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The fix is so good, I didn't know it needed fixing.  

Great fix. Had you not shown us the whoops, we never would have known it was damaged. Looks like you are back on track and moving along again!

Hoorray!!!!!!      as the three stooges once said  "lady,  once we get done,  you won't even know the joint!"   get the boys to do some cleaning........and your back on your merry way!  
great fix!    

Thanks Hennie and Ulises,
 
I know.....hurry is never good but I can get the drill goes slower and tomorrow ,I'm finished 
The fix is done and pictures will follow.
I also done the railing for the middle deck.
 
Sjors
 

Nope... not going to like that.   What Denis suggested for fixing.   Before drilling in "new" material if you decide to scratch build it, paint the wood with white glue and water (50/50 mix).  When it dries it hardens and strengthens the wood.   

I dare not put a like to that!!!   it appears that you may need to do some scratch build'in.   patch'in it back together may not be the way to go {is that a crack in the center?}    if you are able to get some 1/16 flat stock {1/32 would be better}........insure that it will flex to the curvature that you need to obtain.   I'm sure that you have some 1/16 square strip handy.    bend the square stock to the desired curvature..........cut the flat stock to the size you need for the wall.   what will help you here,  is that the deck is likely shaped to the curvature as well........glue the parts you've cut to it.   frame the wall from behind with the curved square stock {along the top edges}.   with the top edge {you can frame it in more if you like} framed in,  you should be able to drill the holes without splintering.   I usually begin with small drills and work my way up.........finishing it off with round sanding sticks.
 
I've been there before........I'm sure others have too.   perhaps others can share a remedy to this problem.   you can fix it my friend!  

Small update.
 
Because I'm waiting for Anja to finish the hammock netting I have done something to the SotS.
I don't know how you call it but between the decks there are fences and I have to drill holes in it , wide 12 mm......
At the top there should be a space left of 1,5 mm.
And you can guess wat happened.....
 
 
Sjors

Nice and clean. And nekkid ladies, bet that was a fun part of the build 

Hi Donn,
 
Welcome again 
 
To answer your question.
I think Caldecraft is a little bit better.
With DeAgostini ( parts work ) you've got bamboo as planking wood.
I change that right away with the planks from Caldecraft.
But the pictures with De Agostini are better then form Caldecraft and at the other hand.
The drawings ( 9 sheets with a drawing of everything ) is better from Caldecraft.
I think every manufacturer has his own good and not so good things in the kit.
I wish that there was a manufacturing that put all good things together.
My next build will maybe be something from OcCre.
I always love to have 2 builds at the same time.
You can change.
But with Occre there is a lof of metal parts like gun carriages and gun port lids.
When you don't like that you can change that for wooden things.
A great example of that is from Theo, he is building the Santissima Trinidad from OcCre.
Take a look at his build log ( you have to search for him ) and you will see what I mean.
Long story but I hope you understand what I mean.
 
Sjors
 
 
 

Nice work and a nice recovery from the problems, Sjors.   I think every kit has it's problems but each is different problems.   Come to think of it.. scratch building has it's problems.   No easy answers I'm afraid.

A little update.
 
I have make a few decorations and rudder and a lot of tiny stuff !
I need more time with the painting then other things.
So it goes really slowly !
DeAgostini has a lot of metal parts that should be painted.
Even the little figures but that's for later.
At this moment I am putting the wales on.
Not a easy task because I have to lie the ship on her side !
I know I have to look forwards but this is at book number 80 !
When you have a big drawing you can see it in advance.
But now ?
Sometimes I'm thinking.....go in the closet and stay there !
But nope, it has also a little charme.... ( don't know witch one but it looks so nice when i wrote it down )
Enough complaining and pictures !
 
Sjors
 

I tend to think perhaps the kit I would want does not exist. I'd love to build a kit of the S/Y Fritha, a Murray Peterson designed 57 foot hermaphrodite brig that is presently sailing the eastern seaboard of the United States. I have the plans, directly from the designer's son's office and my favourite scale 1:1 is where I hope to end up as a retirement project but in the meantime, I anticipate learning a lot from a kit. I've never scratch built so a kit would be nice. Otherwise.... how hard is it to build from scratch when you have all the original plans and access to the architect who owns them?
Thanks,
Daniel

The transom is put back on, to check the fit.

And faired.
 
The bottom of lintels L1, L2, and L4, L5 are shaped to fit the transom.

Here they are glued.

The instruction said to mark the positions of the sills by the template. However, I found this a bit difficult and inaccurate. As the transom will be later glue onto the lintels and sills, I think why not use the transom to mark the positons of the sills.

The lintels are faired, both inside and outside.

Lintels on.
It is said in the instruction that "each lintel should be perfectly level and flat". So I used an engineer's square to do so. Not sure if I interpreted it right. (at first I thought the lintels should be perpendicular to the stern frames)
Will be some hard work to fair the area before adding the sills.
 

Thank you Joe and Steve !
 
Moving on, the stern frames.
 

Hi Michael,
 
I believe I heard from Fred Hocker that Vasa strangely enough had clove hitches on the last shrouds as well, so I would call it a win on the 1) -decision..
:-)
 
Cheers,
Peter 

Small update but:
 What have I learned (for me) to begin work on foremast ratlines, after having to remove the first six rows of the main, and starting over? (newbie at this)
 
Shroud ratlines.
 
1) Space-correctly, tighten and pre-glue each first shroud ratline knot (I happen to be R. handed so started with fore to aft). This “pre-locks” correct vertical       spacing for all rows up as I go along.
 
I was thinking of actually correctly tying the first and last ratlines - per row-but way toooo much work. And over the top minutia that would visually disappear. (see pic 1)
 
2) Next just give a gentle pull to each succeeding clove hitch as I thread the row
 
3) Don’t glue completed clove hitches on each row as I go up to the next row.
 
4) Don’t worry about the very last knot (aft side shroud) that will be revisited.
 
===============================
 
5) After all rows have been laced then fine tune adjust (vertically) all knots up and down the shrouds to properly space all rows so that they horizontally blend with each other and the platform above.
 
            Took me several “visits” to think that the results were acceptable.
 
6) Now fine-tune (if needed) clutch hitch tensions on each row.
 
7) Double check that rows are still evenly spaced
 
8) Glue clove hitches with a very tiny dab of G-S Hypo Cement.
 
7) Re-adjust and glue that last left-over aft knot on each row from before (4).
 
8) Then tiny dab of Flat Clear as needed to make G-S Hypo Cement totally disappear.
 
9) Clove hitches should be just a bit “firmer” for next mast
 
============================
 
What have I learned for next build (though it will be a cross-section only mainmasts to worry about). Nice change of venue – looking forward to it.
 
Platform/top
 
Well, this was due to my inexperience in lack of understanding/knowledge of how, in the aggregate, the proper locations of the futtock plates and dead-eyes can lead to problems later with regard to mast, yards and shroud spacing.
 
Pics explain my dilemma. I will have to remove the forward deadeyes and re-fit them toward the stern. This will need to be done for the lower foremast as well Yikes!!., and with the upper masts –
 
Oh no! still learning -TOO late for those, however minor – it’s still not right; spars will become crowded with shrouds. Grrr (lot’s of grrrs I know J)
 
Mates - thanks so much for your continued interest in this build. I hope that my mistakes will be helpful to some other members.
 
Cheers,

 

Thanks Mates for your posts.
 
Karl, I just looked at the pin locations sheets you sent me, and no the Billings do not have pins either in of those two locations.
PS: Karl, mi compadre, I will be re-visiting your log for sails help (:-) 
 
Patrick thanks again.
 
So just the Corel AND the museum's 1/10th got it wrong - now that's an irony indeed.
 
EJ, might want to ask some questions at "masting, rigging, sails. Certainly members who have not followed this particular thread would have this knowledge base, and they would certainly be helpful. 
Your Couronne was built at the same time as the Vasa. I'm sure that the French were "ahead" of any navy's of their day - I'm sure that they thought as much then, prob. still do today ha ha. So keep the pin holes!! But that would be interesting historically French vs Dutch 1628-36
 
Cheers,

I'm glad I could help.
Another BB Vasa without the pinoles  

I hope I'm not too late with this picture.
On the original ship in the museum, there are no holes.
 
And this seems to be an original piece of the ship.

hey there Michael........this is quite a ship your building!   you can't be that much of a novice,  pull'in off some of the stuff I've seen here     really super work.........!   I haven't gone though the entire log.......but I will