dafi

Always very enjoyable to catch up with this wonderful build!

Well done, Daniel

Thank you Jan! But this only was a deadly-horned-ridge-back-bug, 30 cm diameter. I thought it would eat me!
 
Who ever looked at the right hand corner of the ladybird pictures saw already my new ventures :-)
 
Right, it was time fore shake-rattle-and-roll!
 
To add a new shade to the old black-and white discussion, I would like to widen up the discussion. Classically the two colors for the british ships is a neutral pitch-black for the standing rigging or natural hemp for the running parts. As stockholm tar has a more brownish color, I already added a brown touch to my shrouds.
 
The contemporary literature mentions the ratlines as "tarred". Also the hammock netting and the cover over it is mentioned to be tarred. But does it mean that it was black? We had some interesting discussions in our german forum segelschiffsmodellbau.com with the remark, that it was also used to impregnate cloth to wear :-0
 
So I opted for a shade that is darker than the natural hemp but much lighter than the dark shrouds. So I mixed the two of them.
 

 
The thickness was already tested out quite a while ago and I found a thickness suitable for both looks and handling.
 
So I took my tart section and placed a template behind the shrouds - have a look at the shortened hair clips - my girly is gonna kill me ;-)
 

 
The template proved to be to thick in the lines, couldn´t see my lines properly ...
 

 
... so replaced it with a newer version where a filmsy line in an apart softgreen trhat proved to be more suitable. Also I used the hint not to rattle up (or better saying down) in one go, but to always half the distances to avoid the curving in of the outer shrouds. 
 
So it got slowly more and more full ...
 

 
... the backstays I did bend out of the way, there are rumors of modelers rattling them in also ...
 

 
The lower lines were tough, had to find a logical way to work my way through, remembering in which row they were done on the original. As the ratlines were the last items, so they had to go over everything.
But even this mess I managed to clear considerably :-)
 
And then comes the point of taking out the guiding template.
 

 
Still had to clear the half hitches of the outer shrouds and arrange the sagging ...
 

 

 
... and up they can go :-)
 
XXXDAn

Thanks for the support and the likes...
 
Minor milestone... took the big pieces of wood and made about 850 small pieces of wood.  Oh... and sawdust. 
 
I've closed the sawpits for now and the pieces have been sent to the yard for gluing up into frame blanks and then cutting into frames.
 
Here's pics... and for those who wanted it.. a picture of (naturally) the sawdust from cutting the pieces.
 

 
Hopefully, I didn't mis-count but I still have some "big" pieces left just in case.
 

 
Now where did I stash that really large bottle of glue??
 

Let's see if I got this right... first we make lots of little pieces of wood from big pieces, then we make big pieces of wood from the little pieces so we can cut and shape and make little pieces of wood from those big pieces.   er.. right?          Ok..  I think I got it.    I finished making all the bigger pieces of wood from the small pieces.   All 60 frame blanks are ready to go.  
 
Now to start cutting the frames from them. 
 

Just a light update... been working on frames.  Have several cut and test fitted and all reference points marked.
 
The pics below show how I'm solving the issues that plagued me on Version 1.0.   
 
Since all measurements are referenced to the build board, I've added a tab to each frame to securely locate that point (green arrow). After I cut in that part of the frame, I fit it and re-measure, re-refrence the other points. 
 
One set of points is where the deck clamps need to be so the red arrows show those.  1/8" deck beam, a 1/8" clamp and 1/16" inch plank will put the deck height were it needs to be.  This particular frame is #1 and thus, there's three decks.. lower, gun, and forecastle.
 
The blue arrows reference the outside dimensions of the gun port cutout for the sill to sit properly.  I'm using a 1/8" sill and when they're fitted I'll finesse them to be exact.
 
The black arrows point to the line for the wales.  These are small cuts into the frame and filled with colored glue to hightlight  They only demarcate the transition line from wale to planking and vice versa.
 
The black arrow with the white fill is the cutline for when this beast is finally cut from the build board.  A top rail will sit on top of this line.
 
I'm going slow and careful to avoid dong wrong what I did the last time.
 

Update time...
 
I needed a break from cutting out frames having done about half of them so far.    So.... installed the first three frames,  added spacers for strength and position, and cut the bridle port.   The keel is just set into position as are the upper and lower sills for the port to help in squaring everything up.
 
The bridle port is build up on the frame sides and the upper and lower sills rest on the "build up" with the middle frame being cut out for the port.  Thankfully, it's the only one like this.  The rest are cut into the frames.   There's a conumdrum on the plans.  The cut-away with the ports outlined is more "square" where as the framing plan shows the fore end of this port higher on the hull.  I went with the framing plan.  I hope I picked correctly.

Thanks for that Adam and B.E.   Well, I hope I don't disappoint anyone and more importantly, myself..  
 
Twelve frames cut, fitted to build board (but not glued).  Reference points marked and will be re-checked after they are glued in.  One of the references is totally off as I cut it at the gunport mark and not the wale mark... argghhh.. 
 

 
 
Plan of attack on this is evolving... due to new items I've discovered.  I do want all the full frames cut and fitted before doing the rest of this.
 
1) Fit frames to keel.  Keel needs to be modified such that the area above the rabbet needs to be 5/32" instead of full width of 3/16".  I'm holding off on this as long as I can as I'm thinking I need to change the angle of the rabbet anyway.
 
2) Re-recheck reference marks and cut gunports into frames. 
 
3) Glue to build board.
 
4) Add spacers and keel.
 
5) Fair, sand, sand, sand.... and sand somemore both inside and out.
 
Then in some semblance of order, fit the sills, half-frames, hawse frames and punt.  I'm still picking apart details from La Venus such as frigates had herringbone pattern decking in the great cabin...  oy... And I'm sorting out how to remove the quarterdeck and forecastle deck clamp reference tabs for easier planking. 
 
 
 

Minor milestone... Half of the 42 full frames have been installed.  Spacers have been glued into place and gunports are rought cut.  Final position with sills will be done after the first pass at fairing before the half frames are installed.   I'm finding minor tolerance build up issues but nothing that's a show stopper.  Anyway, here's piccy's....
 

Thank you Jan! But this only was a deadly-horned-ridge-back-bug, 30 cm diameter. I thought it would eat me!
 
Who ever looked at the right hand corner of the ladybird pictures saw already my new ventures :-)
 
Right, it was time fore shake-rattle-and-roll!
 
To add a new shade to the old black-and white discussion, I would like to widen up the discussion. Classically the two colors for the british ships is a neutral pitch-black for the standing rigging or natural hemp for the running parts. As stockholm tar has a more brownish color, I already added a brown touch to my shrouds.
 
The contemporary literature mentions the ratlines as "tarred". Also the hammock netting and the cover over it is mentioned to be tarred. But does it mean that it was black? We had some interesting discussions in our german forum segelschiffsmodellbau.com with the remark, that it was also used to impregnate cloth to wear :-0
 
So I opted for a shade that is darker than the natural hemp but much lighter than the dark shrouds. So I mixed the two of them.
 

 
The thickness was already tested out quite a while ago and I found a thickness suitable for both looks and handling.
 
So I took my tart section and placed a template behind the shrouds - have a look at the shortened hair clips - my girly is gonna kill me ;-)
 

 
The template proved to be to thick in the lines, couldn´t see my lines properly ...
 

 
... so replaced it with a newer version where a filmsy line in an apart softgreen trhat proved to be more suitable. Also I used the hint not to rattle up (or better saying down) in one go, but to always half the distances to avoid the curving in of the outer shrouds. 
 
So it got slowly more and more full ...
 

 
... the backstays I did bend out of the way, there are rumors of modelers rattling them in also ...
 

 
The lower lines were tough, had to find a logical way to work my way through, remembering in which row they were done on the original. As the ratlines were the last items, so they had to go over everything.
But even this mess I managed to clear considerably :-)
 
And then comes the point of taking out the guiding template.
 

 
Still had to clear the half hitches of the outer shrouds and arrange the sagging ...
 

 

 
... and up they can go :-)
 
XXXDAn

Did some ratlines this weekend.
Ratlines almost done by now, just the other side of the mizzen to do......

Jan

Not the best of pictures, but I'm still working on him....
 

Just received two shipyard inspections right now.
 
One itzy-pitzy-teeny-weeny little tiny red spot with 6 legs and two antennas that was racing all over the model in such an incredible speed, that I couldn´t shoot it. The second one I got some nice shots off :-)
 

 

 

 
Looks there were no complaints on the way the rigging was done as she (LADYbird) left without further remarks ...
 
XXDAn

Thank you Jan! But this only was a deadly-horned-ridge-back-bug, 30 cm diameter. I thought it would eat me!
 
Who ever looked at the right hand corner of the ladybird pictures saw already my new ventures :-)
 
Right, it was time fore shake-rattle-and-roll!
 
To add a new shade to the old black-and white discussion, I would like to widen up the discussion. Classically the two colors for the british ships is a neutral pitch-black for the standing rigging or natural hemp for the running parts. As stockholm tar has a more brownish color, I already added a brown touch to my shrouds.
 
The contemporary literature mentions the ratlines as "tarred". Also the hammock netting and the cover over it is mentioned to be tarred. But does it mean that it was black? We had some interesting discussions in our german forum segelschiffsmodellbau.com with the remark, that it was also used to impregnate cloth to wear :-0
 
So I opted for a shade that is darker than the natural hemp but much lighter than the dark shrouds. So I mixed the two of them.
 

 
The thickness was already tested out quite a while ago and I found a thickness suitable for both looks and handling.
 
So I took my tart section and placed a template behind the shrouds - have a look at the shortened hair clips - my girly is gonna kill me ;-)
 

 
The template proved to be to thick in the lines, couldn´t see my lines properly ...
 

 
... so replaced it with a newer version where a filmsy line in an apart softgreen trhat proved to be more suitable. Also I used the hint not to rattle up (or better saying down) in one go, but to always half the distances to avoid the curving in of the outer shrouds. 
 
So it got slowly more and more full ...
 

 
... the backstays I did bend out of the way, there are rumors of modelers rattling them in also ...
 

 
The lower lines were tough, had to find a logical way to work my way through, remembering in which row they were done on the original. As the ratlines were the last items, so they had to go over everything.
But even this mess I managed to clear considerably :-)
 
And then comes the point of taking out the guiding template.
 

 
Still had to clear the half hitches of the outer shrouds and arrange the sagging ...
 

 

 
... and up they can go :-)
 
XXXDAn

Super work on the "test-bed" Daniel.

Thank you Jan! But this only was a deadly-horned-ridge-back-bug, 30 cm diameter. I thought it would eat me!
 
Who ever looked at the right hand corner of the ladybird pictures saw already my new ventures :-)
 
Right, it was time fore shake-rattle-and-roll!
 
To add a new shade to the old black-and white discussion, I would like to widen up the discussion. Classically the two colors for the british ships is a neutral pitch-black for the standing rigging or natural hemp for the running parts. As stockholm tar has a more brownish color, I already added a brown touch to my shrouds.
 
The contemporary literature mentions the ratlines as "tarred". Also the hammock netting and the cover over it is mentioned to be tarred. But does it mean that it was black? We had some interesting discussions in our german forum segelschiffsmodellbau.com with the remark, that it was also used to impregnate cloth to wear :-0
 
So I opted for a shade that is darker than the natural hemp but much lighter than the dark shrouds. So I mixed the two of them.
 

 
The thickness was already tested out quite a while ago and I found a thickness suitable for both looks and handling.
 
So I took my tart section and placed a template behind the shrouds - have a look at the shortened hair clips - my girly is gonna kill me ;-)
 

 
The template proved to be to thick in the lines, couldn´t see my lines properly ...
 

 
... so replaced it with a newer version where a filmsy line in an apart softgreen trhat proved to be more suitable. Also I used the hint not to rattle up (or better saying down) in one go, but to always half the distances to avoid the curving in of the outer shrouds. 
 
So it got slowly more and more full ...
 

 
... the backstays I did bend out of the way, there are rumors of modelers rattling them in also ...
 

 
The lower lines were tough, had to find a logical way to work my way through, remembering in which row they were done on the original. As the ratlines were the last items, so they had to go over everything.
But even this mess I managed to clear considerably :-)
 
And then comes the point of taking out the guiding template.
 

 
Still had to clear the half hitches of the outer shrouds and arrange the sagging ...
 

 

 
... and up they can go :-)
 
XXXDAn

It gives a nice idea on the sizxe of the model, and the increadible detail.
Fully rigged hooks the size of a ladybird...
 
Jan

Hello friends,
thanks to all for the kind comments and Likes.
 
Remco
Gratings "Nails" drilled with 0,3mm drill,
holes filled with dark wax.
 
Regards Karl  

Hello friends.
Thanks for the kind comments and "Likes".
 
New photos of the construction  model Bonhomme Richard.
 
Regards Karl     
 
 
 
T e i l  4 8

So, the good news first ...
 
... all the lanyards replaced :-)
 
While doing this I felt a bit observed untill I remembered a long forgotten detail :-)
 

 
XXXDAn

Wonderfully done and shown, 
 
thank you!
 
Daniel

Just received two shipyard inspections right now.
 
One itzy-pitzy-teeny-weeny little tiny red spot with 6 legs and two antennas that was racing all over the model in such an incredible speed, that I couldn´t shoot it. The second one I got some nice shots off :-)
 

 

 

 
Looks there were no complaints on the way the rigging was done as she (LADYbird) left without further remarks ...
 
XXDAn

Just received two shipyard inspections right now.
 
One itzy-pitzy-teeny-weeny little tiny red spot with 6 legs and two antennas that was racing all over the model in such an incredible speed, that I couldn´t shoot it. The second one I got some nice shots off :-)
 

 

 

 
Looks there were no complaints on the way the rigging was done as she (LADYbird) left without further remarks ...
 
XXDAn

Thanks Augie, Mark, Bob, Sherry and Mike, and once again to all the "likes".
 
Even though it has been a long weekend here this weekend, I'm afraid I didn't get too much time in the shipyard.  I did however, get to collect my new case for Victory.  Even though I haven't quite finished her, I wanted to get her under a cover to protect her from damage and keep the dust off while I finish off the last few bits and pieces.
 
I know I could probably have made a case for a fraction of the price I paid for this (which was a lot!), but I wanted a "frameless" look for this model, so had it professionally made by a local plastics firm (Plastic Creations in Fyshwick for the local Canberrans - highly recommended).  I also decided that rather than use a wood base, I would continue the theme and had a black perspex base made at the same time, with a channel routed in it to accept the "box".  The idea of the black base (which is also partially reflective) was to tie in the black and yellow colours of the ship.  I like the effect.
 
I took a few pictures of it this afternoon, but it was getting a bit dark.  I've shown a couple of pictures here, but they don't really do it justice.
 
Here's one with only what's left of the daylight:
 

 
And here is one with the overhead downlights on. 
 

 
The table that it sits on I originally made to display my Cutty Sark model.  I think the timber is Yellow Stringy Bark if memory serves me correctly.
 
While I had the camera out, I thought I may as well take a picture of the Cutty Sark that has sat proudly in this position (just inside the front door) for many years until usurped by Victory.  This was a Billings kit and was my first serious foray into wooden ship building. As such, it is fairly basic - if only I knew then what I know now!  The case that this one is in I made myself. It has survived four house moves, including from one side of the country to the other and back again.  The only damage it received was to the rigging on one move, which I then replaced and did a better job on.  Even so, when I look at that rigging compared to Victory, it seems ever so basic.  It is now in the lounge room as a "temporary" measure until we figure out what to do with it. A "Viking Funeral" is still on the cards..........
 

 
You can see in the reflection of this photo my wife's collection of stuffed animals - they at least are an appreciative audience!
 
Ship's Boats continued:
 
With the limited time I did manage in the shipyard this weekend, I did manage to paint the internal hull of the Pinnace, fit the Risers for the thwarts, and fit the previously made footling.
 

 

 
I'm now making up some gratings to fit, using 1/32" pear stock that Jeff Hayes at Hobbymill made up for me some time ago.  It's the same stuff that I used on the Launch.  Hopefully I'll get that installed next weekend and then be ready to paint the exterior of the hull before moving on to the fittings.
 
 

Thank you very much Sjors, Mobbsie, Bob, Augie, Lawrence, Leanne and Jim for your kind remarks, and also to all of the "likes".  A little more progress to report:
 
Ship's Boats continued:
 
Among bits and pieces for the Pinnace, I have cut out the frames for the two Cutters.  Here is one set:
 

 
Meanwhile, back at the Pinnace, the next job was to install the Keelson and Gunwales.  I used 1/32" x 3/64" boxwood strips for each of these, bending the gunwales using my usual water and steam iron method:
 

 
Then it was time to install the stringers for the footwaling. I used leftover bits of 1/64" x 1/16" Holly planking stock for these.
 

 
The footwaling itself is made up of the same material.  After darkening one edge with a pencil, I edge glued 9 planks together:
 

 
After a bit of fiddling getting a paper pattern to fit, I transferred this to my pre-prepared footwaling stock and carefully shaped it using the Byrnes disc sander.  This was a somewhat delicate operation, noting that the stock is only 1/64" thick.  The notches were then marked and cut with the trusty Exacto knife:
 

 
This was then set aside to be fitted a little later on.  The interior of the boat was then given a light coat of white Gesso. This is to help with the painting - it is sort of an undercoat and will ensure the paint grips over some of the excess glue that could not be removed.
 
The next job was to make the cap rails.  I used 1/64" thick Boxwood sheet stock for these.  A paper pattern was made to provide the approximate shape and the cap rails then cut out.  When I say "cut", it was more a case of sanding than cutting.  I used a combination of Byrnes disc sander, Oscillating spindle sander, and hand held rotary tool to achieve the aim.  I deliberately cut these over-size so that they could be shaped in situ.  In this next photo, you can see the white Gesso applied to the interior, as well as the oversize cap rails tack glued in place.  The port cap rail has received some partial shaping in this shot:
 

 
This shot shows again partial shaping of the cap rails, but also gives a good sense of the long, narrow, sleek form of this particular boat:
 

 
And finally, here are the cap rails in their final shape.  By tack gluing them in place, I was able to sand them to a very good fit. I used a combination of sanding sticks and rotary tool with stone polishing attachment to achieve this.  I'm quite happy with the way these have come out - they are flush with the gunwale on the interior, and have just a tiny overhang on the exterior.
 

 
Once I was happy with the shape of these, I had a rather nerve-wracking time with some Isopropyl Alchohol and an Exacto blade to unattach them again.  Once again, they will be finally fitted at a little later stage, but needed to be made now.
 
The interior of the boat has now been given it's first coat of yellow ochre paint, while the cap rails have been painted black.  The next job (once the painting is completed) will be to fit the footwaling and then the risers for the thwarts.
 
In between waiting for paint to dry etc, I will start assembling the framing for the two Cutters.

Thank you Lawrence, Ben, Mark and Jesse, and also to all of the "likes".
 
Minor update this weekend - not a lot of time in the shipyard after another week away.  Did manage to find time to host a visit from fellow Canberra modeller Leanne (Moo) - always nice to make personal contact with other members of this great community!
 
Ship's Boats continued:
 
I applied some filler to the Pinnace hull, using a product recommended in my Warrior practicum - Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty (that's a 4 pound (1.8 kg) can in the photo:
 

 
It comes in powered form which you then mix with water to a consistency of softened butter or 'soft cooked cereal'.  It is then applied using a small stiff flat brush, left to harden for a couple of hours and then sanded off.  It claims to never shrink.  Clean up was easy (using only water).  Sanding was also pretty easy, and the putty sands off in a dust form, similar in consistency to talcum powder.  This product is not readily available in Australia, so as usual I let my fingers do the walking and found some on-line.  The postage cost more than the product, but all in all not expensive.  Having used it, I can say that I like it - and I now have a "lifetime supply".  It is much easier to use than regular wood filler, especially on the extremely fragile boat.  I suspect similar results could be obtained with Spakfilla (for the Aussies reading this).
 
I then released the boat from the build board.  I was a little too enthusiastic with this and damaged a few frames in the process.  Managed to repair them all without too much fuss.  Still a bit of cleaning up do do, but here is how she looks now:
 

 

 
And just as a reminder of the scale of this little one:
 

 
I've also finished the first part of cutting out the frames for the two Cutters, so should have them in the build boards next weekend, as well as progressing with the Pinnace.