donrobinson

Thanks to all for stopping in, for your comments and for all the likes. Got a little more done in the last two days mainly the ship's stove is now installed complete with a stockpile of firewood and an axe. The pump was also made and installed, this is a little kit included with the package, I think it looks pretty good. It came with 3 mm copper strapping for the bands, however, I replaced that with some card stock
 

 
 Hope you enjoy, have a good evening

Thanks to all for stopping in, for your comments and for all the likes. Got a little more done in the last two days mainly the ship's stove is now installed complete with a stockpile of firewood and an axe. The pump was also made and installed, this is a little kit included with the package, I think it looks pretty good. It came with 3 mm copper strapping for the bands, however, I replaced that with some card stock
 

 
 Hope you enjoy, have a good evening

Thanks EJ, coming up is the ship's boat that I have put off way too long now and I am running out of things to do so I'll have to bite the bullet and start on it.

Thanks Steve, great of you stopping by

Zoltan: Thanks for the compliment and for stopping in
 
Mike: Thanks, just wish the real firewood was that easy to cut and split

Out in garage, cutting some spare hatch covers. I had a thought of maybe painting the hatch covers so I thought making some practice ones would be a good idea.

 
Covers and hatch got a total of six coats of spray on satin varathane


 
To attach the rope handles to the hatch covers I decided to use zip siezings. The rope I am using for the handles is .025 in. or .633 mm from Syren. The zip siezings are 1.3 mm i.d. and 1.77 mm o.d. and approx. 1.5 mm long

 
First step is to thread two siezings onto the line, after stiffening the end of the line with ca then cutting the end at an angle

 
Then run rope through the bottom and back down from the top. Then insert the end of the line though the two siezings

 
Flatten one side of an appropriate size of dowel to the proper height, in this case 3 mm, and adjust the rope around it.

 
When adjusted properly turn it over, glue and cut the ends off. In the macro picture it looks kind of bulky but in reality it looks good.

 
Finally here is how they look. Now 19 more to go

 
Have a Good Night

Good Morning All, Thanks to everyone for stopping in, for your likes and comments. This a new one for me, two updates in a week, but without my vehicle(another story) shipyard time has increased. I have completed the back rails which I will show in my next post as they aren't attached yet and will complete the breast hooks today as Mike is on edge waiting to see them. For now I have nailed the companion way and made some cleats from rosewood.
 

Here I am showing how I mask it to try and get a relatively straight line.
 

Here are a couple of shots showing holes drilled and nails in place. I used .4 mm nylon fishing line. First side I cut these off using flush cutters then sanded smooth, this side I used a sharp blade to cut off then sanded. The blade worked much better and very little sanding was required, just enough to remove excess glue. Should be noted the companion way had several coats of poly on it to prevent any stains from the ca glue.
 

 Here are the results, I think the .4 mm fishing line is the right scale and looks good. With a little more practice I may do a deck someday. I also found some light brown .3 mm fishing line that I may do a test section on my Pegasus with. 
 

Here I'm just showing the steps of making cleats. As you can see they are fairly large about 10 mm so they were fairly easy to make, that's one of the beauties of working at this scale.  The first one is after rough shaping on the Byrnes disc sander and the middle one is after some fine tuning with riffler file the cleat on the right is the kit supplied one. I would not normally spend twenty minutes making a cleat but I only need two so I thought what the heck. As you can see I have two extra ones that I am willing to offer to members here before I list them on ebay 
 

Here I'm rough shaping it on the disc sander.The thing off to the right in the picture is a crepe block used to clean the sanding disc, this helps prolong the life of your disc or belt if you have a thickness sander. You can get these at Lee Valley they are cheap and last forever.
 Thanks once more for stopping in and have a good one.
 

Thanks to all for stopping in, for your comments and for all the likes. Got a little more done in the last two days mainly the ship's stove is now installed complete with a stockpile of firewood and an axe. The pump was also made and installed, this is a little kit included with the package, I think it looks pretty good. It came with 3 mm copper strapping for the bands, however, I replaced that with some card stock
 

 
 Hope you enjoy, have a good evening

Thanks Steve, great of you stopping by

Hi John, you must have slipped in when I was typing. Thanks for coming by. They really are good kits and at this scale it is  fun to add and change a few things. The boxes are not the normal flashy and colourful, but when you open the box and see the contents you soon forget about the box lid. Another good thing about the MarisStella colour scheme is that carrying one of these boxes into the house will not catch the Admiral's eye near as much!! 

Frank: Thanks so much for stopping in, really good to hear from you again. How is the Red Dragon coming along?
 
Zoran: Hello, Thanks for the compliment, much appreciated
 
Doug: Thanks, it was a hot day here yesterday. In the pictures clouds had just started rolling in and a short time later we had a pretty good rain storm. The rain was much needed as the mosquitoes were starting to suffer
 
Mike: Hey, how are things with you? Thanks for dropping in

Zoltan: Thanks for the compliment and for stopping in
 
Mike: Thanks, just wish the real firewood was that easy to cut and split

Looking at the AOTS it seems they should about 15" apart which would be approximately 8 mm at this scale. Nice work Steve, I like your little drawing it is amazing how we can tie hundreds of these knots then all of a sudden the mind goes blank and you forget

Looking at the AOTS it seems they should about 15" apart which would be approximately 8 mm at this scale. Nice work Steve, I like your little drawing it is amazing how we can tie hundreds of these knots then all of a sudden the mind goes blank and you forget

Thanks Mike, when she is done the deck won't be so empty, there are so many things that are not on other ships I have seen. Is that tug floating yet?
Ian: Thanks I am busy now serving shrouds with my new Domanoff serving machine, what a purchase! It is a fantastic machine, runs so smooth and with the attachments you can even do seizing with it. Way too much fun, I'm actually just stalling from building the ship's boat.

Dave, Len, Elijah and Bob Thanks guys I really appreciate you guys stopping in and leaving your great comments.
Mike: "laundry and dishes" sounds much better,at that time of day, than vodka and orange!!

Zoltan: Thanks for the compliment and for stopping in
 
Mike: Thanks, just wish the real firewood was that easy to cut and split

Very impressive EJ, you are doing a sweet job. It's a satisfying feeling knowing the end is near, keep the updates coming 

Looks real nice Jack, that is a damn shame losing the rest of your build pictures

Very impressive EJ, you are doing a sweet job. It's a satisfying feeling knowing the end is near, keep the updates coming 

Here is a picture of my plans showing the bow. The hole marked 38 is showing the location of the incoming hole in the deck from the hawse hole(joined with a pipe), the other two holes are on the backside of the windlass(not shown) for the ropes to be fed into storage space below. Port side of plan is showing other details that hide the hole location in this overhead view. Your plan does not show these two extra holes but it may have just been an oversight. I have edited and added a second photo of my plans. The hawse hole(42.4) is located below the wale which is at deck level, in my case I moved the decoration over and drilled the hole above the wale. How the plan shows it is correct and would be correct in real life but in scale feeding the anchor rope from the outside then through the deck would be very difficult, I took the easy route.
 Just a thought.

I am not saying this is the case for your schooner, but on my Trabaccolo the hawse hole is also situated below deck level according to the plans. I moved mine higher to be above deck level, however, after some research I found that the hole was located properly on the plans but drilled at an extreme angle to go though the  deck then (in real life) lined with a lead pipe to help drain any water. Raising the position will be much easier and also save putting another hole in the deck

Thanks to all for stopping in, for your comments and for all the likes. Got a little more done in the last two days mainly the ship's stove is now installed complete with a stockpile of firewood and an axe. The pump was also made and installed, this is a little kit included with the package, I think it looks pretty good. It came with 3 mm copper strapping for the bands, however, I replaced that with some card stock
 

 
 Hope you enjoy, have a good evening

Very impressive EJ, you are doing a sweet job. It's a satisfying feeling knowing the end is near, keep the updates coming 

Thanks Steve, great of you stopping by