thinking that if a plank will side bend then do it. If not then spile.
Thanks Chris
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Cabbie reacted to fish in To spile or not to spile...
In David Antscherl's primer on planking, on page three he states the following: "By now you will realise that virtually all the planking will need to be cut to shape, as you cannot edge set a plank.".
It would seem to me that based on the method he describes it would be beneficial to spile every plank on the hull...is this correct? On the previous page he describes how to create a stealer plank, shouldn't that be unnecessary if you are spiling? Are there instances of planks common to the every model that do not require spiling?
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Cabbie got a reaction from Seventynet in HMB Endeavour 1768 by Cabbie - Artesania Latina - 1:60 - Kit Fiddle
About time for me a little update.
It has taken over a week to shape and glue 2 planks,
after making one pair and not using them. Then making another pair and gluing them on,
and later removing them, after the third try i think I am close
but it is important to start the right way .
And another, this is how far up they go.
Looks a bit rugged but it will clean up.
Now to work out how to plank the bow.
How much spiling?
If i follow on from this plank and do a little bit
of tapering and spiling I can fit in about 14 planks up the bow post
and do it similar to the replica.
Or i can do spile more, and fit more planks into the bow post.
One thing that I have been thinking about is,
how much spiling used to be done on ships?,
and how wide a plank would have been originally used to spile a plank?
To fit in more planks I would need to spile from a plank that would be 15 to 20mms
wide, or 900mm to 1200mm wide full size.
Would that have been done?
I am inclined to go with the first option and do it similar to the replica, which I like.
Now off to fit a few more garboard planks.
Cheers Chris
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Cabbie got a reaction from DaveRow in HMB Endeavour 1768 by Cabbie - Artesania Latina - 1:60 - Kit Fiddle
About time for me a little update.
It has taken over a week to shape and glue 2 planks,
after making one pair and not using them. Then making another pair and gluing them on,
and later removing them, after the third try i think I am close
but it is important to start the right way .
And another, this is how far up they go.
Looks a bit rugged but it will clean up.
Now to work out how to plank the bow.
How much spiling?
If i follow on from this plank and do a little bit
of tapering and spiling I can fit in about 14 planks up the bow post
and do it similar to the replica.
Or i can do spile more, and fit more planks into the bow post.
One thing that I have been thinking about is,
how much spiling used to be done on ships?,
and how wide a plank would have been originally used to spile a plank?
To fit in more planks I would need to spile from a plank that would be 15 to 20mms
wide, or 900mm to 1200mm wide full size.
Would that have been done?
I am inclined to go with the first option and do it similar to the replica, which I like.
Now off to fit a few more garboard planks.
Cheers Chris
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Cabbie reacted to Captain Slog in HMB Endeavour 1768 by Cabbie - Artesania Latina - 1:60 - Kit Fiddle
Hi Chris,
Just catching up on some logs.
Your planking is coming along. I hated doing the second layer on mine.
With regards to planks, can't really help on actual widths but I remember reading somewhere that they never cut them more than half the width. Includes deck planks also..but I may be wrong.
Cheers
Slog
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Cabbie got a reaction from dgbot in HMB Endeavour 1768 by Cabbie - Artesania Latina - 1:60 - Kit Fiddle
About time for me a little update.
It has taken over a week to shape and glue 2 planks,
after making one pair and not using them. Then making another pair and gluing them on,
and later removing them, after the third try i think I am close
but it is important to start the right way .
And another, this is how far up they go.
Looks a bit rugged but it will clean up.
Now to work out how to plank the bow.
How much spiling?
If i follow on from this plank and do a little bit
of tapering and spiling I can fit in about 14 planks up the bow post
and do it similar to the replica.
Or i can do spile more, and fit more planks into the bow post.
One thing that I have been thinking about is,
how much spiling used to be done on ships?,
and how wide a plank would have been originally used to spile a plank?
To fit in more planks I would need to spile from a plank that would be 15 to 20mms
wide, or 900mm to 1200mm wide full size.
Would that have been done?
I am inclined to go with the first option and do it similar to the replica, which I like.
Now off to fit a few more garboard planks.
Cheers Chris
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Cabbie got a reaction from Seventynet in HMB Endeavour 1768 by Cabbie - Artesania Latina - 1:60 - Kit Fiddle
Good Evening to all
A little update to report, Wales have been completed on both sides.
They have not been sanded properly, so hopefully they will
tidy up a bit with the sanding done.
I am going to add a single line of Jarrah planks above the wales to
simulate the plain plank on the replica.
This is to separate the wales from the upper planks,
that will be done with the Kauri planks.
Below the wales will be Jarrah planks.
And now off to finish working out the planking below wales
which is what is going to happen next.
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Cabbie got a reaction from Captain Slog in HMB Endeavour 1768 by Cabbie - Artesania Latina - 1:60 - Kit Fiddle
Hi Hof00, thanks for looking in.
I'm going to do it in my usual back to front style and put them on after,
i think that it will be easier to hold the planks, flat whilst glueing, and easier to sand.
Anyway a few more pics to update.
I have placed some planks to see how they lay on the hull.
And surprise,surprise, they crossover at the bow.
The stern was fairly straight forward, I am going to drop 2 planks
under the wales, so that there is not much tapering to do.
I have drawn up how they will look, but
it will need refining a bit when i start planking
And i have been making the wales to look like the replica.
They are close i think, but my notches?? that make the hooks
are to big to be scale correct.
Terminology is going to do my brain in.
I have been looking at the other logs that are rigging and get lost when
they explain what they have been doing.(all beautiful work,
just as well photos are provided)
I am going to have to put some time in to learning this new language.
Now off to start glueing on the wales, and then do the planks below.
Cheers Chris
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Cabbie got a reaction from Captain Slog in HMB Endeavour 1768 by Cabbie - Artesania Latina - 1:60 - Kit Fiddle
Good Afternoon all
First planking fully done, a week off work helps.
Bit I am not happy about gaps in what is supposed to be single planking
at the bow. you can see through the planks.
Sanding has been done , but it needs a few spots of filler, went through the planks
on the bow. Just as well there is filler blocks underneath.
I think that I will do a second layer above the wales as well, wont be happy
if I leave, as is.
A few questions
Do i add the keel, stem, stern post now? I am inclined to leave till after the 2nd planks.
What about the various air holes and openings ect? Cut them in later?
Anything else I should be doing?
Thanks for looking in.
Now off to mark out the wales and planking
Cheers Chris
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Cabbie got a reaction from Captain Slog in HMB Endeavour 1768 by Cabbie - Artesania Latina - 1:60 - Kit Fiddle
Hello Mark thanks for looking in and commenting.
I'm like a kid in a toy shop i can't wait to see what something looks like when I do it.
So the poly goes on, its only one coat and can be sanded back when i need to glue something.
"Hmm.. since this is first planking, see how it goes and apply what you find to second layer."
Yes that's the idea, try things and see how it turns out.
One thing that i have been pondering is, the stern planking on the replica.
It appears to me that there are no steelers used and I have been wondering how they got past
bulkheads 13 and 14, where the planks would need tapering and steelers adding.
I now think they did it by dropping planks under the wales, as at the bow.
And that allowed for an even run of planks to run through to the stern.
As in this photo https://www.flickr.com/photos/endeavourvoyages/9020703145/in/album-72157634081735926/
I suppose if I asked the question someone would have told me, but I enjoy nutting it out. Hopefully it
will make me remember more, how to do planking.
Anyway this effort on the first planking has been well and truly worth it. When it come to the 2nd planks
hopefully I will have it worked out.
Thanks to others as well for likes and comments.
Cheers Chris
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Cabbie got a reaction from Captain Slog in HMB Endeavour 1768 by Cabbie - Artesania Latina - 1:60 - Kit Fiddle
Good afternoon all
Time for a bit of an update myself.
I have been plodding along with planking above the wales, which still needs to be sanded properly
And doing the 1st planks below, which i am trying to do in a proper manner in order
to get a good idea of what will happen with the 2nd planks.
Yes i know that I am a messy planker,
perhaps time will help with that.
Cheers Chris
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Cabbie got a reaction from Captain Slog in HMB Endeavour 1768 by Cabbie - Artesania Latina - 1:60 - Kit Fiddle
Good Evening all
A little bit more progress, I decided that if I was going to do the first planking in a proper manner,
I should have the correct place for it to finish. So I decided to go to the the top and and start planking
down, which is only going to be single planking.
Which i gave a quick sand and coat of poly to see what it was looking like,
and it is coming up pretty good. This time I have applied the wax pastel to
both edges of the planks and it stands out a bit more.
Planking down at the keel caught me by surprise, I should have started
thinking about steelers a bit sooner, now i need to add 2 together.
Now to think about the various port frames and doors. My first big problem.
Do I use the supplied metal ones, which to my inexperienced eye don't look to bad.
I would struggle to make and hinge wooden ones especially the small ones.
They measure 8mm X 8mm
Can someone tell me what this port under the transom is doing. I hadn't seen it until looking at these photos
https://www.flickr.com/photos/endeavourvoyages/9022930796/in/album-72157634081735926/
Have a look at her when she is finished, looks nice and new again.
Also I need to work out channel positions, which I hope to do by looking at photos
Time to go off and look and see what others did.
Thanks for looking Cheers Chris
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Cabbie got a reaction from Captain Slog in HMB Endeavour 1768 by Cabbie - Artesania Latina - 1:60 - Kit Fiddle
Ok Haven't got too far and the first pot hole has been hit.
The garboard plank is laying way too flat, needs to be much more upright. So I have decided to take them off
and add a little filler block, and reshape.
I think that there was a upturn in the filler block, but i took it off because i couldn't see what it was doing.
When I drew in a roughy of the planking it had that big round curve in it.
That is something I do not want
I might take out some of the filler inside the black line,
but will do the other bit first and see what it looks like.
Hooroo Chris
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Cabbie got a reaction from Captain Slog in HMB Endeavour 1768 by Cabbie - Artesania Latina - 1:60 - Kit Fiddle
Thanks Don For the like and commenting
I think that I have got it the right way,
Perhaps a different view would help
Would anyone else like to comment
Thanks Chris
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Cabbie got a reaction from Captain Slog in HMB Endeavour 1768 by Cabbie - Artesania Latina - 1:60 - Kit Fiddle
Help needed please
I am just starting to sort out the first planking below the wales, which I am
hoping to spile? and do as well as I can. Does the garbord plank, and the cardboard template look to be right?
Or do i have the curve too sharp?
All comments welcome
Thanks Chris
Or am I going about it the wrong way?
Also what would be the normal width plank that would have
been used to cut a curved one from.
Thanks Again
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Cabbie got a reaction from Bobstrake in Swift 1805 by jimcsys - Artesania Latina - Scale 1:50 - first wooden ship build
Joe
That's a blow i was hoping you would have the hinges worked out for us.
Your work on the rudder hinges looks very neat.
I will keep looking in Thanks Chris
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Cabbie reacted to donrobinson in HMB Endeavour 1768 by Cabbie - Artesania Latina - 1:60 - Kit Fiddle
Hey Chris, yup I'm still around and watching. You are doing great and I'm enjoying following along. Looking forward to seeing the Jarrah, I have never heard of it before so I am a little curious to see it on your boat.
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