dragzz

Hi Mates,
 
Minor update finishing-up the anchors; I decided to use the Corel provided stocks (the two light wood pieces are from “I don’t remember” were).
 
The anchors should be attached to two separate half stalks. I faked this by using a micro saw blade to imitate the two halves. Weak, but looks ok. Though I needed to add a shunt to fix the anchors in place.
 
Then went down to the kitchen to take command of some of the Admiral’s designer for “guest” toothpicks.  Photos are self-explanatory so will keep this brief. The Vasa did not use metal framing, but instead had treenails for joining the two halves, along with four metal bolts.
 
-----------------------------
 
My first attempt at wrapping the anchor rings with rope was, well a failure. As you can see-oops- not enough rope length on my first attempt. Second and third tries were charms. Using tarred rope was a question, but the 1/10th did not, so I mimicked that thought.
 
As I went along, I used GS Hypo to fix in place the three or four loops at a time. Came out better than I expected. After dabbing the glue I used a finger to remove excess. This glue is really cool. As you can see the glue disappears.
 
Last few pics just for the visual. Need to attach and fix anchor’s main ropes etc.…though not sure about the anchor rope, maybe too thick??  
 
Also need to make two buoys per Landström’s drawings. Speaking of whom the correct details for wrapping the rings with rope are SO beyond my skills, I saw the pic and started laughing…..
 
PS: Only port side will have the fish-davit, for a “transition look”.
PS2: Yes those eight brass nails should be black, got lazy on this bit. Time will dull them (;-)
 
As always thanks so much for your dropping by.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

here u can see i got some planks on so far looking great time will tell 
 
 
 

here u can see i got some planks on so far looking great time will tell 
 
 
 

yes i am back in the shipyard , and i will have some update pictures soon

here u can see i got some planks on so far looking great time will tell 
 
 
 

that stand  came out great mobbsie  keep up the great work

Hi Guys,
 
Just a quick update to let you know how things are with the Aggy.
 
I haven't been totally idol but the progress on the ship has slowed slightly, the rigging continues and has seen all the breast ropes and backstays completed on the Foremast, all 4 anchors are made up and ready to be fitted when the time is right and I have made a new stand for the ship.
 
Oh ya, I also got some new toys, a swivel vice and a Clarkes Belt and Disc Sander.
 
All that remains for me to do now is, fit the Main Mast Breast Ropes and Back Stays, all the Braces and Sheets, some Cluelines and all the Tacks. Fit the anchors ( already made ) and the ships boats ( already made ).
 
I have the glass for the case so that needs to be assembled, once that's done I can take the inside measurements and get the base made up. So I would say in all about 2 - 3 weeks work left. Cleaning the ship will take some time before she goes under glass so I will have plenty of band aids and glue on hand for that task
 
OK enough said, time for some pics, rigging pics will follow soon.
 
My new belt and disc sander
  
 
Vacuum base swivel vice

 
The start of the new stand, all pieces are pegged with no glue used at all
 
 

 
Here's the finished base with a coat of Rosewood stain
  
 
I do hope guys that that will suffice as a quick update. There will be more to follow soon.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 

I have put the rebuild of the rear windows on hold whilst I continue with the bow section, really I actually thought this would be an easy stage but should know better, unlike some kits the pillars have to be made from stock and the wire is tough to bend so small and getting them all even is a nightmare. The kit shows the curved galleries level wih the deck but the real ship has them over the the edge of the deck, this is what I have done and will worry about the implications of doing this later in the build ( The last two picture are an attempt to shows this ).

Very nice JP !
 
Have confidence in your self and all the pieces are falling at the places they have to go...( make sense ? )
I think you have found it how it has to be.
Surprise me a little bit more and go on 
 
Sjors

Ahoy Mates
 
Thank you for the likes
 
Having your friends "like" what your doing really helps. Especially when your not sure what your doing 
 
Speaking of which 
Back to the build 
 
First I marked the path that the plank wanted to follow. 
 
Then I decided that because I could not subtract wood safely I would use positive numbers and then multiply by -1 
 
I used painters tape to slightly raise areas on the filler and tested with the plank to see how it was affected; paying attention to the any change in direction the tape caused. I would love to say my big brain got it on the first try but I wasn't even close. Anyways I found that by slightly raising the bottom near the bulkhead the plank's preferred course moved in the desired direction. Once this was discovered I very carefully started to sand the area opposite of the tape; again checking with the plank. The pic shows the plank properly positioned although there is still a very slight klinker at the bulkhead it is very close. I may or may not fix this but just let the plank drift up to reduce the klinker and then do the final repair when I sand the first planking. 
 
The stern is not going to be so easy. Testing there did not go well at all. Suggestions welcome. I might need to actually add wood to correct this and if this is so I will just plank it "as is" and then lie more planks over those and then sand it back down to the correct shape for the final planking 
 
 

Ahoy Nigel
 
First and foremost: Thank you. I consider it my good fortune to have someone of your caliber follow my build. 
 
As for the strength issue when considering the two layers of planking. "As is" Corel's keel, bulkhead, and stringer combination has created a mass that could be considered a deadly weapon. It really is a testament to the strength of a box. With the hull being so rigid I was hoping to do the first layer of planking as a guide for the second working out the steelers. drop planks and my planking skills. On the wales the kit uses different widths which should stagger the seams. I do agree that crossing the seams would create additional strength but I am not sure that much strength is needed. Currently without any planks this hull is as rigid as my fully planked Rattlesnake.  I plan to put some treenails in the first layer to "lock" it down to the bulkheads; just to be safe. 
 
Also Thank you for the tip on the Walnut. i had previously purchased a sheet from ME and sadly you are spot on. It is a beautiful piece but isn't even close 

here i go with the last stage of planking heres a little bit of it done so far so good 
 
 

here in the pic u will i have went and made my on jig for plank bending  its work real good for just put plank in water for 10mins then put it in the jig and use me heat gun on it then its all done works great
 
 

hello jpett  so its a meeting of the minds i see lol
 
as for the full planks i think it will look better then doing half planks its a bit more work but that ok for me
 
i started 10planks from the top and work my way to top of the deck if u know what i mean 
 
as far the walnut bending is good if u use the jig and pre bend them for it thats the best way dont use nails at all on it it will just split usless u pre drill hole 
 
all and all it going vary well

here i go with the last stage of planking heres a little bit of it done so far so good 
 
 

here i go with the last stage of planking heres a little bit of it done so far so good 
 
 

here i go with the last stage of planking heres a little bit of it done so far so good 
 
 

Ahoy Dragzz
 
Thanks for posting this 
 
So you are planking over your ports and coming back to them, cutting them out a second time. How is this working for you. Inquiring minds want to know. 
 
I also see the uppermost plank meets the top of the filler perfectly. Did you start here or measure and plank up to it. 
 
Lastly: How is it bending Corel's walnut. Your planking looks really good coming around the bow. 
 
Actually It all looks really good

here i go with the last stage of planking heres a little bit of it done so far so good 
 
 

Nice,
 
Billings sculptures are such an improvement over what Corel offers. And with plastic (once painted who cares) you can, as you did, adjust and shape them as needed. looks great. You also captured, very nicely, the angles for the towers. 
 
MIchael

here in the pic u will i have went and made my on jig for plank bending  its work real good for just put plank in water for 10mins then put it in the jig and use me heat gun on it then its all done works great
 
 

Ahoy Dragzz 
 
I am a big "fan" of the hobby heat gun for forming planks. 
 
For unruly planks, I soak them and then wrap the area in a wet paper towel then aluminium foil and nuke them with the gun. Just don't burn your fingers on them
 
If you use PVA glue it will also debond joints (wet the area first) I use a paint brush and apply water and heat to undo my screw ups. 

here in the pic u will i have went and made my on jig for plank bending  its work real good for just put plank in water for 10mins then put it in the jig and use me heat gun on it then its all done works great
 
 

here in the pic u will i have went and made my on jig for plank bending  its work real good for just put plank in water for 10mins then put it in the jig and use me heat gun on it then its all done works great
 
 

here it is just got to let it dry now