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CDW
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Jaguar XK-E by CDW - Gunze Sangyo High Tech Model - 1:24 Scale
CDW replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Here is an off-topic kit I will start in the ship building section soon. Been an awful long time since Testors did a hydroplane kit. Been looking forward to this. Limited production and quantities. Search “Griggs Department Store” in Washington State if you want to acquire one. It’s the only source I could find for the kit.
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Thanks Mike
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Jaguar XK-E by CDW - Gunze Sangyo High Tech Model - 1:24 Scale
CDW replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Replicating, or at least a reasonable facsimile of the tube chassis would be nice. The kit needs some improvement but it's a good base for added detail. This is where 3D resin design and printing skills would be amazing.
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Jaguar XK-E by CDW - Gunze Sangyo High Tech Model - 1:24 Scale
CDW replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I had this model in a saved search as I have been looking for one over a year. Not easy to find and expensive when you do. I waited until I found one at a price I was willing to pay. The all plastic versions are easy to find and not too expensive and the version without an engine is not as hard to come by either. In all, Gunze produced three versions of this kit, Double that (6 kits) if you include the hardtop version. -
I rescued this partially built Jaguar XK-E from EBay. The body had been painted (not very well). The first thing after I received it, I gave the body a three day bath in Super Clean degreaser to strip off the old paint. It came out of the bath clean as a whistle. Here is the partially assembled and painted cast metal engine. I will disassemble and strip it of paint as well. The rubber parts and partially assembled wire wheels. The plastic parts A plethora of white metal, photo etch, and various multimedia parts. Kit appears to be complete at first examination. Cleanup and construction to begin soon.
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Thanks Rob. Yes, there was no paint used on the body, only decals. I did sand the mold lines off the body then polished the plastic with finer grades of sanding cloths but the color is the natural molded plastic. I read that in years past, colored plastic was formulated using ink to achieve the color of the plastic. This modern formula uses pigment to achieve the color. There is a visible difference in the plastic from that of years gone by.
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Having started this kit on Saturday, July 13, and finished this morning, July 19, I estimate that a total of 20 hours were spent assembling the kit and applying the decals. The plan from the start was to do a very basic assembly with little to nothing spent to detail the model, either in extra time or accessories to detail it. I just wanted to see how it went together and observe for myself what and where are the areas that needed improvement, modifications, and/or to recognize areas where super detailing could be done on future builds to bring the kits in this series up to a high level. I am happy to say I am more than thrilled with the potential in this series. Everything is there in this basic kit platform for an excellent NASCAR model. Thanks to all of you for following along, for all your likes and comments. That's it, the show is over, the monkey is dead. See you again soon!
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About 80% complete with the decal work. The worst is done, and 20% remaining are smaller less difficult pieces.
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If I remember correctly, the jack stands cost $2.49 for 4 of them.
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Here's wishing you a speedy and complete recovery, Gary.
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While the decals are of excellent quality, the body has compound curves that make perfect decal placement a slow and careful proposition. For an experienced modeler it’s not an impossible task but for a beginner it’s a bridge too far in my opinion. I spent over an hour just working these two large decals, slowly and delicately brushing them down with Tamiya Mark Fit and Mark Fit Strong decal solutions. Haste makes waste. Slow and careful wins the race. I have yet to trim around the wheel wells as the decals are not yet dry. I estimate the decals will require 8 to 10 hours to place in a favorable way.
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The Jack stands are from another vendor who sells 3D resin printed accessories. MCV Products. I included a photo os some of the items I bought from them. Prices are very reasonable. So much so, it makes me more inclined to buy what I want rather than try to make this stuff myself. The photo shows a complete rear tub and differential setup for a drag car, a quick release harness system. The tub sells for $20 and the harness kit $4.99.
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These will be the last photos I take of this model with the top off the chassis. It's clear to see the enormous potential for the model to get high detail with this basic platform. My intention is to permanently attach the body to the chassis, with this one, but future, high detailed versions will be left with removable body shells to reveal all the detail that's inside.
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Engine, headers, front chassis, brakes, with this basic assembly, it's easy to see the model's potential for super detailing. Light-years ahead of the old school NASCAR kits from Monogram in years gone by. Their formula for the plastic the kit is made from is very good. The plastic performs extremely well using Tamiya thin glue. It's a different type of plastic than I have seen before now. Hard for me to describe except to say, it's "different". I did do a little detail painting on the engine. Nothing overboard, just little touches here and there to make it look more interesting and not completely stock out of the box. Engine component parts were molded in a silver-colored plastic. In the future, I will do some detailed versions of these NASCAR kits. My goal here is to see how it goes together, how well or poorly it fits, what things need attention and to generally get the feel for construction of the model. Keep in mind, all contemporary NASCAR vehicles are template built to NASCAR specs. Except for the livery and slightly different bodies, they will all look alike on the inside, differences being only skin deep.
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The decals are Cartograph. High quality for sure. An extensive decal placement sheet guide is included.
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Indeed it is. And a stunning beauty as well. If I remember correctly, this thing gave the kings of the hill, Ferrari, fits back in the day. It's every bit as good or better looking than the Ferrari 250 GTO's IMO.
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A newcomer to the model car manufacturing scene is Salvino'sJR. Their initial offerings are a big series of contemporary NASCAR racers in 1:24 scale. Being approached by NASCAR to produce modern race car model kits that could be sold to fans who attend the races, they wanted the company to gear the models to attract those who may not have extensive experience in building models. As a consequence, Salvinos mold their kits in the basic colors of the 1:1 cars then provide extensive decal sheets that feature all the wonderful colors and graphics of the livery fans see at the race track. No painting is required except for small details the builder may want to add to dress things up a bit but would still look entirely presentable without any painting at all. For the most part, I will only add small painted details here and there and build the model as it was intended, for an average modeler with little to no previous experience. I don't intend to take a lot of photos throughout this build, but instead will photograph major component assemblies as they are completed, then final photos. Here, you see the chassis pan, the roll bar, rear bulkhead, rear sub frame and fuel tank. I only painted the red items as shown. As the title says, this is the 2023 Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 #24, the Raptor, driven by William Byron.
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Looking forward to this. What a beauty, and you are 100% correct in what you said in another thread...the cost of a 1:12 Tamiya formula 1 kit with all the detail sets to trick it out are equal to and most likely exceed the cost of a great 1:12 MFH kit like this one. Besides that, no one else I know of even produces a 1:12 scale kit of the Cobra Daytona Coupe. My hesitation on MFH kits is primarily due to my lack of experience working with the white metal parts. A total unknown for me, and it will be great seeing how you deal with it here.
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It turned out that I had some of it on hand. Looks like it gave old Ed Roth a bit of a suntan.
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Thanks for the tip, OC!
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With the basic colors brushed on, a clear coat seals it all in. Next, I'll do some more details, then a wash. If some of the experienced figure painters here have some tips and tricks to share with me, I'm all ears and will value your advice. PS: the first photo I took at a normal setting (auto), the second was done on macro setting. I wanted to see the difference. Looks like the macro captures the light a bit better. I have no clue why.
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She's a beauty! Particularly with the sunlight glistening in her hair (proverbial hair).
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I'm a newb when it comes to painting figures. Don't expect miracles, please. 😁
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Elvira and her friends will be posed alongside of this dragster when they are finished and on display. She will be joined at times by Ed Roth and Rat Fink. I started painting Ed Roth and Rat Fink by beginning with a base coat of black acrylic, then a light shading of white, sprayed directly from the top to create shadow effects. Color paints are acrylic and being applied as a glaze by reducing the paints with water and applying multiple brushed-on coats so as to take advantage of the shadow shading from the initial primers. In progress.
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