dragzz

Wishing you good luck here, JP.  I think the rabbet into the keel post would have been the way to go but I'm sure you can hammer this out.

Ahoy Mates
 
Mog: I find myself doing just that "way too much" 
 
Dragzz: I thought so too "until today' 
 
 
Back to the build 
 
DANGER WILL ROBERTSON 
 
Well it seems that I may have made a blunder here on my build. I have been postulating these rear fillers for many hours. Something was just not right. Well today I think I may have found that thing that's 'not right" 
 
The keel on Corel's Vic is 5mm wide. This is the same thickness as the material for the rudder. Hummmm
 
So if I add the planking thickness to this equation it means I must sand it to zero to meet the rudder. Even so where is the Keel post: there is no kit supplied part. Or does the planking terminates before the keel post and the keel is the post. It is my belief that the rear fillers on this "KIT" should have been shaped similar to the bow fillers where as "all the planks turn into the hull" and terminate as they come back to the keel the same as they do in the bow. Fake planks are then scribed into the keel along with the keel post. It all makes sense. Although one could argue that that is not correct practice in real shipbuilding as the planks on the lower half should lie against the hull up to a point and then turn into the keel this is a kit and kits are always full of compromises. I do believe this being one Corel choose here. Trust me i have looked at this from all angles including the one through my drink. It has been a very upsetting day in the shipyard.   
 
What to do: 
 
After much thought I have decided to have the kit try and stop my Tundra tires from rolling forward. After failing that I will repeat the test in reverse.
 
"lol" Just kidding but it did cross my mind and make me laugh. 
 
I think i can fix this by planking the hull as it would be on a real ship or most other kits (NOT WHAT COREL INTENDED) and then heavily fairing the planking into the stern post/keel end.  Next  remove/cut away any planking that covers the space that would be occupied by the stern post; insuring any planking here has been been sanded down to 1 mm. This would be followed by a complete "redo" of the keel post and entire exposed keel stem to stern with a 1mm walnut veneer. I might have to taper the end of the keel a bit where I remove the planking before applying the veneer so it meets the Rudder at the correct thickness. Or I could do the Rudder in slightly thicker wood. I could also do something nice here with the bow by using multiple pieces. .  
 
 
 If you have a better solution I would love to hear it. 
 
Either way unless I hear a better plan I will start planking the lower half of the hull to confirm my plan.
 
My fall back will be copper and paint 
 
There is always a way 
 
If I were to start this kit anew I might cut a rabbet where the stern post is or really just do it Corel's way which would not look bad
 
Lets see how my idea works. 
 
EDIT: My original thinking was wrong regarding that all the planking  should terminate at the filler: Please disregard it. I am terminating the first layer here. Read on  

jeeze Dragzz.......sorry to see your doing all this.    it appeared to me that the aft deck platform lifted on you in the front.  all you would have had to do is correct the angle of the platform by shimming it in the rear,   or remove material in the front.   the aft platform should flow along with the main deck.   I also notice that there are bulwark panels.........with this in mind,  I usually run the first plank just below the main deck line,  so when the panels are installed,  the mating between the planking and the panels cannot be seen on the inside.  of course,  your taking into account if there are bulwark posts,  and the height of the panels,   because that will change where the first plank will lay as well.
     I see that there is a stern panel......if it is taller in height than the bulwark panels,  it will make up for the gap left left by the first plank,  in relation for how it will lay at the stern.  the plank line being straight all the way to the stern,  will dictate how the rest of the hull planking will run........even with tapering.  taking into account for all of this,  will also determine,  whether or not you'll even need to double plank the hull.   the best way out of this problem would be to correct the aft deck platform,  so it flows with the main deck line,  then add the bulwark panels.   keeping the panel lines flush all the way back,  will set up the plank line,  and make it easier for you.

here is a pic of  what thay say to do 
 
 
 

 

ok here in the pic i have one of the planks on its 0.3 from the frames that what thay say to do it at so here it is .so far so good
 
 
 

Sorry for not posting sooner but 3 year old granddaughter had a bad ear infection and the Sooners lost to TCU.
 
I did work on Maria and discovered some problems that I had not anticipated.
 
The ribs making up the false hull were too tight. I was very concerned about making the fit too large so I spent two days carefully sanding everything to fit.
 
I lightly sanded all areas to be glued but the glue would only work in spots.
 
What is shown in the photo is mostly plywood. Initially I used Tightbond woos glue as I have many times. The glue would hold very well for half an inch but fail for three. This was regardless of degree of stress, amount of 'bite', or anything else. I broke out the super glue and had similar results.
 
Tiny nails and a new nailer finally worked.
 
After some cleaning up I will put the first planking layer on. The instructions and photos clearly state that a few full length planks are all that is needed because the rest will be filled in with stealers.
 
If fits well and looks good, there is a problem elsewhere

Ahoy Dragzz 
 
Why does the whole block need to go. Is it that bad 
 
I would think you could just put a little wood on the top of that filler and then sand it to get the correct angle for the deck.
 
Maybe I am not seeing something 

here in this pic u will i now have the main deck all planked and now glued in place still needs some clean up that will be all done real soon still need to do last part of the main deck at the bow let me what u all think
 
 

hello sjors and welcome to my dry dock   thank u for your kind words and yes it looks like iam on my way now comes the planking thats dont like me lol  this wear i go slow  there will be update real soon

That's a nice little one Draggz !
And you are on the right track.
I will looking over your shoulder to see what you are doing with her   
 
Sjors

here in the pic u see i have added head edges for the cabins to set ok there a 1x5 walnut thay sit up from the deck 0.2mm came out looking good 
 
 
 

ok in the pic u will see i have now planked the last half on the deck so far so good its comming along vary well so are some pic for ya
 
 

here in this pic u will i now have the main deck all planked and now glued in place still needs some clean up that will be all done real soon still need to do last part of the main deck at the bow let me what u all think
 
 

in this pic i have sanded the ribs for the planking it came out really good so far here some pic
 
 
 

ok i got bow bulkhead all sanded now still got the front to do but i will get there in time .next will to be to plank the main deck and put that on . so here are some pic for ya to see where iam at 
 
 

in the pic u will see .i have planked one of the lower decks it came real good .the parts to the kit are really good here  are some more pic for u all
 
 

hello all in the pic u will see i have glued all bulk heads in place thay need time to cure so far so good .there be more pic tommorw some time on with the show
 
 

here we go with i side build this looks like a vary fun build as jpett said to me try doing a side so i thot about it and here we are  .so i have look it all over so far it all good all parts are there here some pic of the kit
 
 
 

here in the pic u see i have added head edges for the cabins to set ok there a 1x5 walnut thay sit up from the deck 0.2mm came out looking good 
 
 
 

here in the pic u see i have added head edges for the cabins to set ok there a 1x5 walnut thay sit up from the deck 0.2mm came out looking good 
 
 
 

here in the pic u see i have added head edges for the cabins to set ok there a 1x5 walnut thay sit up from the deck 0.2mm came out looking good 
 
 
 

ok in the pic u will see i have now planked the last half on the deck so far so good its comming along vary well so are some pic for ya
 
 

Ahoy Mates
 
SRC: With all the carbon we are dumping the ice is beating me by miles 
 
Dragzz: No, The Ratt has always been my priority. The Vic is my mistress 
 
Russ; Thx again, I am hoping that I will be able to do something about the windows I cut out. The more I work on them the more I think I need to work on something else. My skills are just not up to it yet. I am getting there though
 
Micheal: Yes, activity is a good thing. I often wonder if sometimes too much is not the best thing for the grey stuff. 
 
Scott: Thank you, I would love to have that blue on my build but I just can't make it work like you did 
 
Popeye: I am sure the dinosaurs saw that space rock as just a little hiccup too. "LOL"  All kidding aside it really is just a big learning experience for me; which I really enjoy. Having a finished ship on my shelf does sound nice though. Maybe one day. 
 
Martin: Speaking of finished ship on his shelf. I am jealous. And now i find out you won the prize ship. Even more so. Good luck with that build. It really looks like a great kit. 
 
Back to the build 
 
HAPPY DAYS   :) :)
 
Well it really was an interesting journey doing these gunports. Full of happiness and despair.  Like an endless roller-coaster that has finally come to rest they have now been complete.  The starboard side  actually came out better and I did touch up the port although it does not look as good, it does looks good enough. At some point I really need to move forward and i think that time passed around Christmas of last year. This one really was a whopper 
 
As for anyone following this build I am posting what I learned in hopes it will save others from my folly. 
 
First and I believe this was already mentioned but it is important. The ports do not need to be exactly right when framed (just close and not larger then required); you can give yourself some room by using slightly wider wood then suggested in the plans. Once installed you can view them all together and then make adjustments either before or after planking. After being the harder of the two. The key for me was looking at them all as one facet of the ship. Fixating on one port only led me down the wrong path. 
 
There is a lot of discussion regarding the orientation of gunports. Where as there is, I am sure cases where the ports are not  square to the bulkheads I have found through considerable research they are not the majority. While some may look like this on the plans in most cases it is because the plans are 2D and we live in 3D. 
 
Yes it is not easy to get them to look right,  much easier to just tilt them a bit and this is your choice as you are the captain of your ship. Some are titled on my port side and the first one on the starboard too. Not because they should be but because that was the best i could do. I am however very happy with what I have achieved and think any further action will only lead to major repairs. 
 
When adjusting your ports I found it best to do them in groups never finishing one before all of them are at least 85% done. It is more important to get the orientation right first and then slowly expand them using a jig. I used one of the white metal lids included with the kit. To get them aligned I put my kit in the jig. Once in the magical jig i was able to mark my hull with reference lines which made cutting out the ports much easier. I did not just mark the ports but made lines to guide me while doing them. With the hull planked a mistake here would be hard to repair. My last window is actually slightly larger. That is where I learned to do them in groups and not one at a time.  I also learned not to do them in order but to skip around. Adjusting one between two that are right is much easier. 
 
In a nut shell: I found it was easier to get the ports correct in a smaller version and then scale them up using a jig. The key being to start small get the look you are happy with first. 
 
Next stop is deck planking. In usual JPett fashion we will be expanding this into a project. i put in some basswood so that I could cut into it to terminate the planking. I will be using paper for caulking. I am not sure if I will be trying any of those fancy planks on the gun deck. I might on the upper decks. 
 
 
First pic shows the Ratt in the jig 
 
Second shows reference lines, port jig and the order i used to do the ports 
 
Third show that in celebration we have cleaned the shipyard. 
 
Thanks for stopping by and comments as always are welcome 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Chuck,
 
Why wouldn't it be?  There are no "second-class" builds here and all are respected equally.

Ahoy Dragzz 
 
I will second Popeye. Clean and I will add "sharp".  
 
That deck looks great. Your progression here is amazing 
 
Looks like planking time is right around the corner