qwerty2008

I am glad to see your build back on MSW.
 
Lextin

Here are some pictures of a full size block that I made aways back, it only has one eye but to make a second eye you would just need a larger loop of rope and seize the eye around the boom first then seize the second around the block.



 
To seize start from the eye end and make a loop as shown,

then begin wrapping (if on a block wrap towards the block) around the rope being seized,

once you reach the end of your seize pull the end through the loop created earlier.

then pull the loop tight until the loop disappears inside the seize,

and lastly cut the ends off.
 
 
Lextin.

I saw that Michael Mott had built a mini version of his Bristol Pilot Cutter and thought that I would follow his lead and try to build a mini version of my Byzantium. The model was originally supposed to be a ship in a bottle but I didn't like the way it fit in the bottle so I decided to make it be a equivalently 1:20 scale model on display on its larger counterpart.
Starting out.
The shaped hull.
With the bulwarks and the main hatch installed.
With the gunports cut and the rail installed.
Magnified view.
Cannons installed.
Painted.
 
 
 

I will re-title when I find out which ship I am going to build. I found this cheapo ship in a bottle and am planning on making a new ship for the bottle. after I took these pictures I noticed a cut in the base of the bottle where the original builder cut the bottle open then placed the whole model inside, what should I do to hide this when I an done with the model?
Note the rope covering the cut.


 

These might be posted here already but I found them very helpful with the rigging on my Byzantium. 
The Elements and Practice of Rigging and Seamanship
Boy's Manual of Seamanship and Gunnery
 
 
 
Lextin.

I decided to make a Turks head for the neck of the bottle from a rope I made earlier today wile testing my ropewalk
 
its the second one down on the page in the link
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1516-yet-another-ropewalk-knex-anyone/
 




 

I have finished the model it came out terrible but it is ok considering that I built it in less than one day. Also I managed to get it in without opening the bottom of the bottle. I noticed two things wrong after I got it in the bottle 1 There was no way to attach it to the clay 2 I forgot to make anchors.
 
How did I get it in the bottle? The hull was to tall to fit in the hull so I made the aft structure removable to where once you get it in the bottle I simply snap the two pieces together. then using tweezers I fit all three of the mast into position. then tighten the rigging and add a drop of glue to secure the lines.
 
Maby latter on down the road I will revisit this project and make a new ship.
 After I got it in the bottle and got the first two mast in place.
After I got all three mast in place.
Trying to push the model into the clay.
Almost there.
Done.

 

your in luck I have finished the rigging and my camera was being really good today. I did change the rigging between the mast after the pics of it setup because the mast would not collapse properly.
    Also I got the reply box working again .
Adding the last fore stay.
Almost there.
Done.

I have decided to bottle it after all   now that its painted it looks a lot better in the bottle.


I tried to make it more authentic by putting a rat in the hold..... the rat was too big

I bought a cork today and popped it in the neck of the bottle, now the model is finished.

Just a wire with a loop at the end for glue and some long tweezers.
I got it finished now I just need to get a cork and make a turkhead knot for the neck.
A small table . JK its the cradle.





Now adding the ship.

Trying to position it.

Glued in place.

Rigging glued and trimmed. note small brown smudge on jib   that was a drop of wood stain that got on the model when I was staining the cradle oops . I will just say that it is a pacth were a cannon ball hit it .

Next to the mini Byzantium.

I made the sails and did a final test fit. Next will come the cradle and the final install.


 

Since I couldn't work on my 1:48 scale Triton cross section as much as I would like I decided to make a smaller one in a bottle. I went mostly by memory for the design it is made mostly from card and balsa wood the cannons were turned from bamboo on my drill press all the coloring was done with redwood stain and black Rust-Oleum spray paint sprayed into a jar then thinned (probably a bit too much note the bleeding on one of the cannon carriages) with acetone. I made the model in pieces so that I could fit it threw the neck of the bottle then I assembled it inside the bottle it came out a little crooked but looks OK. I still need to put on some finishing touches on the outside of the bottle before I'm done it took less then two days to to get to this point.
 

I added the finishing touches to the Black Pearl and they made all the difference as the model now looks rather nice just as long as you don't look to closely. I will still finish the second one but I think that this one will be the getting a new home after all. 



 
 
 
Lextin.

I finished the Sophie. Here are the final pictures.




 
 
 
 
Lextin.

I completed the model next will come the plaque that the bottle will be mounted to. I originally thought that I would go into more detail but my skills arm't up to par with this scale (or any scale for that matter) and it won't get looked at too closely anyways.
 



 
 
 
 
 
Lextin.

I got a little carried away with building and forgot to take pictures. The hull is made from a scrap of some sort of dense fine grained wood that I find great for carving. I carved the hull with it still attached to the block as per Daniel Siemens method then worried that it would not fit in the bottle I cut it off and sure enough it was way too big to fit though the neck of the bottle. I remedied the problem by filling the bottle with water and using a diamond bit on the dremel I ground the inside of the neck to a square profile to allow the model to pass trough unhindered, this will later be hidden by a Turks head knot. The sea is made from some non-hardening modeling clay pressed onto the bottom of the bottle. I still need to finish the mast and paint both the mast and funnel as well as run the rigging, which is just one line running from the stern to the top of the funnel then to the mast and back down to the bow.





 
 
Lextin.

I found this same site when I was making the turks head for my first ship in a bottle.

Your soldering is a heck of a lot better then anything I could have done.
 
 
 
 
Lextin. 

The size limitations are mostly due to the size of the machine. Time is also a factor. If you are printing something huge, it can take a very long time to do. I shudder to think of how long a print would take if I maxed out my build volume of 300mm by 220mm by 500mm. Also I should note that my the printer was only 280mm by 200mm by 200mm when I first got it. All you need to do to increase build volume is make the frame larger and reflect the new size in the firmware. 
The main difference I see in the machines is build quality and safety features. Take the Anet A8 for example: though its a decent size it has a flimsy acrylic frame and lack of thermal runaway protection. Thermal runaway protection is very important as thermal runaway is the leading cause of fires with printers. With the A8 this commonly happens if its improperly assembled or poorly maintained. The heater block has little to secure the heater cartridge and thermistor. If one or both works its way out of the block, the heater will continued to get hotter until it sets something on fire. The Ender3 on the other hand has a similar build volume but that frame is made from 2040 and 4040 aluminum extrusions making it very stiff. The Ender3 also has thermal runaway protection and a better designed heatblock.
One thing that's good to look for is the upgradeability of the machine. Extrusion frames are nice, open source firmware is good to have, and if it uses a proprietary slicing software that's an instant no-go for me. Basically, the ones that look less like a kitchen appliance are usually better.
 

The size limitations are mostly due to the size of the machine. Time is also a factor. If you are printing something huge, it can take a very long time to do. I shudder to think of how long a print would take if I maxed out my build volume of 300mm by 220mm by 500mm. Also I should note that my the printer was only 280mm by 200mm by 200mm when I first got it. All you need to do to increase build volume is make the frame larger and reflect the new size in the firmware. 
The main difference I see in the machines is build quality and safety features. Take the Anet A8 for example: though its a decent size it has a flimsy acrylic frame and lack of thermal runaway protection. Thermal runaway protection is very important as thermal runaway is the leading cause of fires with printers. With the A8 this commonly happens if its improperly assembled or poorly maintained. The heater block has little to secure the heater cartridge and thermistor. If one or both works its way out of the block, the heater will continued to get hotter until it sets something on fire. The Ender3 on the other hand has a similar build volume but that frame is made from 2040 and 4040 aluminum extrusions making it very stiff. The Ender3 also has thermal runaway protection and a better designed heatblock.
One thing that's good to look for is the upgradeability of the machine. Extrusion frames are nice, open source firmware is good to have, and if it uses a proprietary slicing software that's an instant no-go for me. Basically, the ones that look less like a kitchen appliance are usually better.
 

You could plop a Titan Aero on it. That would allow you to significantly up the speed. Lulzbot sells a head with the Titan Aero, so you can probably get the files for the new X carriage off their site.

You can actually get it for free if you're a hobbyist or a startup. No need to get a student licence. 

The size limitations are mostly due to the size of the machine. Time is also a factor. If you are printing something huge, it can take a very long time to do. I shudder to think of how long a print would take if I maxed out my build volume of 300mm by 220mm by 500mm. Also I should note that my the printer was only 280mm by 200mm by 200mm when I first got it. All you need to do to increase build volume is make the frame larger and reflect the new size in the firmware. 
The main difference I see in the machines is build quality and safety features. Take the Anet A8 for example: though its a decent size it has a flimsy acrylic frame and lack of thermal runaway protection. Thermal runaway protection is very important as thermal runaway is the leading cause of fires with printers. With the A8 this commonly happens if its improperly assembled or poorly maintained. The heater block has little to secure the heater cartridge and thermistor. If one or both works its way out of the block, the heater will continued to get hotter until it sets something on fire. The Ender3 on the other hand has a similar build volume but that frame is made from 2040 and 4040 aluminum extrusions making it very stiff. The Ender3 also has thermal runaway protection and a better designed heatblock.
One thing that's good to look for is the upgradeability of the machine. Extrusion frames are nice, open source firmware is good to have, and if it uses a proprietary slicing software that's an instant no-go for me. Basically, the ones that look less like a kitchen appliance are usually better.
 

You could plop a Titan Aero on it. That would allow you to significantly up the speed. Lulzbot sells a head with the Titan Aero, so you can probably get the files for the new X carriage off their site.