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Gerald, just another fantastic build that you should be very proud of accomplishing! Now what may be next? 

Fig-157 - Now we come to the second working model of the pump mechanism, shown here is the fly wheel, the one of the Bilge Pump double cylinders, together with one of the four cam assemblies.  This consists of the cam set in the rectangular cage, to the bottom of which is the pump  piston/cup.  What would have been two rollers, set to run in the cam groove, I have substituted two fine brass screw, with lock nuts to hold them in place.  When the cam rotates, it is these rollers/screws that then create the vertical movement of the pump.  Each of the cams are individually keyed to the drive shaft.

Fig-158 - The base for the working model, with the two twin pump cases installed .

Fig-159 - A full set of parts for the working model - the two twin pump casings at the top, together with the four cam assemblies, with cages, pump shafts and pistons/cups. Below them is the flywheel and drive shaft, distance pieces and handles for working the pump. And at the bottom the Bilge Pump frame, consisting of two end plates and connecting rods.

Fig-160 - The assembly was very informative, as it was most probably the main reason the Patent, was dropped very shortly after it was put into practice and manufactured.  One of those ideas that look very good on paper, but turn out to be less so, when put into practice. Not so much for the design, but for the maintenance, to keep it running, and that on a ship at sea.
 
The drive shaft has assembled on it the four complete cam units, each keyed to the shaft, with a distance piece between to locate them directly over their respective cylinders , into which they are then dropped as a unit,  then mounted between the two end plates.  With the assembly then completed with the fly wheel and handles to work the pumps at each end.  It soon became apparent that should one of the pumps be in need of attention - replacement valve - then the assembly of the drive shaft complete with all four cam units would need to be removed from the frame to get to any one of them.  It would be impossible to remove one piston/valve cup, with out removing all four
 
With a crank shaft and connecting rod to the piston/cup containing the offending valve - on the more normal Bilge Pump design -  just two bolts at the crank shaft end, is all that would be needed to be removed to extract that offending piston/cup valve part.
 
In the working miniature, after the problem of making the cams, the drive shaft proved to be the next most problematic.  It being exceedingly thin, yet needing four slots in it for each of the keys for the four cams. I solved the problem by using stainless steel hypodermic needle tubing, one for the shaft, and a second, the next size up to slip over it,  for the distance pieces between the cams.  The shaft was threaded at each end to take the end locating piece, that also included the bearings and squared ends for the handles.

Fig-161- Here  can be seen the complete drive shaft and piston assembly.

Fig-162- All fitted and ready to go. - view of the font of the Wallace & Sons Bulge Pump as originally fitted the the Falls of Clyde.

Fig-163- All fitted and ready to go. - view of the font of the Wallace & Sons Bulge Pump as originally fitted the the Falls of Clyde.

Fig-164 - Now to return to the main model of the centre 40 frames of the Falls of Clyde - The finish - an iron ship, I did not wish to show it in brass, or with a rusty finish, so chose a dull nickel finish, the problem was would the electrolytic Nickel throw into the centre of the model from both ends?  Chrome will throw in a direct line only and anything in it’s way will form a shadow.  However Nickel can to a limited extent throw around corners, so it was worth a try.  There is a none electrolytic Nickel plating available, and plating kits for the asking, but I had just the one large item to plate , and a very good and understanding plater on hand, so thought to trust him with the job in hand as a starter.
Good decision - 95% of the model took the dull Nickel plate, with just a very small amount with a questionable finish right in the centre.  I  touched these areas up with a small plating kit for dull Nickel and the job was completed.

Fig-165- The stub masts, Bilge Pumps and deck house were removed and plated separately, then reassembled after the plating process was completed.

Fig-166- End view of the finished Centre section  model showing the complete Bilge Pump assembly detailing 

Fig-167- The working end of the Bilge pumps at 96th scale.

Fig-168- The Bilge of the Falls of Clyde model, showing the suction end of the down pipes, now completed.

Fig- 169- Deck house, and Main Mast now in place

Fig-170- the complete project, together with the tool set, required to create it - and a most rewarding one.

Fig-171- The working model of the Wallace & Sons Patent Bilge Pump, as originally  fitted to the Falls of Clyde in 1878.
 
All that is covered in this Build Log, is at this time, is being assembled for permanent public display on the Barque Glenlee, on the Clyde in Port Glasgow, Scotland.  This to show to a younger generation how the famous Scottish iron ships were put together on the Clyde in the late 1800s. < https://thetallship.com >
Fig-172.mp4

With the exterior complete I started on the interior of the hull. I was worried about breaking off bits of the bulkheads that sat proud of the sheer plank and trimming them down level with the sheer plank was the next step. I started by creating a witness line on the bulkhead. I used a small machinist rule to span the hull at each bulkhead set with the edge of the ruler on the sheer plank. I then drew a light pencil "witness" line from below the ruler on both sides of each bulkhead. This is not a "cut to" line, it's to get me close enough while keeping the bulkhead tops level. This is pretty much per the instructions.
 

 
With all of the bulkheads marked I shaved them down with a single edge razor blade. I made thin slices, the grain of the bulkheads is horizontal and the wood wants to split if you try to take off too much at once. This was actually pretty quick and easy work. I left each bulkhead top just a smidgeon proud of the sheer plank and finished touching up with a manicure flexible file. The top sheer is curved so it is nearly impossible to shaved the bulkheads flush to the sheer without the razor blade digging into the sheer. 
 

In this photo you can get an idea at how thin of slices I was taking. 
 

 
With the bulkheads trimmed down I started chiseling out the false keel. This was quick and easy work using a chisel blade in the exacto knife. The grain of the false keel runs parallel with the false keel so some caution is needed to not split the wood. My advice, take thin slices at a time. 
 

With false keel whittled down it was time to start fairing the bulkheads. This is ALOT of sanding!! Hours and hours of sanding..... I used 120 grit to do the majority of the work, then went back over everything with succeeding finer grits to 400. I used a piece of the manicure nail file (the kind that are foam with sandpaper on each side) that I cut in half length wise and about 2" long wrapped in sandpaper. This worked really well, the nail file had just enough flex to get the correct angle on the bulkhead while stiff enough to not just round off the bulkhead. I also used a 1/4" x 1/16" scrap of plank as a batten where the thwart risers will go (3/8" below the top of the sheer plank) to ensure the bulkheads were sanded so that the thwart riser would lay flat against the bulkheads. Since the bulkheads needed to be adjusted vertically to the rabbit when they were glued to the keel, on my model at least this resulted in some bulkheads being higher or lower than they should have been resulting in, more sanding. 
 

Although the instructions do not address this, at the bow there is a block that is a lamination of the false keel and the bow block fillers. This sits proud in relation to the sheer plank and needs to be sanded down so that the cap rail will sit flush. Sanding against the end grain of a 1" square block of laminated wood is hard going!! I made witness marks on the back and sides of this component and used a tiny disc sander attachment in the Dremel to sand the majority down. I finished up with the chisel blade exacto and finally some light sanding with a sanding block. I don't think it needs to be perfectly sanded flat and flush, I don't think it will be visible in the finished model but I was just getting the hang of this sanding thing so I went for it! 
 

I will apply a coat of poly and paint the inside of the sheer planks before installing the floor boards so I skipped ahead a little and installed the stern locker braces and stern locker wall. I made a jig from a piece of scrap plank that was long enough to span from sheer to sheer and then glued a 3/8" long piece of scrap plank perpendicular to it to mark the transom and bulkhead interior used for the stern locker wall. You can see this simple jig in the photo above, its between the pencil and the bow of the boat. Oddly enough the instructions tell you to save the inner portion of bulkhead #7 when you remove it for later use. On page 20 of the instructions they tell you to use the center area of bulkhead 6. I will confirm 6 does not fit, it is in fact #7 that's used. I did have to make a notch for the false keel but that was pretty easy. 
 

Tomorrow I'll apply poly to the interior and then wait a few days to apply the paint and continue my build. Thanks for looking!
 

Guilty as charged! I will look forward to your progress and feedback. Just a note again on the plans they were 100% size when sent to Model Expo so the size increase is due to what I mentioned above about reproduction.
 
When designing kits the challenge is always the instructions. M.E. wants short and sweet and as few pages as possible while some builders need ever nut and bolt explained. I always try to put myself in the builder's head while writing the instructions and strike a happy compromise between novice and experienced.
 
Keep up the great build you have going.  

Greg, I have been busy on a couple of projects for Model Expo kits. Cannot post until authorized but it does involve some rigging. 

Dave, Great job! Now your mornings are free to exercise! 

Greg, I have been busy on a couple of projects for Model Expo kits. Cannot post until authorized but it does involve some rigging. 

Dave, Great job! Now your mornings are free to exercise! 

Dave, I mentioned the Jacob's ladders and monkey ropes at the top of the masts and I am working on a project where I just finished doing them. I just thought I might share with you how I went about doing them using Model Expo's Ratliner. The picture are self explanatory, but if you have a specific question please ask. 
First I made a fixture to cut the rungs to length and drill holes, fairly simple like me.

 

 

 

 

 
Notice just for you I left the Clove hitches off as an alternative. Hope this helps with your build.

Dave, try tinning the thicker copper ring first with a thin coating of solder plummer's 50/50. Then solder the elbow parts with Staybrite solder and leave excess solder in place then with soft binding wire hold the ring to the elbow and heat the edge of the ring the copper will carry the heat faster to the thinner brass and flow the joint. The 50/50 has a lower temp than the Staybrite.  Looking at the size of the parts you should be able to do this with a small 40 watt iron. Or if using a torch set the flame as small as possible. Make sure the iron is hot and use the correct flux. 
Another option is to us a wood plug through the ring to index the brass elbow while soldering; you will love the smell of burning wood in the morning. 
 
Solder Putty as mentioned above is available at  www.OttoFrei.com , but you should be able to do this no problem. Update: I just checked their site and they no longer sell the Solder Putty.

Dave, try tinning the thicker copper ring first with a thin coating of solder plummer's 50/50. Then solder the elbow parts with Staybrite solder and leave excess solder in place then with soft binding wire hold the ring to the elbow and heat the edge of the ring the copper will carry the heat faster to the thinner brass and flow the joint. The 50/50 has a lower temp than the Staybrite.  Looking at the size of the parts you should be able to do this with a small 40 watt iron. Or if using a torch set the flame as small as possible. Make sure the iron is hot and use the correct flux. 
Another option is to us a wood plug through the ring to index the brass elbow while soldering; you will love the smell of burning wood in the morning. 
 
Solder Putty as mentioned above is available at  www.OttoFrei.com , but you should be able to do this no problem. Update: I just checked their site and they no longer sell the Solder Putty.