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CDW

NRG Member
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Everything posted by CDW

  1. A main feature of the model will be the engine. As such, I bought a 3D printed resin blown hemi for it.
  2. Look how much had to come off the front of that funny car chassis to match up with the AA/Fuel Altered dragster wheelbase! 😄 With a machine with this much horsepower (around 1500 HP), running down the quarter mile in six seconds, that short wheelbase would be certain to cause a lot of pucker power. A wild ride is putting it mildly.
  3. Plastic spoons are our friends. They make a great test bed for paint trials. I have a couple of bottles of the black AK primer but have never opened them up and tested them. Frankly, I didn't realize they are enamel until after I bought them. Being enamel, they have limited utility right off the bat. Poor drying/curing problems are a nail in the coffin. But these metallic powders need a little tackiness to work. Even the Uschi powders didn't work well for me over lacquer.
  4. Next, I want to try the pigment powders over enamel paint, like say for instance, AK gloss black. The stuff you use as a base coat for their chrome paint. The UV gel is thick and will obliterate fine detail under it. Maybe there is a reducer for UV gel? I’ll have to check into that as well.
  5. I think this could have looked even better if I had used a black UV base gel first instead of clear. Even still, it looks great this way.
  6. I stumbled upon a new "chrome plated" finishing method for our models. It involves items your wife may already have at home for nail care. I ordered all the items you see here from Amazon for around $35. You'll need a UV light, Finishing gel, and a chrome pigment powder. You'll apply a coat of the finishing gel on the item to be chrome plated, then apply the UV light for 60 seconds. Last, you'll use foam tipped makeup applicator to apply a small amount of the chrome pigment to the part. Use a soft paint brush to lightly dust off any excess pigment and "shazaam!", you've got the brightest, shiniest chrome you've ever seen. Darned near perfect. Very very easy to do. We'll just have to see how well it holds up over time but seeing as how it's for nails, it's likely to be very durable. This small amout of product will do a LOT of small chrome model parts. I have doubts about doing large parts but will test that at some time in the future. For the chrome parts for this model, it's perfect so far.
  7. Airfix brand new tool. I don’t believe there has been another 48th scale Gannet aside from Classic Aiframes and the Dynavector one from decades ago.
  8. I'll likely tackle it right out of the box. Let's look at all the parts, first, then decide. It arrived in a much larger box than I expected. Have not opened it yet but will tonight.
  9. Once upon a time there was an American aftermarket company that produced and sold model car tires. This is a set of fatties I had stashed away for a special occasion.
  10. The pieces I’ve cut off the rear of the chassis were part of the body mounts for the funny car, and won’t be needed for this model. In fact, they interfere. With the body sitting on top of the chassis, it gives an idea of the location where a portion of the front of the chassis needs to be removed so the front axle is slightly ahead of the front of the body. I’ll attach both front and rear axles and the wheels to make a definitive location for the cut.
  11. There is so much cleanup to do on the parting lines of these tubular chassis. Maybe 80% is taken care of now. Will get the rest after glue joints set up. I need to look and see where adjustments and alterations need to take place to make this a reasonable reproduction of the real thing. Wheel base is a little long I know. Roll cage may need to be shortened as well as adjustments for the wheelie bars.
  12. This will be a kit bash custom build of Mike Sullivan's Fiat AA/Fuel Altered dragster. The major portion of the component pieces for this build will come from the old Revell Gene Snow Vega Funny Car, a Competition Resins Fiat body, and Slixx Decals to match Mike Sullivan's machine. A photo of the donated pieces for the build: A YouTube video of the machine in action Some photos of the actual car that I will try to duplicate (as close as I consider "reasonable") in this model.
  13. 🤣I guess I got a little carried away with the Mop and Glow. The whole thing needs a dull coat
  14. So, I rented some warehouse space over on the south end of town, on the other side of the railroad tracks. Got my hot rods stored there with some good locks and chains on the doors. Rent is cheap ‘cause the place needs a little work. 😊
  15. Here’s what I’m attempting… drawing scale brick mortar lines with a white gel pen. Then, painting a light gray color around the brick simulation to give an appearance of plaster that’s chipped away and fallen off over time, exposing the red brick. I intend to draw in the brick in various places and odd intervals then expose those areas in the same way.
  16. Nice start! How did you like the feel of the airbrush? Single or double action, gravity feed or siphon?
  17. A couple of days ago, I ordered some sheets of corrugated plastic. Depending on the color of the model, different background colors seem to have positive or negative impact on the photo quality that are obvious. I am going to experiment with the plastic panels to see what might make the best all-around color for any model being photographed. Keep in mind, the colors you see on what I've done so far are only a starting point. It takes a while for that gel medium to cure so I must wait to take this project further. Thanks for the suggestion, Andy. Keep the ideas coming.
  18. It’s a start. A lot more space to work with here. Will be adding details next.
  19. I used some sheet foam and cut a 12 x 14 inch piece for the floor. Mixed Vallejo pale gray with acrylic gel for texture then gave the floor a “broom finish” with a stiff flat paint brush. I’ll use a similar technique for the walls with dark red mixed in acrylic gel, then use a scratch built tool to strike the mortar lines for the brick treatment.
  20. Great body style, when car brands had their own distinctive look, unlike today when they almost all look the same.
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