Erik W

Glenn, And I appreciate your recommendation a few months ago. The fly tying thread works great for small applications. Erik

In the last couple of weeks I've finished the gun tackles on 9 of the 10 carronades. It took some trial and error to get these the way I wanted them. My first attempt at seizing both blocks might have been more prototypical, based on the photos I was looking at, with a noticeable small gap between the block and the rear of the attached rigging hook, with the seizing in between. This though made the two blocks on the sides of the carronades closer to one another, which to my eye, looked less visually appealing than having the blocks spaced further apart. So, I settled on rigging the blocks with the back of the hooks nearly touching the blocks and with the seizing done using 72 denier 8/0 W fly tying thread (see bottom photo), rather than small sewing thread. This also kept the seizings from looking too bulky, which I've noticed from looking at photos of other builds, can tend to happen when rigging smaller blocks. One accidental challenge I made for myself is not paying attention to Chuck's instructions for using 28 gauge wire to make the eye bolts on the carronades. I inadvertently used 24 gauge wire, but formed to the correct outside diameter as shown on the plans. When I realized this, I thought it would be no big deal. The problem is that it left a hole that Chuck's 3mm black plastic rigging hooks barely fit into. Some eye bolts wouldn't take the hooks at all, or the hooks broke while trying to attach. So . . . . I had a sheet of the old brass 3mm hooks. I super glued two of those together so they're the same .020" thickness as the black plastic hooks, and then was able to bend them as required. I only used these on the rear blocks where the hook is vertical, so intermixing the black plastic hooks with the brass hooks wouldn't be noticeable. And I figure accidentally using the thicker 24 gauge wire for the eye bolts vs. the correct 28 gauge wire isn't noticeable since the outside diameter of the loop is the same as it would be with the smaller diameter wire. Anyway, that's my cautionary tale of why reading comprehension is important in model building. Haha! Also, between the making the breech rope and the gun tackles, I'm feeling much more self-assured as I approach the rigging phase of the build. I'm more confident that the outcome of the rigging will be of the same standard I've achieved for this build thus far. Erik

Yikes! That was always my fear at that stage of my Cheerful build. Having to remove something I had glued in place. Nice job on not breaking anything! And you're right in wanting to correct noticeable mistakes now. Anything out of sorts at this stage will just create and compound problems down the road. Erik

Johann, I agree with Greg above, your rigging really sets the standard for what can be accomplished. As I enter the rigging stage on my build (currently with the carronades and cannons), I'm inspired by your work. While being a beginner myself, your close-up high resolution photos are very helpful as I learn what I need to do. I feel with the rigging, more than any other aspect of the build, photos are most helpful with visualizing how to accomplish the tasks. Erik

I finished the breech ropes. I definitely got better at the seizings as I did more of them. It's hard to see, but the seizings on the starboard side are a bit more clean looking than the port side. More importantly, I feel more comfortable with this intro to rigging stage of things. So, I may actually be able to do a credible job of rigging this thing after all. Now onto the gun tackles . . . Erik

This week I've been in assembly line mode with fashioning the breech ropes and attaching them to the carronades, and then attaching the carronades to the deck. Chuck's advice on the seizings above has been invaluable for a newby like me. Six down, four to go . . . *note: It looks like I'm using different color red paint. It's the same bottle of Vallejo red I've used all along, but I've noticed it looks more orange when newly applied, but for some reason darkens to more red over time. Weird. At any rate, when not under the bright glare of a closely positioned halogen light for photos, the variation is not noticeable to the naked eye. Erik

Chuck, When you came up with the rope list for the Cheerful, did you figure in extra rope, like you did extra wood with the wood list? And I just made my 3rd breech rope following your method above. Much less frustrating, and it took about 35 minutes total, compared to 1 1/2 hours for the last breech rope I made. And no pulling out the seizings and starting over. Erik

Chuck, Thank you so much!! I'm glad to see you also posted this tutorial on your Speedwell log. This needs a wider audience. This step by step tutorial is exactly what I needed. I had done my second breech rope yesterday, which turned out well, but I still was fumbling around with how to best hold/secure the breech rope and seizing thread while making the seizings. So far my outcomes have been fine, but the process of fumbling through it has been super irritating. So this will help a lot. Also, I did have the thought that because rigging is new to me, and unlike any other modeling skill I've mastered over the decades, I'm feeling that beginner frustration with how to best approach it. At least my finished product looks good. I just now need to develop the skill set to venture forth confidently. Thanks again Chuck. I really do appreciate it! Erik

Mike, I appreciate your super clean planking. It's always been an inspiration for me. Good luck healing from the Mohs. The worst is behind you. I've had a few skin cancer surgeries, including Mohs. It's never fun, but always a relief to have the problem removed. Erik

Thanks for the feedback guys! Peter, Thanks for the advice. I rigged up a temporary tool with a alligator clip on a wood block. Chuck, If you have time, I'd appreciate any photos you can post of your method. Todd, My cap squares were made from strips of black construction paper with the hinge being represented by 24 gauge wire. Low tech, but they actually look pretty good. Glenn, Yes! I had actually seen the helping hand you used in your post on the breech rope. As I get closer to the main rigging phase, I'll definitely keep those in mind. Thanks all, Erik

It's been a nerve wracking week . . . I started rigging the carronades, haha. This represents a milestone on this build for me. It's my first rigging done on the Cheerful. Rigging is the element of this hobby I have the least experience with, and really don't feel like I know what I'm doing, so I'm actually quite nervous as I tackle this part of the build. Taking a page from Mike's (Stuntflyer) Cheerful build log, I made a 3/32" (.010") spacer to put between the bulwarks and the front gun carriage wheels in order to get the spacing uniform as I attach them to the deck. Chuck's monograph, and build log posts, were spot on for making the breech rope. I manged to get the first one, pictured below, made on the first try. My seizings need a bit of work, but these early attempts are fine. The more I do, the better they'll get. Since the gun tackles will be positioned directly above them I'm not too worried about them being less than perfect. I'd like some advice from you folks with rigging experience. What, if anything, are you using to hold the rope when you seize the ends of it? I don't have anything currently to hold on to the main rope, so what you see below was done while simply holding it in my hands. This was quite awkward, not ideal, and I could tell I was at least one holding point short of what what I needed. Thanks, Erik

Thanks for the likes and positive comments. Nirvana, thanks for the link to the UMM flush cutters. I hadn't seen those before. Erik

The carronades and cannons are now finished and ready to be rigged. I applied a black primer/paint coat over the self etching primer. And then dusted them with a dark rust weathering powder (hard to see in these photos). In the last photo they are just temporarily set into place. Erik

It's been a bit over a month since I've posted anything. So consider this as a bit of a proof-of-life post. Haha. I spent 2 ½ weeks traveling around Hokkaido, Japan. That was a lot of fun. Japan is a great place to travel. While home, I have been working on Cheerful. I made a ton of small eye bolts for the gun carriages. I also broke out the airbrush and painted the gun carriages. This morning I primed the brass cannons and carronades. I'll spray them black tomorrow. Here are a couple of quick photos of the progress. Erik

Thanks for all the likes on my last post. For this week I finished the bow cannons, made the 12 quoin handles, and drilled and added the extra bolts on the gun carriages. Since these will all be painted I went ahead and used .020" styrene rod. It's easier to work with and cut than wire. The bolts stand proud of the surface by .010", which looks good to my eye. I made a quick jig out of .010" thick styrene, and then cut the bolt heads flush with my superb PBL flush cutters (one of the highest quality, best tools I own, and sadly long discontinued - the cutting surface edges are very precise and produce an absolutely perfect flush cut). The last step before the carriages will be painted is to drill the eye bolt holes (with the eye bolts to be added at a later time) and do a bit of clean up and filling where needed. This will probably be my last update for some time. I have family coming into town next week, and then I head off to Hokkaido, Japan to explore for a while. Erik

This is a beautiful model. I've been following your build closely. I didn't realize until the very end that this was your first wooden ship build. As I am approaching the rigging phase of my Cheerful (also my first wooden ship build), I plan on referencing all your posts on rigging. That's probably the part of my build that I'm most nervous about. I don't want to screw things up this far into the project! At any rate, your inspiring Alert shows whats possible to achieve as a beginner. Erik

I've been working on the cannonades the last few weeks. This type of purely repetitive part of modeling is definitely not one of my favorites. Cleaning the char off the first one, and then assembling it was interesting. The other 9, not so much. Haha. It gives me new found respect for you folks building large ships of the line! The objective at this point was to get these as near identical to one another as possible. They need post-assembly clean up after I also build the 2 bow cannons. I'm planning on air brushing the carriages. This will be much less time consuming than hand painting them. Erik

I spent the week making 17 belaying pins using my Dremel tool. While it's not too difficult to make one belaying pin, trying to make a bunch that are identical proved to be impossible. Glad I'm done with that step! They turned out pretty good anyway. I remind myself that once all is said and done, there will be rope placed around all of them, so any variations in shape that are visible now, won't be able to be seen then. Erik

Mike, Thanks for the tip. I had figured out using fingernail files when my regular files were leaving gouges in the wood. I have a pillar file I'll give a try as well. Erik

With outdoor temperatures up to 98 degrees (37 Celsius) here this week, it was easy to want to stay indoors and work on my Cheerful. After procrastinating for a bit, I tackled a couple of things I've been putting off. I built the ladders. These were a bit of a challenge as they are not straight, even though they look straight. They actually lean aft with the sheer of the deck. It took a while to get all the steps cut to exactly the same length, and the notches filed into the ladder sides, since I did all that by hand. They wound up turning out the way I had hoped with the right amount of lean and both ladders being symmetrical when compared with one another. I know the model will rarely be viewed from dead ahead or dead astern, but hey, you have to put your best foot forward. The other thing I had been procrastinating was making the belaying pins. In my 45 years of model making I've never fashioned a part using a power tool. So, the photo you see below is my first attempt at making a belaying pin. I used the Dremel rotary tool my dad gave me as a gift in 1985 when I was fifteen years old. I followed the dimensions Mike (Stuntflyer) had used for the belaying pins on his Cheerful build. The pin is .375" long, or 18" in 1/48 scale. I turned the square stock down to .045" in diameter, then shaped the top. The bottom shaft was then reduced to .030" in diameter. It looks rough obviously, but turned out OK for a first attempt. The little collar between the lower shaft and the handle looks a little clunky, so on the production pins, I'll reduce the width of that a bit. I still have some playing around to do with which specific files I'll use, but I'm happy I got over the mental hurdle of giving it a try in the first place! Erik

Johann, Thanks for the nice compliment! That means a lot coming from someone of your skill level. Erik

Over the last couple of weeks I made the catheads and bow pin rail. These were pretty straight forward, though they required a lot of measuring, and as always I proceeded slooooowly. It was a bit nerve wracking cutting out the sections of the cap rail. The more hours I have into this build, the more nervous I get when I have to remove material! This was my first time cutting sheaves into wood. I used a technique Chuck had posted about a while back for those of us using hand tools. I practiced a couple of times on some scrap wood before creating them on the catheads. The results turned out decent. One technique I'd like to share with you folks is when you look at where my catheads meet the bulwark you see that it's seamless. To achieve this look I shaped the cathead as close to the correct profile as possible, and then after they were glued in place I made a mix of 50/50 wood glue/water and using the tip of a straight pin to apply, ran a thin bead down the seam. Once dry, I then used a small paint brush to paint the red or black over the seam. It's pretty effective on parts that will be painted. I've found if you do the same with mat medium thinned with water, it even works on seams between painted parts and bare wood. The mat medium is used in this case to avoid a shiny seam on the unpainted joint between the painted and non-painted parts. As always, thanks for looking, Erik

Glenn, Thanks for the compliments. I think it's just the angle of the photos for the pin rails. They're made/shaped exactly to size from the plans. Erik

Thanks for the kind words and likes. When photographing a couple weeks of work it doesn't really look like I made much progress! I attached the rest of the cleats to the bulwarks, drilled all the holes for the cannon eyebolts, formed the 60 or so eyebolts needed, and then made and attached the side pin rails. When attaching the eyebolts, I only glued in the top ones, and left the lower ones off. I made a jig out of styrene to get the holes in the bulwarks consistent. And being a perfectionist, the forming of the eyebolts themselves wound up taking some time. I had a question regarding the inboard bulwark ladders for you Cheerful builders. The instructions say, "You will find the template on the plans to cut the sides for the ladder. But just to make life easier, print the next page as all of the elements are provided". None of the 3 plan sheets have a template for the sides of the ladder. And I'm not sure what the print the next page reference means. There are no plans for the ladders in the written instructions either. Does anyone happen to have a plan that shows the side shape of the ladder? I guess I can make a good guess based on photos of the ladder pieces shown in Chuck's instructions, but it would be a little easier if I had a template to reference/print. While still working on the Cheerful almost daily, my progress has slowed down a fair amount. With the warmer weather and longer days, there's lots to do outside, so the path forward on the build will be a bit slower while I enjoy the summer. Erik

Glenn. This looks superb! I like the display base too. Erik