CDW

This build is like a rollercoaster ride sometimes. After checking my building sequence again (very important), I decided, it´s time to add the doors, which means, I have to deal with the side windows, a task, I really feared and I was right to do so.

This is, how it should be done. After drilling all the holes for the rivets with a 0,7 mm drill bit, you cut all the window panes and fairings for the sliding window from a luckily pre printed clear acetate sheet. This proved to be not so easy, it was hard, to have all the strips look equal. I tried first to use my DSPIAE profile cutter, where the blade bet slightly with the long cuts and rendered the parts unusable. I moved on to use a steel ruler and a new scalpel blade then.
But how to glue everything together and align the parts perfectly, for fitting in the rivets.



I decided to improvise a bit. I skipped the spacers (CS5) and used 1mm wide double sided clear adhesive tape instead. To reach the sufficient thickness, I had to apply two strips onto each other. These strips with the CS4 parts were then glued onto the window pane, trying to fit the pre drilled holes. With the second strip in place, I re-drilled the holes again, now with a 0,6 mm drill bit through the adhesive tape and then inserted the rivets. Luckily the residues of adhesive tape in the holes fixed the rivets.
Unfortunately, cutting and assembling must be made on a relatively hard surface and that lead to scratches. The result looks horrible, but I think, I have to live with that, re doing the strips would result in more scratches on the window panes and I don´t have spare acetate.
The only upside, the windows actually slide .



Cheers Rob

I´m not very experienced, when it comes to finishing car bodies and for a while, I debated with myself about leaving the clearcoat as it is. It looked very good and had a high sheen, but it was not perfect.
Out with the sandpaper and polishing compounds. I started to wet sand the whole body with 4000 grit sandpaper, which made the surface nice and even, but also dull.



Of course, I tested my approach first on a lower body part, than on the roof, using 6000 grit sandpaper next, followed by 8000 grit. Then I rubbed in the Tamiya polishing compounds from coarse to finish and added some Tamiya polishing wax last.
Yep, looks good, not the slightest orange peel effect left and a high shine polish. When ready, I will take some outside pics in the sunlight, which show the effect better.



Cheers Rob

I assembled some more sub assemblies, before mounting the body onto the chassis. Foremost, I finished the dashboard. The dashboard got painted with Tamiya LP-5 semi gloss black and the instruments got decals into their tubs and a pre cut round clear acetate cover, which I glued in with Revell Contacta Clear and had no fogging issues. The instruments received tiny pieces of yellow Kabuki for identification.



...and where built into the dashboard later, accompanied with some toggle switches and rivets.



Cheers Rob

Have you seen a fellow by the name of Stewart post his MFH builds on Facebook? It is amazing to me the quality of his work and the speed at which he works to finish his models. If you are inclined to do so, I highly recommend joining the "Model Factory Hiro Builds" group on FB. There is so much to learn there and so many great MFH builds to be seen. A place where you can meet and ask questions when needed.

Have you seen a fellow by the name of Stewart post his MFH builds on Facebook? It is amazing to me the quality of his work and the speed at which he works to finish his models. If you are inclined to do so, I highly recommend joining the "Model Factory Hiro Builds" group on FB. There is so much to learn there and so many great MFH builds to be seen. A place where you can meet and ask questions when needed.

Have you seen a fellow by the name of Stewart post his MFH builds on Facebook? It is amazing to me the quality of his work and the speed at which he works to finish his models. If you are inclined to do so, I highly recommend joining the "Model Factory Hiro Builds" group on FB. There is so much to learn there and so many great MFH builds to be seen. A place where you can meet and ask questions when needed.

Have you seen a fellow by the name of Stewart post his MFH builds on Facebook? It is amazing to me the quality of his work and the speed at which he works to finish his models. If you are inclined to do so, I highly recommend joining the "Model Factory Hiro Builds" group on FB. There is so much to learn there and so many great MFH builds to be seen. A place where you can meet and ask questions when needed.

Have you seen a fellow by the name of Stewart post his MFH builds on Facebook? It is amazing to me the quality of his work and the speed at which he works to finish his models. If you are inclined to do so, I highly recommend joining the "Model Factory Hiro Builds" group on FB. There is so much to learn there and so many great MFH builds to be seen. A place where you can meet and ask questions when needed.

There is indeed a lot of components crammed into the engine area and everywhere else as well. Handling the kit and test fitting becomes more and more difficult because of that. I will stay with my poco a poco (little by little) approach and prepare more sub assemblies and try to not build myself into a corner. 
Sometimes, I think, I should have chosen an easier MFH kit as my first car kit from them. I assume, their F1 cars are a bit easier to build up, there are no doors, no openable hatches and bonnets, but now it is to late to complain .

Cheers Rob

Great looking engine compartment, Rob. Very realistic in this scale.

Great looking engine compartment, Rob. Very realistic in this scale.

Great looking engine compartment, Rob. Very realistic in this scale.

Great looking engine compartment, Rob. Very realistic in this scale.

I used the curing time of the body parts to prepare the firewall. I installed all the components except for some electrical wiring and tubing and test fitted the whole thing into the body as well as onto the chassis. I hope, joining everything together later will work out. It becomes harder and harder to test fit and every test results in color abrasion or in knocking off some parts.







Cheers Rob

The fairings around the head rests are what I’m missing, waiting for Tamiya to provide.

The fairings around the head rests are what I’m missing, waiting for Tamiya to provide.

The fairings around the head rests are what I’m missing, waiting for Tamiya to provide.

The fairings around the head rests are what I’m missing, waiting for Tamiya to provide.

The fairings around the head rests are what I’m missing, waiting for Tamiya to provide.

The fairings around the head rests are what I’m missing, waiting for Tamiya to provide.

That does look nice Craig.
 
OC.

The fairings around the head rests are what I’m missing, waiting for Tamiya to provide.

Thanks Yves. I am very pleased with the yellow paint and it’s the first time I have tried this particular brand. Scale Finishes. It’s the first time for me when yellow covered so well without many coats. Scale Finishes uses DuPont Xalta enamel in their line of paint colors. Pick any car make and year model and they can color match every color used. In theory, this yellow is an exact match for the 2010 Porsche Carrera GT in Signal Yellow.

The fairings around the head rests are what I’m missing, waiting for Tamiya to provide.

The fairings around the head rests are what I’m missing, waiting for Tamiya to provide.