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About puckotred

  • Birthday 11/16/1964

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    Gotheborg, Sweden

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  1. Any acrylic primer and paint will do. Sanding, you have to be careful. Begin with a fine grit and see how much it bites. But I must say that the supports are very sloppy placed. When I print in resin I try to place the supports where they will be as hidden as possible. At least they didn't just break them off, that would leave "dimples" on the pieces. Sand them away carefully.
  2. Any program that outputs G-code will do. Just remember the machine has no endswitches so always think of the boundaries. This is a good introduction to the 3018
  3. Hi cookster, I'm still very happy with the machine. Though the laser being a diode is not really strong enough to cut other than very thin plywood. The tuning of the laser can be tedious but once you get used to it it's no big deal. The cnc part of the machine works great for model ship building. One thing that is extremely useful is when I have to drill lots of holes for pinrails etc. Making the toolpath in Fushion360 is dead accurate. tell the program how many holes for certain lenght and it places them even so you don't have to do the math. I did all the pinrails for Royal Caroline in one go.... And the machine is good fun playing with. Making signs, laseretching my daughters pencils with her name etc. For me it is the best toy I've had for years.
  4. The spindle is interchangeable with a 7W diode laser module, so it's both...
  5. As I continue throwing away parts of my build I had to make a new lasercarving for my Royal Caroline. The original wood was very porous I had some difficulties getting the same depth in this much harder veneer. (leftover from Amatis Titanic. Only one I could find with matching thickness). But after lots of testburns it finally went my way. This little machine has helped me a lot so far.
  6. Hi folks Bought me a 3018 cnc/laser kit some weeks ago. just to have something to play around with... Then I vacuumed up the masts feet of my Royal Caroline, and made new ones with the laser module. Then this morning I discovered that you had to make the anchor bits (and some other stuff) from some plywood squares... So I did the Toolpaths in Fushion 360 and tried the cnc: Only problem was that I had the feed rate too high so the first 1mm bit broke but lowering the feedrate 50% fixed that... the machine: Old MacBook Air to operate it: It's now my favorite toy.
  7. Well, it's new to the BBC. It's great!!! And if one doesn't like the story of the Tuunbaq one can always loose oneself in all the detail they chucked into this production. The ships, the clothing etc etc. more here To fully understand the story of the monster, reading the book is necessary. But even without that part, scurvy, botulism, consumption, freezing and starving is terrifying enough....
  8. If you want a 3d model of a cannon something like this I could do it for you on my spare time. As many polygons as you want. I did this set for my Bounty 1:45 scale. They printed well in resin.
  9. Maybe try to export the object as a .Obj file and load it to the slicer. BTW, what slicer program are you using? So far I found LycheeSlicer to be the best free program. It does a good job finding islands and faults in the model. I printed my Bounty cannons straight up with the muzzel against the print plate. Though I modelled the cannons in Cinema4d. Edit: Also there is a BIG difference in resin quality... went through some brands before I found one that works ok with smaller items... Edit again; I'm printing in resin,,,
  10. 1: I use mine until they break... 2: A caliper should do 3: I once bought the expencive bits and cried every time they broke 4: if the instructions goes by metric it would be easier with metric bits 5: I buy lots of cheap ones, I'm not a pro but it looks like I'm breaking them as a pro...
  11. Tjalle, check these out: https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/AT-RT5205.html#SID=428 it's one of those "must have" tools
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