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CDW

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Everything posted by CDW

  1. Only the adhesive on the foil. It’s not easy to move at all. I suppose too much handling along the edges could cause it to lift but if it’s burnished down well, that chance is minimized as well.
  2. All the chrome foil work is done...finally. Will move to wrap this little project up over the next few days.
  3. It's particularly useful when you are trying to do careful trimming of a silver object. A silver blade against a silver object is very hard to see. Simply blacken the blade tip with a sharpie marker and you'll see the blade 100% better. Works like magic.
  4. It's really not all that difficult if the right tools are used and you take your time doing it. A new, sharp #11 surgical scalpel is a must, along with some quality, pointed cotton swabs (Tamiya variety). I blacken the tip of my scalpel blade so I can clearly see it as it's carefully and lightly drawn against the edge of the chrome trim. It's certainly not one of my favorite parts of car modeling but nothing else takes its place.
  5. Took a few minutes this morning assembling and soldering together the photo etch windshield wipers from Aber. Earlier in the build, I cut off the molded on, horrible looking wipers that were part of the car body. These aftermarket units should give a more realistic appearance once they are painted and installed on the model.
  6. In the summer of 1970, I went with my dad to Florence, SC. There was a dental clinic there that pulled all your teeth and made you a set of false teeth all in the same day. I figured dad would need me to drive home after that trauma. While waiting for him to get finished up in the clinic, I walked through downtown Florence and saw a record shop. It was there I bought the first cut Black Sabbath and Credence Clearwater Revival albums. Turned out my dad was such a tough old bird, he drove the whole way back to our home in Florida after going through all that torture the whole day. He never once complained and wouldn't accept any help with the driving. But let me tell you, when he heard me playing those albums after we got home, he came unglued...told me to TURN THAT CRAP OFF! Lol...It must have been a shock for him to hear something like War Pig.
  7. I needed a hard edge around the wheel opening to help me guide my blade as I cut the bare metal foil. For this I used a 1mm strip of masking tape around the wheel opening, then laid my bare metal foil against the tape before following the outline of the tape to cut the foil. There's the rocker panel chrome on the passenger side of the body, three wheel opening trims, and last, the chrome strip down the center of the hood to complete the chrome trim pieces.
  8. It’s very tedious. Certainly not a favorite thing to do. If the body molding is sharp, it’s a lot easier. Soft molding can be a nightmare. The areas I have the most concern about are surrounding the wheel openings. I have a plan of attack but it’s one I’ve never tried before now. We’ll have to wait to see how well it works.
  9. The bare metal foil treatment on the driver's side windows will be repeated on the other three window frames, the trim areas surrounding the wheels, one strip down the center of the hood, and the rocker panels.
  10. Some of the final steps to completion will be the application of bare metal foil for all the chrome trim on the body. A lot of dry fitting is needed before the foil work as the body to frame will need to be cemented into place.
  11. Looks great Kevin! Intimidating with all those parts. Tons of detail painting too.
  12. There are a couple of classic muscle car dealerships in Tennessee I’ve been watching. They have some very nice cars come through there for sale, at prices more reasonable than I suspected they would be. I would much rather have one of those rather than a new Kia or something like that.
  13. The photo etch flex fan kit from Detail Master adds a greater level of realism.
  14. Now that I've thought about it for a bit, I think I shall continue as it is and simultaneously look for a replacement hood. I can paint up the replacement when/if I find one.
  15. It looks so much larger than the actual dimensions.
  16. Earlier in this thread, I mentioned the hood is slightly warped and does not cleanly match/lay down in the closed position. Now that I've laid down the color coats, I've realized another issue I did not notice before now. On close inspection in preparation for clear coats, on top of the hood appears ghosting of the structural reinforcement on the inside of the hood. It's difficult to pick up the detail in a photograph, but it can be clearly seen with the naked eye. In order to fix this, I need to strip all the paint off the hood and do some body work to hide the ghosting. Since the hood is slightly warped, I'm inclined to seek out another, replacement hood. Either way I go, it's going to delay my progress, but it seems to me I would be better off with a replacement (if I can find one). Either way, it will cause a delay.
  17. Thanks Gary. There are different schools of thought on whether or not to clear coat over decals. Some top competition modelers say they never clear coat over their decals. They achieve their finish first, then apply decals last with nothing on top. My own personal experience with clear coat over decals has been a mixed bag. At times it came out great, other times disaster. The main thing that can be said in favor of no clear over decals is the fact that decals can be removed and replaced later on without spoiling the entire paint job whereas clear over the decals means stripping the entire model back down to bare plastic if the decals are under a clear coat.
  18. Instead of compound in this step, decided to do one more wet sanding with all the grades of micromesh polishing cloths to remove any tiny traces of dust, then another liberal coat of clear lacquer. Next, THIS coat of lacquer will get polished with finishing compound followed by a protective wax.
  19. The next steps involve polishing and clear coat application. I went over the entire painted model, wet sanding using sequentially, 3200, 4000, 6000, 8000, then 12000 micro mesh polishing cloths over the red metallic paint. Once it was dry, then sprayed on my clear lacquer, Mr Color Super Clear II. There are a few specks of dust in my clear, which I will polish out with compound in later steps.
  20. What are the dimensions you need for the display?
  21. That pretty pink primer again... Followed by red metallic, Mr Color lacquer variety...
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