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CDW

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Everything posted by CDW

  1. With this model, there is a rather complicated and fiddly geared, spring tensioned mechanism that raises and lowers the rear spoiler. You push it down where it locks into the lowered position, then push on the tag plate to allow it to spring back up to the raised position. In retrospect, I should have left out the internal spring mechanisms and just left it in the lowered position. It's a little over-the-top in my opinion, an unwanted detail,
  2. Either gear up or down is okay with me, I just thought the added issues with wheel wells might be a lot for a 1st kit. I'll follow your lead whichever that is.
  3. I love the paint, shading, and weathering effects you have applied here, Dan. They look splendid.
  4. The tires have an inside and outside tread pattern that can be seen in the photo. The way the tire is oriented with the wheel is how they are shown in the photo. The tires and wheels are designed so there will never be a flat spot that develops over time. A tight, solid fit. The finished model is fairly heavy, having a full metal chassis pan.
  5. Thank you, Rob. All the great fit and precision can be attributed to the Tamiya tradition of engineering excellence. By going directly to a vendor in Japan or through Amazon, this kit can be purchased in the USA for less than $300, with shipping included. Through the hobby shops in the States, the prices are well over $500. In my opinion, they are a great value considering the quality of the item. I still think a MFH kit can turn out much more realistic in many ways, straight from the box, but the demand on the modeler's skill is exponentially greater with a MFH kit. Tamiya simplifies it with their precision engineering.
  6. I had to give her a pose from the driver's side with the tires and wheels loosely fitted to this one side. Tamiya thought of all the details with this model, even the tires are directional. I'll try to take detailed photos of all this and more when I finish the model. Still some more hours need to be spent before calling it done. The devil is always in the details.
  7. A used 2005 Porsche Carrera GT sells for north of $1,600,000 dollars. Somewhere, I read that the 2010 Carrera GT this car is modeled to represent was twice that price. It's hard to conceive there are people paying that much for a car, but some do. Not many, and a model is as close as I will ever get to owning one.
  8. It comes as a result of 8000 and 12000 wet sanding/polishing of the clear coat, followed by a Dremel with a soft wool buffing wheel. Like these sold on Amazon: FPPO 1Inch Polishing Buffing Wheel Set,Wool Felt Cotton Mounted 3mm Shank for Rotary Tool Accessories,Mini Brush Polishing Kit for Watch and Jewelry 50 Pieces - Amazon.com
  9. The doors close in near perfect alignment and stay in place with the help of magnets cleverly hidden from view.
  10. Coming in April from Model factory Hiro. Taking pre-orders now. Matra - LeMans 1973
  11. I love it. Did you see the Matra MFH is coming out with in April?
  12. The windshield got some overspray on it. As a result, I used 8000 and 12000 grit micro mesh followed by Tamiya finishing compound then wax. All that was buffed out with my rotary tool.
  13. Thanks for the kind words and for hitting the like button. Yellow is one of the more challenging colors to apply, and this difficulty only increases with a large model like this one. The difficulty comes in achieving the same shade of color throughout the entire model.
  14. I’m not quite there yet but inching closer to a finish. Another dry fit to check for any fit issues. The roof tops won’t be displayed in a closed position as seen here. Instead will leave open for an unobstructed interior view.
  15. Rob, I don't know if this will help you at this stage of your build, but maybe take a look at how this modeler approached the fit of the 1:12 MFH Cobra Coupe body to the frame and how he dealt with the hinged hood portion. The particular area that looked interesting to me is found between 43:00 and 50:00 minutes of the video.
  16. I agree 100% about the lacquer clear coats. Much more forgiving and user-friendly.
  17. I have more to say, more to report about this paintjob, this 2k clear coat stuff. 2k clear coat paint is a relatively new concept to me, although it's actually been around for a long time. I just never used it much until this big 1:12 scale model. I used it successfully on some smaller scale models a couple of times with little to no issues except for dealing with the horrible fumes of the stuff. This time, I got trash in my paint (my fault, not the paint) which spoiled the finish. If this was just going to be a shelf model, I might have left well-enough alone and never tried to polish out the trash. Polishing out trash particles is not an uncommon thing to happen and is easily dealt with lacquers or enamels, but this 2k stuff is a different animal. I start with 3200 grit polishing cloth, then follow up with 4000, 6000, 8000, and last 12000. If needed, compounds come next. This works fine with lacquer, to a slightly lesser degree works with enamel. With 2k, it sucks. You just cannot get that shine back once you start trying to polish it out. Moral of the story: 2k requires near perfection when it goes down. After having polished out the trash, I am going to be forced to recoat everything I polished with another coat of 2k clear. With lacquer, this would not be a big deal, with 2k it's a royal pain in the rear. Be forewarned.
  18. No, I have only started one (a brand I do not recall) and it was a disaster. I will look it up and try a WAK skill 2 kit as a first try. Thanks!
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