Ferit

And me too, I will learn something new with you step by step... 

Could I reserve a seat aside the table? A good, well lit place overlooking all handicrafts especially decorations...

Thank you all  ,
 
Next thing to do is answering everyone 
 
@ Randy,
 
I don't want the credits for something I have not done….
For the rest of the furniture….a BIG thanks ! 
 
@ Ferit,
 
Please keep asking and don't apologise for that !
Better one question to many then not a question at all.
For me ,I know that you are looking carefully to the pictures.
I like that !
When you ask me about the knight head I was running upstairs to take a look.
Yippie, he is standing all right.
It's the picture that shows you no neck.
The shadow is playing with us…….
 
@ Mick,
 
It's all available in the kit…..
I play ,but not with that 
I know what you mean.
All the kits are different.
Some leave something and an other manufacturer put something extra in it.
It depends on which one makes the kit.
Then what about the OcCre club.
I didn't know about it at all till I want to have the San Ildefonso.
By the help of Gaz-666 ( Ricardo ) who help me to get this kit.
Also on the site from OcCre I can found anything.
Maybe it's only for people who are from Spain?
If you want to join that club, maybe you can send an E-Mail to OcCre?
When you take a look at the Montanes, it's almost the same ship.
There are a few difference, but not much.
And then I'm speaking about little things.
You want to give that also a try?
The San Ildefonso or the Montanes?
 
@ Popeye,
 
Thank you very much my friend !
The progress continue with the little one.
It's almost a build of his own 
Two for the price of one…..
 

I wouldn't worry too much about missing updates.... If what Augie says holds true, he's bound to deconstruct a bit more before he ever gets finished.... I think it's something psychological... He's afraid of not having a ship to work on... (Since he claims his next build won't start until the fall)
 

 
Andy

The essential is that not to be like:
The first half of the life of a man is passing with the dreams of what he want to realize in future and the second half with the regrets of what he didn't... ( That describes my life )

Hi Ferit
 
Your rigging is crisp, perfect and precise like the rest of your beautiful build.  In this hobby, you are a grand master indeed!

I'll go along with this.  He has that 'certain something'.  The there's the rest of us.......

I think there is something special about Ferit! I think Ferit could use dental floss and his rigging would still look amazing!

She is improving really in beauty...
You had jumped into the scratch... you're about fully get in...

The essential is that not to be like:
The first half of the life of a man is passing with the dreams of what he want to realize in future and the second half with the regrets of what he didn't... ( That describes my life )

I had missed your update Augie, your last wow on the anchors, the buoys...
Show is going on... I wish I have your talents...

I had missed your update Augie, your last wow on the anchors, the buoys...
Show is going on... I wish I have your talents...

Just a quick update.
 
The anchors and anchor buoys are rigged and ready to mount on board. 
 

 
The buoys will be hung from the shrouds and some fiddly work needs to be done around the catheads.  Then there are rope coils to be deployed,  some finishing touches and.........and.........
 
Oh yeah ----- the case !!

Hi Randy, Hi Ian,
I am honored by your kind words boosting my ardor...

The port side...

Thank you Michael for your kindness...
Yes, I use G-S Hypo in all rigging works, especially in spirals (I don't know the correct word).

4 / 5 of deadeyes...

Thanks Matti, encouraging comments from a true master such as you is always inspiring!
 
Since I replaced the metal gun port lids that came with the kit, I decided to replace the metal doors as well.
 
To make a door, I stuck pieces of left over deck planking on electrical insulation tape to form a base and give the door some depth.  I cut left over mahogany veneer in 1mm strips to simulate door planks and glued it on the deck planking base (Luckily I kept every bit of scrap veneer when I lined the bulkheads that the doors are positioned in – I do not have a lot of spare pieces).  After cutting out the door, I placed a metal door from the kit on the cut-out and filed the whole door flush with the metal piece.  (The electrical tape is flexible and keeps the whole assembly nicely together during the shaping process – I only pull it off right at the end when a door is finished.)  The final step is to make hinges and a door handle from copper wire, then blacken it and sticking it on the door.
 

 
Homemade vs kit-supplied
 

 
The doors are located on bulkheads that are planked clinker style.  Due to the overlapping planks, it looks odd if you follow the kit instructions and merely stick the door onto the bulkhead, since you can see in behind the door when looking at the door from the side.  To get a more realistic look, I rather made a hole for each door in the bulkhead.
 


 
Bowsprit door
 


 
 

The port side...

4 / 5 of deadeyes...

Thanks Andy and Mark - so I have not yet given up on the bulwark decorations, but I have put them on pause for a bit...To pass the time while turning my mind around my latest approach to that problem, I've decided to make the rudder and the cannons - it's fortunate that with projects like this there's always something else to do while you're figuring other stuff out!
 
I made the rudder three times. The first was out of 4mm x 4mm beach that I had left over from another build. This didn't work out - I messed up carving out the slots for the pintles and gudgeons. The second was from 3mm x 3mm lime, planked with .5mm lime. This didn't work because the shape was off. The last one was from the same material as number two, but I used a template to get the correct shape and it worked out quite well. Finished in white, Golden Oak and Red.
 
For the Pintles and Gudgeons, I abandoned the metal parts supplied in the kit and used 1/16 x 1/64" brass strip, blackened. I had thought of installing bolts, but at this scale and with only a pin vice to work with I decided against it. I did add ring bolts for the rudder chains.
 
No photos of the cannons yet - I'll save that for another post later....In the meantime, here's the rudder....Bye for now - hope you're all enjoying the weekend.
hamilton
 

 

 

 

 

Hi Greg,
 
I had a thought about replacing all the blocks with Chucks fantastic blocks but despite being reasonably priced they would have worked out around a ¼ of the price of the kit.  I will order some of the 2mm blocks for doing the cannons and to cover any that I am short from the kit since I redid another 4 for the deck and a couple exploded under pressure from the tweezers. LOL
 
Okay, I redid the 4 deck blocks so the hole orientation was correct and also tweeked one of the tiller handle blocks as it twisted the line.  The eyebolts on the deck were also replaced as they were either a bit off or didn’t let the block hook move freely.
 
I couldn’t work out either from the plans or from the AOTS how the tiller blocks were attached so made up a ring from 0.5mm brass and placed it in a hole already there in the photo etch tiller handle and hooked the blocks in to this.
 
To help thread the rope through the block holes I touched the end with CA glue to stiffen it up then it was a case of threading the rope through the holes with tweezers.
 
To tie off the end of the rope I made a false splice and a touch of CA glue to secure it and then trimmed off the tail with a razor blade.
 



 
 
Cheers
Slog

Hi Guys,
 
Thanks for the nice words and encouragement.  Mick the Caldercraft instructions or plans (can’t remember which) actually say the correct colour for the anti-fouling is brown but their prototype on their web site and the box picture show white.  In this case I went with the Captains prerogative as I think the white looks good especially with the other colours.
 
I have only seen one Endeavour with the brown hull (Lilees) which looks good also.  I agree about coppering, I hope to do a ship with a coppered hull at some stage.
 
Continuing on for the tiller steering gear. 
Anyone familiar with the Endeavour knows that the steering rope runs from the steering wheel assembly across the deck through blocks to the tiller handle.  The plans say to use 3mm blocks (smallest they supply) and 0.25mm beige thread. The blocks aren’t too bad for kit supplied ones so used them straight with no further work.
 
Other than the plans there is no description and I couldn't tell how the blocks are secured to the deck eye bolts.  They appeared to be tied down with rope.  There is no way I could do that so needed some other idea.
 
I had a look at the AOTS and the blocks have iron straps round them with hooks on the end so that would be the easiest way to do them.  I tried bending my own hooks from 0.5mm brass rod and although they looked good I couldn’t get them smaller than the supplied copper eye bolts so just used them with the eyes pulled open.

 
 
I drilled a hole in the end of the block to accept the tail of the hook.  I stuck a bit through the sheave hole so I could trim the tail to length.  To simulate the strap I used 0.5mm black thread glued round the block with CA glue.  It was a bit fiddly and after trying a few different methods got a system going.


 
 
Once the thread was glued all the way round I used the drill again to drill through the thread into the previously drilled hole and glued the hook in with CA glue.  The finished blocks look a bit rough with the macro but at normal viewing don’t look too bad.  
 
Just a note about orientation of the sheave hole in the blocks.
I only noticed whilst looking at the photos to write this I have 6 of the 8 blocks wrong.  I know that the rope runs through the block depending on what side it is pulling against and for some reason I worked out that the 6 deck blocks should run through the hole furthest from the hook and the 2 tiller blocks should be closest to the hook.(2 hooks on the right of the picture)  In actual fact all the holes should be closest to the hook for correct operation.  Only the 2 blocks set aside for the tiller are correct. 
 
I thought I was being smart and making sure the orientation was right and messed up  .  I will redo the 4 deck blocks so the hole is the right way round but will leave the 2 at the steering wheel assembly as they are because I already fixed them in place and are too hard to get to now.

 
 
I cut and sanded the steering wheel assembly supports so the assembly sits vertical on the sloping deck.  I cut a 500mm length of the 0.25 rigging thread and brushed on a 50/50 mix of PVA and water and wiped off the excess and then suspended a clamp on the end to pull it straight.
 
When it was dry I wrapped it round the barrel of the steering wheel assembly.  The plans show it wrapped around the full length of the barrel but the AOTS specifically says it is wrapped 5 times so I did that.  I then used a needle to coat the unseen underside with CA glue to hold the wrapped thread in place against each other.
 
I then glued the assembly to the deck with CA glue and hung the excess threads over the side with clothes pegs so I could fit the blocks to the deck.


 
 
Hopefully tomorrow I will get time to redo the 4 blocks and finish the steering set up.
 
Cheers
Slog

Ferit,
 
The replacement window molding is a big improvement on the original. Well worth doing. Very nice.

I must say, honestly, that you are extremely talented builder, you take your time with the details and your work is top-notch. It is a pleasure to watch and learn from your build...