dafi

In the "Ordnance Instructions for the United States Navy 1866", http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/19058
you'll find the recipes and painting instructions on pp. 83-89.
You will need a huge cauldron for boiling the 66 lbs of linseed oil for the 24 hours required.  
 
Per

Hello Daniel,
 
Thanks. Found the article.
 

 
Learn something new every day. I didn't know that iron Jacob's ladders were used in hatchways.
I thought these ladders were only used for climbing up. Like the picture below.
But these are not made of iron.
 

 
 
I guess you have to wait for a better answer, sorry.
 
Anja

Good afternoon misters
I am sorry for my English пешу through the translator
I want to give you on court furniture for the big cabin
While only a table and chairs маштаб 1:48 and прцесс manufacturing
Material chairs самшыт
I will accept any criticism
Anatoly

As always, if curious, have to try out ...
 
... easy to see, it is getting tight. One place has to stay free because of the hanging knee.

        Still missing some jugs and a handful of barrels and the duffels in the corners.   There were about 800 seamen living, eating and sleeping on the area of the decks, means 400 each deck. As the aft was reserved for ranks so the remaining area was about 12 guns long each side. This makes a count of 400 / 12 / 2 and gives about 17 people each mess. So I understand the shift system with the watches, as there is maximum space for 11 or 13 people on the table. All those 17 people´s belonging had most possibly also to be stored in that confined space ...  
... just some thoughts ...
 
DAniel

... these ones?!?
 

 
...hihihihihi....
 
Thank you Sirs, but cleared for action is the most boring one in my opinion - just guns and their equipment, everything else stripped ...
 
...boooooring ;-)
 
Daniel

Here we went on in the lower deck, getting tighter ...
 
...first table dummies ...
 

 
... followed by some real model making ...
 

 
... first sitting trials ...
 

 
... and tight we go.
 

 

 

 
bom apetite! 
 
XXXDAn

I retook the entry ports and reworked the steps:
 

 
The crew went happy as they got redefined toilet seats :-) No one to fall through the too big holes any more ;-)
 

 
The beakhaed grating got its supporting structure following the frames plan and the small slides are implemented to save the gammoning from the sailors shi..... ;-)
 

 
The stem got the splitlines of the single parts that it was composed from. Impossible with the once horizontal woodstructure ;-)
 

 
And the entry ports got some facimilie paneling painting
 

 
 
And finally I was able to redo the painting. Hallelulja!
 

 

 

 
And finally the overview that looks on the first look so much like 6 month ago!
 

Another reason of the action was that I was already thinking of reworking the gunport rigols. I now was free to find a new solution for this: first tests proved the right direction and the risk of sanding them without having a solution yet was luckily justified: On the left the original one.  
 
The mass production was fiddled out:  

 
Sanding down a ABS L-formed stripe from 2 on 2 mm (possibly Evergreen 292 2mmx2mmx0,4mm) onto 1 on 1 mm (picture at 4 o´clock) using a 0,5 mm styrene laid on the inside as gauge, pressing them in a template (picture at 8 o´clock), putting right length (picture at 10 o´clock) and sorting them (picture at 2 o´clock)   the ones for the upper decks were cut in the middle and then bent upwards with pointed tweezers into the right shape and glued onto the hull two parts.  
Here the real tings on the living object:  
 
 
 
As you can also see, the inside of the gunports were lined with 0,5 mm sheet ABS to give crisp forms.  
 
PS: McKay speaks of "Wriggles", usually I know them as rigols: who is right or what is the more common english expression?  

Here we went on in the lower deck, getting tighter ...
 
...first table dummies ...
 

 
... followed by some real model making ...
 

 
... first sitting trials ...
 

 
... and tight we go.
 

 

 

 
bom apetite! 
 
XXXDAn

Here we went on in the lower deck, getting tighter ...
 
...first table dummies ...
 

 
... followed by some real model making ...
 

 
... first sitting trials ...
 

 
... and tight we go.
 

 

 

 
bom apetite! 
 
XXXDAn

Typo Correction! The Chesapeake's chase gun was called "United Tars" not "United Tarts"! 

According to"Surgeon of the Seas" by Jonathan M. Foltz, published 1931, at the attack at Quallah Batoo:
 
"Jan. 20th, [1832]. This afternoon the troops to land on Sumatra were exercised in order of the landing - the rear formed by the 'flying artillery', with 'Betsy Baker', the six pounder carronade. The twelve pounder in the launch, commanded by Mr. Gordon, is 'The Bonnets So Blue', and the six pounder in the cutter is 'Polly Hopkins'."
 
William James's "Naval Occurrances Between Great Britain and America", 1816, names all of Chesapeake's guns, including her carronades:
 
'The Chesapeake's guns all had names, engraven on small squares of copper-plate. To give some idea of American tastes on these matters, here follows the names of her guns upon one broadside: - Main Deck: "Brother Jonathan, True Blue, Yankee Protection, Putnam, Raging Eagle, Viper, General Warren,  Mad Anthony, America, Washington, Liberty Fore Ever, Dreadnaught, Defiance, Liberty or Death." Fore Castle: - "United Tarts" the shifting 18-pounder, "Jumping Billy, Rattler", carronades. Quarter Deck:  "Bull-dog, Spitfire, Nancy Dawson, Revenge, Bunker's Hill, Pocohantas, Towser, Wilful Murder", carronades; Total 25.'
 
The USS United States even had two all English gun crews, during her fight with HMS Macedonian, who actually named their yankee batteries "Nelson" and "HMS Victory"!

Folks
 
Here is another quick exercise I undertook... The Stern Bumpkins.
 
Many representations of the great ship show the presence of Stern Bumpkins (or Main Brace Spreaders, or Main Brace Bumpkins, etc.).  We see an example on the "Loring" model that is currently undergoing restoration at the USS Constitution Museum:
 

 
Marquardt includes them in his reconstruction and Olof Eriksen shows them as well in his 1815 version.  I went ahead and dabbled a bit with a quick mockup just to get a sense of what might be involved if I go down the same path:
 


 
It may be that my version is slightly undersized - hard to tell.  I used some spare .080 x .080" strip and some scraps of PE brass.  If I do include these I might try .100 x .100" and drill through the bulwark to extend into the hull for more rigidity.
 
However, I am hesitant to go this route.  I think it is very likely that these were present through most of the War of 1812, but I can't see any evidence that they were fitted during her battle with Guerriere.  
 

 
The Hull model clearly does not show these and neither do the Michele Felice Cornè, Thomas Birch, or George Ropes Jr. paintings.  For now, I think I'll hold off.
 
EG

I'll have to re-read the book, but I remember reading in the "Billy Ruffian" that the crew named the guns.  It's not hard to believe as military men have named their equipment for seemingly forever. 

In addition, when the Frigate American Potomac attacked the Sumatran Pirate stronghold at Kuala Batoo in 1829, all three 12-pounder boat Carronades landed with the marines had names, according to her surgeon's memoirs. I remember one was called "Polly Hopkins". I'll check on that too.

It's true!
 
In William James's 'Naval History of Great Briton' (or possibly his earlier work 'Naval Occurances ...') , the author lists all the names applied to the 28 main deck guns of the captured USS Chesapeake in 1813. Each gun and its opposite shared a name selected by its crew. One was "Willfull Murder" was one. "John Bull" was another. Her Carronade names were not recorded, although they surely had them. The Constitution's and United States's crews were known to have done the same, although only a couple names have survived. Chase guns in general were named "Long Tom". I'll look them up tonight and re-post.
 
By the way, during the war of 1812, the  American Frigate President flew a huge motto flag from her main truck every time she cleared for battle:
 
"Here is the Haughty President! How do you like her?"

I think it is a movie maker fiction. As late as 1841, 33% of all Englishmen signed their names as "X", they simply could not write even their own names.
The situation was not much different in the rest of Europe. And that is the percentage for the entire male population, including nobility, clergy and business classes. The illiteracy percentage on the lower deck of a man o'war would have been much greater.
 
Per

Hi all,
 
A small update to provide Augie his fix and some pictures to keep "you know who" happy.
 
I completed the framing of the launch today.  The technique of soaking two strips, laminating them and clamping around the formers seems to have worked very well and was quite quick once I got into a rhythm.  For those with a tighter bend I employed some heat from an old electric plank bender:
 

 
Funny, I must have had this thing for 20 years and never got on with it for general planking (I prefer to use a steam iron generally), but for this job it was exactly the right tool. 
 
Here's a view of all the whole frames completed:
 

 
And then the addition of the four cant frames per side in the bows:
 

 
Here's a view from the other side.  Here you can clearly see the apron.  I had to remove this earlier to fit the whole frames as it interfered with the plug.  However, I needed to reinstall it in order to install the cant frames.
 

 
Fairing these frames is a somewhat delicate matter as you can imagine.  Here is shot showing how I used the fingers of one hand to support the frames from the other side while fairing:
 

 
And this is the weapon of choice for fairing (and all other sanding on this little project to date).  It is a flexible sanding stick with a tapered end.  They are available in a number of grades, but this is the coarse shown here.  A very useful little tool.
 

 
Tomorrow, I will commence the exterior planking. 
 
 

Thanks everyone for looking in and for your kind words - there seems to be a bit of extra interest in this little side project
 
Sjors - yes, a complete scratch build project is on the books - just have to finish this one first!
 
Ben - yes, they are delicate but I am finding that the little building board provides good support and allows me to handle the whole thing without fear of damage. Plus, once the planking starts going on, it gains strength (or at least rigidity) very quickly.
 
Mark - you have much to look forward to! 
 
A small update then:
 
Commenced the planking today.  Followed Chuck's advice in his Longboat instructions by first of all attaching the sheer plank and one extra, then "lined off" the remainder of the hull.  I decided not to attach string, tape or temporary battens with the lining off - it's just too small!  Pencil marks will have to do as a guide.  Then it was on to the garboard strake, which seemed to take forever, and I'm still not convinced I got it right.    It will have to do though.  Have attached one more plank next to the garboard as shown in the pics below.
 
I'm using Holly for the planking at 1/64" x 1/16", which is about right for scale.  The Holly is beaut to work with - a short soak in tepid water and you can almost tie pretzels with it.   For the lower strakes (ie garboard and the next few), because they will be covered on the inside by the footboards and therefore won't be seen, I've coated the entire inside of the planks with PVA glue as they've been layed.  This will add a bit of extra strength to them.
 
The hardest part of the planking so far has been finding clamps small enough to fit around the frames, and light enough (pressure wise) not to destroy the whole thing.  For the most part, I've resorted to the Mk 1 finger clamp.  While it's fairly slow, the adjustable pressure of this clamp makes it worthwhile! 
 
Here's a few pics to keep "you know who" happy:
 

 

 

Finally managed to finish the outside of the hull, took some time and had a few issues but I think I can now continue with the inside.
 

 

 
The lid with only one thread needs attention at some point, the supplied part didnt have the hole to feed the thread through.

 

 

 

 
 

Loads of pictures...   Building the frame, I wanted to be able to take the finished deck away while  working on it.                             Not exactly the same but once painted i think it will be pretty good.          

An update:
 
I installed the checkered linoleum. In hindsight, I used the wrong material for this. I used thick photo paper and sprayed it with a couple of clear coats. It started raveling at the edges once glued into place... Fortunately, this will not be so visible once the quarterdeck is in place. I used the same material to do the quarterdeck, but that one went on like a glove. I keep the quarterdeck wrapped in plastic until ready to install to avoid raveled edges. 
 

 
I put in eight of the twenty-two guns. I'm not paying as much attention to the breeching lines as I will for the ten visible guns. The white spots on the stairs and the mast hole are the result of spraying it with Vallejo flat clear... Unlike their paints, the clears are rubbish! Never use them! I use Alclad2 Klear now, which comes in 4 types (flat, matt, semi-matt and slight sheen). This stuff is simply marvelous! No thinning required, just drop it in the airbrush and spray! (does smell horrible though, so mask and open windows is required!)
 
I decided not to put in the last four starboard and port guns, but make windows out of Evergreen instead. I think it came out nice. Only seven more to go!
 

 
For the fore patch I decided to mimick the deck pattern. The colour is impossible to get the same, but that does not matter. I tested it with the quarterdeck and beakhead in place and so little light comes through that is looks pretty much the same trough the gun ports. 
 

 
I made some progress on the bows as well, as you can see. Reading all about the horrible experience of fitting the grating, I decided to try a different approach and glue the grating to the bows before installing them again (as I mentioned, they had to come off because they were out of line). I used plastic putty and sanded it so it all seems to flow into each other. I like the result very much! This will mean doing the gammoning will be more challenging, but I'm sure it will work out. 
 
The knightheads fit nicely after sanding the slots open. I reshaped them a bit using liquid green stuff and some sanding paper and added three eyelets (not easy to see in the picture). 
 
This week I hope to finish the other 4 'none visible' guns and prepare the 10 visible ones. I hope to have the quarterdeck in place by the start of the summer... I have two weeks off the end of july and will use some of that time to do a big touch-up session on the hull, to finally get an even color on the bee lines (half of them haven't been treated with the sepia wash yet).

I was not completely happy with the result of the window I made out of styrene for my 1/100th plastic HMS Victory (Heller). Seeing so many people turn to designing custom parts in PE, I decided to try some upgrade designing myself. I wanted to give 3D printing a try for a long time now, and there's no time like the present!

First, I painted the windows provided in the kit black and glued them to a sheet of paper. As it turns out, the numbering on the starboard windows is reversed.



Then I made basic shapes in Photoshop:



I turned this into a 3D spruce containing the windows:


 
The windows came back from the 3D printers yesterday!



As you can see, the detail is good, but the material is rather coarse. May have to experiment with other materials. After a bit of sanding, it looks a lot better, but still a bit rough. In this case, it actually contributes to the illusion that it is wood.

I painted one red and made little windows using Micro Krystal Klear. Wonderfull stuff! It glued it in place and voilà (the bee line paint job still needs to be corrected in this area):



All in all i'm happy with the result, but 3D printing still has its limits for modelers. I will try some bigger items soon, such as the ships boats and mast tops, as I think those will be easier to sand and polish smooth.

I was not happy with the window I made, so decided to give 3D designing and printing a go. You can see the result in the picture below. You can read about the process here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2164-experiences-with-3d-printing-for-ship-models/?p=64211
 

Thank you gentlemen for your kind words!
 
@ Dafi: What do you mean by 'THE letters'?
 
 
I started up a production line to make 30 breeching ropes and 10 sets of side tackle for the upper gun deck guns. I made a jig to make sure that all of those have the same length.     I used 2mm Caldercraft blocks for the side tackle. The top one has two holes drilled in it using a Dremel on a drilling stand. I drilled holes in 20 blocks. This took a lot of patience and for each block successfully drilled, I had to throw 5 away because the small scale makes it very difficult to get the two holes in line. But the end result is worth the money and effort. I use 0.1mm Morope line for the side tackle.      For the breeching ropes, I use 0.6mm Morope line. A 3mm ring is attached to one side, and finished with 0.1mm Morope line. I slide two 2mm eyelets on the rope before adding the second ring. These will be attached to the gun carriage.      I make one side tackle and one breeching rope per day. This ensures my full concentration on each one. So far, 3 sets of side tackle (left and right) and 5 breeching ropes are finished.