Ferit

4 / 5 of deadeyes...

After I had completed the rail,I wanted to fit the one below.However I thought it may be prudent to produce and fit the vertical carvings first.Each one would need to be scribed to the hull individually as the hull is concave but changes as you move along the ship.To this end I have started on the vertical carvings.I have included as much detail as I feel practical at this scale,faithful to the works of VdeV.
Kind Regards Nigel

4 / 5 of deadeyes...

4 / 5 of deadeyes...

Beautiful work, your alignment looks perfect, the rope work looks fantastic as well, very authentic. Any secrets?

Very, very nice.
 
By the way, 25 years ago my HMS Victory cross section came with all one color, light tan line for both running and standing rigging.  I used it and am happy to report that is has darkened uniformly and looks very nice as of this day.  Of course yours is of a much higher calibre installation and is just going to look great.
 
Carry on, Mate.

4 / 5 of deadeyes...

Here's another experiment with image stacking same procedure as above
 
 

 
Best,
Michiel

What impress me in a model ship are transom and detailed cannon work...
I envy you the work you have shown to simulate cannons...

Looks Great Matti...
Please let me know what was the aim of the message port in real life.

Yay, finally I could do some work today. I glued the top wale/list. Also cut out one of the small windows from kajutan, and the rearest smaller gunport, and also my favourite: the message port located near the waterline. This is done on both sides. 
 
 
Sorry for the smoke in the pic, but its barbecue time.
 
 
/Matti

Hi Jason,
Nice, precise, clean as usual...
"If anyone has any other suggested improvements would love to hear them." My suggestion after this sentence (my apologizes):
If you decided to leave the elevation screw brass coloured, should mellow a little with age; may the area which is out of the working section of the screw through the carronade be more darker because these bottom and top areas remain unrubbed?

...

Thanks Mark!
 
Since the last update I've made only a little bit of progress - even though I'm technically on "vacation" the last week and a half has been very busy at work, and the summer has finally kicked in out here in the Pacific Northwest....it doesn't last too long so it's important to take advantage!
 
Anyway, I've now finished up the following little things:
 
1. Catheads, knightheads, timberheads & fish davit cleats - pretty straightforward and not much to note here - timberheads arrayed at bows and along the quarterdeck rail.
 

 

 

 
2. Fenders and ladders outboard - I've had to deviate slightly from the Blandford plans here, since (once again) Corel's kit design does not allow the positioning of these exactly where Goodwin has them....In Goodwin, the outboard ladders are just aft of gun port 6, but I've had to be put just in front of this mark. Because of this I also had to reposition the double fenders which in Goodwin are just forward of gun port 6 - I've placed them rather absurdly just aft of gun port 4....anyway....
 
3. Outboard rigging details - drilled a bunch of holes (for the bowsprit, for the rudder, for a couple of sheave blocks); added a number of ringbolts for the standing ends of sheets, tacks, bowsprit shrouds, main course braces, jibstay tackle....); also the pump dale scupper at midships in the filling strake - a small yet significant detail!
 

 

 
4. The aft hatches and capstan platform - these took a bit of finagling to get to fit (lots of little swipes of the sanding block) but eventually they went in snugly.
 

 
That's it. Only a few photos - but they show all that there is to show - enjoy and take care all
hamilton

Opposed thumbs.     
 
Actually, I have large, clumsy hands.  But I have become pretty good working with 2 pair of forceps.  Just call me Augie Tweezerhands.

Only one step backward.  Heck, I can go back at least 3 at a time!  

Get well soon Matti... Don't undervalue pneumonia... You must take care of yourself...

Here are the pics

Ferit, your work is masterful as always. I can't wait to see more of your rigging.

Worked on some final tuning of the cannon, unfortunately it took me pretty much an entire evening to do a couple of 'small' things, adding the chains for the cotter pin, and the hinge for the cap square.  I cut each chain to length after having blackened it and attached some Caldercraft 2mm photo etch eyebolts at each end, drilled in the appropriate place and attached.  The hinge was made from wire bent to shape into two pre-drilled holes.  Think this looks much better than the suggested flat head pins to secure the cap square per the instructions.  Thanks once again to B.E. for the pointers.  Must confess I was very happy with the result and some useful skills learned, even though there were many frustrating moments. 
 
I still have the flintlock to install but I'll do that once everything is in place and rigged.
 

...

Hi Randy
 
I used my AL instructions a long time ago to light a barbeque fire... it's far better to follow your build and see how things SHOULD be done.  Keep it up!

Update of my progress over the weekend...
 
Glued the stem and cutwater to the false keel (I had to sand quite a bit of the parts away to get rid of the charring left by the laser cut.)
 
I measured the required “overhang” of the keel plank at the stern and cut it off at a 30 degree angle as instructed.  I should not have done that.  I should have measured the angle of the rudder’s corner that will be adjacent to the keel’s protruding point once the rudder is mounted. I will now have to file the rudder’s corner a bit so that it fits snugly against the keel when it is mounted. 
 
I knew that clamping the keel plank during the gluing process would be a challenge (the keel plank that came with my kit is as crooked as a banana!)  To solve the problem I drilled three 0.8mm holes in the keel and glued pieces of wire into them.  Once dried, I trimmed the wires leaving about 4mm sticking out. 
 

 
Then I marked and drilled 0.8mm holes in the false keel for the wires to fit into.  This allowed my keel plank to fit snugly into the proper position (I almost couldn’t get the keel plank loose again after I tested the fit… so I naturally drank 3 beers to calm my nerves before I tried again.  Or that’s what I told the Admiral at least...)
 


 
Finally, I glued the keel plank to the false keel.  I used electrical insulation tape to hold the keel plank down while the glue dried.  Unlike masking tape, the insulation tape sticks quite well to wood - but still pulls off very easily without leaving any sticky residue or marks. 
 

 

...

Thank you all, your comments are appreciated.
 
Several more pictures on the last week progress. Lower deck is now fully framed and I started working on the waterway and the planking above it.